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Old 21 April 2024, 02:39 AM   #7
Oryx
"TRF" Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: London
Posts: 1,889
I have been through this journey and as part of this process I have immersed myself in trying to really understand how each company really operates. The notion that each brand designs their own movements, makes their own components and make their watches in a very traditional and manual way is not the reality of it at all. A lot of brand use specialist movement designers such as Andreas Strehler and a lot of components are made via CNC by outside suppliers. Finishing also varies drastically from brand to brand with some makers still use traditional techniques and others using machines.

In the case of Laurent Ferrier for example use movements supplied by La Fabrique du Temps (owned by LVMH) and use a lot of automated processes. Even the likes or Dufour - who uses a base JLC calibre uses CNC machines etc. Gronefeld use movements designed by Strehler with compounents made by external suppliers and so focus on construction and finishing. The list goes on - even RW Smith uses CNC machines. In the case of GF they founders have created a great brand operating at the highest end of the market and catering to the very rich however they are currently going through major strategic transition with Stephen Forsey stepping down and handing the reigns to Antonio Calce after they company purchased the stake back from Richemont (funded by some Chinese investors). Hence the recent move down market into more accessible watches with smaller and more practical cases. Unfortunately this is also dilutive to the brands DNA and many collectors feel that the need to chase profits could dilute the brand. I think this is something to monitor and ultimately could have an impact on residuals over time.

For me the brands that have a real manufacturing capability supplying other brands with specialist components and parts such as Romain Gauthier, FP Journe and Voutilainen are the brands that will most likely to be around for the long term and the ones that I would recommend that you consider.
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