Well-rounded, modest collection

[erhein]

Assuming one does not have "F you" money, what is necessary for a well-rounded, modest collection. Does it have to have a Rolex? A classic, such as a Speedmaster? Does it need to have at least one watch with a classic movement, such as an El Primero? Do all of the watches have to have in-house movements, or are there acceptable classic brands which use off-the-shelf movements? Just curious as to what peoples' thoughts are on this.

[sierra11b]

Trying to fit a mold is sure recipe to flip. You have to ask yourself what you want.

I tried to hit every note and ended up with way too many watches. I finally sold off most and gave it some serious thought:

Speedy 3570.50 - It's iconic for a reason. I'd could walk away with this being my only watch and be happy. Plus I'm a space and aviation guy.

Milgauss GV - it may sound crazy but I sold a 116600 for this one. I used to own a V serial Milgauss GV when they first came out and flipped it. Big mistake. Although it's not everyones cup of tea and I'd concede the SDc is the better all around watch, I wanted something quirky and fun instead of another "vanilla" watch like my Speedy.

Dornbluth 99.1 - A casual deck watch I had custom made to mark the birth of my son. I rarely dress up but wanted something that might work with well enough with shorts as it would with a sport coat.

Pogue 6139 - Again, being a huge space guy finding an all original model was a no brainer. Has a fantastic and fun color to it and it an absolute joy to wear. Vintage Seiko has a lot of options and (for me anyway) as enjoyable to wear as a $10k watch.

Seiko SBBN015 Tuna - Nothing says practical dive watch than one with a robust Quartz movment under the hood (7C46). You can throw anything at this watch and it keeps coming back for more. It also serves as grab and go and has been so accurate I can set my other watches off it.

That's about it for me now and I've been very happy!

[tjbender]

Get what you like. You definitely cannot go wrong with a Rolex or a speedmaster as a starting point. Then perhaps something on a leather strap? Some ideas that come to mind: Rolex GMT function, Speedmaster, JLC Reverso for your dress watch. You can get all 3 used in the ball park of 12-14k and have all your bases covered.

[red1108nyc]

Rolex 16570 Explorer IIs are really well priced right now. Omega Speedmaster Professional and Seiko are also compelling options to round it out.

[Slider817]

Asside form the Tolken "buy what you love" answer, if you want to have a collection, not just a few watches that you like to wear, there is usually a theme, whether it's limited edition G-Shocks or swatch, or a chronograph from every top high end maker, or a great example from each of the major high end brands. The sky really is the limit, if you are looking to get a collection of iconic luxury watches, I think a Rolex is a must, but depends on what you are after.

I collect watches that I love and wear from high end brands, try to keep it to not more than one or two from each brand and get the iconic models from said brand.

I've bought and sold a few over the years to get these, and some I may re-buy but for now all mine are keepers, with a few new ones as the years go on

Current "Collection"
Rolex President 36mm YG
Rolex Milgauss GV
JLC Reverso tribute 1931
Vacheron Chronometre Royal (1990s white gold 34mm dress watch)
Patek 5146g annual calendar slate dial
Grand Seiko Quartz dress watch in steel, black dial 37mm

I have a few inexpensive beaters that I wear when I'm at the gym, or doing things like that, I don't really care much about them, and basically consider them disposable, luminous, G-Shock, Swatch etc...

Is there any theme, I'm not entirely sure, but it seems like a collection, or maybe it's just the watches I like to wear; thoughts?

