Help Me Re-Build my Collection...

[tictoc1]

So Im looking to revamp the collection and create a 12 watch collection,
I would like some suggestions on what forum members would choose in each category

Each watch needs to be a long term keeper, something that can be passed down so nothing to trendy or a so vintage that it is not possible to service.

Size needs to be 36mm - 42mm, except for Iconic design category in which case upto 47mm is okay

A smartwatch is not included as I consider this wearable tech that needs upgrading

Price wise - Total collection Cost of < 200,000 and Assume that each watch would be purchased at todays market value not MSRP from retail


What Im looking for
-----------------------------
1 Annual Calendar
1 Diver
1 Chronographs
1 worldtimer
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm
1 quartz -luxury
1 g shock
1 GMT
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)

Love to see what your collection would look like
Cheers

[Dan Pierce]

Why would you farm out the most enjoyable aspect of collecting by implementing group think? Deciding the complications you would utilize most, the designs most catching to your eye, & exploring the variety available allows for the best results for longterm satisfaction, IMHO.

Suggestions from others is fine, to a point. But I'll decide what's best for me and it's worked remarkably well so far. Dive in, enjoy the journey, and have a blast.
dP

[tictoc1]

Thanks for the input Dan. I enjoy hearing other peoples intake and approach to collecting.

With so many options out there its nice to hear about watches that I may of overlooked. I'm not looking to create a list of watches based on what forum members would buy and then act on it. Im looking to hear what forum members think about when they asked about a category of watch and why it speaks to them.

Cheers

[Want_bourbon]

1 Annual Calendar - Patek Philippe 5396R - $42K used
1 Diver - Submariner 124060 - $12K
1 Chronographs - Tudor BB Chrono - $5K
1 worldtimer - Nomos Zurich WT - $5K
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm - Day Date - $40K
1 quartz -luxury - Grand Seiko of choosing - $3K
1 g shock - A square one for $200
1 GMT - Current BLNR with choice of bracelet - $18K
4 Iconic design watches - Cartier Santos, $7K, Panerai 1312 $7K, Breguet Classique with guilloche dial $15K, JLC Reverso (too many options, but $46K left over to choose from).

If you go steel Reverso, you can change the Nomos WT to a Patek with many options.

[HHIslander]

Originally Posted by Dan Pierce

Why would you farm out the most enjoyable aspect of collecting by implementing group think? Deciding the complications you would utilize most, the designs most catching to your eye, & exploring the variety available allows for the best results for longterm satisfaction, IMHO.

Suggestions from others is fine, to a point. But I'll decide what's best for me and it's worked remarkably well so far. Dive in, enjoy the journey, and have a blast.
dP

Very good advice.

Perhaps it would help if we knew what you own/have owned in past? Are you starting from scratch?

If it was me, I'd take it one watch at a time. For example, start with a annual calendar, do the research, find the ones you like, agonize a little and then pick one. Wear it, wait a little. Them move on to Diver, etc.

The journey to the collection is often more fun than the destination. Take your time and enjoy!

[bjdub]

1 Annual Calendar - Not my thing so can't provide opinion
1 Diver - 126610LV
1 Chronographs - SS Sapphire Speedy
1 worldtimer - Not my thing so can't provide opinion
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm - RG olive DD
1 quartz - Not my thing so can't provide opinion
1 g shock - Good old classic DW5600E (I think that serial is right? the OG square one)
1 GMT - SS BLRO
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
- Tudor Pelagos 39 (I would probably daily this one)
- Medium Cartier Santos (I really like the new green face)
- Hamilton Khaki Field Watch (medium, black face on green nato)
- Newest Omega Bond Watch

[Manamana]

Originally Posted by Want_bourbon

1 Annual Calendar - Patek Philippe 5396R - $42K used
1 Diver - Submariner 124060 - $12K
1 Chronographs - Tudor BB Chrono - $5K
1 worldtimer - Nomos Zurich WT - $5K
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm - Day Date - $40K
1 quartz -luxury - Grand Seiko of choosing - $3K
1 g shock - A square one for $200
1 GMT - Current BLNR with choice of bracelet - $18K
4 Iconic design watches - Cartier Santos, $7K, Panerai 1312 $7K, Breguet Classique with guilloche dial $15K, JLC Reverso (too many options, but $46K left over to choose from).

If you go steel Reverso, you can change the Nomos WT to a Patek with many options.

