The Amateur Watchmakers Corner

[Tools]

This small corner I have reserved for some interesting "how-to" or other minor articals and "Larry's Tips" about our time-pieces.

If you have an interesting, original, piece to include, pm me as it is locked so members don't have to weed through many posts to get their tips.

If you have a contribution to "Larry's Tips", pm me too and I will put it into proper format and give you a contribution credit.

POST INDEX:
2. Let's Take Out A Link
3. Larry's Tip #1 - Bracelet Scratch Touch-Up.
4. YM...Platinum or Not
5. Larry's Tip #2 - Links..Hollow or Solid, Can You Tell
6. A Daytona Clasp On A Yachtmaster (By Jocke)
7. Co-axial...A Short Primer.
8. Larry's Tip #3 - Clasp adjustment... Friction and Flip Lock snap
9. Larry's Tip #4 - Sapphire Crystal been replaced ? ...How to tell
10. The Full Balance Bridge...A Rolex Signature.

[Tools]

It seems like more and more, folks need to take a link or two out of their Rolex bracelet..... So, let's do it....

I'll use my 4 year old Explorer II for this, but any Rolex is about the same.

First we need to gather up a few tools...
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link1.jpg

I think we have too many....Probably only a decent screwdriver and a toothpick for this job.

First lets take the bracelet out of the clasp and make it easier to work with:
We can use either a punch, like the one pictured, or a toothpick. I'll use the toothpick and push the pin out of the hole where the yellow one is pointing:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link2.jpg

With the pin pushed, we can lean the bracelet pin end to the outside of the clasp and, holding our finger over it so it won't fly across the room, pull it clear of the clasp and out of the bracelet tube:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link3.jpg

With the bracelet where we can work on it easily, we need to choose the right screwdriver. Here we have a 1.2mm, 1.4mm and a 1.6mm blade precision screwdriver selection.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link4.jpg

It's pretty clear that the 1.2 is too small, but the 1.4 might do in a pinch, however, the 1.6 is perfect and has a more sturdy handle. For this a sturdy, properly fitting tool, is a safeguard against slipping or damage:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link5.jpg

It is not difficult to unscrew the pins. ensure you are holding everything square. Hold the bracelet firmly in one hand and slowly turn the screwdriver and the pin should unscrew nicely. If you are careful and take your time you should not have to force anything:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link6.jpg

With the pin out you can see the loctite used on the threaded end and also some residue in the threaded hole:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link7.jpg

Keep in mind that this is not a blind hole, so any residue inside that is disturbed may push through and is unlikely to impact the screws ability to seat properly. Personally I don't think you need to do anything, but if you choose to use loctite on the threads, use the proper watchmakers type (Loctite 221), and clean both male and female threads thoroughly:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link8.jpg

Repeat this for as many Links as you need to remove and reverse the procedure to re-install the pins. They should screw back in easily, without force, and when you are done there should not be any tell-tale marks:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link9.jpg

To re-install the clasp pin, insert it in the tube and lay it with the bottom end in the desired hole. this gives you a protruding pin against the clasp that can be pressed down with the screwdriver or any stiff non-metallic blade if scratches are a concern. Once you have the pin compressed and inside the clasp, you can slide it around a bit to seat it in the proper hole:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link10.jpg

And, we're ready to give the watch a wash and rubdown with a good lint-free cloth and nobody will ever know about it's recent operation:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Link11pg.jpg

[Tools]

Frequently we get a few unsightly scratches on the bracelet of our brushed finish Rolex watch. This is one of mine after a few years of active wearing. You can see that it gets some light scratches and scrapes.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Bracelet1.jpg

Let's take care of them. First, some tools:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Bracelet2-1.jpg

Probably only the toothpick and the green 3M Scothbrite pad will be used. Take the toothpick and press in on the pin in the clasp holding the bracelet together. Take out the pin and lay the bracelet flat.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Bracelet3.jpg

Working along the length of the bracelet with no more than light finger pressure, give the bracelet 4 or 5 long strokes.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Bracelet4.jpg

This is how it should look:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Bracelet5.jpg

You are now ready to do a few more minor touch-ups if necessary or to put the bracelet back together. Keep in mind, you are re-aligning the structure of the metal and with that some is removed, although very slighty with the 3M Pad.

If you have deep scratches or gouges, I would recommend that you leave those for when you get your watch serviced.