[erhein]

I started with TAG Heuer based on the history of the brand and its affiliation, at the time, with F1 racing. In the first year, I bought an Aquaracer 300m, an Aquaracer two-tone automatic chronograph and a Formula 1 quartz chronograph. The next year I got an Indy 500 and a Carrera chronograph. Then I started to branch out and got an Ebel 1911 Discovery chronograph and a Festina Shockwave. All of these purchases were made based on what I liked without any real regard to movements. Then I started to get interested in looking at the more "serious" watches and came to the conclusion that a collection had to have a Rolex, so along came the Daytona 116523. Then I decided I wanted a watch with a second time zone complication, but didn't want to stay with what seemed to be obvious, the Rolex GMT, so I went with the JLC Master Compressor Geographic. Now, it seems I'm getting more serious with a more serious collection, I'm just curious what others think are necessities. I'm not looking to be told what to buy, but just how others think. Frankly, when I bought the first TAG, I thought that was IT! Now, of course, I know better. The more you get into this crazy hobby and the more you pay attention to movements and manufacturers, the more fascinating it becomes...and expensive. Thanks for everyone's thoughts.

[Slider817]

I think I understand better now what your talking about, without going completely nuts, this is generally what I'd like my collection to be like,

1) Rolex in Steel, or maybe 2, 1 gold and 1 steel

2) Complicated Patek, some sort of modern annual or perpetual calendar

3)Vacheron dress watch

4) AP Royal Oak, 15400 or the Chrono, maybe the dual time depending what other complications I have.

5) JLC Reverso, so many cool versions, probably also a Memovox, an alarm is a cool complication. Maybe the JLC true second Geophysic is very tempting. So either 2 or 3 JLC

6) Grand Seiko Quartz and Spring Drive Chronograph

7) Lange Chronograph, 39mm Datograph or 1815 Chrono

8)some independent small brands, FP Journe, RGM, RM, I'd probably go for an FP Journe CB or CS

9) Omega Speedmaster, so many to choose from, would be nice to have the Co-axial movement

10) a few interesting vintage watches, maybe some 1950s chronographs, or vintage Patek Calatrava, maybe some older VC or AP watches.

11) minute repeater vintage pocket watch, would love a wristwatch MR, but they are obscenely priced and super delicate, for under $5,000 you can get a fantastic MR in a pocket watch, just for some eye candy on my desk.

For me that would be a very complete collection, I am on my way, if you look at my collection above.

[drhr]

Depends is really the, well my, answer. After going through a 100 or so watches from numerous brands (though the individual watches were of the same general type), these are what I currently love but flux is a constant. As has been said, subjective/personal . . .

[capote]

Originally Posted by drhr

Depends is really the, well my, answer. After going through a 100 or so watches from numerous brands (though the individual watches were of the same general type), these are what I currently love but flux is a constant. As has been said, subjective/personal . . .

What a great collection I really like the 5196p and those reversos

[zama]

If you have a limited budget maybe go for one great pieces rather than more lesser options, this would be my advice. I have reduced and consolidated my collection over time. Speedie, Sub are all good options.

[namussuz bilo]

For me a well rounded collection is one dress watch, one sports watch and one beater. Which brands and models is totally your choice.

[erhein]

Probably, the only true rule of thumb is that there is no true rule of thumb. It's interesting, though, to hear and see what others believe to be the essentials. Thanks.

[judson]

My advice is to look at the "Your watch collection in one photo" thread on the Rolex general discussion and see what watches interest you. Write them down and and start to prioritize.

Your tastes will change as well as the price of your options. It took me a few years to decide I could spend the money on a Rolex, now I'm seriously considering a Patek.

[subtona]

Submariner is a wonderful choice and my first but there are so many others.

Speedy pro
Rolex GMT
Rolex EXP II

Sheikh divers

Vintage 2 register chronos with Lemania movements

Decide if you want sport, dress, manual wind, automatic, steel, gold, flash, understated, water resistance, screw down crowns, crown guards, lug holes, leather straps, bracelets....

Something I would offer to keep in mind, for me I try to put together a small collection of pieces not too similar to one another...as it was my first and favorite, I started with 5 submariner variations and grew to this...

[erhein]

So, after a great deal of shopping and thinking, this is what I ended up with. I decided I needed a classic Speedmaster, but didn't want a manual wind, so I went with the '57. Updated classic design; interesting in-house movement; nice size; and beautiful color dial. I got it from DavidSW, my second purchase from him, the first being a JLC Master Compressor Geographic. Both have been flawless transactions.