No Omega Speedmaster in Iconic design? should be top of the list

[Want_bourbon]

Originally Posted by Manamana

No Omega Speedmaster in Iconic design? should be top of the list

You are absolutely correct. I personally don't love the timepiece, and of course doing a list is going to be biased, but there's no arguing that the Speedmaster would probably be a better choice for the Chronograph or to replace something in the iconic design.

[Manamana]

Patek annual Calendar
Rolex Hulk diver
Panda Daytona 116500 Chronograph
Speedmaster 3861 or better 321
Rolex DD 40
Rootbeer TT
Pepsi jubilee
Cartier Santos
Panerai or JLC Reverso
Breguet
AP or Vacheron or both or IWC
Moser as independent

[cdm765]

1 Annual Calendar - Patek 5235 Regulator
1 Diver - Tudor Pelagos (blue)
1 Chronographs - Omega Speedmaster
1 worldtimer - JLC Geophysic Universal Worldtime
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - Lange 1
1 quartz - GS
1 g shock - GMWB5000-1 (this watch rocks)
1 GMT - SS BLRO
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
- Cartier Santos (medium)
- Doxa Sub300 (carribean dial)
- IWC Portuguese 40mm
- Rolex Explorer

How’d I do? Have fun!

[tictoc1]

Thanks for the replies

Ive collected for a long time and tried various models.

Ive tried collecting the Trinity pieces, Had an Patek Nautilus, VC overseas and Rolex Daytona - Great value but didn't get me excited

I've tried collecting only Rolex, this was not enough variety for me

Tried Mostly Vintage - to much work on confirming provenance, didn't enjoy it

Tried collecting Iconic designs pieces - I still have some of these, such as a reverso, while have let others like IWC Ingenieur go

So over the years Ive learned and accepted that I like variety but also appreciate incorporating historical aspects of watchmaking into the collection.
For example, for my chronograph option, its tough to decide against an Omega 321 vs Current Daytona, Vs A zenith Daytona

Hence why I came up with a the quest of 12 watches which seems like the right number for me to fill my variety need while also having pieces that carry different aspects of watchmaking that I enjoy.

I also like hearing about watches that I would otherwise overlook, for example, I wasn't thinking of a GS quartz until someone put it up there.

So thanks for taking the time to read and reply and please keep the ideas coming.

[HHIslander]

1 Annual Calendar-JLC Master Control Calendar Chrono
1 Diver-Glashutte Seaq
1 Chronographs-VC 5500 reverse panda
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm: WG DD 36
1 quartz -luxury no idea
1 g shock MRG B1000 line
1 GMT-16710
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
Navitimer, reverso, red tokyo speedmaster, smurf

[Mass_Attack]

Originally Posted by cdm765

1 Annual Calendar - Patek 5235 Regulator
1 Diver - Tudor Pelagos (blue)
1 Chronographs - Omega Speedmaster
1 worldtimer - JLC Geophysic Universal Worldtime
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - Lange 1
1 quartz - GS
1 g shock - GMWB5000-1 (this watch rocks)
1 GMT - SS BLRO
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
- Cartier Santos (medium)
- Doxa Sub300 (carribean dial)
- IWC Portuguese 40mm
- Rolex Explorer

How’d I do? Have fun!

I like this list. Only thing I'd swap is the Explorer for a Reverso.

[brandrea]

It looks like a fun exercise but honestly it hurts my head thinking about it

We all collect a bit differently, and for the record, I don’t consider myself a “collector” per se. That said, I guess I’d buy 3 or 4 watches that really resonate with you from the icon list and go from there

[RTG]

So many variables make this more tricky than one would first assume. I fully understand your dilemma. Wire me to the 200k. I’ll do some serious T&A, I mean T&E (test and evaluation). When I’m all done, will send you the perfect 12 watch collection. Then, we can work on your car collection.

[rolexandlange]

Annual Calendar
PP 5146G Grey Dial $30k

Diver
JLC Tribute to Polaris 1968 $k10

Chronographs
Lange Datograph $65k


worldtimer
Patek in Yellow Gold $27k


Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm
Day Date 36mm $15k

quartz -luxury
Breitling Aerospace EVO White Dial (jerry seinfeld) $2-3k

g shock
Casio f91w $13

GMT
any Rolex Pepsi iteration $15k

Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
116500 White Dial $30k
Patek Calatrava $15k
Royal Oak 15202ST $65k
Black Dial Submariner $12k

This will run you $285k but rules you set for yourself are made to be broken

[ILoveFerrari]

Originally Posted by tictoc1

So Im looking to revamp the collection and create a 12 watch collection,
I would like some suggestions on what forum members would choose in each category

Each watch needs to be a long term keeper, something that can be passed down so nothing to trendy or a so vintage that it is not possible to service.

Size needs to be 36mm - 42mm, except for Iconic design category in which case upto 47mm is okay

A smartwatch is not included as I consider this wearable tech that needs upgrading

Price wise - Total collection Cost of &lt; 200,000 and Assume that each watch would be purchased at todays market value not MSRP from retail


What Im looking for
-----------------------------
1 Annual Calendar
1 Diver
1 Chronographs
1 worldtimer
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm
1 quartz -luxury
1 g shock
1 GMT
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)

Love to see what your collection would look like
Cheers

total budget and budget for each category? And are you okay with independent watchmaker?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[dannyp]

I should preface this by saying I prefer smaller watches and am not one to "buy just to buy" so probably wouldn't do all of the ones from the OP (leaving out those I know I wouldn't be getting). The ones I'm including I believe all can be had at or below retail from AD w/a little patience:

Annual Calendar: PP 5396R (~$55,000)
Diver: Tudor BB54 (~$4,000)
Chronograph: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow (~$8,000)
Worldtimer: PP 5230P (~$70,000)
Icon 1: Rolex 124270 (~$7,500)
Icon 2: JLC Reverso Classic midsize RG (~$12,000)
Icon 3: Cartier Tank Francais (~$5,000)
Icon 4: Rolex 126000 silver (~$6,000)

GMT would probably be a Rolex 126713 (~$16,500) because I like the look of the SS/YG and black/grey bezel, but in all honesty, most GMT watches are too large for my liking.

Also couldn't see buying a quartz that constitutes "luxury" nor a full PM watch, so difficult to comment.

[tictoc1]

1 Annual Calendar - Patek 5205
1 Diver - Rolex Submariner 16610 LN or LV (easy to swap the bezel inserts )
1 Chronograph - Omega Speedmaster Ed white
1 Worldtimer - Frederique Constant Worldtimer or Ball Wordtimer
1 Full Precious metal watch + 1 quartz luxury = Rolex Oysterquartz 19018
1 g shock
1 GMT - Still not sure, its a rolex but cant decide on 16710 or current model
5 Iconic design watches
- Rolex daytona 16520 or 116500LN
- Panerai Luminor 113
- IWC big pilot
- JLC reverso
- Grand seiko - not sure which one yet

Still in the running
Tag Monaco
Cartier Santos
Zenith Chronomaster
Panerai 243

[~JJ]

Why 12 watches?

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by tictoc1

1 Annual Calendar - Patek 5205
1 Diver - Rolex Submariner 16610 LN or LV (easy to swap the bezel inserts )
1 Chronograph - Omega Speedmaster Ed white
1 Worldtimer - Frederique Constant Worldtimer or Ball Wordtimer
1 Full Precious metal watch + 1 quartz luxury = Rolex Oysterquartz 19018
1 g shock
1 GMT - Still not sure, its a rolex but cant decide on 16710 or current model
5 Iconic design watches
- Rolex daytona 16520 or 116500LN
- Panerai Luminor 113
- IWC big pilot
- JLC reverso
- Grand seiko - not sure which one yet

Still in the running
Tag Monaco
Cartier Santos
Zenith Chronomaster
Panerai 243

For some reason I thought we were talking current production watches. Off thinking about recently discontinued I may well consider the world timer in YG or a smaller Calatrava in same. I’d also seriously give thought to only doing going PP on the AC and doing a Rado Captain Cook Over Pole as the WT. PP is just such an icon there…

Also curious why the BP and not the Mk series as an icon?

