What does a service on a Rolex include?

[Vanessa]

Some common questions I hear a lot: "What does a service include?" "Why does it cost so much?" "How long does it take to service a Rolex?"
I'm sorry if the answer is a bit long, but this is what, why and how long:



This is what I do when I service a Rolex….

I open the case and remove the rotor.
I remove the movement from the case. I continue to take off the hands and remove the dial and date disc. The mainspring gets unwound and at this point the movement goes into the cleaner.

I continue with taking the case apart; removing the bezel, and crystal.
I change into a different lab coat, put on gloves and a face mask to start the refinishing of the case and bracelet.
First I buff the case with a hard wheel and a certain compound which makes the case so hot that the wheel starts smoking. I then clean the case in the ultrasonic cleaner and continue with a different polishing wheel that’s softer. I will high-polish the bezel and case back and the bracelet if applicable.
Once the case back is clean in the ultrasonic, I will now high-polish that one as well.
I will change the polishing wheel once more to a soft wheel and again a different compound and give it the finishing super high polish on the parts needed.
While all those finished parts are in the cleaner, I will brush polish the clasp with a hard wheel, followed by a softer brush wheel.
Then I tape off the polished areas on the bracelet to brush-polish the rest of it. When that’s done I change back to the high-polish wheel to polish the side of the bracelet and clasp.
I steam clean all the parts of the case and put them on a dryer. Once the case is dry, I put the final brush polish to the lugs and case back with a special filing technique.


The movement (let’s say a 3135) has finished the pre-cleaning process, and can now be checked and disassembled.
The date parts are first, flowed by the automatic mechanism: I first check the end-shake* on all wheels.
I then take out all (3) screws and put them in the small cleaning baskets. I will check the rotor axle and replace it when necessary. I continue with the disassembling of the movement.
I first check the end-shake on the balance wheel. Then I remove the shock-absorbent jewels. The balance wheel is carefully removed and put aside after I unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the bridge in place. I proceed with the pallet fork. Again I check end-shake and remove 2 screws to take off the bridge and remove the pallet fork. At this point I check the freedom of the train with winding the mainspring just a little bit. Then I check all the gears’ end-shakes and remove the 3 screws that hold the train bridge to remove the escape wheel, second wheel, third wheel and great wheel. I then check every wheel meticulously to check for worn pivots, and replace the one that are not perfect anymore with new ones.
When at any moment the end-shake wasn’t satisfactory I then move the jewels up or down to correct the error and reassemble the wheel to check again until it's perfect.
I proceed with removing the screws on the ratchet wheel and bridge to remove the barrel with the mainspring. Now I can open the barrel and remove the mainspring which goes straight into my garbage can.
I proceed with taking the rest of the watch apart, including the winding mechanism. I put the balance back onto the main plate to prevent the hairspring from getting tangled up while it’s cleaning.
Now the disassembled movement goes into the cleaner again to get its full cleaning. In the mean time I’ll have a coffee, and I will assemble the case with crystal and bezel.

When the movement is clean I put on some finger cots, and start with putting the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel into a special liquid lubricant.
I apply grease on the inside of the barrel wall and put a new mainspring in it. I close the barrel and check the end-shake of the arbor to make sure it’s free.
I continue with taking the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel out of the special lubricant and dry them with hot air from a hairdryer. Now I can take the balance back of the main plate and start putting the watch back together. Again the watch has 6 different lubricants and every lube has a very specific role into making the watch run as perfect as possible. When a grease or oil gets applied too much or too little, or at the wrong location within the watch, the amplitude and timing of the watch won’t be as it should.
Once the watch is assembled (and I’m not going to explain every single step as this is already getting way to long) I put it on my timer to check the beat, amplitude and time. Everything gets adjusted accordingly if necessary and I time the watch in 6 different positions to be within -1 to +4.

Once that’s achieved I assemble the dial and hands (when the date jumps at 12) and put the movement in the case. At this time I do the final timing at full wind and half wind, and adjust if necessary.
Then I assemble the automatic mechanism and check for freedom of the rotor.

Once that’s all up to standard, I close the case with new gaskets and put it on a dry pressure test. When it passes (or not) I proceed with the wet test, and make sure the watch doesn’t leak.
I can then put the bracelet on, set the time equal to my atomic clock and store it in my safe with the crown left, until the next day.
Then I check the time again compared to the atomic clock and note the amount of seconds it’s + or -.
Then I put it on my automatic winder for a day, check again and finally I put it dial up in my safe again to check the next day, and the day thereafter to see when the watch stopped to check the power reserve.
At this time, if everything is within standards I call the customer that his/her watch is ready. If not, I have to find the problem, possibly adjust or start over! This all comes with a 2-year warranty on the work performed.

The tools and materials needed to work on Rolex watches and to keep the account in positive standing are about a $30,000 investment. Plus we have to maintain them and pay rent for the work space. I have gone to a 3-year full-time watchmaking school and undergone many hours of specialized training to do this job.

So now, let’s see… hmmm I guess the four hundred-something dollars I charge might not be enough if I think about it…:thinking:

*end-shake: the free longitudinal movement of arbors or the like between bearings.
That means I have to evaluate the amount of movement of a wheel between the jewels. Some can be 0.01mm others 0.02 up to 0.06mm. This can only be determined by the experienced, and louped watchmaker's eye! :chuckle:

:cheers:
Vanessa

[diablojota]

Thank you for this information. This is good to know as my Rolex is now off to RSC in Dallas for 4-5 weeks.

[cody p]

nice details, thanks!

[walds11]

Vanessa, thanks for sharing.

[Nods]

Thanks Vanessa, very timely and to the point. It saddens me to see that people that are ready to pay 4K USD or more for one of the best mechanical watches on the planet which they should know need maintenance. Then they squirm when they have to pay a highly trained professional around USD$500 to service it every 5 years. Even worse people who have achieved a position in life that can afford to purchase any one of these fine mechanical time pieces decides they don't need maintenance till they stop. To those people I say buy a quarts watch, spend USD$100 or less every two years or so to change the batteries and be happy.

[lakeros]

Great post, amazing how much work goes into just restoring the performance of these machines. Thank you Vanessa!

[goduke1]

Since I just shipped mine off for service, thanks for this info. :thumbsup:

[bodybump]

Vanessa...so how many hours would it take to have a watch ovehauld??

[Vanessa]

Thank you for this information. This is good to know as my Rolex is now off to RSC in Dallas for 4-5 weeks.
You're welcome, I do have to point out that the service at a RSC works a little different since they have a different person performing every step of the way, while I do it all myself. The watch at a RSC doesn't see a watchmaker until the timing process.

Vanessa...so how many hours would it take to have a watch ovehauld??

It really depends on what needs to be done on top of the routine stuff. Meaning if I have to adjust a lot of jewels, change a balance staff, or it just doesn't time out right, it can be anywhere from 5 to 8 hours I guess... And then there are the 5 days of timing on top of that.
I never really do just one watch at a time. I usually service 2 Rolex' of different caliber at once. This can take me about 1 to 2 days + the 5 days.

[bodybump]

Thanks so much vanessa!!!

[ni5l]

Ecellent post, Vanessa. :cheers:

[diablojota]

You're welcome, I do have to point out that the service at a RSC works a little different since they have a different person performing every step of the way, while I do it all myself. The watch at a RSC doesn't see a watchmaker until the timing process.

Really? That's interesting. Thanks for letting me know.

