Expanding a collection

[Belgravejohn]

Hi everyone. First time poster here looking for advice.

I currently wear two PP watches - an annual calendar (5146J) and an aquanaut (5168G-001). Both bought from the salon. I don't own any other watches.

I'm keen to add a third watch, and am looking for something a little different.

Initial thoughts are:

1) World time - as a frequent traveller, I really like the world time complication. Nothing in the current collection leaps out at me, so my thinking is a discontinued model. Maybe a 5130? What are people's opinions on picking up a pre-owned watch like this?

2) Calatrava - the other thought is a very simple, classical Calatrava. For some reason, I like the idea of a vintage piece. But dipping into this part of the pre-owned market seems even more intimidating!

I'm interested to hear what people would do in my position. Any dos and don'ts? Is there another path that might add more enjoyment?

The only choice I think I've definitely ruled out is a Nautilus.

[Xpatcan1]

manual wind chrono maybe 5172g-010?

[GGGMT]

I have absolutely loved this travel time; extremely functional for frequent travel across time zones. Like you, I have long, considered a world time, and I think I will eventually get one. They’re gorgeous, tho less practical re traveling.




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[vitalsigns]

What budget are you working with? There are a lot of great new choices and from the last ~20 years.

Are you looking for casual or a dress piece?

[vandyologist]

Easy - 5326g. Checks both the travel time and Calatrava boxes.

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by Belgravejohn

1) World time - as a frequent traveller, I really like the world time complication. Nothing in the current collection leaps out at me, so my thinking is a discontinued model. Maybe a 5130? What are people's opinions on picking up a pre-owned watch like this?

2) Calatrava - the other thought is a very simple, classical Calatrava. For some reason, I like the idea of a vintage piece. But dipping into this part of the pre-owned market seems even more intimidating!

I'm interested to hear what people would do in my position. Any dos and don'ts? Is there another path that might add more enjoyment?

The only choice I think I've definitely ruled out is a Nautilus.

Welcome on the forum :)

1) WT are romantic watches and iconic of Patek collections. Alternatively, the Travel Time complication is another traveler complication with 1 minute hand and 2 hour hands. That allows to have 2 accurate time zones and a simple dial if bot hour hands are placed on top of each other.
With the 5130, you have access to some limited editions or nice Pt models (blue dial and grey dial with white printings).

The 5230P is successful here but no problem with going for a 5130 or its predecessor, the 5110 (smaller though).

2) As for the Calatravas, there are so many references... Concerning vintage, it of course depends on its age but some old pieces might not be as well sealed (regarding humidity) and some previous hesalite glasses may be an issue regarding dings and scratches. But I'm not a vintage expert.
I would believe you make things much easier for yourself with a Calatrava from the last 30 years. But a predecessor has its own charm for sure.

Enjoy the hunt!

[Ellz]

Originally Posted by vandyologist

Easy - 5326g. Checks both the travel time and Calatrava boxes.

Love that piece :-)

[Calatrava r]

I think a 5130 is a great addition to your collection.

[Belgravejohn]

Originally Posted by vitalsigns

What budget are you working with? There are a lot of great new choices and from the last ~20 years.

Are you looking for casual or a dress piece?

I'm looking for something fairly versatile.

Budget of up to £50-60k for the right watch, but happy to spend less of course.

[Yobrooks]

5524, either white or rose gold. Checked the boxes, perhaps a 6119 ? No bad choices.

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[Partekular]

Have a look at the 5224 - in the metal.

[Bmats]

I have virtually the same two watches — 5168G (blue) and 5146R instead of J. I’m thinking of a 5226G, as the 5146R basically covers what I need for a suit. But a 5226G might cover stuff in between the two pieces. And it seems versatile, since I’d doubt I’d get a third Patek.

I like the idea of the 5226G because it’s straightforward — I don’t want another annual calendar complication to have to set. And I don’t need dual time function. I would be interested in chrono, but not at the price premium and feel I can get that with other brands anyway.

[codecow]

Both of your ideas are good ones.

I also have a 5146J, haven’t worn it in years but I love it. For Calatrava I went with the 5116R as I wanted the enamel dial. World Time obviously 5131R which I recommend if you can wait for the enamel piece (whatever the reference is for the modern one) or perhaps the green one?

[vitalsigns]

Originally Posted by Belgravejohn

I'm looking for something fairly versatile.

Budget of up to £50-60k for the right watch, but happy to spend less of course.

Consider a manual chronograph -- say a 5172G (blue dial) -- which is a nice step up from Patek's automatic movements and should be within your price range. That's what I'd target, but this is all about personal preferences.

[Chiboy]

Originally Posted by vitalsigns

Consider a manual chronograph -- say a 5172G (blue dial) -- which is a nice step up from Patek's automatic movements and should be within your price range. That's what I'd target, but this is all about personal preferences.

Can you explain why a manual chronograph is a step up from an automatic? I’m not challenging you. I just want to learn.

[byow]

Originally Posted by Chiboy

Can you explain why a manual chronograph is a step up from an automatic? I’m not challenging you. I just want to learn.

When you look at their calibers, you can see it. ;)

[John Doyle]

I second the 5326 - lovely piece

[codecow]

Originally Posted by Chiboy

Can you explain why a manual chronograph is a step up from an automatic? I’m not challenging you. I just want to learn.

Without the rotor and winding mechanism you can see the whole movement. It’s more of a canvas for finishing. Something like the 29-535 PS has instantaneous 30 min.

Compare to a CH 28‑520 automatic. Just look at the pictures on Patek’s website.

[Belgravejohn]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I hear the steer towards a travel time loud and clear. The 5326, in particular, is definitely one to consider.

Reading through other posts on the forum, am I right to get the sense that older/vintage models aren't all that popular here? I suppose I have it in my head that a balanced 5-6 piece watch collection might include one model from an earlier period.

[codecow]

I wouldn’t be turned off by vintage or older pieces at all especially if it has recent service history.

A model like the 5070 is “neo vintage” and probably more sought after than the more modern replacements. Something like a 5140 “neo vintage” piece with service history represents an excellent value.

[Chiboy]

Originally Posted by codecow

Without the rotor and winding mechanism you can see the whole movement. It’s more of a canvas for finishing. Something like the 29-535 PS has instantaneous 30 min.

Compare to a CH 28‑520 automatic. Just look at the pictures on Patek’s website.

Thanks. I realized that the winding mechanism obscured the movement, but didn't put together that a fully exposed manual movement is likely to be more decorated or better finished.