[llngoc]

Originally Posted by dannyp

I should preface this by saying I prefer smaller watches and am not one to "buy just to buy" so probably wouldn't do all of the ones from the OP (leaving out those I know I wouldn't be getting). The ones I'm including I believe all can be had at or below retail from AD w/a little patience:

Annual Calendar: PP 5396R (~$55,000)
Diver: Tudor BB54 (~$4,000)
Chronograph: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow (~$8,000)
Worldtimer: PP 5230P (~$70,000)
Icon 1: Rolex 124270 (~$7,500)
Icon 2: JLC Reverso Classic midsize RG (~$12,000)
Icon 3: Cartier Tank Francais (~$5,000)
Icon 4: Rolex 126000 silver (~$6,000)

GMT would probably be a Rolex 126713 (~$16,500) because I like the look of the SS/YG and black/grey bezel, but in all honesty, most GMT watches are too large for my liking.

Also couldn't see buying a quartz that constitutes "luxury" nor a full PM watch, so difficult to comment.

I would consider a FPJ Elegante as a luxury quartz.

[Calatrava r]

Any interest in the Lange AC. It is a pretty clean looking well-fitting watch as a start. I would add a few Rolexes in there to cover your bases. For a dress watch I would look at an older Calatrava in the 35 to 37 range.

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by llngoc

I would consider a FPJ Elegante as a luxury quartz.

I didn’t say they didn’t exist, just that I couldn’t revert see buying one and therefore would have little to add in terms of recommendations

[Booth9999]

Anyone curious what chatHPT would recommend?

[llngoc]

Originally Posted by dannyp

I didn’t say they didn’t exist, just that I couldn’t revert see buying one and therefore would have little to add in terms of recommendations

I would not say getting a Spring Drive or an Elegante an “reversion” though.

My wife is definitely wearing her Elegante a lot more than the Patek and MB&F. It is comfortable, accurate and finely crafted. And it is the most accessible FPJ too.

[Nav01L]

Originally Posted by tictoc1

Thanks for the replies

Ive collected for a long time and tried various models.

Ive tried collecting the Trinity pieces, Had an Patek Nautilus, VC overseas and Rolex Daytona - Great value but didn't get me excited

I've tried collecting only Rolex, this was not enough variety for me

Tried Mostly Vintage - to much work on confirming provenance, didn't enjoy it pop

Tried collecting Iconic designs pieces - I still have some of these, such as a reverso, while have let others like IWC Ingenieur go

So over the years Ive learned and accepted that I like variety but also appreciate incorporating historical aspects of watchmaking into the collection.
For example, for my chronograph option, its tough to decide against an Omega 321 vs Current Daytona, Vs A zenith Daytona

Hence why I came up with a the quest of 12 watches which seems like the right number for me to fill my variety need while also having pieces that carry different aspects of watchmaking that I enjoy.

I also like hearing about watches that I would otherwise overlook, for example, I wasn't thinking of a GS quartz until someone put it up there.

So thanks for taking the time to read and reply and please keep the ideas coming.

I like how you are going about this, I have to say.

For the icons, you have to specify for me whether you want icons of design, i.e. things that truly advanced the paradigm of how watches looked at a certain time, or whether you mean watches that everyone in the community would recognize. As you approach this with ample experience and from a relatively sophisticated perspective, I would assume the former.

If so, I would propose the following:

Icon for the advent of the wristwatch in the 30ies: Patek 96 variation, e.g. 5196r
Icon for the evolution into an adventure tool in the 50ies: Submariner/Fifty Fathoms, can be a modern one too, alternatively a Navitimer or a Speedmaster. My personal choice would be a 50th anniversary Kermit.
Icon for the evolution into a lifestyle product: Royal Oak, alternatively a Daytona, as the thing that was greatly unpopular at first but that has since become a larger than life fashion icon, truly embodying the evolution of watches over the last 50 years. Tried on a YG Zenith one a few days ago, that would fit this category beautifully as well.
Icon for the rebirth of the mechanical watch after the Quarz Crisis: Breitling Chronomat from the late 80ies or an early Blanpain from the Biver era, a Bond Seamaster would fit this one quite nicely too, or a Royal Oak Offshore. Franck Muller and Daniel Roth also come to mind.

Obviously, some of these have eta or Valjoux movements, but that’s very much of their time and makes them well servicable. Wouldn’t keep me from going for a Chronomat or something like that.

For the luxury Quarz, serviceability will be an issue over time, same for the GShock.

A good friend recently bought a Breitling Aerospace in beautiful condition, that would be a great contestant in this category and with its AniDigi look, a bit of a period icon too.

As for the pure chronograph category, I would take a VC Cornes de Vaches. The Lemania movement is an icon in and of itself, has been used in anything from a Speedy to complicated Pateks. So if you want to truly celebrate the chronograph as a category, why not get the most beautiful rendition of that particular movement on the market?