[gregdolley]

Thanks Vanessa, very timely and to the point. It saddens me to see that people that are ready to pay 4K USD or more for one of the best mechanical watches on the planet which they should know need maintenance. Then they squirm when they have to pay a highly trained professional around USD$500 to service it every 5 years. Even worse people who have achieved a position in life that can afford to purchase any one of these fine mechanical time pieces decides they don't need maintenance till they stop. To those people I say buy a quarts watch, spend USD$100 or less every two years or so to change the batteries and be happy.

I totally agree! :thumbsup: First off, the ~$500 service fee once every five years comes out to just $100/year - or about $8 bucks/month. To maintain your Rolex and have it pretty much run forever, I think the $8 bucks per month is worth every penny!

-Greg

[gregdolley]

Oh, and thanks for the very detailed post Vanessa! :thumbsup: It's not too long - I like it. In fact, the more details, the better! :clap:

-Greg

[walds11]

Vanessa, if you weren't so far from me, I would definitely send you my watch to service.

[buz-lh]

Thank you for this wonderful insight into the world of watch service. It really is quite a detailed process and I appreciated you taking your time to explain it.

[chriseskew24]

Very good post . Thanks for all the details. Now i kind of know whats going on when being serviced.

[shaggy]

great post :thumbsup:
i can see why it took so long to repair my sub
the repair is quick in respect to the testing that has to be done

just a couple of questions if i may please Vanessa

your service gives 2 years warranty but am i right in presuming rolex only give 1 year?

do rolex put the mainspring straight into the trashcan?
is it something that is that cheap to replace its just not worth the risk?

are you certified by rolex to do their serviceing or do they like to do it all themselves ie:- can you do warranty work on their behalf?
(im not in any way saying you are not skilled im just curious:agree:)

[louie]

Vanessa,thanks for the great post! wish to see you in person working on a rollie,nvr seen a female tech in my country.(I dun think there's any...)

[fmalloy]

I promise I'll never complain about the cost of a service again.

[louie]

I promise I'll never complain about the cost of a service again.me too...by the way my local RSC charges $320 for an overhual service for a sub. :cheers: What about in the states..?

[JJ Irani]

Great stuff, Vanessa......hell's bells, with that kind of service, you can charge me whatever the hell you like, Vanessa. :rofl::rofl::rofl:

[diablojota]

When I was sending my watch off for service, the AD was telling me that when you break down the cost of the service over the time of 5 years, which would be the regular service interval, it equates to almost the same amount per year as you pay to get the oil changed in your car. So my watch is 5 years old, and he was just about right when I did the math.

[Vanessa]

great post :thumbsup:
i can see why it took so long to repair my sub
the repair is quick in respect to the testing that has to be done

just a couple of questions if i may please Vanessa

your service gives 2 years warranty but am i right in presuming rolex only give 1 year?

do rolex put the mainspring straight into the trashcan?
is it something that is that cheap to replace its just not worth the risk?

are you certified by rolex to do their serviceing or do they like to do it all themselves ie:- can you do warranty work on their behalf?
(im not in any way saying you are not skilled im just curious:agree:)
Yes, Rolex gives one year, I give two... just so we can better service the customer. The warranty is hardly ever used anyways if the work is done right. If I send your watch to RSC for service, I will honor their warranty. If you sent it independently or through another dealer, I do not honor their warranty.

Rolex does replace every mainspring as well.
The reason the mainspring is replaced, is because they did research and noticed that mainsprings that we're being reused after a service, are 30% more likely to break within a few years.

I am trained by Rolex and I'm authorised to work on their watches, that's why I can get the genuine parts.

[farmer's daughter]

Vanessa,
Thanks for posting this info. I spent $350 a couple of years ago--actually 3--to have my watch cleaned and "made whole" again. It was gaining time and nothing I did helped. When I received it back from the watchmaker--reputedly the most esteemed Rolex guy in town--it was worse. I was snowed under with personal responsibilities (my mom died at the time) and am only just now coming out from under that to try to get my watch working properly. It's a sentimental piece: my parents gave it to me as a 21st birthday gift, just a decade shy of 50 years ago! It's a ladies' Oyster Perpetual, no date. I'm no collector, just a sentimental fan of the brand and everyone in the family has one. Can you offer any advice toward getting it right? It gains 30 minutes every hour!! It's useless!

[shaggy]

I am trained by Rolex and I'm authorised to work on their watches, that's why I can get the genuine parts.


so in theory if i lived near the place you work i could send my watch to you for warranty work within the warranty period and you would charge rolex direct?

[Vanessa]

Vanessa,
Thanks for posting this info. I spent $350 a couple of years ago--actually 3--to have my watch cleaned and "made whole" again. It was gaining time and nothing I did helped. When I received it back from the watchmaker--reputedly the most esteemed Rolex guy in town--it was worse. I was snowed under with personal responsibilities (my mom died at the time) and am only just now coming out from under that to try to get my watch working properly. It's a sentimental piece: my parents gave it to me as a 21st birthday gift, just a decade shy of 50 years ago! It's a ladies' Oyster Perpetual, no date. I'm no collector, just a sentimental fan of the brand and everyone in the family has one. Can you offer any advice toward getting it right? It gains 30 minutes every hour!! It's useless!

Thats sound to me like its magnetised! Try to go to a local watchmaker and see if they can check for that and demagnetise it if neccesary. Otherwise I would recommend sending it to RSC.

I'm sorry about your mother.

[Vanessa]

so in theory if i lived near the place you work i could send my watch to you for warranty work within the warranty period and you would charge rolex direct?

I cannot charge Rolex at all. I don't work FOR them, only with them. I would only perform warranty work if the watch is purchased through our company. That's a benefit for purchasing with us.

[JJ Irani]

Hey Vanessa,

Can you translate all of the above into simple English.....please? :chuckle:

Me no understand a word of what you've said!! :dummy: :biggrin:

[Lion]

Vanessa, Thanx for spending the time to explain to us the procedures for servicing a Rolex watch. I knew it was involved and technical but you have given me insight as to why the cost is what it is!!!
Thanx again for sharing!!!

[Vanessa]

Hey Vanessa,

Can you translate all of the above into simple English.....please? :chuckle:

Me no understand a word of what you've said!! :dummy: :biggrin:

Here's the translated version for you JJ:

"give me your money, I'll fix it!":dummy:

Is this more clear to you?:justkiddi:justkiddi:rofl:

[mailman]

Thank you for taking the time to post all of the insightful information Vanessa :cheers:

[akhamdani]

Thanks a lot for all these informations.Very interresting to know.

[shaggy]

great post Vanessa
thank you very much
i now have a better understanding as to why things take so long and the price for servicing does not seem that expensive now

[farmer's daughter]

Thats sound to me like its magnetised! Try to go to a local watchmaker and see if they can check for that and demagnetise it if neccesary. Otherwise I would recommend sending it to RSC.

I'm sorry about your mother.
Thanks, Vanessa--I'm hopeful that you've described the problem and I can get it fixed quickly!

[tthopp05]

Professional.

[Latrodectus]

Great information...I just love it...Thank you very much!

[Boopie]

Thank you for your insightful post.

[JF23]

Thanks Vanessa, really appreciate you taking the time to explain to us what goes on during a service. :thumbsup:

[ob1]

Thanks for a great post Vanessa. I only wish I could send my tudor chrono to you to get serviced!

mark

[wileen]

Thank you for the post Vanessa! It was like reading a romance novel, I fell in love with my Rolex's all over again :)

[onkyo]

Very informative post Vanessa.

