2024 teasers and new releases for other watches at Watches & Wonders

[Ichiran]

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Classic (40mm!)

https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/kon...r-classic.html

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Functions: Hours, minutes, and moon phase
Limited edition: No, but no more that 100 pieces will be produces each year
Price: CHF16,900

[PT_91]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Classic (40mm!)

https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/kon...r-classic.html

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Functions: Hours, minutes, and moon phase
Limited edition: No, but no more that 100 pieces will be produces each year
Price: CHF16,900

Due to the characteristic design these watches always seem so repetitive...

[Mighty_Kraken]

.

[Timo_]

I was at their booth at W&W on opening day and got hands on with several of their novelties and also higher end pieces. The skeleton streamliner tourbillon was just out of this world. The intricate movement and the finishing left me in awe - an absolute stunner! At that price point there simply is not much competition and the craftsmanship is fantastic. Big up!

[mailman]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

https://monochrome-watches.com/intro...s-specs-price/

The new manual-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 391 combines technical sophistication with beautiful finishings. Built from the ground up, it is a fully integrated mono-pusher chronograph with moon phases, night and day indications, two power reserve indicators, and the flying 1/6th of a second display. 

42.5mm diameter x 14.2mm thickness - pink gold or platinum
EUR 79,000 pink gold
EUR 97,000 platinum

That’s a show stopper. Beautiful watch.

[walds11]

Originally Posted by mailman

That’s a show stopper. Beautiful watch.

Likewise, but out of my league.

[FrugalGreubel]

Originally Posted by Timo_

I was at their booth at W&W on opening day and got hands on with several of their novelties and also higher end pieces. The skeleton streamliner tourbillon was just out of this world. The intricate movement and the finishing left me in awe - an absolute stunner! At that price point there simply is not much competition and the craftsmanship is fantastic. Big up!

Thanks for the photos and your hands on impressions. I know you already answered this but was the finishing really that good? I’m a Moser fan but usually their watches leave a lot to be desired when it comes to that aspect.

[Ichiran]

Speake Marin Ripples Dune Date Edition

https://monochrome-watches.com/first...s-specs-price/

40.3mm diameter x 9.2mm height - stainless steel
Limited to 60 pieces
CHF 24,900

[Ichiran]

This watch has appeared somewhere in this thread but more details below. Love the size.

De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands...n-specs-price/

De Bethune’s DB28XS is the smallest model in the brand’s repertoire and joined the collection in 2023. Distilling the main elements of the iconic DB28 with its floating lugs, delta-shaped bridge, crown at noon and futuristic silhouette, the DB28xs has a more compact 38.7mm diameter coupled with an ultra-slim case height of 7.4mm. Exceptionally lightweight, just about everything on the DB28XS is made from grade 5 titanium, starting with the mirror-polished case and floating lugs. One of the most challenging aspects of creating the DB28XS was miniaturising the brand’s famous, patented floating lugs.

The dial is no less spectacular and reveals a wonderful wavy surface referred to as a ‘random guilloché pattern’ invented by De Bethune. Traversed by a series of undulating purple waves, the titanium dial comes alive with motion, texture and reliefs. The different-sized dots you can see on the dial are hand-applied spherical gold pins to recreate the reflection of stars in a purple sea or bubbles – take your pick. A raised, rounded, purple titanium chapter ring frames the scenery and hosts the transferred silvery Arabic hour numerals. Time is read with the custom-made and hand-polished openworked titanium hour and minute hands. 

38.7mm diameter x 7.4mm thickness - grade 5 purple titanium
Limited to 25 pieces
CHF 90,000
USD 99,000

[tigerpac]

Originally Posted by Nav01L

Does it though?

I mean candidly and with no ill will, I didn’t know Mr Cukrowicz personally. But aside from that one picture they unearthed of him wearing a wild colored jacket, what does any of the press release rehashes that were published on this watch tell us to explain how that particular cliché of modern luxury watch marketing and production is related to his character or who he was as a person?