World timer, I would go for a 5130r, it’s a very Patek complication and if you’re going for a Patek on that one, why not one from the good old time when they still had Geneva Seals.

The same rationale would lead me to seek out a 5146 for the annual calendar.

Combined with the 96 from the „icons“ above, that puts three meaningful and non obvious (but to the thinking man, especially worthy“ Pateks next to a 15202 and a beautiful Vacheron Chronograph. I can’t fathom a better representation of what Swiss traditional watchmaking has to offer. Add some cool independent to round that off. Maybe an Urban Jurgensen in a wild color.

Oh and for the GMT, take a five digit Rolex Pepsi or Coke. There’s no better GMT.

[Justindo]

Like you, I tend to gravitate toward icons and while I like Rolex, I wouldn't want too many in a collection. My choices aren't particularly original, but icons are icons for a reason and they have and will stand the test of time. If I were building a collection from scratch with a healthy budget, I think I'd start with a handful of core pieces from brands and with complications that I know I wanted and go from there. I prefer new watches and I don't like watches with integrated bracelets, so my list reflects that. I like a balance of quality and quantity in a collection, so I do think that circa 12 watches is a good number for a collection, although I personally wouldn't want all the categories on your list. However, given your criteria, I'd lean toward the following:

1 Annual Calendar: Patek Philippe 5396R-011 for the icon, although I like the A. Lange and Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar better.

1 Diver: Rolex Submariner 124060 for the icon or the Tudor Black Bay 58 or 54 if you want something smaller and/or more toolish and/or want to spend less.

1 Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster for the icon. The Ed White would be my choice, but if you wanted to spend less, the current generation Speedmaster is nice too. I would also consider the A. Lange and Söhne 1815 Chronograph or the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache for something dressy or for more brand variety for the collection. Both would, obviously, be much more expensive than the Speedmaster, but are worth the price, in my opinion.

1 World Timer: Patek Philippe 5230P-001, because the Patek world timer is an icon and some metal variety is nice in a collection.

1 Full Precious Metal: Rolex Day-Date 40 in whatever size, metal, and dial you like. I'm assuming you mean full precious metal on a bracelet, so this wouldn't be something I would likely want unless it was a Platona or maybe a platinum Day-Date 40, but I understand the appeal.

1 Quartz Luxury: Whatever Grand Seiko you like. This also wouldn't be in my collection, but the Grand Seikos are nice.

1 G-Shock: Casio DW5600E-1V

1 GMT: Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLRO-0001, because it's the icon and I like the jubilee best on this watch.

Iconic Watch #1: Jaeger-leCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface in steel, because it's an icon, I really love Reversos, and it brings shape and brand diversity to a collection.

Iconic Watch #2: Rolex Explorer 36 or 40mm or the Tudor Ranger if you wanted to save money and wanted something more toolish. Both watches are icons, although the Tudor is less of one, and I'd want a field watch as part of a collection.

Iconic Watch #3: Breitling B01 43mm in whatever dial color you like. It's another icon, the slide rule bezel is cool, and I'd like a pilot's watch and another iconic brand as part of a collection.

Iconic Watch #4: If you didn't opt for the Omega Speedmaster, the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache, or the Patek Philippe 5396R-011 above, one could fit here. Those aside, I like dress watches, so I'd also consider a Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1921 36.5mm in pink gold or a Cartier Tank Louis Manual Large in pink gold for brand and shape diversity.

I've totally blown your $200,000 budget here, but I didn't think that was of the utmost importance. Also, this kind of collection could be reduced and/or built over a period of time.

[karva]

My take :

1 Annual Calendar : PP 5396G-014 ~43k
1 Diver : 126610LN 13k
1 Chronographs : Speedmaster sapphire new buckle 6k
1 worldtimer : JLC Geophysic 15k
1 Full Precious metal watch 36mm - 40mm : 228235 olive 53k
1 quartz -luxury : not a real quartz but GS SBGA413 6k
1 g shock w/e 200
1 GMT : 126710BLRO 20k
4 Iconic design watches (it can be a repetitive designs of any of the above)
- navitimer 6k
- santos 7k
- reverso duoface moonphase 15k
- Tag Heuer Monaco Steve Mcqueen edition 10k

That was hard to make, as I don't like some categories !