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7 October 2009, 08:31 AM | #1 |
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how to spot a fake movement...
Without opening the caseback, is there anyway giveaways to a fake Rolex movement? For example timing the power reserve (36 hours etc.) or listening to the movement, playing with the crown, or maybe the precision of the midnight date change?
Just curious, thanks! |
7 October 2009, 09:41 AM | #2 |
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without openning up ahh tricky look at the calendar numbers if anything on the outsied looks suspicious mostly a fake but openning it up is the only way, but I have seen copies of real movements that are scary then I get the big hammer. Rikki
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7 October 2009, 10:07 AM | #3 |
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Well if the hand doesn't move smoothly and the second hand is staggering, either it's an Oyster-Quartz, a bad fake, or the watch has a problem.
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7 October 2009, 10:38 PM | #4 |
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If you already have a recent Rolex then you have a movement that beats at 28800, it has a very distinctive almost "chiming" tick to it, the speed is critical as well....very few fake movements sound the same or beat as fast.....if you know what they look like and sound like from the outside then you have a good starting point......but unless you open the case you will never know absolutely......
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4 January 2010, 03:27 AM | #5 | |
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8 October 2009, 02:03 AM | #6 |
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Thanks guys. Good stuff.
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11 October 2009, 01:11 AM | #7 |
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A good way to tell that i have noticed, is that when you set the hands on the watch, a genuine watch will only rotate the hands when you turn clockwise which is the way all modern rolexes do. A fake will rotate counterclockwise.
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11 October 2009, 01:20 AM | #8 |
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Watch the date wheel movement. Should flip at midnight, not starting at 10:00PM...
Crown rotation mentioned above is also a good one... -Sheldon
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11 October 2009, 01:39 AM | #9 | |
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I also believe that this only applies with the newer 3135 movements as well. I've heard that the prior 27J movement works the opposite just like the fakes. Can anyone confirm this?
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16 October 2009, 09:00 PM | #10 |
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[QUOTE=rkammer;1393275]Perhaps we should clarify this a bit. The hands can be moved in either direction with both the Rolex and the fake. The difference is that with the genuine Rolex, the hands will advance time with clockwise rotation of the crown. With the fake, the hands will retard time with clockwise rotation of the crown.
what I was meaning to say, thanks
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25 December 2009, 11:14 PM | #11 | |
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[QUOTE=JoeI;1403133]
Quote:
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26 December 2009, 02:03 AM | #12 |
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My observations on my GMTIIC M serial number:
Turning the crown CW advances hours or minutes. In the first position winding the watch is facilitated. In the second position turning the crown moves the hour hand, one full rotation of the crown advances the hour hand 8 hours. In this position you will also set the calender in a semi quickset fashion. On the 3185 movement the hour hand advances 5-6 hours. In the third position the second hand is hacked/stopped, and the minute, hour and 24 hr hand are advanced. Finally the 24 hour hand cannot be moved independantly. On the 3186 movement the 24 hour hand is always rock steady when setting the hour hand. On the earlier movemnet (3185) the 24 hour hand wiggles a bit when you set the hour hand. I hope this sheds some light on the subject. Merry Christmas
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19 October 2009, 07:34 AM | #13 | |
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Best, A |
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2 January 2010, 07:11 AM | #14 |
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[QUOTE=rkammer;1393275]Perhaps we should clarify this a bit. The hands can be moved in either direction with both the Rolex and the fake. The difference is that with the genuine Rolex, the hands will advance time with clockwise rotation of the crown. With the fake, the hands will retard time with clockwise rotation of the crown.
I'm just a new guy here so what do I know... other than after reading this thread I had to go in, quickly, and check out my 116520 Daytona and make sure it rotated clockwise with a clockwise rotation of the crown. Interestingly all my other watches, ETA movements and my Glashutte all seem to rotate opposite to Rolex's. Now I can sleep peacefully tonight. :) |
11 October 2009, 02:57 AM | #15 |
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11 October 2009, 07:14 AM | #16 |
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See my post immediately prior to yours.
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16 October 2009, 10:58 AM | #17 |
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I don't understand. Please clarify: when I set the hands, they rotate BOTH ways so that I can go in reverse if I go to far. What am I missing here?
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5 September 2010, 01:59 AM | #18 |
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Old post, new question. Does anyone know if the above applies to a 16520 with a 4030 movement?
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28 October 2010, 03:34 AM | #19 |
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Confused? I guess my wife's ladies YM sold by an AD i a fake ....
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7 January 2015, 07:32 AM | #20 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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16 October 2009, 10:59 AM | #21 |
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OK, sorry...I didn't read rkammer's post. Yes, this makes sense and isn't this reversed in the lady's models?
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16 October 2009, 09:48 PM | #22 |
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what about the weight. I have always found the fake one lighter. Or is it just I haven't coe across a good fake
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16 October 2009, 10:13 PM | #23 |
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There is one way to check without opening the caseback, listen to the sounds the rotor listed as it swings around inside the case, I've noticed on recent fakes the rotor does sounds tinny and not smooth at all depending on the type of movement, as these movements usually use a spacer in the case and do not fit snug there is alto a bit of movement when manual winding and changing date a and time that can be noticed as the dial shifts around as with the hands.
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19 October 2009, 08:28 AM | #24 | |
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8 November 2009, 05:53 AM | #25 | |
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I don't think an ETA movement would go in a genuine rolex case...and this is how you can spot a fake without opening the caseback...the stem in the eta would be in a different position, and so the crown on the fake will always give it away... look at it from the side..the fake crown will always sit lower on the case. |
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26 December 2009, 04:46 PM | #26 | |
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.... BUT I still recommend examining the movement with your own eyes once you become familiar with Rolex movements. |
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7 November 2014, 04:46 AM | #27 | |
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The "cloning" factories have adressed the lower crown position that would indicate the use of an eta or sw movement several years ago. And cases that will employ both the eta/sellita and genuine 31XX movements have been circulating in the markets for at least 5 years that I know of. As has been mentioned ( and yes I realize this is a very old thread and thought I might "update" it a bit) the only way to be SURE is to crack it open and have a look. And even then you need to "really" know what you're looking at as the cloning of the 28,800 vph, 31XX movement has come a "long" way. |
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31 October 2009, 01:33 AM | #28 |
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Whenever I buy on from a person unknown I meet them at a watch smith and he pulls the back cover off it. If they won`t agree to that I do not buy the watch. I cover the cost at the watch smith, works well for me
Mike |
26 December 2009, 02:44 AM | #29 | |
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Good post Mike. |
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25 December 2009, 06:35 PM | #30 |
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I wearing DateJust, What I realize 2 hours before midnight, the date started to flip but not completed, flip to half way (date slowly rotate) , 4 minutes to midnight, the date completely/totally flip.
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