Bracelet Removal, Touch-up, Replacement..

[Tools]

A lot of members seem to be interested in taking off their bracelet...and others about touching up the bracelet..

So, I thought I would combine the two.

Some of my watches get pretty beat up...especially if I'm out in the rocks or engaged in an active pastime...or, just over time..

Let's begin.. First, you need a place that has some room and is comfortable...this shouldn't be done on a couch in front of the tube... you could lose some parts..
197700

The basic tool is a spring-bar tool such as the Bergeon 6111. Here it is at the bottom along with another standard spring-bar tool. You can see that the 6111 has narrow forks. These narrow forks are needed to fit in the narrow slot of the Rolex Bracelet:
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Close-up
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The first step is to remove the spring-bar from the clasp. Using the pin-punch end of the spring bar tool this is easily accomplished. A toothpick can also be used:
197704
Here you can see how the spring-bar tool is inserted into the slot to capture the flange and pressing inward, compress the spring bar:
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I recommend this "pinch technique" where the end-link is held between the thumb and forefinger while exerting some outward pressure to keep the spring-bar pivot from slipping back into the hole:
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Once apart, we can see that we have the two spring-bars, the one for the clasp, and two bracelet halves. The outside half gets most of the abuse as is readily noticed:
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We will use a green Scotch Brite pad for the touch up and to re-align the grain. About 20 strokes along the length while holding one end, then another 2o after rotating the bracelet and holding the other end. This helps ensure some uniformity and complete coverage:
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Once we have it touched up to our satisfaction, the watch can be reassembled and given a warm soapy wash.. then it's ready for the box until called upon again:
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.... Bracelet Installation Procedures......

Some have asked for tips on installing the bracelet back onto the watch head. I am using a different watch here. This watch has through lug holes and no slot in the end-link for a tool to fit. The procedure is the same for either style.

First, another tool is needed. I will use a case-back knife, but any flat blade will do the job..even a popsicle stick:
197711

You may choose to tape the lugs to avoid scratches. Here I am using masking tape, but any durable tape will do, although I do not recommend "Scotch" tape as it easily shreds:
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Install the spring-bar into the end-link and lay the link with the ends of the spring resting on the back of the lugs:
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I recommend the same pinch procedure used for the removal here, but for photography, I show pressing down on the end-link and using the flat blade of the tool to compress the spring-bar end until it can be pushed between the lugs:
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Once both ends are between the lugs, you can maneuver the end-link around a bit until you hear both pivots snap into the holes. ON through hole lugs, you can verify visually to ensure the pivot is visible in the hole:
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If you choose not to tape, or did get an accidental scratch on the back of the lug, it is easily taken care of:
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This is one of the best uses of the nylon fiber pens that are available at most watch part/tool Vendors:
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Once you have these minor touch-ups done, your watch is ready for many more months of use before it's necessary again..

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[clubsta]

Great Job, looks fantastic!

[kyle L]

Really great job Larry. Would you have any tips on the caseback?

[Tools]

Really great job Larry. Would you have any tips on the caseback?

Yes... Lay the case back flat on a flat surface with some 120 grit paper... slide it across the flat surface with the already established grain..

Someplace I have an article about removing an engraving from the back that shows the technique (probably in the Amateur Watchmaker Corner)...:cheers:

[swissautopro]

Another great thread, Larry!:thumbsup:
:cheers:

[CPTL]

Shocking that it's that easy. Great work, and great thread. Now I can remove the bubble wrap from my wrist.

[Speed]

Larry,

Great tutorial as always.

I know this was prompted by recent inquiries...I PROMISE to refer folks to this link going forward on any bracelet questions I may see on TRF.

Much appreciated.

[TSW]

Great job Larry!!

[Tools]

Larry,

Great tutorial as always.

I know this was prompted by recent inquiries...I PROMISE to refer folks to this link going forward on any bracelet questions I may see on TRF.

Much appreciated.

No hidden agenda..

Sometimes I rely on you guys (and the new guys) to provide the inspiration for a timely article, or the resurrection of an old one...:cheers:

[karmatp]

Another great tutorial Larry, you rule. :thumbsup:

[subgmt]

Yes... Lay the case back flat on a flat surface with some 120 grit paper... slide it across the flat surface with the already established grain..