[Peterandwatches]

My collection is bit larger, but I do want a least 3-4 quality pieces that include a diver, chrono, GMT, and possibly a dress watch.

I think the Sub and Speedmaster are great building blocks and give the best value, so that's why you see them all the time in collections. I previously had a 1969 Zenith Tribute, but I swapped it for the Speedmaster recently.

My favorite brands are Rolex, JLC, and Patek, so ideally, I'd like them all represented somehow.

[erhein]

I started with TAGs. First was an Aquaracer 300m. Next was an Aquaracer TT automatic chronograph. Then came a TAG Carrera tachymetre and a F1 Indy 500. Then I branched out to an Ebel 1911 Discovery chronograph. After that, I started getting a little more serious, so I moved to the Rolex Daytona 116523. And after that, the JLC and now the Speedmaster. One of these days I'll start thinning things out. When I bought the first TAG, I never foresaw having an actual collection. Having a wonderful and tolerant wife helps.

[asleep]

Originally Posted by erhein

Assuming one does not have "F you" money, what is necessary for a well-rounded, modest collection. Does it have to have a Rolex? A classic, such as a Speedmaster? Does it need to have at least one watch with a classic movement, such as an El Primero? Do all of the watches have to have in-house movements, or are there acceptable classic brands which use off-the-shelf movements? Just curious as to what peoples' thoughts are on this.

Buy watches you love.

[RUK]

Really like this question as I ponder on this a lot.
I started with a Speedmaster 3570. 50 as it's an icon and has limitless strap options to dress it up and down. It's also got a superb history and a cool movement.
I then added a Rolex submariner as a daily watch. It's the 114060 non date as I don't like the Rolex Cyclops. It's a modern Rolex that is as close to the original sub in my opinion.
I love JLC for the history and affordability and the horological importance of the company. I chose a Reverso 976 for its size and the display case back. I love this watch but I'm looking at trading it for a Reverso ultra think day night.
Every collection has to have a Patek so I added the blue 5711. It's a Patek that I can wear every day and take on holidays if I want to. It's also not a Patek that you see often.
Finally I have the odd balls of the collection. A IWC Portuguese chrono with the gorgeous blue hands. Love his watch but the brand and movement aren't that special. I also have a Blue sunburst Seiko 5 and a G Shock as "beater watches" (Had a Pepsi GMT,116610,Omega Planet ocean ... All sold/traded at this stage)

The only other watches I find myself looking at now are Patek complications, FP Journe,and AP Royal Oak.

Hope that helps!





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[lapince]

There are NO rules, just depends on your tastes and financial capacities, nothing else, so if you tell u you have XXXXXXXX$, would like XX watches, and some more details it's possible but a perfect collection IMO is different for each person, I don't like to have too many watches, had 9 at 1 point and didn't like it, prefer when it's between 3 and 5,that's just 1 of the many examples….

[el1125]

Originally Posted by erhein

Assuming one does not have "F you" money, what is necessary for a well-rounded, modest collection. Does it have to have a Rolex? A classic, such as a Speedmaster? Does it need to have at least one watch with a classic movement, such as an El Primero? Do all of the watches have to have in-house movements, or are there acceptable classic brands which use off-the-shelf movements? Just curious as to what peoples' thoughts are on this.

I will answer the first question. Yes, must have a Rolex...

[vman]

First of all, one should mind the total cost of ownership that covers scheduled services and potential repairs. Given the limited budget, some complications will become prohibitively expensive to maintain. For example, the cost of service for perpetual calendars or timepieces like Glashutte Original Datagraph is substantial compared to the cost of servicing sports Rolex or Omega models. Also, consider your patience. Perpetual calendars will not be in and out of a spa in two weeks.