Thank you so much for taking your time to post it here. :thumbsup:

:cheers:

[Skullring]

Vanessa Great post. You are a true professional. I used to think that a service was more expensive than it should be but not anymore. Where are you located?

[Atomant]

Vanessa love reading your posts, always looking forward for it. Ima search all your post in this forum! . :cheers:

[Vanessa]

Vanessa love reading your posts, always looking forward for it. Ima search all your post in this forum! . :cheers:

:thumbsup: Just don't read them all please! I've gotten carried away a few times with not-so-watch-related topics!!:chuckle:

[directioneng]

Thank you Vanessa.

[Jazz]

Just wanted to say thank you for an excellent, informative post, Vanessa.

[biggums]

Now I won't feel bad about the cost to service. Lots of work!

Thanks!

[Bisquitlips]

Now I won't feel bad about the cost to service. Lots of work!

Thanks!

X10!!! :thumbsup:

[Parachrom]

I was not aware that RSc does not have a watchmaker touch my Sd until the final timing phase. In effect does that mean I am getting an apprentice working on my SD instead of a watchmaker?

[Marrk]

You're welcome, I do have to point out that the service at a RSC works a little different since they have a different person performing every step of the way, while I do it all myself. The watch at a RSC doesn't see a watchmaker until the timing process.


Like Parachrom, I would be grateful for further clarification of this. :thumbsup: If not a watchmaker, who works on the watch? Trainees? Watch school students (I'm thinking of Pennsylvania here)? Non-watchmaker techs? :thinking:

Thanks. :cheers:

[Paulie]

Like Parachrom, I would be grateful for further clarification of this. :thumbsup: If not a watchmaker, who works on the watch? Trainees? Watch school students (I'm thinking of Pennsylvania here)? Non-watchmaker techs? :thinking:

Thanks. :cheers:

Based on my experience, could be any of the above (with pictures to prove it). :dummy: :rofl: :cheers:

Back to topic, I would expect more complicated movements would take more time; what would be the difference going from a manual precision, Sub no date, with date, GMT, and Daytona? Done a YMII yet? :smokin::smokin::thumbsup::cheers:

[mrtian97]

For Sub with date, stainless steel, how often do they need service if nothing wrong with the watch? every 5 yr?
Thanks

[ym3135]

thanks, i now want to have mine serviced unnecessarily. LOL

[bahamadoug]

Vanessa, what a dynamite writeup. I was getting so into your detail that I am sorry you didn't give more detail. Fascinating profession and quite insightful into the world of small pieces of machinery and parts. Thanks for taking the time to write this. The fee for the overhaul is sure worth it. They don't call you watch doctor without good reason !!!!

[bahamadoug]

Vanessa, can you service a DSSD?

[Vanessa]

Vanessa, can you service a DSSD?

No I cannot, and never will (unless I would go and work at an RSC). The water resistance rating is way beyond my testing machine's capabilities!

[He Man]

Hi Vanessa, my uncle left me his explorer II which is around 10 years old. It has never been service, it keeps great time however, it is all scratched up and ding everywhere. Can it be fixed to look like it is brand new (reasonably). If so, how much would it cost me? Thanks! Great post BTW.

[Vanessa]

Hi Vanessa, my uncle left me his explorer II which is around 10 years old. It has never been service, it keeps great time however, it is all scratched up and ding everywhere. Can it be fixed to look like it is brand new (reasonably). If so, how much would it cost me? Thanks! Great post BTW.

Yes, it can be looking like new again, but not by me...
RSC does phenomenal work on the refinishing of Explorer II's!
You will get an estimate from them first. You can send it in through an AD or you can send it directly.
Good luck.

[MC28REPSOL]

Hey Vanessa,

how much would you charge to service a Sub?

your write up really makes me confident in your work not to mention i just want to have it done after reading your post.

[Brushpup]

Hey Vanessa,

how much would you charge to service a Sub?

your write up really makes me confident in your work not to mention i just want to have it done after reading your post.

She mentioned 400 in her OP........check it out.

[Nick1959]

Eventhough I do not like to pay for the service compared to mechanical things of similar price it is not high cost. Think of your car. If you watch is a dily wear it works more than a car of cab driver. Conmpare the running cost and maintanance.

[iwhelan]

Thanks for the information Vanessa.

[hsung]

Thanks Vanessa for sharing your work :thumbsup:

When I last serviced my Sub at an RSC, it was running very slow (around an hour) for the first day or so. Then, when I wound it, the crown did not turn smoothly. After that, everything seems to go back to normal.

Do you know the reason for these phenomena?

[brkanand]

Thanks Vanessa. You explained so well. When my turn comes up, I am going to pay with a smile.

[Dr.B]

Great post Vanessa.

[tomee]

does rolex keep tabs on services?

like if i bought a 2nd hand rolex, could i chase up with rolex if it has been serviced or not?

[JohnLips]

Thanks Vanessa. Very interesting.

[Rock]

I am always a little 'humbled' when I contemplate the skill and dedication possessed by workers who are rarely recognised for their talent. We put the 'professions' on a pedestal but fail to recognise the people who make the world go round (or in this case , the hands). I hope we don't ever run out of the skilled craftsperson. Hopefully 'supply & demand' will always make it viable for these special people to engage in these areas of work.

[inspires]

Thanks Vanessa - greatly appreciate the detailed post!

[nektarios]

thanks!

[subsea-sub]

very interesting vanessa, thanks for sharing.


cheers
mike

[Vanessa]

You're welcome guys!:thumbsup:

[JohnBoy]

Thanks from a newbie! A real enlightenment for many of us by a qualified professional! More cheers.
John

[Montanan]

OK Van,

You can have my Explorer 2 for a redo.
If you want to...email me the details as to how this can happen.

TIA mia
Mike Barts
montanan@itstriangle.com or 406.390.0099

[LUCAS SILVA]

Vanessa what is the cost of a standard service for a lady ss datejust. THANKS,

LUCAS



Some common questions I hear a lot: "What does a service include?" "Why does it cost so much?" "How long does it take to service a Rolex?"
I'm sorry if the answer is a bit long, but this is what, why and how long:



This is what I do when I service a Rolex….

I open the case and remove the rotor.
I remove the movement from the case. I continue to take off the hands and remove the dial and date disc. The mainspring gets unwound and at this point the movement goes into the cleaner.

I continue with taking the case apart; removing the bezel, and crystal.
I change into a different lab coat, put on gloves and a face mask to start the refinishing of the case and bracelet.
First I buff the case with a hard wheel and a certain compound which makes the case so hot that the wheel starts smoking. I then clean the case in the ultrasonic cleaner and continue with a different polishing wheel that’s softer. I will high-polish the bezel and case back and the bracelet if applicable.
Once the case back is clean in the ultrasonic, I will now high-polish that one as well.
I will change the polishing wheel once more to a soft wheel and again a different compound and give it the finishing super high polish on the parts needed.
While all those finished parts are in the cleaner, I will brush polish the clasp with a hard wheel, followed by a softer brush wheel.
Then I tape off the polished areas on the bracelet to brush-polish the rest of it. When that’s done I change back to the high-polish wheel to polish the side of the bracelet and clasp.
I steam clean all the parts of the case and put them on a dryer. Once the case is dry, I put the final brush polish to the lugs and case back with a special filing technique.