Someplace I have an article about removing an engraving from the back that shows the technique (probably in the Amateur Watchmaker Corner)...:cheers:

Hi Larry,

Great article. The back case cover has a glossy rim and sometimes it is difficult to polish without protecting the glossy rim. Sometimes deeper scratch happens at the edge rim of the case back near the polished rim. so it is difficult but any way thanks for the good tutorial on polishing bracelets. It always help.

Ace.

[JBat]

Great tutorial, Larry. I've been wanting to do this very thing. Once I get the right Bergeon tool I'll give it a go. :thumbsup:

[walds11]

Larry, great tutorial.

A little OT...The spring bars on my Sub 16610 Y serial appear different. It's hard to explain, but they don't have the notches on the ends like your's. Maybe due to the fact that I have a no holes case and they require a different type of spring bar?

[onkyo]

Thank you Larry for these very informative tutorials.....

It will make watchmakers out of us all. :thumbsup:

[Tools]

Larry, great tutorial.

A little OT...The spring bars on my Sub 16610 Y serial appear different. It's hard to explain, but they don't have the notches on the ends like your's. Maybe due to the fact that I have a no holes case and they require a different type of spring bar?

Any no holes case should have these same spring bars. Some may not have the flanges on them, but they should be double shouldered..

A Sub, or many pre 2001 cases may have "through hole lugs" cases (I believe this is what you meant). These have springbars that only have a single pivot at each end. (no shoulders). Thisetype of springbars is removed by using the shown "pin punch" end of the tool and, using the same holding technique, the spring-bars are compressed by pushing through the lug holes. The bracelet also may not have the slot in the back either since it is not necessary .........:cheers:

Here are the three type of spring bars you will encounter. Through hole case, no hole case 2mm, and no hole case 1.8mm:
http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/WatchWorkshop/14060M%20to%20SEL/IMG_2112.jpg

[ParisDakarBmw]

This is a great thread to send these question to. Many people have an interest in maintaining their watches, and learning. We don't see too many before, and after pics. This makes me wonder if people were trying to do it, and jacked it up. I'd hate to think about people screwing up their watches because they mis understood. This thread says everything with good pics. Thanks!:thumbsup:

[tandrup]

Larry - thanks for sharing. Great overview.

[R1@160@alltimes]

Thanks for putting this step by step pictorial together - it sure answered some questions that I had.

[JJ Irani]

Thanks Larry. I don't think my spring bars have the flanges on them. They are probably the first one pictured.

Those are designed for cases that have lug-holes through the lugs.

JJ

[robsteve]

A lot of members seem to be interested in taking off their bracelet...and others about touching up the bracelet..


http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/WatchWorkshop/Bracelet%20Touch-up/PinTool.jpg



I noticed that quite a few of the bracelet pictures I see show wear on the shiny ends of the links. What causes this. The Oyster bracelet on my 20 year old 15010 only shows theses marks on the last links that rub the clasp. This is a watch I have worn almost daily for twenty years and shows lots of marks on the case and bezel, but the polished sides of the strap still look good, with only minor scratches.

Robert

[walds11]

Thanks JJ. I have a SS Sub Date Y serial with lug holes. Everything checks out :thumbsup:

Those are designed for cases that have lug-holes through the lugs.

JJ

[Skullring]

Thanks Larry. Great post as always.:thumbsup:

[Tools]

I noticed that quite a few of the bracelet pictures I see show wear on the shiny ends of the links. What causes this. The Oyster bracelet on my 20 year old 15010 only shows theses marks on the last links that rub the clasp. This is a watch I have worn almost daily for twenty years and shows lots of marks on the case and bezel, but the polished sides of the strap still look good, with only minor scratches.

Robert

Most of what you see on the sides are fingerprints and body oils. When finished with wearing the watch, or your touch-up, they are easily washed and wiped away......:cheers:

[Tools]

..I've added bracelet installation tips to the initial post..:thumbsup:

[dkpw]

Thanks Larry for a very clear and helpful set of instructions.

The nylon fibre pen is new to me, can you explain a little more about it. Should it just be used on brushed metal work? How do you use it?

Cheers!

