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RUK · 1 June 2016, 06:17 AM

Current collection is this -

Thinking about trading in my Reverso 976 and IWC Portuguese chrono for a dress watch/ Precious metal watch. I've always like the the PP 5196, but cant really make up my mind. Also still flirting with Lange, AP and VC. Would there be a chance of a new Calatrava line in 2017 with new movements? What would you get?

The options in order of preference are

PP 5196 J/G/R/P
PP 5205R
PP 5296 the clean dial
PP 5227 white dial
VC Patrimony Traditionnelle

PP thanks for voting and giving me some ideas!

Hollister · 1 June 2016, 06:28 AM

Read this before you choose. I don't have a horse in this race, but I really like the VC and the FPJ.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...al-dress-watch

P.S. your current collection is very nice IMO.

texex91 · 1 June 2016, 06:32 AM

Any Patek on your list would make a nice edition.

RUK · 1 June 2016, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hollister

Read this before you choose.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...al-dress-watch

Ah that post got this all started a long time ago. All three are superb. the FPJ is nice but I want to be sure that it can be serviced and fixed for many generations, so I don't want to commit to FPJ. The Lange and VC are really nice! Value retention the the Lange and VC won't be as good as the PP unfortunately.

el1125 · 1 June 2016, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

Ah that post got this all started a long time ago. All three are superb. the FPJ is nice but I want to be sure that it can be serviced and fixed for many generations, so I don't want to commit to FPJ. The Lange and VC are really nice! Value retention the the Lange and VC won't be as good as the PP unfortunately.

agreed

rebel_1 · 1 June 2016, 06:53 AM

5227 hands down.

Hollister · 1 June 2016, 06:55 AM

In defence of the FPJ, I agree that servicing will be expensive, but hey, it's only money. I think the brand will probably survive him, but who knows. Good point.

el1125 · 1 June 2016, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el1125

agreed

5205r

nyc2la · 1 June 2016, 06:58 AM

5196P ... I love P, and I love the applied Breguet numbers. Simple and elegant.

JJ WA · 1 June 2016, 07:23 AM

It seems that the 5205 is a bit out of the range for being considered a "three handed dress watch" - it is actually a complicated watch. I would certainly pick the 5205 over the others listed here. For simple, really 'three handed dress watches', I would go with either FPJ CS PT or Lange 1815 WG. I like PP 5196 G/P as well, but its power reserve is low (less than 48 hours) and has got me away from it so far.

RUK · 1 June 2016, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJ WA

It seems that the 5205 is a bit out of the range for being considered a "three handed dress watch" - it is actually a complicated watch. I would certainly pick the 5205 over the others listed here. For simple, really 'three handed dress watches', I would go with either FPJ CS PT or Lange 1815 WG. I like PP 5196 G/P as well, but its power reserve is low (less than 48 hours) and has got me away from it so far.

Yeah this was the odd one out.. only the 5205 keeps coming back to my mind despite deciding that I want a simple dress watch - therefore it made it to the poll :) I don't mind the Power reserve as I wind the watch daily if I wear it and if not I don't mind it running out of power as I would rotate one in 4/5.

JJ WA · 1 June 2016, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

Yeah this was the odd one out.. only the 5205 keeps coming back to my mind despite deciding that I want a simple dress watch - therefore it made it to the poll :) I don't mind the Power reserve as I wind the watch daily if I wear it and if not I don't mind it running out of power as I would rotate one in 4/5.

In this case, to me, it would be a matter of budget. If you'd consider 38K (which is less than a 5205 would cost anyway), I would certainly go with the platinum FPJ CS. Want to spend a dozen K or so less? Lange 1815 WG is the answer. If you want to go with an even lower budget, I would pick the 5196G. The 5196P is super nice, but in my opinion it is too expensive for its size (both the case's and the movement's) and low power reserve. If I were in your position, I'd probably settle with that Lange. Good luck deciding and dont forget to post pictures when you buy the new watch

Tony64 · 1 June 2016, 08:04 AM

How about this?

Tony64 · 1 June 2016, 08:08 AM

Sorry, don't have any macro views... But I think it's pretty nice.

Samui · 1 June 2016, 08:09 AM

I would either get the 5205r or the VC 87172J the best two options you have there. Get the VC if you want a cleaner dial.

Tony64 · 1 June 2016, 08:15 AM

From your list I pick this....