Do NOT do this with POLISHED LINKS unless you want them to have a brushed finish: :banghead:

[Tools]

There's always some discussion on if parts on the Yachtmaster are Platinum...or just plated.

With Jocke's help....Let's find out:

Photography by Jocke

First, we're going to need some tools.

A knife and some tape should do it: oh.....and a Yachtmaster (I don't have one...let's use Jockes).
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz1.jpg

Let's tape up the watch case to help prevent scratches and choose a suitable blade for the job:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz3.jpg

Carefully working around the perimeter of the case:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz4.jpg

Until it pops off. Careful of that click spring....we'll need it after we're done::
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz5.jpg

Taking a close look at the Bezel, we can see it is in two parts with the insert on the left and the bezel to the right, Rolex informs Jocke that it can only be separated at the RSC during refurbishment, so no insert changes for this baby:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz10.jpg

Checking the backside of the bezel we do not find any halmarks, so this piece is unclear; is it platinum, or not ? Rolex says that both pieces are machined from solid platinum...
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz11.jpg

Let's do a weight check: Hmmm...10 grams
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz17.jpg
Compared to the Sub bezel at 4 grams....without doing the math and conversion, I would say the YM is heavier Platinum:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymbz18.jpg

Well, we've gone this far...What say we go all the way.....OK !
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymdo3.jpg

Let's first pull the wings.....I mean hands of this beauty:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymdo4.jpg

Hmm...No halmarks on the hands either...but, we would expect these to be the same white gold as found in other models:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymdo5.jpg

So, let's pull off the dial too.
This thing looks as good naked as it does fully dressed:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymdo6.jpg

The backside of our dial says Rolex 2, and is stamped with the Platinum halmark PT950:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/ymdo8.jpg

So we have some facts and some clues..

It's safe to say that the bezel weighs 3 times that of the Sub, so is likely Platinum, and the halmark on the backside of the dial doesn't leave any room for argument....Solid Platinum..

[Tools]

The latest Rolex bracelets are a step up from the earlier offerings.

Clasps have been updated to machined pieces that give the appearance of greater strength and modern billet.

And the links........

The latest have solid links with holes for the connecting pins to go into rather than the folded and hollow links of their predecessors.

But can you tell ?? Of course you can....... It's easiest if you fold your bracelet with one link at 90 degrees to the other.. When you do, the solid or hollow link is very apparent.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/Solid-Hollow2.jpg

So..Are yours hollow, or solid ??

[Tools]

Many members ask about up-grading their early Oyster clasp to the more modern looking, and functioning, Daytona clasp.

The mechanics are quite simple as the Oyster bracelet is consistent in it's construction.

With the permission of Jocke, I have edited slightly, but present his tutorial on this change..

Photography by Jocke

The first step, and possibly the most difficult, is actually procuring a Daytona clasp.
As you can see, the parts are the clasp and the easy-extension that allows about a half link breathing room when engaged:
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl1.jpg

Here you can see the end of the clasp where the bracelet attaches. It is sort of a "stub link" that allows the last link in the bracelet to be easily screwed into position:
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl5.jpg

Inside the clasp we can see the extra spring-bar that the easy link hooks over in the non-extended position:
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl8.jpg

Looking inside both clasps, we can see the extra bar, and we can see the 3 micro-adjustment holes hidden inside the Daytona clasp for even more flexibility. The Oyster lock clasp is simpler in design and shows a single link still in it's original position. The last link was simply unscrewed from the bracelet:
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl9.jpg

With the original bracelet re-attached to the clasp at the "stub link", and the easy link attached to the other side of the bracelet then pinned in place using the original spring-bar, here is the final result:
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl14.jpg
http://www.vikbobil.se/ymcl15.jpg

This makes an amazing change to the feel of securing the clasp, not to mention a great look.

This can be done for practically any Oyster bracelet. If done to a 93150 Sub bracelet you will lose the divers extention and will have to take out extra links from the extention side. You will also have to brush the finish off the center links for that classic brushed look, but I believe the effort will be well worth it..

................:cheers:

Jockes complete tutorial can be seen here: http://www.wwrforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=97

[Tools]

There has been a lot of talk about the latest Omega Co-axial movements..

So here is the question .. Will Rolex follow suit ?

