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16 January 2015, 04:27 PM | #1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Real Name: Stephen
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Watch: Speedy Pro, BLNR
Posts: 79
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Has anyone rigorously investigated price trends on TRF?
For better or worse, my training as an economist always finds a way to play a role in my hobbies. I was looking through the older classified postings today to see what a 16710 Pepsi (D serial) sold for in 2007/2008 compared to today and was wondering if anyone else make a habit of this. The appreciation (inflation adjusted) was pretty significant so I decided to do the same thing for a 16610 (M serial) and noticed the return was much less significant. I was thinking about spending a few nights tracking the 16610s and 16710s for the past couple of years to see how these things have been trending. Before I proceed, I was wondering how much interest there would be in this. Of course, I would only be able to base this off the final asking price and not the actual sales price as those are not listed, but I think it could still be a fun/informative way to learn more about these pieces. As a new member, I also think this is one way I could contribute to the wealth of knowledge that already exists. Any thoughts?
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16 January 2015, 09:53 PM | #2 |
TRF Moderator & 2024 DATE-JUST41 Patron
Join Date: Jul 2013
Real Name: Adam
Location: Hong Kong
Watch: SEIKO
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I think it's a great idea, and I'm sure many members would be very interested in your findings. Although this thread would get more attention in the Open Discussion forum, so you might post there when you're ready.
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16 January 2015, 10:01 PM | #3 |
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I also think it's a great idea. I would be very interested to see your findings too.
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16 January 2015, 10:13 PM | #4 |
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I'd pick a more interesting, older serial... think 1680/5512/5513. I'd stay within a particular age range
to keep the sample valid. There are some awesome comments from years ago about people "not being able to get rid of these..." |
17 January 2015, 12:33 AM | #5 |
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Real Name: Jason
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17 January 2015, 03:38 AM | #6 |
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Real Name: Tony
Location: Boston North
Watch: Meteorite Daytona
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Also curious but suggest you try and stick to apples to apples as much as possible, ie skip watches without box and papers and only use data from watches in good/great condition.
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17 January 2015, 04:44 AM | #7 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Real Name: Stephen
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Watch: Speedy Pro, BLNR
Posts: 79
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That is the plan since this first attempt will simply be comparing the ask price. If I decide this is a fruitful endeavor, I will be able to include most of the watches and account for no box/paper, condition, etc. I'm interested in knowing what the box and papers are worth after holding constant age and condition.
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17 January 2015, 04:47 AM | #8 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Real Name: Stephen
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Watch: Speedy Pro, BLNR
Posts: 79
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I agree 100%. was browsing the discussion forms and must have opened the window for the who's who before posting. Rookie mistake.
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28 February 2015, 01:57 PM | #9 |
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Location: www.watchpics.org
Watch: SubC date, BLNR
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great idea.
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28 February 2015, 02:09 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NC
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I like the idea but as I am sure you are well aware the variables can be a problem getting any accurate data. You will have to narrow it down to similar examples, condition, year, etc etc.
Ant the etc etc is what always gets you |
1 March 2015, 04:24 AM | #11 |
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Real Name: Dan
Location: Orlando/NSB, FL
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I'll play the pessimist here and say it's next to impossible to do accurately. With so many sellers coming from different lanes of proximity to actual wholesale pricing of watches and by not knowing the final sale price your fighting an uphill battle. For example take 3 watches for sale from 3 different sellers (Watch A, Watch B, Watch C)
Watch A is priced at 1,000 and comes from seller that gets close to wholesale. Watch B is priced at 1,700 and comes from seller that purchases from Watch A seller. Watch C is priced at 2,300 and comes from seller that purchased at retail and "feels" the watch is worth 2,300. Now logically in this scenario you would have to assume the model is the exact serial, condition, etc. etc. which in of itself is hard to come across. But assuming it's the case for this example. You would perceive value of the watch would be the median of all 3 when in all actuality Watch A would be closer to the actual value of the watch with Watch B being slightly higher and Watch C being a proverbial line in the water waiting. Now how do you find out that Watch B seller actually sold the watch for 1,200 instead of asking price? Or that Watch C wasn't pulled because seller realized the price was too high and it wasn't moving? You will have more than your fair share of investigating. Since you like to do this sort of thing, you will have fun doing it.
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1 March 2015, 04:27 AM | #12 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Real Name: Dan
Location: Orlando/NSB, FL
Watch: 16710 (3186)
Posts: 1,629
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To me that would make it worse...with vintage your gonna have to compare polish/unpolished, Patina (no two are the same), and watch history.
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