[robsteve]

Most of what you see on the sides are fingerprints and body oils. When finished with wearing the watch, or your touch-up, they are easily washed and wiped away......:cheers:

I was thinking it may be from wearing other jewelry on the same wrist as the watch. I have seen people wearing a nice Rolex and then a large gold chain on the same wrist.

Robert

[rfknauss]

Larry, thanks for the great step by step instructions!
:cheers:

[louie]

you are AWESOME! i was just curious how to take out or put the bracelet back on to the case when i see no slot for the fork,and the "cover" seems not flipable cos i tired to peel it open :dummy: Larry,your detail tutorial and photos just answer them all! Thanks man!! :thumbsup: :cheers:

[Willi]

Larry,

Very informative. You've done a super job illustrating everything, thanks for everything.

[David Woo]

Very nice photos, thanks Larry!
DW

[DSJ]

Another nice DIY!

[1000ftSub]

Great post Larry! Thank you.:thumbsup::cheers:

[sea-dweller]

Great tips !

[doublesharp]

Thanks for taking the time to post this diy guide.

[superb]

Thanks Larry. This is something i would love to do it myself and you provided the instructions. How cool is that?

[bewithabob]

This is wonderful and informative. Thank you Larry, for sharing the insight and the photos. I suppose the one step I would also want to do, would be to put the bracelet go through the 'Fifth Element Autowash' while it is off the case. Everything I read here recommends a good sonic cleaning for the metal bracelets, but never when attached to the case. So I need to get busy and get the tools mentioned; can someone give me PM about the best place to purchase the apprpriate spring bar tool and the nylon fiber pen?
Now I can't wait to try this.

[ardew]

nice write up.
thanks.

[HunterST]

Larry,

Thanks for sharing. Always a great resource here on TRF.

[Numismatist]

Thanks, this helped me take the bracelet off my SD, but the Bergeon 6111 does not fit my DJ...any idea which Bergeon fits the DJ best?

[Billmanweh]

I was about to order a 6111 and I thought I get a pin punch at the same time to remove the clasp. Anyone know the correct size?

[sss]

Nice tutorial!

[Rodentman]

I got a 6767F from RHD and it has the proper size fork and pin end for my DJ.

[alxforschnr]

Can you recommend a good set of tools for this type of maintenance?

[SteveArn]

Thanks Larry.

This would be a great addition to keep in the Reference Library. :cheers:

[wellonsrs]

Thanks a lot. Very useful!

[sond86]

Outstanding!

[AMoceri7]

nice, I need to do that

[ajm2000and3]

Very helpful and informative! :cheers:

[cr6man]

Very nice tutorial.....Thank you for that one....just found out how to do it!

[SteelerFan65]

Great post Larry--Thanks!!
Merry Christmas!!

[thesmallwave]

Larry, thanks you have done a great job with those pics.Great.Cheers and Merry Christmas

[bemik]

Great info. Thanks!!

[Medtech]

Larry,

Any tips/tricks for adjusting the folded end links so they don't rattle around??

Thanks,

Medtech

[watchnut.com]

Great post Larry.

Have you ever tried the Bergeon #5444 polishing block in place of the Scotch-Brite pad?

I've found it presents a finish closer to the original Rolex brushed finish.

[mjclark32]

Great post. Thank you Larry

[threemonkeys]

Over a year since you posted this and it's still helping people. I'm putting on a Nato tomorrow (first time), so I found this very useful.

Thank you.

[GeoGio Greece]

I do this since a life time !

But I always enjoy the pictures.......perfect !!

Thanks :cheers:

( The "poison marked" bottle / can / jar on the far right, I suppose, is for the wife or anybody else if they bother you while you work !! )

[ec51]

I was eager to try out my new Bergeon 6767 and remove my Sub ND's bracelet...then I sat there trying to figure how to put it back!

Thank you Larry - this write-up was exactly what I needed...!

[SteKos]

Wow, I just found this. Great job on the details, Larry.

And it's great to see an Exp II getting the use it deserves.

[kareemthedream33]

Awesome job. This should be a permanent thread.

[SoftwareDrone]

I'm definitely going to do this as soon as I can figure out how to get around the fact that I have shiny gold non-brushed pieces in the center of each of my links (two tone blue submariner/oyster).

Thank you!
:cheers:

[dddrees]

Great post Larry, thanks for the information.