All I know about him is that he was very dedicated in building the FPJourne brand, which he certainly deserves credit for. But that achievement in classical and conservative watchmaking isn’t a particularly rainbow inspiring story.

Perhaps you knew him or can otherwise shed some more light on how this is more than just a touching story attached to a watch with a commercially really « opportune » theme. I would genuinely like to learn more. But it’s not for the lack of reading what was out there.

He was a big personality and often very brightly dressed. Something in his honor would be bright and attention grabbing. I'll post an interview below if you'd genuinely like to learn more about him.

FP chose to use colored ceramic stones to keep the price down so I would disagree with your conclusion of it being a cash grab.

https://thejourneguy.com/in-conversa...ino-cukrowicz/

[Timo_]

Originally Posted by FrugalGreubel

Thanks for the photos and your hands on impressions. I know you already answered this but was the finishing really that good? I’m a Moser fan but usually their watches leave a lot to be desired when it comes to that aspect.

I got to visit their factory a couple of years ago which greatly helped to form my opinion on the brand itself. The way I perceive it is that they heavily focus on the core of horology itself: the movements. Given their heritage and also since they are supplying parts to the industry, that‘s where they shine for me. From a mechanical point of view as far as my humble judgement goes, they are sublime indeed. The flying tourbillon sitting at 6 o‘clock inside the skeletonized HMC814 movement is a showstopper and as far I could tell the finishing of the inner workings was great, keeping in mind that I never saw it in daylight.

Narrowing it down and coming back to your question if I understood it correctly: The finishing on the case and the bracelet is solid but certainly not the pinnacle of the watch world.

What is your take on Moser generally and do you happen to own any of their watches?

What I love is that with a watch like this from an indy brand that is not very well known, one flies under the radar with a stellar horological ufo on the wrist.

[FrugalGreubel]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

This watch has appeared somewhere in this thread but more details below. Love the size.

De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain

https://monochrome-watches.com/hands...n-specs-price/

De Bethune’s DB28XS is the smallest model in the brand’s repertoire and joined the collection in 2023. Distilling the main elements of the iconic DB28 with its floating lugs, delta-shaped bridge, crown at noon and futuristic silhouette, the DB28xs has a more compact 38.7mm diameter coupled with an ultra-slim case height of 7.4mm. Exceptionally lightweight, just about everything on the DB28XS is made from grade 5 titanium, starting with the mirror-polished case and floating lugs. One of the most challenging aspects of creating the DB28XS was miniaturising the brand’s famous, patented floating lugs.

The dial is no less spectacular and reveals a wonderful wavy surface referred to as a ‘random guilloché pattern’ invented by De Bethune. Traversed by a series of undulating purple waves, the titanium dial comes alive with motion, texture and reliefs. The different-sized dots you can see on the dial are hand-applied spherical gold pins to recreate the reflection of stars in a purple sea or bubbles – take your pick. A raised, rounded, purple titanium chapter ring frames the scenery and hosts the transferred silvery Arabic hour numerals. Time is read with the custom-made and hand-polished openworked titanium hour and minute hands. 

38.7mm diameter x 7.4mm thickness - grade 5 purple titanium
Limited to 25 pieces
CHF 90,000
USD 99,000

I know I’m a broken record but I love this watch. It’s my favorite release of W&W. I really wish this wasn’t limited to 25 pieces because I’d truly love to own this. Just a stellar release and exactly what I love about De Bethune.

[FrugalGreubel]

Originally Posted by Timo_

I got to visit their factory a couple of years ago which greatly helped to form my opinion on the brand itself. The way I perceive it is that they heavily focus on the core of horology itself: the movements. Given their heritage and also since they are supplying parts to the industry, that‘s where they shine for me. From a mechanical point of view as far as my humble judgement goes, they are sublime indeed. The flying tourbillon sitting at 6 o‘clock inside the skeletonized HMC814 movement is a showstopper and as far I could tell the finishing of the inner workings was great, keeping in mind that I never saw it in daylight.

Narrowing it down and coming back to your question if I understood it correctly: The finishing on the case and the bracelet is solid but certainly not the pinnacle of the watch world.