Secondly, there are some pieces that could be considered a must for the sake of the fact that if watch collecting becomes a bore, you can sell them off easily. That's why getting a Submariner or a Speedmaster is a good choice.

Thirdly, quality trumps quantity. A Submariner and a Speedmaster sitting next to each other in a watch box is a pretty well rounded sports collection that may exist on its own for years. If you itch for something else, make it special, e.g., a Lange, a Patek, an AP or of similar variety. There is a rookie tendency of going for quality as it is much easier to drop, say $7K on a new-ish GMT, as opposed to saving twice this amount and getting a pre-loved Vacheron Patrimony. In any case, if I were to limit myself to three watches, the third one would be a substantially different and a more interesting watch.

Happy hunting!

[p_mcgee]

Sporty watch, dress watch, beater. At least 1 dark & 1 light dial.


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[erhein]

Not a great picture, but I thought I'd post a picture of my modest collection.

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by el1125

I will answer the first question. Yes, must have a Rolex...

[subtona]

paired down it looks like this

[subtona]

Originally Posted by RUK

Really like this question as I ponder on this a lot.
I started with a Speedmaster 3570. 50 as it's an icon and has limitless strap options to dress it up and down. It's also got a superb history and a cool movement.
I then added a Rolex submariner as a daily watch. It's the 114060 non date as I don't like the Rolex Cyclops. It's a modern Rolex that is as close to the original sub in my opinion.
I love JLC for the history and affordability and the horological importance of the company. I chose a Reverso 976 for its size and the display case back. I love this watch but I'm looking at trading it for a Reverso ultra think day night.
Every collection has to have a Patek so I added the blue 5711. It's a Patek that I can wear every day and take on holidays if I want to. It's also not a Patek that you see often.
Finally I have the odd balls of the collection. A IWC Portuguese chrono with the gorgeous blue hands. Love his watch but the brand and movement aren't that special. I also have a Blue sunburst Seiko 5 and a G Shock as "beater watches" (Had a Pepsi GMT,116610,Omega Planet ocean ... All sold/traded at this stage)

The only other watches I find myself looking at now are Patek complications, FP Journe,and AP Royal Oak.

Hope that helps!

Like the fpj on your wrist best.

5170 of course is always a favorite.

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by erhein

Assuming one does not have "F you" money, what is necessary for a well-rounded, modest collection. Does it have to have a Rolex? A classic, such as a Speedmaster? Does it need to have at least one watch with a classic movement, such as an El Primero? Do all of the watches have to have in-house movements, or are there acceptable classic brands which use off-the-shelf movements? Just curious as to what peoples' thoughts are on this.

On a tighter budget, you just need to start with that "one watch" to build around on.

Start with a shorts to boardroom type of watch like maybe a Sub or Speedy etc...

Then add a dress watch, a very rugged watch, maybe a chrono if you don't have one yet etc...complimentary pieces to your main watch. All you really need are 3 or 4.

Then of course, you can get into micros, vintage and Japanese watches - this is where your collection can get out of control hahaha. I mean, there are dozens of interesting pieces here from $100-1000.

The key tho is to spend the most on the watch you'll wear the most. Your money will just go much further that way.

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[themast]

This is a recurrent question for many of us. I think there are no hard rules, anybody finds his way through this crazy hobby. Some needs to buy, flip, shuffle things around often. Others like to think a lot over acquisitions and keep every watch they buy. Some have a theme, some just buy what they like. For some it works, for others it doesn't.

It's a way too broad question and you have to find your way. Sure the forum helps to get inspiration and form opinions but in the end everybody is different.

You have a several nice timepieces. I am not sure I see a theme but that does not mean anything. If you feel you want to give it a strong connotation you can start trading etc. etc.

[Baco Noir]

It needs to fit your needs and budget - period. As money comes and goes, it can and should adjust. I personally try to go for a variety of form, function and brands, but many others are brand or function Idiver for example) specific. Do what makes you happy.