1016 bracelet sanity check

[analogjack]

Looking for a period-correct -- or nearly period-correct -- Rolex bracelet for my recently overhauled 1968 Explorer 1016. I'm certain that I originally had a 7206/58 oyster -- now, sadly, long-gone -- but I understand that there are options for the newer 7836/580 or 78360/580 for the 1016. I assume it's important to have the right end links, in particular, but is it just really important or is it actually wings-falling-off-aircraft important? In other words -- and since this is Swiss stuff, this is probably a whacko question -- is there any wiggle room on the end links?
There is an eBay auction (which I find I can't post 'cause I'm new) for a 7836 with 280 end links. At least for the moment, the price is relatively reasonable. But the seller is in Mexico, does not accept returns, and has 30 eBay sales so far with 12 feedbacks -- all positive. So the questions are (1) can a 280 endlink work with a 1016 and, if it can, (2) is this a reasonable purchase -- final auction price obviously influencing the decision, as well.
I'm going to assume that it's better to wait for a completely correct band and endlink combination to come up for sale, but does it make any sense to buy an incorrect endlink combo and try to find the right endlinks -- particularly if I can find an ideal 7206 with incorrect endlinks at a price somewhat below my old Mini Cooper?
No rush here. My 56-year-old 1016 (original owner) is perfectly happy on a $15 rubber band from China for the time being, but it hopes to be reunited with an optimal Swiss bracelet soon.
Thanks for all the sage advice.