What is your take on Moser generally and do you happen to own any of their watches?

What I love is that with a watch like this from an indy brand that is not very well known, one flies under the radar with a stellar horological ufo on the wrist.

Thanks for the reply. You answered my question perfectly and added some great details. I really appreciate your perspective.

I don’t own any Mosers but I would like to. I really enjoy the Endeavour Concept Centre Seconds and the Streamliner models but it’s been a combination of bad timing with funds / not the right watch being made yet. I really enjoy the brand but I would like if they upped the finishing a little even if it meant a higher price point.

[Nav01L]

Originally Posted by tigerpac

He was a big personality and often very brightly dressed. Something in his honor would be bright and attention grabbing. I'll post an interview below if you'd genuinely like to learn more about him.

FP chose to use colored ceramic stones to keep the price down so I would disagree with your conclusion of it being a cash grab.

https://thejourneguy.com/in-conversa...ino-cukrowicz/

Thank you for the link my friend, was great learning about him. I have my reasons to be a bit cynical with FPJ, especially when it comes to the Elegante, but in this instance, it may really have been a matter of me lacking the details.

[smalleq]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

Isn't it just Cartier's own movement?

It's based on a Sellita SW330 apparently, I guess with a custom module?

[Ichiran]

Speake-Marin Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet

https://monochrome-watches.com/intro...cs-price-pics/

38mm or 42mm diameter x 12.35mm thick – Piccadilly design – grade 5 titanium case
Dial: multi-layer satin-finished and rhodium-plated openworked dial – grid with positive ultra-violet PVD coating – micro beaded bevelled edges – rhodium-plated micro beaded pockets – luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow - black mainplate with circular graining, bridges with bead-blasted surfaces - 60-sec flying tourbillon at 1:30 with topping tool cage - power reserve indicator at 7:30 – engraved barrel and tungsten micro-rotor
42mm limited to 5 pieces, 38mm limited to 4 pieces
38mm - CHF 79,500
42mm - CHF 79,900

[charger_vital]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

Speake Marin Ripples Dune Date Edition

https://monochrome-watches.com/first...s-specs-price/

40.3mm diameter x 9.2mm height - stainless steel
Limited to 60 pieces
CHF 24,900

Nice looking piece. Better in person

[enjoythemusic]

David Candaux new DC1 titanium watch. Its unique features include an asymmetrical case resembling a bassinée and a retractable “Magic Crown” at 6 o’clock.

The DC1 collection introduced several groundbreaking elements, such as an all-titanium movement requiring novel manufacturing techniques and a 30-degree inclined tourbillon for enhanced precision.

The latest addition to the collection, presented in April 2024 in Geneva, is crafted from titanium, embodying the brand’s commitment to simplicity, ergonomics, and wearer comfort. This timepiece serves as a tribute to David Candaux’s father, a master of complications, and to his mentor, Philippe Dufour, in the esteemed AHCI.

_n2.jpg

[enjoythemusic]

Khemea is a new independent watch brand, and its first watch, Arkhea, is the brand's masterpiece. This watch is the crystallization of years of painstaking efforts of the founder of the brand - Shona Taine. It has been designed, polished and produced many times, and finally presented to us.

The brand name Khemea comes from "alchemy" in ancient Greek, which is the brand founder's understanding of watches: it is the product of the fusion of talents, technologies and elements from many aspects, just as the alchemists combined various Just as materials come together to create treasures, Khemea's watch is also a precious treasure.


Tourbillon, moon phases, poetic date, and power reserve on the movement side of the back of the watch

POWER RESERVE
100 Hours with a single barrel

FREQUENCY
21600 vib/h or 3Hz


_n2.jpg

_n3.jpg

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Khemea is a new independent watch brand, and its first watch, Arkhea, is the brand's masterpiece. This watch is the crystallization of years of painstaking efforts of the founder of the brand - Shona Taine. It has been designed, polished and produced many times, and finally presented to us.

The brand name Khemea comes from "alchemy" in ancient Greek, which is the brand founder's understanding of watches: it is the product of the fusion of talents, technologies and elements from many aspects, just as the alchemists combined various Just as materials come together to create treasures, Khemea's watch is also a precious treasure.


