Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum - View Single Post

krone · 30 November 2011, 02:40 AM

Like Rikki said adjust the beat first. While running, on the machine, the screw holds a plate that locks the stud. When the screw is loose the stud can be moved, it has some friction to it, and will not just come off. You are just adjusting where the roller jewel is in relation to the pallet by moving the end of the hairspring.

If you keep the tool horizontal with a steady hand you should be able to line the pin inside up with the lines.

I always allow for the flex of the balance, so you turn it and watch close and it will move a little and then you will feel the nut give, thats where you start counting the lines. I do this with a loupe.

On the larger nuts one tick is about one second on the 3135. The 2135 it is about 2 seconds. A quarter or even an eighth turn is a lot of seconds so counting the lines is important. Hack the movement and remember which nut you turned first, there are dots to help, always do opposites evenly.

Turn the balance so that you are not putting the tool on the side of the balance stud that the hairspring is attached to. If the roller hits the pallet and you can't turn it one way just go around the other direction.

If you did bump the hairspring, or the watch has been hit hard, that can effect the beat. You can gently stop the balance so that it is centered (let it tick as you stop it at mid point or take the power off), hack it then and look straight down at the hairspring. If it is off center you can very carefully touch it near the stud to center it. This can lead to a mess of correcting the corrections, so like many things sometimes less is more. If it is minor just adjusting the beat is enough. I use a clean black fine oiler to manipulate the balance, it has some spring to it so it is forgiving.

I use a 5x loupe mounted on glasses (if you go too high like 7x or 10x your focal length will be too short), 3c carbon tweezers, homemade movement holder. I sharpen/fix/fit all my screwdriver blades, tweezers, oilers, etc. Genuine Rolex opener fits between lugs on most models avoids the bezel problem.
My technique for hands is to hold the movement in the holder on its side against bench and pull hands from left to right, one at a time, without touching the dial at all, with anything. Hand puller is bergeon #1 without the center and with small notches I put in, to hold the hands, one small (grips second hand hub from the side doesn't pull up on the hand), one large(grips hubs of minute or hour hands).
For the crystal, microfiber cloth designed for glass or watchmaker tissue then an air blower. Sometimes if you fog it lightly with your breath then blow with compressed air, it helps take the static charge out of the dust.
Computer dusters can spray liquid that will leave a haze, they are safer when half empty. Best in bursts rather than steady blow.

For the date I turn the hands til it jumps, then put the hour hand on lightly so it does not touch the dial but is not tight. Turn hands slowly near the next jump and then adjust the hour hand to 12 exactly and set it fully.
Put on the minute hand lightly. Turn hands carefully near the 12, when it jumps I hold the crown so that I counteract the force of gently pushing the hand sideways to center on the 12. Then double check. Usually i can get it within half a minute, I like it to be before rather than after. Looking from the 6 across the dial with the loupe you can line up the second wheel (4th wheel) where the second hand goes with the center of the crown symbol on the dial by getting low and looking across. Using a plastic tipped hand setting tool for this that leaves no marks, can even do it with a hand setting press.

I like to put a very slight film of fomblin (not silicone) grease on the threads of the back of the case with a foam swab. If you loosen and tighten back a few times with the wrench they can grind a little or lock up, happens more with older watches. You can feel a difference hand tightening between dry threads and lubed.

Some of this is off topic, a few thoughts from a few of your treads.

30 November 2011, 02:40 AM	#59
krone "TRF" Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: us Posts: 12	Like Rikki said adjust the beat first. While running, on the machine, the screw holds a plate that locks the stud. When the screw is loose the stud can be moved, it has some friction to it, and will not just come off. You are just adjusting where the roller jewel is in relation to the pallet by moving the end of the hairspring. If you keep the tool horizontal with a steady hand you should be able to line the pin inside up with the lines. I always allow for the flex of the balance, so you turn it and watch close and it will move a little and then you will feel the nut give, thats where you start counting the lines. I do this with a loupe. On the larger nuts one tick is about one second on the 3135. The 2135 it is about 2 seconds. A quarter or even an eighth turn is a lot of seconds so counting the lines is important. Hack the movement and remember which nut you turned first, there are dots to help, always do opposites evenly. Turn the balance so that you are not putting the tool on the side of the balance stud that the hairspring is attached to. If the roller hits the pallet and you can't turn it one way just go around the other direction. If you did bump the hairspring, or the watch has been hit hard, that can effect the beat. You can gently stop the balance so that it is centered (let it tick as you stop it at mid point or take the power off), hack it then and look straight down at the hairspring. If it is off center you can very carefully touch it near the stud to center it. This can lead to a mess of correcting the corrections, so like many things sometimes less is more. If it is minor just adjusting the beat is enough. I use a clean black fine oiler to manipulate the balance, it has some spring to it so it is forgiving. I use a 5x loupe mounted on glasses (if you go too high like 7x or 10x your focal length will be too short), 3c carbon tweezers, homemade movement holder. I sharpen/fix/fit all my screwdriver blades, tweezers, oilers, etc. Genuine Rolex opener fits between lugs on most models avoids the bezel problem. My technique for hands is to hold the movement in the holder on its side against bench and pull hands from left to right, one at a time, without touching the dial at all, with anything. Hand puller is bergeon #1 without the center and with small notches I put in, to hold the hands, one small (grips second hand hub from the side doesn't pull up on the hand), one large(grips hubs of minute or hour hands). For the crystal, microfiber cloth designed for glass or watchmaker tissue then an air blower. Sometimes if you fog it lightly with your breath then blow with compressed air, it helps take the static charge out of the dust. Computer dusters can spray liquid that will leave a haze, they are safer when half empty. Best in bursts rather than steady blow. For the date I turn the hands til it jumps, then put the hour hand on lightly so it does not touch the dial but is not tight. Turn hands slowly near the next jump and then adjust the hour hand to 12 exactly and set it fully. Put on the minute hand lightly. Turn hands carefully near the 12, when it jumps I hold the crown so that I counteract the force of gently pushing the hand sideways to center on the 12. Then double check. Usually i can get it within half a minute, I like it to be before rather than after. Looking from the 6 across the dial with the loupe you can line up the second wheel (4th wheel) where the second hand goes with the center of the crown symbol on the dial by getting low and looking across. Using a plastic tipped hand setting tool for this that leaves no marks, can even do it with a hand setting press. I like to put a very slight film of fomblin (not silicone) grease on the threads of the back of the case with a foam swab. If you loosen and tighten back a few times with the wrench they can grind a little or lock up, happens more with older watches. You can feel a difference hand tightening between dry threads and lubed. Some of this is off topic, a few thoughts from a few of your treads.