[Tbonewalk]

I wrote this back in June, 2016...

In name only…
It’s a fabulous, classy watch, arguably the most ideal and perfect watch a man can own, in fact, some reviewers describe it as such.

Firstly, it’s a Rolex. That means status and quality. It means more than that though. It means history, past, present and future. They know what they’re doing and make a great watch, on so many levels.

The size, shape and proportion of the Explorer are great. 39mm is described by some experts as the perfect size. If you’re young and very trendy though, the Explorer may not be big enough. If you’re mature in age or in taste, this will be an excellent size for you.

Rolex’s appeal and at the same time drawback may be their commitment to tradition. They are sometimes criticized as too old and stuffy. "Austere".

Rolex has been criticized, and I think justly, for changing the shape of their cases. These newer ones are a bit more “blocky” and less tapered in appearance. In a way, it makes the watch “wear” somewhat larger. But that’s the way it is. Lug holes are also a thing of the past, a very cool thing to some. Four tiny holes that in some way provide a historical link.

The “short minutes hand” has been mentioned in every review I have seen. I don’t know if someone started this and others chimed in or if all the experts simultaneously found the minutes hand noticeably short, disproportional and off putting. Yet all reviewers pretty much discard this as a minor criticism. I don’t think I would notice this in any way if I had not read the reviews. But I did and I do. It was said that Rolex used the hands from the smaller Explorer, the 36mm. How could they have done this- Rolex being stingy? How could they have missed this, and on a $6500 watch no less!

One thing struck me and disappointed me when viewing the Explorer. The classy, shiny 3, 6 and 9 gold numerals with no lume sort of contradict any notion of “exploring” with this watch. This is not the fault though of the Explorer 39mm; the 14270, 36mm, unveiled in 1989 ushered in this change. Though I knew this coming in, the impact was stronger viewing the watch in person. There has been no link to the history and roots of this as a tool watch for some time now. It is extremely handsome, though not very ruggedly so. That’s not a bad thing!

Maybe it is somewhat rugged. There is alot of steel here. No color. All black and white, quiet and icy cold. Not very shiny except for the “3”, “6” and “9’; they look almost out of place.

The Oysterlock bracelet is unbelievably well made and comfortable. It has a cool little extension of a half link that snaps in and out, should you need it for a roomier or more precise fit. In fact, the dealer revealed the cost of the bracelet is $1200 should you need one… so it better be good!

The bracelet is brushed except for the sides, in fact, the brushed look dominates the watch, perhaps reminding us or suggesting the Explorer’s rugged roots. The Bezel is polished though, again, a dressy tool watch.

The Explorer 214270, 39mm has been replaced; the new one is in the new Rolex catalog and will be available soon. Same reference number, 214270 but with longer and beefier hands! A different and brighter blue lume too, all the way around and on the numerals now. Price is the same. Some describe this as Rolex admitting a mistake and correcting it.

This upset me in a way. I read alot about watches. How could I have missed this about a “new” edition Explorer? The new one seems perhaps more what I was looking for. Is our Explorer now less desirable; I doubt it, Rolex is always expensive, used ones fetch plenty. Yet something struck me odd about the price remaining the same. And I read what I feel was an astute comment from a reader, that the numerals on ours are 18k gold, more expensive than the new, lume surrounded by gold ones.

I was hot for this watch. I, like alot of us, wanted a tool type watch. I was disappointed with the Tudor North Flag and Ranger; too big and blocky. The Omega Railmaster in 39mm is gone. Some others are nice, but but not a Rolex. So I pretty well knew going in that I was coming home with this watch.

It is gorgeous, a fantastic size, proportion, height and weight that sits beautifully on the wrist or forearm. The new and improved engine will keep precise time, if that’s what you wear a watch for. But exploring? Not unless there is a board of directors meeting on Mount Everest! This is a luxury watch. A dress watch. Not to say it is out of place peeking out of a flannel shirt in the winter or on the arm in a short sleeve or tee at a summer barbecue or picnic.

It is very understated. It is sheer class and confidence while not bragging or begging for attention, not screaming “look at me!”. At $6500, I was not so sure of how comfortable I was with that. I waited a few weeks before composing this review, and now have grown very comfortable with it.