Modified rolex photos please!

[HogwldFLTR]

Originally Posted by fskywalker

Looks great with the cyclop Lee !


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Thanks, Francisco!!

[clarksky]

What is the best way to tell if a Sub has been modified? I'm looking to buy a "Smurf" (black dial/blue bezel) color combination Submariner online that the seller claims to be steel. I don't believe this was ever produced, and so I'm suspicious. thoughts?

[Sweramic]

Originally Posted by clarksky

What is the best way to tell if a Sub has been modified? I'm looking to buy a "Smurf" (black dial/blue bezel) color combination Submariner online that the seller claims to be steel. I don't believe this was ever produced, and so I'm suspicious. thoughts?

The blue bezel / black dial Submariner (ref. 126610) was released last year.

[GolfJunkie]

Originally Posted by Sweramic

The blue bezel / black dial Submariner (ref. 126610) was released last year.

Not correct.

The 126610ln is stainless steel with a black dial black bezel.

The 126619 is white gold with a black dial and blue bezel.

Rolex has never made a stainless steel submariner with a blue dial or blue bezel.

[Crunchie]

This one was altered by the dealer before I picked it up back in 2010.

The dial was swapped to give the combination my wife wanted, smooth bezel, oyster bracelet, blue dial (the original was white, I think).

They also removed the cyclops.

[0-60]

Originally Posted by Christopher_chak

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Beautiful! Exactly what i would do too.

[nikhsub1]

Hulk bezel on a 116610LN, they way it should have always been. Not a fan of the green dial.

[jets]

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Hulk bezel on a 116610LN, they way it should have always been. Not a fan of the green dial.

Imposter!!! JK looks nice

[0-60]

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Hulk bezel on a 116610LN, they way it should have always been. Not a fan of the green dial.

Looks great

[wgdaytona]

Contemplating the "shark" modification to a sub. Would like the SS chamfered bezel parts and the actual ceramic bezel parts to be real Rolex if possible so it all feels "correct." I've seen the "shark" conversion and really like it. Of course, I cannot justify the new WG sub. So, who is doing this kind of mod and can the parts be obtained? NOT meant to fool anyone or pass off as real, I just love the colors. Thanks.

[koronet-kid]

Originally Posted by RustyW

Love it much more cyclops-less!

Perfect dimensions and features/upgrades I used to dream about back when I bought my first "nice" watch, a 5 digit SD back in 2003!

Back then I thought...if they made it a little larger...42 mm, red script, thicker/more solid clasp with no drilled holes, matte dial, it would be perfect. They did it, but added a cyclops too so close, but so glaringly far from my version of perfect as I am not a fan of the cyclops on the sport models (DD & Skydweller, it works).

Anyway, happy camper!

How was this achieved new crystal or removal of the cyclops?

[Solo118]

Still loving this thread!

[Driver8]

Originally Posted by Solo118

Still loving this thread!

Me too. There's some seriously cool stuff in there.

[MisterG12]

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[Stan Cooper]

Originally Posted by MisterG12

That's a very nice looking GMT. I love the color of the leather strap matching the gold in the bezel and insert. It's a dressy SS tool watch.

[Stan Cooper]

EDIT- Please forgive the first sentence (run-on). I tried to edit it, but then it made even less sense.

Nearly two years ago, I posted (post 2096 in this thread) photos and a description of modifying an aftermarket faux ceramic aluminum bezel insert to fit the bezel of my 16710 GMT II by shaving a fraction of a millimeter off of the 38.0mm outside diameter of the aftermarket insert using a fixture I had made by a local machine shop for $35 to keep the insert centered and secure while using the fixture inserted into the chuck of a Dremel tool, and filing the insert to carefully reduce the O.D. to fit the insert recess diameter of the steel Rolex bezel.

To get the fit just right so the insert fit the bezel recess snugly so it snapped into place with a friction fit, I checked the diameter frequently with a digital caliper during the filing. While this worked well for the aluminum aftermarket inserts, I made several (very expensive) attempts to use the same technique on true ceramic aftermarket inserts. On the first attempt, the insert shattered when I tried to press it into the bezel recess. It was a disaster; I knew ceramic is very brittle (poor ductility) and I tried to be careful, but failed miserably in this first attempt:

Not to be dissuaded, I tried two more times using an industrial diamond coated file. Both times, the ceramic inserts chipped along the diameter as I was filing.

For my fourth try, I ordered a very fine grit diamond file. I decided if this didn't work, I'd abandon the project and be happy with my anodized aluminum Rolex inserts and the faux ceramic aluminum insert I'd been using for two years.

The new fine grit file worked! No shattering or chipping, and the filed surface was smooth and shiny. As I was filing, I noticed the filings were a very fine powder compared to my previous efforts. I had finally nailed down the process.

EUREKA!

[0-60]

Originally Posted by Stan Cooper

EDIT- Please forgive the first sentence (run-on). I tried to edit it, but then it made even less sense.

Nearly two years ago, I posted (post 2096 in this thread) photos and a description of modifying an aftermarket faux ceramic aluminum bezel insert to fit the bezel of my 16710 GMT II by shaving a fraction of a millimeter off of the 38.0mm outside diameter of the aftermarket insert using a fixture I had made by a local machine shop for $35 to keep the insert centered and secure while using the fixture inserted into the chuck of a Dremel tool, and filing the insert to carefully reduce the O.D. to fit the insert recess diameter of the steel Rolex bezel.

