Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast
I haven't read your review, but for me the dial layout really kills this watch. Why have the 15-minute alarm markers where the minute markers normally go, and why put the minute markers on the smaller inner circle where they are partially obscured by the minute hand?
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Yes I do address this in the review and I know it does bother some people.
The short answer is that Tudor were honouring the original Advisor reference 7926 while also elevating the main focus of the watch - ease of setting the alarm.
As you can see on this picture the vintage piece has a strong resemblance to the Heritage Advisor and had an inner minute track (this doubles as 12 min markers)
An extract from the review on this issue:
The twin track design, with hours and not minutes on the outer chapter ring, requires a paradigm shift and takes a little getting used to (most people assume the outer track is for minutes or seconds). However, the more you use the watch, the more this choice makes sense. Because it is a mechanical alarm it is not accurate to the second or even to the minute, the extra resolution of a wider outer track helps set the alarm more precisely. When I first noticed this, I thought that Tudor should have put the minutes on the outer track and the 15 minute markers on the inner; however, having used it regularly I now appreciate the clever design that both retains the vintage elements and adds new functionality in a consistent way that serves the purpose of the watch and adds to its unique character. The design prioritises the ability to tell the time and read the watch accurately while also elevating the functionality of the alarm complication. The outer track also has a slope to it which enhances the sense of depth and acts like a rehaut.
I also touch on it in the what would I change section:
One functional constraint, as a consequence of the introduction of the large date subdial (which intersects a portion the inner minute track), is that you cannot read the inner minute track precisely between 23 and 37 past the hour. This does not impact on the ability to set the alarm (where you use the outer track) but it does mean that should you wish to hack the second hand and set the time between 23 and 37 past the hour, it is less easy to be precise and you have to use the 5 minute markers during this period. Another, possibly petty point, is that the alarm hand is not lumed, which would be useful when checking the watch at night or in dark environments.