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Old 7 November 2014, 10:23 AM   #31
locutus49
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I have always liked Ralph Lauren. Not Polo, but rather Black and Purple label. Black is made for slender guys like me; purple is a bit more generous in cut.

Both are made in Italy in British style. And in D.C. they will highly customize the suits. I pick up mine tomorrow and will post picks. Black label much cheaper than purple, which equates to Kiton and Isaia in quality.

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a bit off topic,
but i have been on the hunt for suits as i have started a new job…

the biggest issue i am having is finding a tailor that cares and has some talent.
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Old 7 November 2014, 11:36 AM   #32
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a bit off topic,
but i have been on the hunt for suits as i have started a new job…

the biggest issue i am having is finding a tailor that cares and has some talent.

You're in the city, right?

I can connect you with a couple very good tailors that know how a suit should fit based on your style


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Old 7 November 2014, 11:41 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by locutus49 View Post
I have always liked Ralph Lauren. Not Polo, but rather Black and Purple label. Black is made for slender guys like me; purple is a bit more generous in cut.



Both are made in Italy in British style. And in D.C. they will highly customize the suits. I pick up mine tomorrow and will post picks. Black label much cheaper than purple, which equates to Kiton and Isaia in quality.

Purple label is world class stuff. My problem is that Ralph Lauren makes very cheap stuff and very expensive stuff so in my head, I can't make the distinction between the two


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Old 7 November 2014, 11:45 AM   #34
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Find out where The Situation and other stars of Jersey Shore get their suits made. They probably have a tailor who specializes in beefy, muscular guys.
Lol
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Old 7 November 2014, 11:46 AM   #35
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You're in the city, right?

I can connect you with a couple very good tailors that know how a suit should fit based on your style


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Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?
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Old 7 November 2014, 11:53 AM   #36
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Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?
That probably depends on if you tell them the fabric you want is "striped" or not...
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Old 7 November 2014, 11:54 AM   #37
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That probably depends on if you tell them the fabric you want is "striped" or not...
He pal...my first go round at the bespoke suit scene...take it easy
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Old 7 November 2014, 12:41 PM   #38
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Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?
It depends...

Try Kings tailor in the financial district. He's a 3rd generation suit maker from Hong Kong. He makes custom suits in house (not sending your measurements to Hong Kong shipping it back) and has a great choice of fabrics

He also does incredible work to tailor your existing suits. He practically re-cut my Roberto Cavalli tux into a slim fitting tuxedo and turned my cuff buttons into functioning buttons.

I also use Nick at Eleganza Tailors. He does a lot of the alterations on high end suits coming from the boutiques on 5th or Madison Ave.

Neither are cheap but these are the types of tailors that give your suit a proper fit. Just make sure to tell them what you are looking for and they will tell you whether its possible - they're tailors, not miracle workers. If your pants are ripping, its probably because they're too tight
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Old 8 November 2014, 02:14 AM   #39
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I have never heard of Saint Laurie, however I checked out their website. There are some good things they mention. First, they perform all of their tailoring on the premises, which is a good thing. Most custom tailoring is now done in Hong Kong or a variety of other places. A tailor might measure you at their shop and then send your measurements to Hong Kong. Usually, you get your finished suit completed and sent back to you without a second fitting. This is not a good idea. On the Saint Laurie site, they mentioned that you get a second fitting with a semi completed suit. This is your opportunity to tell the tailor if you want something tighter, looser, shorter, longer, etc. It's the best part of the custom tailoring experience, and it means that you get exactly the suit you want. They never mention the word bespoke, so I'm assuming you are getting a made to measure suit. However, for most people this will still be the best suit they own. It will fit better than any ready to wear suit by the name brand designers. Here are some things to look for in your suit:
1) High armholes
2) Fully handsewn and not machine sewn
3) Full floating canvas (never purchase fused canvas)
4) Functional jacket sleeve buttons (not merely decorative)
5) Horn buttons (not synthetic)
6) Functional lapel hole
7) I personal like pick stitching, but not everyone does

Paul,
Who do you recommend in the Seattle area for custom suits and shirts… doesn’t have to be bespoke, I would be ok with a good MTM. It sounds like the 2nd fitting is important to getting things just right.
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Old 8 November 2014, 07:05 AM   #40
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kbailey,

Seattle isn't the best city when it comes to tailored clothing. The only two options I have heard of are Gian Decaro and Nordsrom. I don't have experience with either of them, but I believe they offer made to measure suits.
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Old 8 November 2014, 07:49 AM   #41
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I spoke to an exec. What they are doing is dividing their stores into Polo and Ralph Lauren.

Polo is their entry level clothing, shirts with ponies, etc. Products made in China, but good quality.

Then there is Ralph Lauren, which will ONLY carry Black and Purple Label. Black is very slim fit (I took home a suit today, but I am slender) but very high quality, equal to Zegna. Purple is a bit looser fit but still fitted, but even higher quality, equal to Kiton, Isaia, etc. The Ralph Lauren stores will only carry luxury goods. They are transitioning to this two-tier store model right now.

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Originally Posted by rr-nyc View Post
Purple label is world class stuff. My problem is that Ralph Lauren makes very cheap stuff and very expensive stuff so in my head, I can't make the distinction between the two


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Old 8 November 2014, 11:42 AM   #42
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The cloth is went woth is vitale barberis canonico super 110 btw
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Old 8 November 2014, 12:49 PM   #43
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I take all my work clothes to my tailor. I had him fit 5 Saks Black Label suits. He offered to make me a suit for 3,500 as he's likely tired of fitting all my pants and suits that I purchase that need to be taken in and hemmed. I might take him up on his offer next year and have him make me a black suit.
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Old 8 November 2014, 01:30 PM   #44
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There you go...VBC 110s is a good place to start
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Old 8 November 2014, 01:45 PM   #45
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There you go...VBC 110s is a good place to start
Thanks. What would be the nxt best cloth from here?
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Old 10 November 2014, 01:56 AM   #46
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Anyone have any input on this cloth?
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Old 10 November 2014, 03:32 AM   #47
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Anyone have any input on this cloth?
Personally, I prefer super 130+. The weight drapes better and more resistant to wrinkles which is nice if you spend a lot of time traveling or sitting
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Old 10 November 2014, 05:17 AM   #48
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So i went to Saint Laurie today and the owner fits you. It is fully custom and i start eith the fabric then he gets very in depth with ever aspect ofmyour suit. Imopted for the fully functional button holes on the sleeve as he told me this is one of the easiest ways for you for the traind eye to know your suit is custom. I went with the itslian fabric and learned a lot about custom suits and suits overall. Cant wait to see how the suit turns out. Only downfall is the 6 week wait and thats only to go for your second fitting
Very interested to hear about your experience with Saint Laurie and how the finished product turns out.
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Old 11 November 2014, 04:38 AM   #49
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Very interested to hear about your experience with Saint Laurie and how the finished product turns out.
will definitely keep everyone posted on updates and final product
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Old 12 December 2014, 01:45 PM   #50
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Went for my second fitting today. Tell you what this guy doesnt fuck around. Hes so focued and you can tell passionate about what he does. I have a tough body to fit and i think he liked the challenge. I also got 5 shirts and had a fitting for them. Will post oics of final results
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