The movement (let’s say a 3135) has finished the pre-cleaning process, and can now be checked and disassembled.
The date parts are first, flowed by the automatic mechanism: I first check the end-shake* on all wheels.
I then take out all (3) screws and put them in the small cleaning baskets. I will check the rotor axle and replace it when necessary. I continue with the disassembling of the movement.
I first check the end-shake on the balance wheel. Then I remove the shock-absorbent jewels. The balance wheel is carefully removed and put aside after I unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the bridge in place. I proceed with the pallet fork. Again I check end-shake and remove 2 screws to take off the bridge and remove the pallet fork. At this point I check the freedom of the train with winding the mainspring just a little bit. Then I check all the gears’ end-shakes and remove the 3 screws that hold the train bridge to remove the escape wheel, second wheel, third wheel and great wheel. I then check every wheel meticulously to check for worn pivots, and replace the one that are not perfect anymore with new ones.
When at any moment the end-shake wasn’t satisfactory I then move the jewels up or down to correct the error and reassemble the wheel to check again until it's perfect.
I proceed with removing the screws on the ratchet wheel and bridge to remove the barrel with the mainspring. Now I can open the barrel and remove the mainspring which goes straight into my garbage can.
I proceed with taking the rest of the watch apart, including the winding mechanism. I put the balance back onto the main plate to prevent the hairspring from getting tangled up while it’s cleaning.
Now the disassembled movement goes into the cleaner again to get its full cleaning. In the mean time I’ll have a coffee, and I will assemble the case with crystal and bezel.

When the movement is clean I put on some finger cots, and start with putting the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel into a special liquid lubricant.
I apply grease on the inside of the barrel wall and put a new mainspring in it. I close the barrel and check the end-shake of the arbor to make sure it’s free.
I continue with taking the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel out of the special lubricant and dry them with hot air from a hairdryer. Now I can take the balance back of the main plate and start putting the watch back together. Again the watch has 6 different lubricants and every lube has a very specific role into making the watch run as perfect as possible. When a grease or oil gets applied too much or too little, or at the wrong location within the watch, the amplitude and timing of the watch won’t be as it should.
Once the watch is assembled (and I’m not going to explain every single step as this is already getting way to long) I put it on my timer to check the beat, amplitude and time. Everything gets adjusted accordingly if necessary and I time the watch in 6 different positions to be within -1 to +4.

Once that’s achieved I assemble the dial and hands (when the date jumps at 12) and put the movement in the case. At this time I do the final timing at full wind and half wind, and adjust if necessary.
Then I assemble the automatic mechanism and check for freedom of the rotor.

Once that’s all up to standard, I close the case with new gaskets and put it on a dry pressure test. When it passes (or not) I proceed with the wet test, and make sure the watch doesn’t leak.
I can then put the bracelet on, set the time equal to my atomic clock and store it in my safe with the crown left, until the next day.
Then I check the time again compared to the atomic clock and note the amount of seconds it’s + or -.
Then I put it on my automatic winder for a day, check again and finally I put it dial up in my safe again to check the next day, and the day thereafter to see when the watch stopped to check the power reserve.
At this time, if everything is within standards I call the customer that his/her watch is ready. If not, I have to find the problem, possibly adjust or start over! This all comes with a 2-year warranty on the work performed.

The tools and materials needed to work on Rolex watches and to keep the account in positive standing are about a $30,000 investment. Plus we have to maintain them and pay rent for the work space. I have gone to a 3-year full-time watchmaking school and undergone many hours of specialized training to do this job.

So now, let’s see… hmmm I guess the four hundred-something dollars I charge might not be enough if I think about it…:thinking:

*end-shake: the free longitudinal movement of arbors or the like between bearings.
That means I have to evaluate the amount of movement of a wheel between the jewels. Some can be 0.01mm others 0.02 up to 0.06mm. This can only be determined by the experienced, and louped watchmaker's eye! :chuckle:

:cheers:
Vanessa

[Perdu]

Very informative. Thanks, Vanesse. I have the utmost respect for good watchmakers.

[RolexPete]

Great post. I assume this is SOP for all competent watchmakers that service Rolex watches?

[Nicko]

Wow, awesome post. Thanks so much for posting that. I was unaware of everything that was done to my watch. Now that you mention it, my 400 plus Euros wasn't enough!

[watchmakeral]

This is a post that I also posted on another thread on the avg cost of a service. First I must say that from what I read Ms. Vanessa knows her craft and does a quality job. Here it is.
Allow me to introduce myself. My name is Alan, I am a watchmaker, and this is my first post on the forum. This thread caught my attention enough for me to want to give it my input as well. I work with Michael (Horologier) at watchrestoration.com. We work under Ernest Tope CMW21. Mr. Tope is one of a handful of watchmakers with the CMW21 (21st Century Certified Master Watchmaker) certification and one of the most highly skilled watchmakers I have ever met. Michael and I are lucky to have the privilege of working with him.
To answer the original posting (remember the original posting), the average price of a Rolex service on a modern Rolex is roughly about $350 give or take a hundred bucks. This is for the average jewelry store and not Rolex or a Rolex dealership and assumes that the watch does not need any parts other than gaskets and a mainspring. I believe Rolex is about $700 and they replace the crown and tube as part of the service. I know of watchmakers who will service a Rolex for as little as $75 but I would never recommend them. I know what it takes to do the job properly. Of course, there are a number of issues that affect the price.
Does the watchmaker use genuine Rolex parts or generic ones? Genuine parts cost more and are restricted. Rolex tries very hard to ensure that they make their parts available only to competent watchmakers. Rolex has sent letters to their parts accounts stating that as of the end of the year only AWCI certified watchmakers with the necessary equipment will be eligible for a Rolex parts account.
This brings us to the next issue. Is the watchmaker competent? Like any other profession, not all watchmakers are equal. If the watchmaker is AWCI certified that certification implies a certain skill level. There are many competent watchmakers who are not certified but there are many more uncertified watchmakers who are mediocre or worse. We spend a lot of our time correcting previous slipshod work. Some attorneys charge $100 an hour and some charge $1000 an hour. If you are negotiating a hundred million dollar transaction which one would you chose?
Many times a watchmaker can get away with shoddy work and the customer may never know. He may leave dings and scratches all over the movement and most customers never see the movement at all let alone inside the movement when it is dismantled. The watch works fine but the dings and scratches have devalued it and the owner never knows until the next person to work on it tells them so.
Another issue is what the criteria is used for replacing a marginal part. As an example, I have seen many watches with corrosion inside due to moisture. Often I see a corroded oscillating weight that will function properly but looks just awful. Depending on the customer’s expectations I either brush the corrosion off or I replace the part. Would you be willing to pay the extra cost to replace it? Watch manufacturers will not give you a choice; they will replace the part and charge accordingly. We here will also replace the part because we want to produce work we can be proud of. When someone else looks at our work we want it to be seen as first rate.
Accuracy is a big factor. Accuracy can be a matter of diminishing returns. Theoretically, the longer I work on timing a watch, the more accurate I can make it. It costs a lot more to get a race car to go from a ten second machine to a 9.5 second machine than it does to take it from 12 seconds to 11 seconds. Some watches have better capabilities than others but the theory still holds. Once a watch has been cleaned and oiled and any mechanical issues have been resolved, the watch is adjusted and tested. Sometimes the watch is adjusted and tested many times before it is released. This often accounts for the long amount of time needed to service the watch. We like to test the watch for at least a week of good timekeeping before we release it. Often we will put the watch in timing and after a few days of unsatisfactory timekeeping make an adjustment and start the timing process again. We will often repeat this process several times before we are satisfied. What level of accuracy do you expect from the $150 job vs. the $600 job?
Overhead is another factor. State of the art equipment has become very expensive and manufacturers are insisting on some very expensive equipment before they will open a parts account. A major store in a major mall pays a very high rent and manufacturers need to pay for their large facilities and for the executive salaries and bonuses. Fortunately we don’t have that situation; the money you spend on your watch goes only to the time we spend on it.
Watchmaking is a difficult profession. It takes a long time to become adept at this profession and like any other profession we deserve to make a decent living. In addition good watchmakers are few in number and the law of supply and demand applies. I don’t know of any watchmakers that are getting rich servicing watches. If anyone knows of one I would love to know their formula for success. Considering the time, effort and cost of being a good watchmaker, we are one of the most underpaid and underappreciated professions I know of.
On estimates there are 2 ways to do it. We can charge for the estimate and stick to the price, or we can give a free estimate and call later when we come across a problem and alter the price accordingly. Many times I have taken my car into a repair shop and was quoted a price only to receive a phone call later telling me that the repairman found a problem he had not accounted for and that the price of the repair would be considerably more. The same goes for contractors repairing homes and other buildings. Cost overruns are common even with new construction.
Since we mostly work on older watches we come across hidden problems often, usually from the folks that worked on it before us. Experience has taught us that completely disassembling the watch and charging for the estimate is the only way to go.
We are on this forum because we love our watches. If you love your watch, why would you be more concerned with the price of the repair than the quality of the repair? The bitterness of a poor repair is remembered long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten.
Long Live The Mechanical Watch!

[Vanessa]

Thanks again guys! :cheers:



Great post. I assume this is SOP for all competent watchmakers that service Rolex watches?

Yes, it should be the norm for all Rolex trained watchmakers around the world.

[JAGERVEGAS]

Wow, what a post..I've had my gmt since 2001, and had it serviced 2 times, right now its getting serviced the 2nd time, they want it for 4 weeks, I was wondering why, now I know. I WISH THEY WOULD GIVE ME A LOANER:dude:

[walds11]

Did you give it to an RSC or and independent watchmaker? I dropped mine off for an overhaul on Monday. It should take about 2-3 weeks. SS Sub Date Y serial, papers dated 11/2003 and due for an overhaul.

Wow, what a post..I've had my gmt since 2001, and had it serviced 2 times, right now its getting serviced the 2nd time, they want it for 4 weeks, I was wondering why, now I know. I WISH THEY WOULD GIVE ME A LOANER:dude:

[mt666tm]

Good read. My Sub is due for a service, and I've always had questions as to what gets done. This will make it easier to pay the bill. Thanks!

[armoredsaint]

excellent write-up Vanessa, sorry if this has been addressed but my AD said it will take 8 weeks for the process and they do it all in-house. Is it common for it to be that long?

BTW, the service will be on a women's datejust ~1990 in mint condition and cost about $590 they quoted.

[crimsondonkey]

Great thread, very insightful and most reassuring.

[chester1]

Vanessa, Thanks for the excellent information! As as result I sent in my old GMT 16750 purchased back in '87 in for service. Anxiously awaiting it's return from it's $1,500 spa visit later this month. New plexi crystal, bezel insert, hands and dial being done. I suspect it will be like getting it back like new. Can't wait!!!!

[MURRAY]

So I'll repeat a question that I don't think was answered...If your aren't putting a watch through it's paces...and you aren't beating up the appearance.....how often is it really required to be serviced..

If it sits in a safe deposit box or something and is rarely ever used...wouldn't servicing it every 10, or 20 years be satisfactory?

Not advocating 'bucking the system' but would like to better understand the rationale for a 5 year incremental service profile...it would appear to me that usage should dictate the time of service...and not time itself....?

:thinking::thinking::thinking:

[Tools]

Rolex does not say "every 5 years"... they say that they recommend, "depending on usage about every 5 years". Two very different statements.

Vanessa has even said that Rolex is leaning more towards 8 years with the newer movements, oils, and technology..

[MURRAY]

Thanks Larry!

[KJJ]

Thanks!:thumbsup:

[NathanielA]

Vanessa, pardon me for the repetitious post... but what a wonderfully detailed, informative and helpful post. I don't think most people realized what a proper servicing of a Rolex entailed. I know I didn't. I'm very impressed and appreciative of your post.

Nathaniel

[bewithabob]

Vanessa thank you for sharing all of this incredible information (including the time that you allowed yourself time to have a cup of cofee in this process). I have long been impressed my the fine mechanical workings of my Rolex timepieces, and it astounds me to hear complaints about service requirements and costs when considering the technical precision, training, skills and talent required to bring these finely tuned instruments back to their original factory and COSC specifications and the benefits of we receive from highly trained experts like yourself who bring the case, bezel, hands, dial, crystal and bracelets back to their original sparkling new luster and beauty.

Oddly, the cosmetic impact of scratches on the case from the millions of human wrist movements receive fare more attention from the average person, which I am sure pales by comparison to the effects of the the 28,800 vph inside the case.

Think about the- 28,800 vph x 24 hours per day x 365 days per year x 5 years between services. Assuming the watch is use constantly, that translates to accurately measuring
1,264,440,000 beats -
157,680,000 seconds or
2,628,000 minutes or
43,800 hours or
1,825 days

In addition consider the number of times the crown and stem require unwinding for fine adjustment by the end user, and rewinding the parachrome spring. How many cycles can any human perform with such precision and accuracy?

[erolorhun]

Interesting and enlightening

[Vanessa]

If it sits in a safe deposit box or something and is rarely ever used...wouldn't servicing it every 10, or 20 years be satisfactory?


Honestly, in this case I recommend a service sooner!

Think about it: If you have a car sitting in a garage for two years, would you drive it cold turkey for who knows how many miles? Wouldn't you change the oil first and probably give it a fresh battery?

I'm not in favor of watchwinders, but I do recommend for a watch to be wound 40 times once a month to keep the oils evenly distributed. Hope this answers your question! (and I apologize for the late reply, I have been absent for a while)

[rollypolly]

wow, that is amazing... so the rule of thumb is every 5 years for service?

[cdelgado1982]

wow greattt info.. maybe u can help me with my watch,..

[Big Joe]

I appreciate what goes into a good service job. I have had a few watches worked on over the years and understand what is involved. I own a stringed instrument shop that does repairs, restorations, and custom builds. We run into the same issues that good watchmakers/ restorers do. Much of our work is redoing something a poor repair person did. It does make the job far more difficult, and often more expensive. I do one thing a bit different. I don't do estimates. When I see the instrument in hand I will go over it carefully and determine what must be done. I then give an exact price. After this many years in the business I better know what it will take for me to do the job. I feel if I am wrong I should be the one to lose, not my customer.

Restoring a stringed instrument can easily be as expensive as doing repair work on a good watch. Many of the instruments we work on are very expensive. It is not unusual for us to work on instruments worth far more than my Rolex.

All that being said, I recently had my Rolex serviced by Rolex in New York. It was returned within the time specified. It was a warranty repair but I received a call about ten days after the watch was sent by me AD and telling me the cost to repair the watch would be $585.00. I reminded them it was a warranty issue (the watch would not keep time...it is a GMT Master II 2 tone).

When I got the watch back it was absolutely filthy and was coated in some kind of compound that was very hard to remove. It also was not cleaned, the watch was not polished, and it had a few more scratches than it did when it was sent to them.

The watch has been back on my arm for 5 days and appears to be running correctly. That is the main issue I wanted addressed. However, when I called Rolex to ask about the condition it was returned they explained the work done inside the watch and was told they did not clean or polish it because it was "too new to polish or clean". I realize it was warranty work, but the watch has been on my arm for nearly two years and was in the store for a few years before that. I love the watch and also my Sub and my wife loves her date just.

It did not make me love my watches or make me want to wear my Rolex cap after being told my watch was "too new" to clean after they worked on it. I also told them it was not only dirty, but was scratched by them. The just ignored the comment and said it was "too new to polish or clean". That was repeated 4 times during the conversation.

I still love my Rolex's, and my GMT is still my favorite, but I cannot say Rolex is my favorite company. If I have to send my watch out again it will certainly NOT be to Rolex. I bought my Rolex's new and from an AD purposely to have the warranty and to know Rolex would take care of the watch for me at any time. I was not prepared for what experience I found with them. I had been contemplating another Rolex, but not anymore. There are plenty of other great companies that make some very interesting watches I could enjoy as much.

I should say I have my 2 Rolex's, my wife has one as well. In addition I have an Omega Seamaster, a Tag Huer Monaco, a Breitling Navitimer World, and a Breitling Chronomat. I recently sold an Omega Ocean Planet, a Tag Huer Aquaracer, and a Maurice LaCroix Moon Phase Chronograph. I also have a few other swiss auto's. I have had excellent service from the other companies and they seem to want to please the customer unlike Rolex.

[Rotorhead]

Thanks for sharing Vanessa, Great technical writeup on something I always wanted to know more about.

[pradeep]

Thanks Vanessa. Thats super info!

[Mikefxd]

This is good information for a new owner.

[kj19]

Vanessa, why are you not in favor of watch winders? Do you believe they do more harm than good?

[Nashville cat]

Wow....I knew it was involved --but you have a lot of patience..

[Rolex tom]

I've had mine serviced 40 plus times and maybe you should charge more as I've seen it rise from £20 to £300 it will rise again. Great post and thanks for the extra info

[Manx]

Very interesting Vanessa, thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

-M-

[DCgator]

Great, informative and well articulated information. Many thanks, Vanessa.

[rolex rob]

great info on a rolex service do you change seals on the winding crown as well' regards rob

[simon B]

Vanessa
I agree with the mainspring change, I too change during a service "now" Had a omega moonwatch #321 back after 11months and 2 weeks. the mainspring change on these requires the complete movement to be stripped so effectively a full service again. why take the risk of a return for the cost of the spring,rolex has a better policy than some others.
Simon B

[chstoft]

So I guess it is possible to use your watch too less?

[sond86]

Thx!

[marcosm]

Hi,
Thanks for the post and your info.
I'd like to ask you a question.
I have a 1997 Rolex Date with an Engine Turned Bezel and I would like to change it to a Domed Bezel. I called the Authorized Technical Assistance here in Brazil and the attendant told me that they can't change the bezel type not to loose the model originality. Is that correct? Isn't possible to change the bezel model on a Authorized Technical Assistance?
Thanks
Marcos

[marcosm]

soory, i had duplicated the post reply.
Thanks again Vanessa for the nice post

[katana]

Hello,I bought a Daydate commited so I take watch to the ROLEX service.With all gaskets,etc.I pay 5.700 SEK=800 USD.Asked when is the next time ?They said if approx 10.years.Now is this in SWEDEN.Have a question ?How upload I photo on the page ?Thanks from katana

[ingoodtime]

I've had mine serviced 40 plus times and maybe you should charge more as I've seen it rise from £20 to £300 it will rise again. Great post and thanks for the extra info

Tom...really???? 40 plus times? Let's see...once every 5 Years.....so at 20 years old, that's 4 times, so 40 years is 8 times, 60 years is 12 times, 80 years is 16 times....man, you have a really crappy watch! :rofl:

[Ski Dweller]

I just serviced my Sea Dweller in Dallas. It wasn't cheap. The watch looks fantastic and purrs like a cat. Timekeeping seems better, and it should be. They now have a 2 year warranty on the service. Thus, if the piece is off more than it should be, I can send it back for readjustment free of (additional) charge.

[Big Joe]

I posted on April 27, 2010 about my experience with Rolex Service in New York. I am no happier with them for the issues I stated then. However, the main thing is that the watch does work perfectly since getting it back. My AD cleaned and buffed the exterior of the watch and did what they could to rectify the situation. They stood in place of Rolex and took excellent care of me. I purchased it from Jared's jewelry and have purchased a number of watches from them including the 3 Rolexes we have. I have been more than satisfied with Jared's, but no so much with Rolex itself.

The GMT Master II is still my favorite watch and probably always will, but Rolex as a company is still not in my favored category. Should I decide to obtain a new watch at some time in the future, it will not likely be a Rolex. At least not a new one. I have given them the last penny I wish for them to have. They need to clean up their act before I or others I can affect would give them another penny.

[CashGap]

My AD cleaned and buffed the exterior of the watch and did what they could to rectify the situation. They stood in place of Rolex and took excellent care of me. I purchased it from Jared's jewelry and have purchased a number of watches from them including the 3 Rolexes we have. I have been more than satisfied with Jared's, but no so much with Rolex itself.


Good to hear about Jared's, they are on my list.

Hmm, Nashville, Master Luthier, worked with Charlie, eh? We've probably met, I was at the big G from April 1997 to April 2003. Now I'm in the copier business, and you might know my accounting controller, Chuck K.

Small world!

[giuliolib]

Dear Vanessa,
I have a problem with my ROLEX Sea-Dweller.
I have serviced it a month ago, before the service the Rolex going +15/18 sec. Every day. Now after the service going -18/24 sec every day.
Can you tell me a reasonable gap per day after a very good service.
Thank you very much to help me.
Best regards
Giulio
P.S. sorry for my poor english, I am an Italian.

[tulgsT]

I posted on April 27, 2010 about my experience with Rolex Service in New York. I am no happier with them for the issues I stated then. However, the main thing is that the watch does work perfectly since getting it back. My AD cleaned and buffed the exterior of the watch and did what they could to rectify the situation. They stood in place of Rolex and took excellent care of me. I purchased it from Jared's jewelry and have purchased a number of watches from them including the 3 Rolexes we have. I have been more than satisfied with Jared's, but no so much with Rolex itself.

The GMT Master II is still my favorite watch and probably always will, but Rolex as a company is still not in my favored category. Should I decide to obtain a new watch at some time in the future, it will not likely be a Rolex. At least not a new one. I have given them the last penny I wish for them to have. They need to clean up their act before I or others I can affect would give them another penny.


Rolex NYC recently moved their service center facility out of the HQ in NYC due to financial reasons. I think it is now located in Long Island City. They were completely disorganized during the transition. Not an excuse, but it may explain the care they took. This has been the main reason why I have been holding off getting mine serviced in NYC.

[Big Joe]

Good to hear about Jared's, they are on my list.

Hmm, Nashville, Master Luthier, worked with Charlie, eh? We've probably met, I was at the big G from April 1997 to April 2003. Now I'm in the copier business, and you might know my accounting controller, Chuck K.

Small world!

Yep.... spent 15 years with Charlie at his shop and at Gibson. Our shop is in Madison and we build, repair, and restore instruments. Stop by some time and say hey. We probably do know each other, and I do know Chuck. Have a Great Day!
Joe

[Horton]

Hi Vanessa
Have you ever seen a 6495 model Rolex?
I have one that I bought in 1990 from an antique watch dealer in Hong Kong.
Shop is still there today.
I have just had it serviced by a Rolex Tech. and he tells me it is a 1956 or 58 yr. of manufacture, I can't remember for sure which yr.
The serial number is 185285. It is a very nice watch, and is keeping great time.
I am using it daily. The case is starting to show a little pitting in the gold plate in some places. I know there is a lot of different schools of thought about repairs etc. but if I wanted could the case ever be replated?

[richard1948]

Interesting information on servicing.

One question, I note you say that you put watch 'face up' in safe overnight. Is there a correct way to lie a Rolex down eg at night on bedside cabinet, I rest mine on the side, is this incorrect?

[captjcd]

Farmer's daughter's post is much like the story of my wife's watch in another thread - a 50 (ish) yr old Oyster Perpetual (no date) that has hopefully been resurrected by a local watch technician (miracle worker!) after being told Rolex didn't want to know! I should have read these other threads before asking stupid questions! Thanks for the interesting details explanation, and keep up the good work... Cheers, Jeff (currently an Omega wearer)

[philr_1@hotmail.com]

I bought an Explorer II in 1987. It is a “cream/rail” dial and I’m considering sending it to Rolex in Dallas to have it cleaned with strict instructions to refurbish replacing the bezel and crystal, leaving the original dial and hands.

I've worn the watch since I purchased, therefore the crystal has some chips around the edges, the bezel and case are scratched from wear and the black markings have been gone for years.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_MRIqtdA3z3k/TZcsHyDseTI/AAAAAAAAAOU/pAseijvoWhk/s400/DSCN0070.JPG [https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_MRIqtdA3z3k/TZcsJASofiI/AAAAAAAAAOY/GVqoGf-rL8w/s400/DSCN0704.JPG

Overtime even one of the hinges on the clasp wore through and I had that piece of the hinge replaced.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_MRIqtdA3z3k/TZc-VX3d7dI/AAAAAAAAAOs/r44rnUdDsmQ/s640/DSCN0712.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_MRIqtdA3z3k/TZc-WbdMRbI/AAAAAAAAAOw/axrF_WFNUhs/s640/DSCN0711.JPG

I was in New York recently, window shopping on 47th when I was stopped and informed that I was wearing an extremely desirable watch. I thought the guy was nuts, but when I got back to Kansas City I googled the watch and discovered that it is somewhat of an anomaly.

Presently it runs fast and I have not been able to find anyone local to clean and adjust the watch to the accuracy that it once had.

I read that others have sent their watch to Rolex for service and have had them returned completely refurbished replacing only the pieces that Rolex still had available from the date of original manufacturing, respecting the owners desire to not replace the face and dials.

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=43452

If possible, I would like to have it brought back so the appearance is close to new like the example below from the link above.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b322/jason427/ROLEX/ITSBACK6.jpg

I have no intentions of ever selling the watch, however I do know from other items I own, especially firearms and optical devices, that changing their patina have significant impact upon their rarity.


Thank you in advance for your opinions.

Phil

[watchf]

What happened to Vanessa the OP? She was last online in 2010.

[Island Dreamer]

Vanessa,

Not too long - just right. I've not sent my Rolex for service yet, but have sent my Panerai and IWC. The process, I hope is similar. Thanks for the insight.

Island Dreamer

[Crobson06]

Vanessa, Like many here, I too wish to thank you. I don't think your discussion was too long, I loved it!

I just dropped my child off at the Rolex Service Center here in Dallas. I am amazed at the technology of the watch and your skill! Thank you!

Charlie

[Tank1734]

I have always wondered what all went into a servicing. Now I know. Thanks for the info!

[DJoyce]

Hi Vanessa, out of curiosity, do you work on "vintage" Rolex watches? Apparently Rolex does not service vintage watches (or very few of them, and only if they have the parts but I spoke to someone at Rolex Canada and so did a local Rolex dealer and they said that they don't service vintage 1960's-era watches).

[jerseybob]

Some common questions I hear a lot: "What does a service include?" "Why does it cost so much?" "How long does it take to service a Rolex?"
I'm sorry if the answer is a bit long, but this is what, why and how long:



This is what I do when I service a Rolex….

I open the case and remove the rotor.
I remove the movement from the case. I continue to take off the hands and remove the dial and date disc. The mainspring gets unwound and at this point the movement goes into the cleaner.

I continue with taking the case apart; removing the bezel, and crystal.
I change into a different lab coat, put on gloves and a face mask to start the refinishing of the case and bracelet.
First I buff the case with a hard wheel and a certain compound which makes the case so hot that the wheel starts smoking. I then clean the case in the ultrasonic cleaner and continue with a different polishing wheel that’s softer. I will high-polish the bezel and case back and the bracelet if applicable.
Once the case back is clean in the ultrasonic, I will now high-polish that one as well.
I will change the polishing wheel once more to a soft wheel and again a different compound and give it the finishing super high polish on the parts needed.
While all those finished parts are in the cleaner, I will brush polish the clasp with a hard wheel, followed by a softer brush wheel.
Then I tape off the polished areas on the bracelet to brush-polish the rest of it. When that’s done I change back to the high-polish wheel to polish the side of the bracelet and clasp.
I steam clean all the parts of the case and put them on a dryer. Once the case is dry, I put the final brush polish to the lugs and case back with a special filing technique.


The movement (let’s say a 3135) has finished the pre-cleaning process, and can now be checked and disassembled.
The date parts are first, flowed by the automatic mechanism: I first check the end-shake* on all wheels.
I then take out all (3) screws and put them in the small cleaning baskets. I will check the rotor axle and replace it when necessary. I continue with the disassembling of the movement.
I first check the end-shake on the balance wheel. Then I remove the shock-absorbent jewels. The balance wheel is carefully removed and put aside after I unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the bridge in place. I proceed with the pallet fork. Again I check end-shake and remove 2 screws to take off the bridge and remove the pallet fork. At this point I check the freedom of the train with winding the mainspring just a little bit. Then I check all the gears’ end-shakes and remove the 3 screws that hold the train bridge to remove the escape wheel, second wheel, third wheel and great wheel. I then check every wheel meticulously to check for worn pivots, and replace the one that are not perfect anymore with new ones.
When at any moment the end-shake wasn’t satisfactory I then move the jewels up or down to correct the error and reassemble the wheel to check again until it's perfect.
I proceed with removing the screws on the ratchet wheel and bridge to remove the barrel with the mainspring. Now I can open the barrel and remove the mainspring which goes straight into my garbage can.
I proceed with taking the rest of the watch apart, including the winding mechanism. I put the balance back onto the main plate to prevent the hairspring from getting tangled up while it’s cleaning.
Now the disassembled movement goes into the cleaner again to get its full cleaning. In the mean time I’ll have a coffee, and I will assemble the case with crystal and bezel.

When the movement is clean I put on some finger cots, and start with putting the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel into a special liquid lubricant.
I apply grease on the inside of the barrel wall and put a new mainspring in it. I close the barrel and check the end-shake of the arbor to make sure it’s free.
I continue with taking the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel out of the special lubricant and dry them with hot air from a hairdryer. Now I can take the balance back of the main plate and start putting the watch back together. Again the watch has 6 different lubricants and every lube has a very specific role into making the watch run as perfect as possible. When a grease or oil gets applied too much or too little, or at the wrong location within the watch, the amplitude and timing of the watch won’t be as it should.
Once the watch is assembled (and I’m not going to explain every single step as this is already getting way to long) I put it on my timer to check the beat, amplitude and time. Everything gets adjusted accordingly if necessary and I time the watch in 6 different positions to be within -1 to +4.

Once that’s achieved I assemble the dial and hands (when the date jumps at 12) and put the movement in the case. At this time I do the final timing at full wind and half wind, and adjust if necessary.
Then I assemble the automatic mechanism and check for freedom of the rotor.

Once that’s all up to standard, I close the case with new gaskets and put it on a dry pressure test. When it passes (or not) I proceed with the wet test, and make sure the watch doesn’t leak.
I can then put the bracelet on, set the time equal to my atomic clock and store it in my safe with the crown left, until the next day.
Then I check the time again compared to the atomic clock and note the amount of seconds it’s + or -.
Then I put it on my automatic winder for a day, check again and finally I put it dial up in my safe again to check the next day, and the day thereafter to see when the watch stopped to check the power reserve.
At this time, if everything is within standards I call the customer that his/her watch is ready. If not, I have to find the problem, possibly adjust or start over! This all comes with a 2-year warranty on the work performed.

The tools and materials needed to work on Rolex watches and to keep the account in positive standing are about a $30,000 investment. Plus we have to maintain them and pay rent for the work space. I have gone to a 3-year full-time watchmaking school and undergone many hours of specialized training to do this job.

So now, let’s see… hmmm I guess the four hundred-something dollars I charge might not be enough if I think about it…:thinking:

*end-shake: the free longitudinal movement of arbors or the like between bearings.
That means I have to evaluate the amount of movement of a wheel between the jewels. Some can be 0.01mm others 0.02 up to 0.06mm. This can only be determined by the experienced, and louped watchmaker's eye! :chuckle:

:cheers:
Vanessa
Thanks for all the info....I have a GMT Master II which is about 15 years old and needs to be serviced. I found this forum to try to find out where to send my watch. I don't want to just bring it to the jeweler because I know they'll just send it out. I'd much rather bring it to a watchmaker who'll actually do the work; someone with a reputation to protect.

How do I find such a person? Do you know of anyone reliable in my area?

[polishing peanuts]

Problem is, now that I know what 'they' are going to do to my beloved watch, I am terrified that 'they' are going to screw it up somehow. It seems just so complicated!

What are the chances of getting a person as good as Vanessa working on your watch?

Hmm, especially as the watch is working 'perfectly'.

[jmcadon]

I want to know where to have it done for $500! My service cost $650 in 2005 and it is time for a tuneup! Mine also runs fast...always has. There is real time and there is Rolex time :)

[songzunhuang]

My wife's watch has been serviced twice and it's stopped again. I need to find someone who can do a better job. The last time I had it serviced, I could swear that I could hear a light grinding as I moved it around to wind it. I never liked that sound and now that the watch has stopped, I am sure that the service center didn't do a quality job.

I have an Explorer II and I have never had it serviced. It's been about 12 years now. It still runs perfectly and I am a bit paranoid after the experience with my wife's watch.

In any case, if someone could recommend a place near Santa Cruz, CA that they have had a good experience with, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Desertdueller]

Hi Vanessa,
Im new here in this forum. I am a happy owner of a GMT Master II 16710, but so disappointed today due to the result of a servicing done to my watch.
I just like to ask some information about the service. Mine had been with me for almost 5 years now, so I sent it for its first servicing beginning this month. It took about 3 1/2 weeks. So last night I picked it up from the Rolex dealer shop here in dubai. To my shocked, 4 out of the 12 indexes have black dotted marks right at its center and an almost teardrop shape black marks on the 12 oclock index. Would you have any idea if what it could be ? I am so afraid that the guy who did the service ruined my Rolex watch. I returned the watch today for re-servicing and to correct what had been done,hoping that its only dirt, but so annoyed on the people who handled my complain, as if implying that those marks were cause by wear and tear in its 5 years of usage. Is what they say possible that those dials scratched those indexes? Do you use some sort of clamp when handling the dials and face when cleaning it? sorry I have not been able to take photos, since i was so irritated and rushed to return it.

Thanks,
Frank

[Vanessa]

Hi Vanessa,
Im new here in this forum. I am a happy owner of a GMT Master II 16710, but so disappointed today due to the result of a servicing done to my watch.
I just like to ask some information about the service. Mine had been with me for almost 5 years now, so I sent it for its first servicing beginning this month. It took about 3 1/2 weeks. So last night I picked it up from the Rolex dealer shop here in dubai. To my shocked, 4 out of the 12 indexes have black dotted marks right at its center and an almost teardrop shape black marks on the 12 oclock index. Would you have any idea if what it could be ? I am so afraid that the guy who did the service ruined my Rolex watch. I returned the watch today for re-servicing and to correct what had been done,hoping that its only dirt, but so annoyed on the people who handled my complain, as if implying that those marks were cause by wear and tear in its 5 years of usage. Is what they say possible that those dials scratched those indexes? Do you use some sort of clamp when handling the dials and face when cleaning it? sorry I have not been able to take photos, since i was so irritated and rushed to return it.

Thanks,
Frank

Frank,
That does sound to me like a damage caused by the watchmaker, if you didn't have this problem before. You did good by returning it, and I hope they'll fix it as needed. If it's dirt that doesn't come off, they should replace the dial.
The most likely reason this was caused is by putting the dial upside down on a dirty surface.
Good luck.
Vanessa

[Desertdueller]

Dear Vanessa,

Thank you ! i am still waiting for the shops call. I dont have an idea of what theyre gonna do with my watch. I am so disappointed with them and will never use their service again.
Now, i am only hopeful that it will be returned to its original state.

Cheers,
Frank

[siewmaiwatch]

Hello! Thank you for this post. May i just check with you and take from your expert opinion. I recently purchased a NOS bnib 16610lv Z series about 1.5 weeks ago.

Would you recommend that i have it serviced? Everything seems to be in check so far. I wear it everyday to monitor any problems. Time is accurate so far comparing with my other automatic watches. I've showered with the watch and washed it under running water a few times. No problems so far.

Many thanks in advance!

[subed]

First post FYI RSC in US charges $600 to service sub and $550 for Tudor sub.

[ChetCa]

I'm not in favor of watchwinders, but I do recommend for a watch to be wound 40 times once a month to keep the oils evenly distributed. Hope this answers your question! (and I apologize for the late reply, I have been absent for a while)

Sorry if it's a stupid question, but I really don't know :crying:
Do you mean I wound it 40 times(turn the dial knob 40 times)? Then next month I wound 40 times again?
I hardly wear my watch, may be 5 times a year.

[steebee2]

Thx Vanesa. Great post!!

[Macgomez]

Wow, that's sum serious stuff. Worth every £,€,$ or ¥......

Mac..

[NTMG]

I was quoted $700-$900 to have my Rolex serviced. What is a fair price?

[CPAWatchFan]

That is interesting - thanks

How many services can a watch go through - with the buffing that is done?

[Daniel Tan]

I wonder if we send our Rolex to the RSC to service... How do we know if our 100% original "new" movement (that never been open case before one) would be accidentally replaced by other "used movement" ? Is there any movement chassis number or something that engrave on the calibre which can make sure it is our own movement?

[Quackers]

Great post Vanessa, thanks. Really informative and a great read too!