RUK · 1 June 2016, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJ WA

In this case, to me, it would be a matter of budget. If you'd consider 38K (which is less than a 5205 would cost anyway), I would certainly go with the platinum FPJ CS. Want to spend a dozen K or so less? Lange 1815 WG is the answer. If you want to go with an even lower budget, I would pick the 5196G. The 5196P is super nice, but in my opinion it is too expensive for its size (both the case's and the movement's) and low power reserve. If I were in your position, I'd probably settle with that Lange. Good luck deciding and dont forget to post pictures when you buy the new watch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony64

Sorry, don't have any macro views... But I think it's pretty nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony64

How about this?

nice ideas! thanks! Will do an incoming as soon as I order/get it

lwcnv · 1 June 2016, 08:23 AM

Had the 5227R, but it was missing something, the dial was too plain in the lower half, it looked out of place and empty. it was a very comfortable watch. I went with a 5396R. Between the ones you have listed I like the 5196R

YoureTerrific · 1 June 2016, 08:40 AM

5196G. 37mm, no date, manually wound. Perfect.

PJ S · 1 June 2016, 09:12 AM

Hollister · 1 June 2016, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony64

From your list I pick this....

Vote for it, then. It's the one I voted for, and so far 1 vote.

Tony64 · 1 June 2016, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hollister

Vote for it, then. It's the one I voted for, and so far 1 vote.

RUK · 1 June 2016, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJ S

Loving the Jaquet-Droz! The PF was nice too. Will have to try on a Jaquet-Droz when I can.
GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME SILVER wow!

PJ S · 1 June 2016, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

Loving the Jaquet-Droz! The PF was nice too. Will have to try on a Jaquet-Droz when I can. ZOOMFRONT
GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME SILVER wow!

And don’t forget about Moser either – https://www.chrono24.co.uk/hmosercie...-id3438855.htm

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

ZOOMFRONT GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME SILVER wow!

Come again?
Did you mean the £4K-ish steel JD GS Quantieme with the vertical CdG striping on the dial?

RUK · 1 June 2016, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJ S

And don’t forget about Moser either – https://www.chrono24.co.uk/hmosercie...-id3438855.htm

Come again?
Did you mean the £4K-ish steel JD GS Quantieme with the vertical CdG striping on the dial?

sorry no saw a dual time on the website, like the design. I might go for something like the ones you are talking about as my next after the 3 handed. Right now I want to get the basics done. Looking more like a 5196 for now and then something from an lesser known/ independent next

incontrol · 1 June 2016, 09:53 AM

Would a 5711 in PM be considered a dress watch option or does the date window mess that up?

PJ S · 1 June 2016, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

sorry no saw a dual time on the website, like the design. I might go for something like the ones you are talking about as my next after the 3 handed. Right now I want to get the basics done. Looking more like a 5196 for now and then something from an lesser known/ independent next

Ah, I’m with you now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RUK

I might go for something like the ones you are talking about as my next after the 3 handed. Right now I want to get the basics done. Looking more like a 5196 for now and then something from an lesser known/ independent next

One last attempt to get you to see some sense!!

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/bulgari/o...-id4017267.htm

jon_jon · 1 June 2016, 10:10 AM

If you like the 5205, I would say go for it. Although it is an AC, it is definitely a dress watch, just not a simple 3 handed dress watch.

Amongst the three Calatravas, I think the 5296 has a clean dial that makes it a beautiful dress watch. The 5227 adds a more modern case design with an officer's caseback, but at a higher price. The dial color of the 5227 is not really white, but more of a cream color. As for the 5196, it reminds you of a vintage Calatrava with the seconds hand at the 6 o'clock position. It is the only Calatrava currently available in platinum. I own the 5227G and the 5196P - they are both nice for different reasons.

el1125 · 1 June 2016, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by incontrol

Would a 5711 in PM be considered a dress watch option or does the date window mess that up?

Some people can call it a dress watch, some a sports watch...no right or wrong answer. Whoever says otherwise would be lying. IMO, That's one of I
the great thing about the Nautius and 5711, looks good in a Tux and can ALSO take a beating!

ap1 · 1 June 2016, 12:01 PM

I'll plug this one of course, of your exact picks the VC. The way the light reflects off the minute markers is literally magic (5227)

View Poll Results: Options
PP 5196 J/G/R/P	26	25.24%
PP 5205R	15	14.56%
PP 5296 the clean dial	8	7.77%
PP 5227 white dial	29	28.16%
VC Patrimony Traditionnelle	13	12.62%
Other - Please specify	12	11.65%
Voters: 103. You may not vote on this poll