First I suppose we ought to look at the Co-axial design and see if it's really what it's cracked up to be.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Omega/oce5.jpg

The Co-axial escapement is composed of an intermediary wheel A, a double Coaxial wheel B composed of escapement pinion C and escapement wheel D, pallet fork E with 3 ruby pallet-stones F, G,H and a balance roller K carrying a ruby impulse stone J and a ruby impulse pin L. The roller is fitted to the sprung balance.

Now, that's a bunch of stuff to add to what is essentially a decent ETA movement.

Hmmmm, What does it do better......:thinking:

If you look at the pallet fork (E), you will see that it has an axle (pivots) in the middle. The pallet is suspended in the middle of the wheels and rides on these axles whereas the Swiss Escapement Sliding Pallet used in Rolex and most Swiss movements rests on the case and slides back and forth requiring grease under it to move freely. The Co-axial eliminates that need for grease, and so they claim a longer time between Service Calls. However, there are no other significant changes in all the other areas requiring lube and maintenance, perhaps most importantly, the sliding bridle in the mainspring barrel, so is this enough to radically change the Rolex basic movement..

Personally I think not...my prediction:

We will never see a Co-axial in a Rolex movement....

Now, in all fairness, I suppose a comparison isn't valid without something to compare to...

This is what Rolex uses...The Swiss Lever Escapement. Out of the 200 or so escapements, this is probably the one found in the majority of Swiss watches.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Omega/553px-Anker_01.jpg

As you can see, it fits under the Balance Wheel, and, while also pinned in position, it actually slides back and forth as the pallet jewels lock and release the escapement wheel. The crital area is under the pallet "anchor" which must be greased to ensure minimal friction and consistent operation..

Simple, but effective, reliable, and rugged

[Tools]

The Rolex early stamped clasp on the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet are snapped closed by a friction fit.

If your clasp comes open too easily, doesn't snap at all, or your flip lock is the only piece that holds the clasp in place, the fix is simple.

The two stainless steel blades that make up the deployant can be adjusted slightly to have the clasp fit more tightly, or more loos, depending on your preference. Holding the blade closest to the clasp in both hands, press gently in the center with the thumbs while pulling slightly with the fingers on each end will put a tighter curve (bend) in this piece. This will effectively move the end of the other blade away from the locking part of your clasp making it fit tighter.

The Oyster Flip-Lock can be bent at this point:
You will notice that this one has been bent for a better fit.
34807

The Jubilee or the Oyster Lock can be bent here:
34808

[Tools]

We have had a few questions lately about changing the Sapphire crystal, and even some concern about unscrupulous vendors who might exchange a Rolex crystal for a cheaper knock-off.

Since 2001, the Sapphire crystals have had the crown etched at the 6 o'clock position, and this remains true to today with the exception of the green sapphire on the GV Milgauss.

But, how can you tell ??

Well, any genuine Rolex Sapphire Crystal Service Replacement will have an S etched in the circle at the base of the crown..

Here is a Service Replacement Sapphire Crystal fitted to a 1996 GMT Master with early Tritium dial. The original Crystal did not have any etching and an etched "S" Service Sapphire is proper:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/CrownScopy.jpg


:cheers:

[Tools]

So many ask, "Why should I get a Rolex, aren't the movements in watches about the same ?"

The answer is a sound Absolutely Not !!

Rolex has always striven for reliability, durability, consistency, and accuracy, a difficult thing to achieve in a mechanical time-piece. One trademark of Rolex watches during this past decade was to bring all Rolex movements up-to-date with a full balance bridge. This cradles the balance spring, the brains of your watch, in a solid and non-moving position where bumps and changes in the outside environment cannot significantly affect it's 28,000 beats per hour rhythm. This also allows Rolex to use a larger balance wheel than some other manufacturers. More mass means a more consistent amplitude and less deviation due to external forces. It's just one good reason why your Rolex is a cut above most of the competition.. Rolex is willing to invest in that little bit extra for you and me.

Here is how sturdy the Rolex mechanical CPU is anchored:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/BalanceBridgeb.jpg

By comparison, another very robust and well regarded movement is the Lemania (Omega) 1861. This movement was durable and strong enough to be certified by NASA for space walks.

It is one of my favorite and most accurate movements, but it uses a balance cock for support of the balance wheel.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa67/LD_album/Shop/BalanceCock.jpg

Early Rolex cal. 3035 with a balance Cock
(Photo by Jocke)
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/30353.jpg

The improved cal. 3135 with the full bridge..
(Photo by Jocke)
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/curcal2.jpg

:cheers: