View Full Version : Vintage jubilee bracelet - repair or replace?
thom
1 June 2009, 08:48 PM
Chaps,
First post here for me and I can't even claim to be a long-time lurker so apologises if I trample over any forum etiquette or commit andy faux pas. I am a man in need though and hopefully you can help me out.
I'd long wanted a Rolex and when I made a bit of money about ten years back (before my kids hoovered up my disposable income) I decided to treat myself. I'm a simple man of simple needs, I merely wanted a stainless steel date-adjust oyster, ideally a vintage, ideally with a jubilee bracelet.
Despite scouting around various shops and speaking to the odd dealer I just couldnt seem to find one (this was before the internet/online shopping thing had really hit it's stride) but then by chance I saw one on sale in a jewellers on 5th Avenue whilst on holiday in NY.
I bought it, I loved it, I wore it 24/7.
Until this weekend. I was out running and some idiot opened a car-door onto my arm, the bracelet caught on the top of the door frame and tore apart. I've lost maybe five small links (the small curled ovals of metal) and one of the "wings".
Looked everywhere, repeatedly. They're just gone.
Obviously there's a process here of firstly not punching the guys lights out (I just about managed that) and then sourcing a new jubilee bracelet and getting it rereplaced (with a missing wing I think repair is out of the question?).
The issue is that having compared my jubilee - bearing in mind my watch is 60s/70s era - with a friend's new jubilee there are significant difference. Looking side on the outer "solid" elements of my bracelet are perfect ovals, whereas his are half ovals, flat against the wrist.
Also, my links are simply pinched pieces of metal, and you can see where they each joins on the underside of the bracelet - his are seamless. My watch also has slightly different etching on the clasp - mine says USA, which I like, as I bought it in the States and it reminds me of my trip.
My questions therefore to you good and knowledgable people are threefold:
a) Will a standard new jubilee fit a vintage Rolex? What's the going rate for this? Worst case scenario, at least I can wear it again.
b) Is it possible to source a vintage bracelet - original or repro? - which has the same design as the original so it is in keeping with the watch - i would much prefer this.
c) Could it in fact be repaired as I'd love to keep the clasp, for example by a specialist watchmaker holds spares he can cannibalise from? This would be the best option.
I'm really gutted, and I would just like the watch back together and as "original" as possible. I'm based over in the UK (not sure if most of you guys are Stateside?) but any advice and input much appreciated.
Then I have to get the money out of the guy who did this. Though in a perverse sort of way that'll be the fun part, he wasn't exactly effusive in his apologies...
Cheers
Thom
Lol-x
1 June 2009, 09:40 PM
Photos can be useful in giving you assistance.
However, from what you say, I would look at a genuine Rolex jubilee bracelet off e-bay.
The current bracelet has solid end links and will not be suitable. Im guessing you have a 1601 Date-Just.
I'm guessing that the repair of your bracelet (including the cost of links if they are available) is likely to be a lot more than getting a genuine Rolex bracelet.
:cheers:
Alcan
1 June 2009, 09:49 PM
Hi Thom, welcome aboard! :cheers:
b) Is it possible to source a vintage bracelet - original or repro? - which has the same design as the original so it is in keeping with the watch - i would much prefer this.
There are several solid sellers right here on TRF. Try giving Steve Mulholland a PM, he comes up with all kinds of Rolex stuff.
thom
1 June 2009, 09:53 PM
Lol-x, thanks for this, I too am assuming that replacement will be cheaper than repair.
Just to be clear though, if I look at my bracelet side-on the larger outer elements are solid complete ovals, rather than solid half ovals (as my my colleague's new watch). It is the three inner rows of links which are effectively curls of metal with the joins left visible (on my original bracelet).
I'll try and post pictures but does this sound like a 1601 Date-Just jubilee bracelet? If so how easy is it to find a replacement for something so specific? I'll look on Ebay but without wanting to sound naiive (I'm not an Ebay user) how to I make sure the goods are legit?
I'm sure Rolexes and Rolex parts are a rich and fruitful market for scamsters and rip-off merchants.
Thanks for the prompt reply, much appreciated. I'll get having a look around online now to see what I can find.
Cheers
Thom
Lol-x
1 June 2009, 10:41 PM
As suggested Steve Mulholland is a good person to contact.
The oval link bracelets is the original model. Rolex don't make those anymore. Rolex uses suitable replacement bracelets with the D shape links. These are fine, but you do need to make sure you get the right one suitable for your model watch.
:cheers:
zak98
1 June 2009, 10:51 PM
As suggested Steve Mulholland is a good person to contact.
The oval link bracelets is the original model. Rolex don't make those anymore. Rolex uses suitable replacement bracelets with the D shape links. These are fine, but you do need to make sure you get the right one suitable for your model watch.
:cheers:
ditto. steve is super to deal with and highly recommend. he may be able to assist.
Imtiaz
1 June 2009, 11:46 PM
Best get a replacement bracelet and not worry about fixing the old one.
If you cannot get the money off the guy, you could go for a leather strap for the moment till you find the one you want.
The main thing is to not buy the Chinese made replacement. They demean the dignity of the watch.
thom
5 June 2009, 09:17 PM
Thanks one and all for the feedback, I just thought I'd update you as to progress:
I checked in with Watches of Switzerland here in Manchester and they said Rolex do still make the bracelets for my age and model of watch (with the oval profile links etc) and gave me a price of £360 for the parts and labour.