Tourbillon, moon phases, poetic date, and power reserve on the movement side of the back of the watch

POWER RESERVE
100 Hours with a single barrel

FREQUENCY
21600 vib/h or 3Hz


Attachment 1430076

Attachment 1430077

I really like the aesthetic of this watch, but the asking price a year or so ago when I asked was kind of nuts given the lack of track record.

[Ichiran]

Vianney Halter Art Deco Metropolis

https://www.vianney-halter.com/wp-co...Metropolis.pdf

"The Art Deco Metropolis stands as a legacy from the Classic, to which I made some deep transformations. Its Modern Streamline case and dial boast a tri-dimensional architecture. The lug bases became rectangular geometric ornaments. Massive gold rivets and crown reminds one of the Belgian type 12 locomotives, the epitome of futuristic speed. The sapphire is heavily beveled – a shape that is typical from the 1920’s – enabling the possibility to slim down the case. This configuration allows us to fully appreciate the details and volumes of the 3-part dial, for which each material texture has been worked for enhanced contrast, depth and light. The titanium center is hand engraved, to contrast with the diamond cut radiating solid gold rays. The Art Deco font is applied to the blued circle-brushed titanium ring with railway indices on the outer rim that expand thanks to the sapphire window geometry. Alternating textures on the dial create a shimmer, underscored by brushed and polished steel geometric hands.

The VH122 automatic caliber is entirely decorated using traditional methods and is made of Maillechort (also called german silver), the same material used to make quality pocket watches. This metal permits a finer finishing than brass. It oxidizes very little and needs no surface coating. If needed, decorations can be redone and the beauty of the caliber will be kept during many decades of servicing."

39.8mm diameter, 8.2mm thickness (11.85mm with glass)
Titanium and 18Kt gold rivets
CHF 79,000

[Ichiran]

Not a W&W release but please bear with me.

https://hypebeast.com/2024/4/massena...acs-russo-info

In Association and Bacs & Russo, Phillips has unveiled a very special 1952 Observatory Dial watch, a limited-edition crafted in collaboration with Massena LAB and independent watchmaker, Raúl Pagès — the winner of the first LVMH Watch Prize.

Drawing inspiration from the Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458, the timepiece showcases a platinum dial that is imbued with historic references and modern codes. Measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness, the watch case comes in a stainless steel build.

Massena LAB’s proprietary manual-winding movement, the M690, can be observed through the watch’s open sapphire crystal caseback. In spotlighting the alluringly understated yet radiant appeal of the 1952 Observatory Dial limited edition, the wristwatch is paired with a taupe leather strap.

Limited to 99 examples, this special edition has a price tag of 8,000 CHF (around $8,762 USD) and will be available for purchase via Phillips exclusively.

[Ichiran]

MB&F HM8 Mark 2

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/n...ndf-78116.html

[FrugalGreubel]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

MB&F HM8 Mark 2

https://en.worldtempus.com/article/n...ndf-78116.html

Oooh I like this one a lot. Wish I was in the market for an MB&F right now but still a few years away from hopefully making that happen.

Thanks for sharing!

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by FrugalGreubel

Oooh I like this one a lot. Wish I was in the market for an MB&F right now but still a few years away from hopefully making that happen.

I looked through again these 4 pages of new releases, and I think last year's W&W was way better. The 2941, SBCA and FFC were 2023's crop and they are beyond delightful (at least for me). The 2941 and SBCA in particular made me love watches like a child all over again.

[FrugalGreubel]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

I looked through again these 4 pages of new releases, and I think last year's W&W was way better. The 2941, SBCA and FFC were 2023's crop and they are beyond delightful (at least for me). The 2941 and SBCA in particular made me love watches like a child all over again.

I absolutely agree with you. W&W 2024 felt very lackluster compared to 2023. The only release that really got me excited this year was the De Bethune Purple Rain.

[llngoc]

No one mentioned the 20th anniversary Voutilainen Tourbillion?