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Old 9 January 2022, 05:26 AM   #1
dh1
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 175
15202ST 0944 vs. 1240 differences and variations

Hi folks,

Now that the 15202ST reference is "done", I was trying to collect some info about the different variants of the mainline steel reference (for now setting aside different metals like 15202PT or other limited variants).

You can see very plainly there's two demarcated generations ("collection number"?) with 0944 vs. 1240. But while you can find some good info about the 1240STs variations (e.g. MK1 / MK2 / MK3 dials... see below), I don't see much info / talk about the 0944ST variant even though it's also a 15202.

I feel like it might be the "black sheep" of the 15202s because the dial aesthetics aren't as nice (IMO), although it's the only 15202 you can get with a white dial AFAIK.

What follows is just some stream of consciousness info and some questions, since I'm nerdy and like to piece together info.

0944 basic info
* Dial: AP logo at 12, larger tapisserie, arabic numbers for 5 seconds around the outer rim. Date disk is not color matched.
* Dial codes: they made made 15202ST.OO.0944ST.01 / .02 and / .03. 1 is white, 2 and 3 are blue in different shades.
* Bracelet: single fold / single hinge.
* Rotor is more elaborate. Tim Mosso mentioned they gave customers the option of customizing the rotor since it was hand engraved.






1240 basic info
* Dial: AP logo at 6, smaller tapisserie, color matched date wheel. Purportedly this transition is when AP started making dials in house instead of contracting to Stern Créations.
* Dial codes: 01 / 01.A. blue only, although there are several changes in the shade of blue over time that aren't distinguished in the number.
* Bracelet: modern bifold clasp.
* Rotor is less elaborate.






1240 variation
  • There was a great analysis of 15202ST dial variations on Time Tapestry blog. They produced a summary infographic:
  • Various people have noted that AP transitioned from a monoblock case to a cheaper non-monoblock case sometime during the 1240 reference run. Tim Mosso on Watchbox said 2017, other sources say 2015-2016.
  • One unanswered question I have is, "what is the difference between 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01 and 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A, if any?"

0944 variation
  • This is where I can't really find too much info. It's obvious there are three dial color codes. Does anyone know if there are any key variations during the run?
  • Does anyone know if the 1240ST bracelet can be attached to the 0944ST models if you like the bifold clasp better?
  • I did find an interesting picture of a 0944 that was for sale that had AP at 12, but the tapisserie was the size of the 1240, and automatic is at 6 (which isn't like 0944). I wonder if this could be a 5402ST service dial (for the late C or D series with AP @ 12), because it matches the aesthetics. Or does anyone know if service dials for 15202 0944 look like this? Because it's way better looking IMO than the original 0944 dial.
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