I'm assuming short of fluking upon an exact match genuine refurbed 1960's bracelet then getting a modern one from Rolex is the best course of action? I'm also assuming (hoping) the comment about inferior Chinese bracelets refers to knock-offs and that Rolex haven't outsourced their manufacturing to Asia or anything?
As for the bloke who did this he's now bare-faced denying everything. In short he's a, well, fill in your own expletive. This thing will run and run, if not escalate and escalate... Legal battle here we come. Me? I just want my watch fixed and back on my wrist!
Cheers
Thom
mcjp6
5 June 2009, 11:17 PM
I checked in with Watches of Switzerland here in Manchester and they said Rolex do still make the bracelets for my age and model of watch (with the oval profile links etc) and gave me a price of £360 for the parts and labour.
just for your info, I was in the Rolex service center today and they quoted me A$740 to replace my jubilee bracelet on a 1983 Datejust. So your GBP 360 seems about right.
And let me tell you a new bracelet is absolutely stunning to look at, if you have the chance ask them to show you one, you will buy it for sure, really beautiful..:thumbsup:
Dalton
6 June 2009, 07:30 PM
Gotta talk to Steve.
I have used WOS to get replacement bracelets from Rolex for two of my vintage watches.
If you want a period correct bracelet as stated try Steve Mulholland:thumbsup:
vintage69
8 June 2009, 08:28 AM
repair, repair,repair-some of the vintage bracelets are worth the effort. My vintage 1505 has the original jubilee bracelet which adds to value because of the rarity of a date with a jubilee bracelet. Some rare earlier bracelets can be worth the cost of repair. For instance my 1505 bracelet has be valued at $5000, so a replacement would be a decrease in value.
Gold Crown
8 June 2009, 09:29 AM
Is this an all Stainless Band? You might want to just go with a newer D link Jubilee they are much stronger.
If you want to go original here ya go Happy Bidding!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rolex-SS-Jubilee-Band-for-Datejust-Model-USA-Oval-Link_W0QQitemZ120429304941QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWrist watches?hash=item1c0a255c6d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
Cozzer
8 June 2009, 11:25 AM
Send it to Michael Young at classicwatchparts.com in Hong Kong. He done a great job repairing my broken jubilee and replaced several links.
:clap:
buz-lh
8 June 2009, 11:59 AM
I second the Michael Young reference. He did a great job on my 16750's jubilee bracelet and currently has my rivet oyster and another jubilee he is repairing. Somewhat slow but well worth the wait.
SillyB
13 June 2009, 06:29 AM
Personally I am a big fan of the US made Jacoby Bender oval link bands. I find them to be more vintage looking and a little more comfortable as well. I have a substantial vintage band collection in addition to my watch collection. To me the pairing of a correct vintage bracelet or strap is crucial to the overall presentation of a vintage watch. I buy as much old jeweler's stock of bands as possible to have on hand to fit my watches with, and have had a lot of success buying NOS JB bands online. Keep in mind that JB made bands for many watch companies beside Rolex - Omega, Bulova, Longines to name a few. You may be able to find a nice oval link jubilee from a Longines which is 100% the same as your band and swap your clasp and end links to have a correct vintage replacement. I have found two near perfect JB oval links in the last few months for auction very cheap online. That's my $.02 - Happy hunting!
thom
13 August 2009, 11:09 PM
Argghhh...
Still no joy, months later, for reasons to complicated to go into (not least a focus on ensuring my company rides through the worst recession for eighty years without shedding staff or going bust!). The latest is that the Watches of Switzerland guy now says he can't replace the bracelet and the new ones would not be right for it.
I am therefore keen to take the advice on here and speak to Steve Mulholland. How would I go about finding him? What's his actual user name on here or does he have a company for phone/email? Thanks again for any and all feedback guys.
Cheers
Thom
agw2872
14 August 2009, 01:42 AM
Bummer Thom, I had one of those bracelets a few months ago that I sold on ebay for £100. Wish I had kept it cos it was a bit of a pain getting the sod to pay for it. Could of sold it to you with probably much less hassle. Andy
pz93c
14 August 2009, 01:56 AM
stevemulholland3 is his user name on here.
Just search by user name and drop him a PM.
agw2872
14 August 2009, 02:11 AM
Thom. Think this is what you are looking for. ebay item 280384277218 or 300318743215.:cheers:
Tools
14 August 2009, 03:14 AM
It's really tough to find the older oval link Jubilees.. especially any that are in good condition as the folded links tend to pull apart (stretch badly)..
What I would do is take the original off and take the watch head only into Rolex Bexley s?ervice Center, have them do a service (it does need one, doesn't it) and fit a new Jubilee to it..
I would then shop around, and as suggested, pick up an early Longines or other equivelent for the center links, and after a time have a "rebuilt" original in a safe place for future use..
There is no cheap solution to this problem.... if you were to find an original Rolex oval link, it would possibly be more than a brand new replacement directly from Rolex..
thom
17 August 2009, 09:10 PM
Guys,
Thanks to one and all for the feedback. I found Steve's email on another forum (where he was berating someone for being an imposter) and have contacted him direct.
He seems a great guy, and came straight back to me with a couple of options. He has part of an older oval link bracelet and reckons he can canibalise that to repair my own.
It seems the cheapest option and I'm hoping it will work a treat. You're right about the folded links through Tools, mine are pretty stretched already. Comes to us all with age I guess...
Hats off to this forum and all who dwell within her then (especially Steve); you've come close to sorting in a matter of days what I couldn't resolve in the last three months!
I'll keep you updated as to the outcome but I have my fingers crossed for a happy ending.
Cheers
Thom