Why not 24K appliqué?

[thenewrick]

This is something I’ve wondered about for a long time. Maybe an expert could chime in.

I love the look of 24k gold. It’s deeper and darker and slightly more orange than most 18K alloys.

I understand that you can’t make a case or bracelet out of 24K because it’s too malleable. But why not have 24K appliqué?

My understanding is that 24K would never corrode and would make the appliqué looking new for much longer than an 18K alloy. And the appliqué isn’t really out under any duress or more duress than 24K could handle.

You can polish a case and bracelet but you can’t really polish your appliqué easily.

So why not have 24K appliqué?

Same goes for platinum appliqué. Why not have 100% pure platinum appliqué?

My guess is two part. First it’s more expensive to make pure appliqué. Second, if you have pure appliqué it highlights the fact that the rest of the metal on the watch is an alloy. And many people don’t know that a “solid gold or solid platinum” watch is actually between 75%-95% gold and platinum respectively and they’d feel like they’re getting less for their money or it would feel less special knowing their jewelry was not solid gold.

I think many people do actually think their gold jewelry is solid gold to this day and think they can just melt their watches into pure gold.

That’s my theory at least.

I’d love to see a “gold nugget” style daydate dial with a fresh slice of pure nugget for the dial and solid precious metal appliqué. Bring back the King Midas name perhaps. Lots of really cool options with this theme of pure precious metal.

[Michael T]

24k is too soft as you mention. Every gold coated watch of any age I have seen, there are small indentations or chips exposing the underlying metal. Also, it does not avail you to polish the watch in any significant manner. Vermeil was a 70’s construct in my mind, that largely died off.

[thenewrick]

By appliqué I was referring to the hands, indices, Rolex crown and any other applied marker made from precious metal on the dial. It would never be touched and would be solid precious metal so it would never be scratched or dented unless someone opened up the case top and fiddled with things

[Parapraxis]

Too soft. Would make a terrible watch.

[thenewrick]

Can you elaborate? What would damage the appliqué on a dial? Pure gold and platinum isn’t so delicate as to deform in a hot car or a freezing situation. I doubt the pressure in the case is enough to distort the metal in the case of actual deep diving with the watch.

I’d like to hear from a watchmaker or someone with some expertise in metals on if there’s any practical reason why not to have pure precious metals on the dial?

I’ve seen 22K rotors for winding and I suspect that’s a lot more wear and tear and movement and potential for damage than a seconds hand endures.

[kieselguhr]

I won’t claim to know the exact process that Rolex uses for dial production but I assume it is fairly similar to other brands that are not as secretive.

The indices are secured onto the dial by “prongs” (not sure proper terminology) that protrude through the dial. I imagine that being softer, 24k may not be as secure or at least not up to Rolex standards.

Also, I assume the “appliqué” process at Rolex is done by machine as opposed to being hand applied like with smaller production independents. Therefore 18k may suit production needs better.

Additionally, cost of material (24k vs 18k) and cost of changing materials to an already existing automated process are likely factors as well.

Or maybe it’s not even a technical reason and that 24k simply doesn’t meet the aesthetic that they are looking for.

[PO 2500D]

Cost has to be a factor, as do practical considerations such as manufacturing processes and of course keeping the colour uniform to the case.

It's just not needed really.

[dannyp]

Assuming so that all golds match. Only watch where it wouldn’t matter is the silver dial OP (all white metal besides the applications).

[thenewrick]

I have a silver OP but I see your point that there aren’t many watches that have yellow gold only on the dial.

But I could see platinum on steel watches or more gold dial watches with steel references.

I just like the idea of dial appliqué that never corrodes like the 18k gold alloys will over time. And there’s something interesting to me about pure precious metals. Having the dial contain pure precious metal protects it like looking at something special in a protected case. Similar to the theory of PM rotors but I’d like to see 100% pure.

A new King Midas dress watch with a 1.000 platinum dial with 24k yellow gold appliqué with moonphase would be special I think. I’d accept a white gold or alloy case and buckle for practicality sake. I just think it would be an interesting thing. Rolex used to take more chances in this way. Eisenkiesel was the last interesting material we got. I’d like to see more experimenting.

In reality I’d be totally cool with a 24K gold dress watch case too. I’m not smashing my dress watch around and scratches add character. Just my opinion.

Gold alloys just aren’t super exciting to me. Knowing I’m looking at nickel and copper for a yellow tone sort of taints the 75% of gold in the alloy for me.

24k jewelry is out there. Yes it scratches and it’s not tough. But it’s jewelry. Most people are already handling their submariners with satin gloves and pillows already