1 June 2016, 06:17 AM	#1
RUK "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Real Name: Ruk Location: .ie Watch: 5711,Sub,Daytona,P Posts: 1,232	Three handed dress watch options Current collection is this - Thinking about trading in my Reverso 976 and IWC Portuguese chrono for a dress watch/ Precious metal watch. I've always like the the PP 5196, but cant really make up my mind. Also still flirting with Lange, AP and VC. Would there be a chance of a new Calatrava line in 2017 with new movements? What would you get? The options in order of preference are PP 5196 J/G/R/P PP 5205R PP 5296 the clean dial PP 5227 white dial VC Patrimony Traditionnelle PP thanks for voting and giving me some ideas! __________________ 'The best watch out there is the one you like the most'

1 June 2016, 06:53 AM	#6
rebel_1 "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 2,132	5227 hands down. __________________ Official Member: 'Perpetual 30' Vegas International GTG 2016 Official Member "WIS-CON" Las Vegas International GTG 2017

1 June 2016, 06:58 AM	#9
nyc2la "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Real Name: Stephen Location: Beach Watch: 16660 Posts: 9,184	5196P ... I love P, and I love the applied Breguet numbers. Simple and elegant. __________________ "Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm." --- RWE

1 June 2016, 08:40 AM	#19
YoureTerrific "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: USA Posts: 128	5196G. 37mm, no date, manually wound. Perfect. __________________ Instragram: @YoureTerrific1

1 June 2016, 06:28 AM	#2
Hollister Banned Join Date: Apr 2016 Real Name: James Location: UK Watch: 114300 Posts: 1,750	Read this before you choose. I don't have a horse in this race, but I really like the VC and the FPJ. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...al-dress-watch P.S. your current collection is very nice IMO.

1 June 2016, 06:32 AM	#3
texex91 "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: . Posts: 17,898	Any Patek on your list would make a nice edition.

1 June 2016, 06:55 AM	#7
Hollister Banned Join Date: Apr 2016 Real Name: James Location: UK Watch: 114300 Posts: 1,750	In defence of the FPJ, I agree that servicing will be expensive, but hey, it's only money. I think the brand will probably survive him, but who knows. Good point.

1 June 2016, 07:23 AM	#10
JJ WA "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Seattle Posts: 787	It seems that the 5205 is a bit out of the range for being considered a "three handed dress watch" - it is actually a complicated watch. I would certainly pick the 5205 over the others listed here. For simple, really 'three handed dress watches', I would go with either FPJ CS PT or Lange 1815 WG. I like PP 5196 G/P as well, but its power reserve is low (less than 48 hours) and has got me away from it so far.

1 June 2016, 08:09 AM	#15
Samui Banned Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Tokyo Posts: 611	I would either get the 5205r or the VC 87172J the best two options you have there. Get the VC if you want a cleaner dial.

1 June 2016, 08:23 AM	#18
lwcnv "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: usa Posts: 8	Had the 5227R, but it was missing something, the dial was too plain in the lower half, it looked out of place and empty. it was a very comfortable watch. I went with a 5396R. Between the ones you have listed I like the 5196R

1 June 2016, 09:12 AM	#20
PJ S Banned Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: UK Posts: 3,990	As often, I’ll provide the outside choice(s)… https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4214799.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3939466.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4409414.htm – use this one to haggle the price of that one...https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4305361.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4085809.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3105584.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3959798.htm – real outside contender, but still. https://www.chrono24.co.uk/urbanjuer...-id4032430.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...-id3936600.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...-id4415328.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3158551.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3061799.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3058739.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id4224225.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id4463699.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/jaquetdro...-id3865527.htm https://www.chrono24.co.uk/jaquetdro...-id3874992.htm

1 June 2016, 09:53 AM	#26
incontrol "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Real Name: Kevin Location: Somewhere in PA Watch: All of them... Posts: 10,355	Would a 5711 in PM be considered a dress watch option or does the date window mess that up? __________________ Patek Philippe Rolex

1 June 2016, 10:10 AM	#28
jon_jon "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: USA Posts: 4,343	If you like the 5205, I would say go for it. Although it is an AC, it is definitely a dress watch, just not a simple 3 handed dress watch. Amongst the three Calatravas, I think the 5296 has a clean dial that makes it a beautiful dress watch. The 5227 adds a more modern case design with an officer's caseback, but at a higher price. The dial color of the 5227 is not really white, but more of a cream color. As for the 5196, it reminds you of a vintage Calatrava with the seconds hand at the 6 o'clock position. It is the only Calatrava currently available in platinum. I own the 5227G and the 5196P - they are both nice for different reasons.

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