To get the fit just right so the insert fit the bezel recess snugly so it snapped into place with a friction fit, I checked the diameter frequently with a digital caliper during the filing. While this worked well for the aluminum aftermarket inserts, I made several (very expensive) attempts to use the same technique on true ceramic aftermarket inserts. On the first attempt, the insert shattered when I tried to press it into the bezel recess. It was a disaster; I knew ceramic is very brittle (poor ductility) and I tried to be careful, but failed miserably in this first attempt:

Not to be dissuaded, I tried two more times using an industrial diamond coated file. Both times, the ceramic inserts chipped along the diameter as I was filing.

For my fourth try, I ordered a very fine grit diamond file. I decided if this didn't work, I'd abandon the project and be happy with my anodized aluminum Rolex inserts and the faux ceramic aluminum insert I'd been using for two years.

The new fine grit file worked! No shattering or chipping, and the filed surface was smooth and shiny. As I was filing, I noticed the filings were a very fine powder compared to my previous efforts. I had finally nailed down the process.

EUREKA!

Nice one


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[Johny]

Originally Posted by Stan Cooper

EDIT- Please forgive the first sentence (run-on). I tried to edit it, but then it made even less sense.

Nearly two years ago, I posted (post 2096 in this thread) photos and a description of modifying an aftermarket faux ceramic aluminum bezel insert to fit the bezel of my 16710 GMT II by shaving a fraction of a millimeter off of the 38.0mm outside diameter of the aftermarket insert using a fixture I had made by a local machine shop for $35 to keep the insert centered and secure while using the fixture inserted into the chuck of a Dremel tool, and filing the insert to carefully reduce the O.D. to fit the insert recess diameter of the steel Rolex bezel.

To get the fit just right so the insert fit the bezel recess snugly so it snapped into place with a friction fit, I checked the diameter frequently with a digital caliper during the filing. While this worked well for the aluminum aftermarket inserts, I made several (very expensive) attempts to use the same technique on true ceramic aftermarket inserts. On the first attempt, the insert shattered when I tried to press it into the bezel recess. It was a disaster; I knew ceramic is very brittle (poor ductility) and I tried to be careful, but failed miserably in this first attempt:

Not to be dissuaded, I tried two more times using an industrial diamond coated file. Both times, the ceramic inserts chipped along the diameter as I was filing.

For my fourth try, I ordered a very fine grit diamond file. I decided if this didn't work, I'd abandon the project and be happy with my anodized aluminum Rolex inserts and the faux ceramic aluminum insert I'd been using for two years.

The new fine grit file worked! No shattering or chipping, and the filed surface was smooth and shiny. As I was filing, I noticed the filings were a very fine powder compared to my previous efforts. I had finally nailed down the process.

EUREKA!

Very nice.

[Essray]

I’ve wanted to do something like this to my 5 digit sub. But I wanted to source an appropriate sized 12 hour bezel. I have no need for a divers bezel. But if I could get a 12 hour….


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[Filipão]

Bleu on a Lunette Bleu.

[HerbertPhillips]

Do you still have this 1675/8 gmt?

[RustyW]

Originally Posted by Number3

Looks great. Who did you use to remove the cyclops?

I had LA WatchWorks swap the crystal for me. I still have the original crystal to swap back to original specs if needed.

I have read that removing the cyclops from the SD 43 is not possible. The cyclops is affixed some new way with an indent in the crystal where it is seated. This was the workaround that was decided on and I am very happy with it.

[baumare]

My Daytona 16523 Zenith on a Jublee bracelet...

IMG_0375 2.jpg

[Number3]

Originally Posted by RustyW

I had LA WatchWorks swap the crystal for me. I still have the original crystal to swap back to original specs if needed.

I have read that removing the cyclops from the SD 43 is not possible. The cyclops is affixed some new way with an indent in the crystal where it is seated. This was the workaround that was decided on and I am very happy with it.

[ChronoSloth]

Originally Posted by baumare

My Daytona 16523 Zenith on a Jublee bracelet...

Attachment 1343406

Thank you for posting that two-combo, been thinking about it for several months but couldn’t find photos from anyone who had done it. Think it would fit in with my collection?

[GrantD]

Deleted

[doyall]

After perusing only part of this thread and thinking maybe I could mod my watch more to the needs of my current situation while waiting on the appropriate "OEM" model to become available, I got to wondering ... is there a parts cross-reference/compatibility chart that shows what non-mechanical part works on what different watch (e.g., "X" dial fits "Y" case, etc.)? I would certainly not want to go willy-nilly buying parts just to find they do not work. As the possible combinations seem endless, I doubt such a thing could realistically be done but I ask anyway and am prepared to be flamed for doing so.

[Stan Cooper]

P-serial 2001 Ref. 16710 with aftermarket VTNR ceramic bezel insert. This rounds out my bezel insert collection.

[DLRIDES]

Rolex blasphemy I guess ………………. purist will lose their minds, a few will understand. Old school western style scroll hammer/chisel and hand push craftsmanship. It’s been a multi year decision that all started by a watch posted in this thread …………………………. coming very soon !



Sample :

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/agaVwdMAd94


FLAME AWAY ! lol

[GrantD]

114060 and 116610LN with a Hulk bezel



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