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Old 28 August 2014, 09:02 PM   #156
ezinhk
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: hk
Posts: 691
Here you go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by benlee View Post
Patek 5208P Triple Complication Grand Complication


The final piece that I will show here, is also Patek’s 2nd most complicated timepiece ever made. A piece so complicated to make and so rare, that they are almost never seen in any public setting until now at the Patek Geneva Salon. Even so, I had my reservations which I did not sound out that this is not a full fledge piece but a working prototype. Anyway, here you go, the watch that makes all PP Collectors drool, the ultimate grail watch, Patek Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Minute Repeater reference 5208P in platinum.




According to Mdm Marielle, the watch for security reasons had been “protected” by the watch maker to prevent any accidental adjustments that might damage to the movement so I can’t actually tried out the chronograph or test out the minute repeater. Quite a shame actually but I can understand the necessity for this course of action considering that this is a million dollar timepiece. However, I do get to see and try out the watch on the wrist and also peek at the gorgeously decorated movement.





The watch housed the ultra complicated Calibre R CH 27 PS QI ( even the naming sounds complicated ). It’s an automatic movement with minute repeater, single pushbutton chronograph and most impressively, a perpetual calendar with instantaneous display in three window apertures. What it means is that when the watch changes the date from say Monday August the 31st to Tuesday September the 1st, all three digits in the aperture display will jump instantaneously. Do take note that in a mechanical watch, any “instantaneous” movement is very hard to achieve because it means it will require the watch movement to be smart enough to calculate and store the energy necessary for this feat and to release them at the exact right moment.

Heres a picture of the movement. You can see the gongs of the minute repeater on the top right hand corner if you look closely.





As can be anticipated, adding a chronograph movement to a minute repeater does introduce added complication in the process and as a result, Patek, which usually goes for slimmer design whenever possible, saw the need to house this movement in a thicker case that’s 42mm wide and 15.7mm thick.




The case, while "chunky" looking due to it's thickness, is nevertheless very very well made. The perfectly polished platinum case is beautifully hand-crafted with smooth flowing seductive lines to lure the senses. It’s like caressing the body of a Supercar, only just more intimate and fullfilling. Even for a Grand Complication such as the 5208P, Patek still insist on keeping the dial neat and clean and legible with no extra gimmicks and I have to say they did a superb job. The sun-burst treatment of the dial gives off an elegant look.





Still, I had some reservations about the thickness. A 42mm case with a 15.7mm case thickness just doesn't sound proportional. Putting it on the wrist, the thickness is much more pronounced and no doubt it’s a power house of a watch that simply commands attention.

However, here is where personal discretion and taste come in for to me. I can’t help but say that the 5074R, while lacking the chronograph complication and lacks some of the bells and whistles of the 5208P, is nevertheless to me at least a much more beautiful piece compared to the 5208P. Shocking, as this conclusion might be to some, I actually think in this case, the law of diminishing returns applies. I think we are still several years or maybe a generation away yet before any brand can produce a perfectly wearable and well proportioned Super grand complication watch. Sure there are even more sophisticated Grand Complication watches from Lange and Vacheron that managed to squeeze in every imaginable complication out there, split second chrono, celestial map, minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and more but at the expenses of a watch case that stretches credulity at 48mm or even 50mm or larger.

So is the 5208P worth a million quid that it’s astronomical price command? That’s subjective and depend on the individual buyer. I supposed Patek will only make this watch available to their most selected and treasured clients. Worth is or not, beautiful or not, it’s nevertheless remains a technical tour de force statement from Patek and a testimony of the brand's formidable watch-making skills that cements it's position as the pinnacle leader in the world of horology.

You might also want to view this youtube view which offers a bit more functionality display of the 5208P then what I can demonstrate here.






Sneak peek at The Patek Skymoon Tourbillon 6002


The Patek Skymoon Tourbillon is the most complicated timepiece Patek has produced till date. Not only the movement but the exquisitively hand crafted case that is a sheer work of art in it’s own right. The 6002 movement houses a minute repeater with two cathedral gongs and a tourbillon. The front dial indicates both the standard time and feature a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date and a moon-phase display. The rear dials set the stage for astronomical complication which shows a celestial map.

Here’s a picture of Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002 I saw inside a display case that comes with a special box.



No, I couldn’t actually take a more detailed picture nor handled it close-up because the watch was shielded in a glass display under lock and key. It was also running late and I have perhaps extended my welcome having occupying Mdm Marielle’s time for a good 3.5 hours.

I will very much like to refer you to this excellent article from Hodinkee if you wanted to know more about the Skymoon 6002.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/introdu...urbillon-6002g


It was finally time to say Good Bye. Madam Marielle, ever the gracious host extended her warm farewell to me and that's after she took me for a short tour of the building after I was finally done previewing the watches. I took with me a few souvenirs from the Salon as well as a VIP invitation card to visit the Patek Museum.





Thus my journey and visit had finally come to an end. It’s has been a most enjoyable and memorable experience for me since I started falling in love with watches. Granted most of the final few pieces are possibly out of my reach ever but I count myself fortunate to preview them first hand. I hope you have enjoy reading these series of write-ups from me just as much as I enjoyed writing them and sharing with you all.

Thank you and Au Revoir. Till next time.
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