[classicwatchparts]

Welcome back to Chapter 3, this chapter will cover the restoration of a rivet band.

Firstly I will have to say that rivets band made by Rolex in the 50s-60s is one of the toughest band out of the lot. They have been in service for 50-60 years and I have rarely seen some really broken bands in comparison to the weakest 2 tone Jubilee bands.
They might look flimsy but the construction is solid, but also makes it very difficult to restore.
In this chapter there is no machine that can help me out, only pure sweat.
Tools needed:
Hammer
Flat Pliers
2 round tip Pliers
Flat head Screwdriver

In picture 1 & 2 is the front and back of the band that I will restore the first link for demo purposes.
Pic 3 shows me trying to pry open the first link with the screwdriver. By slowing pushing in one side to slip the screwdriver underneath and then lifting it will do it, do not worry about bending or scratching it

Pic 4 &5 Shows the center link opened and removed. As you can see the construction of the link, basically there is 3 folded piece that bends over 2 rivets to form a single link . However usually it is the center piece that flattens out thereby add slack to the band. If we reshape the center metal piece, that will take care most of the job. The 2 rivets on the link is fixed so the only way is to unfold the center pieces.

Pic 6&7 shows the center metal piece being straighted. During the unfolding, there will be creases on the metal piece and by using a flat plier and some grip you will be able to flatten out the creases and dings. However do not completed unfold the link otherwise it will be more work latter

Pic 8 Shows a flattened out center link

Pic 9 is where it is most difficult to grasp, you really need to test it out many times to get it right. With the flattened out center link, you will need to bend it back with a curve so that when installed on the link it will not be completely flat. It does not matter if it is a little too curvy, since the hammering in the next steps will flatten out the link.

Pic 10 At this point we have to determine if simply reshaping the center link will take out the stretch, if not we shall add small pieces of metal as sleeves before we refit the link. For this band is is actually not so bad so a straight reshape is all that is needed.
Pic 11 With the curved link installed you will have to slowly push the two sides of the center link to a point the two end touches and this is very important otherwise the link will overlap when hammered. Next will be the hammering, by maintaining the 2 ends touching a hammer is used to flatten out the link until it is almost flat. Because the 2 ends are always touching you will see in Pic 12 a perfect first link.

Pic 13 & 14 shows the polishing with a nylon wheel to take out the tool marks and finally with a abrasive rubber bar, the final satin finish is applied.

Quite a lot of work for one link right? Technically the same process is applied to folded oyster links except the metal is thicker in folded oyster links and more sweat is needed to redo them.