Evolution of 18k 93150 bracelet?

[GeoPa58]

Through an "early inheritance," I've just come into a 1979 ref: 1680/8 Submariner. Part of the arrangement is that I'm supposed to wear and enjoy it, so I need to have the bracelet resized. I believe 2-3 links on the oyster bracelet will need to be removed.

The 18k 93150 bracelet presently has six links on each side, plus the dive extension on the 12-side. There are visible pin heads (?) connecting several links, visible only from the crown-side view, but not the opposite side. Counting from the case, the visible pins (?) connect links 5-4 and 6-5 on the 12-side, and links 4-3, 5-4, and 6-5 on the 6-side.

Is this a typical or normal construction for the 1979 version of this bracelet? (I've read about solid links and, more recently, visible screws.) I have no reason to think that this bracelet is not original or that it has been modified. The person I received it from has had it since 1983 and it's hard to believe it would have required modification in its first four years of use.

Thoughts about these pins (?) and advice about resizing appreciated. I feel very lucky to own a watch like this and want to do it right.

[Haywood_Milton]

It won't be a 93150 as that is the reference for the stainless steel variant of the bracelet.

Early versions of the 18ct Oyster Fliplock did indeed have sturdy pins held in by friction, rather than screws.

I'm sure that all members would love to see a picture of the dial for interest, so that we may congratulate you on your "early inheritance!"

Insta : haywood_milton_rolex

[zapokee]

Very nice! As per Haywood, dial photo please.

You can just resize the bracelet using the holes on the clasp - you've got five spare holes there, so unless you have gorilla wrists it should be OK. No need to mess with the bracelet links.

All you need is a toothpick to push the clasp pin in to remove it, then pop the pin back in a different clasp hole as appropriate. There are plenty of YouTube vids on it.

Or take it to any jeweler if you don't feel confident. It's a two-minute job.

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by zapokee

You can just resize the bracelet using the holes on the clasp - you've got five spare holes there, so unless you have gorilla wrists it should be OK. No need to mess with the bracelet links.

Thanks. I've been down that road already. The dive extension makes the last three holes unusable -- as shown, it's as far as it can go. (Well, it could go one more, but that puts a hinge of the dive extension under a clasp hinge, rendering it unusable -- and still too large.) No, some links have to go.

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton

I'm sure that all members would love to see a picture of the dial for interest, so that we may congratulate you on your "early inheritance!"

Should that be a separate post? Well, here's a quick photo, sidelit, with a reflection of my phone in the crystal. Will try to improve later.

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton

It won't be a 93150 as that is the reference for the stainless steel variant of the bracelet.

Thanks very much for the info. Any chance you would know the reference for the 18k bracelet, or where I could find it? It would be interesting to know if Rolex shops can still obtain parts for this bracelet and make an authorized adjustment.

[Tools]

Great looking watch.

The pins press out, and are then pressed back in. You should be able to find an AD with a watchmaker on staff with the proper tool to do the pressing.

Naturally, if you are talented and have the proper size punch, you could do it yourself.

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton

Early versions of the 18ct Oyster Fliplock did indeed have sturdy pins held in by friction, rather than screws.

This is great information. Any idea where I could find out more about these early versions and how to service them? A Rolex dealer told me yesterday that this was non-standard construction (mentioned "solder" on the closed end of the pin) and offered to have their jeweler drill them out and ... I ran.

Based on what I know of the provenance, I think it's unlikely that any work was previously done on the bracelet. Suggestions about how to have it resized in a way that is true to the watch would be greatly appreciated.

[baumare]

The early 1680/8 came with the 9290/8 bracelet with pins, the diver extension should read Patented or Pat. Pending, depends on the date.

Pins can be push it out by a good watchmaker,

[baumare]

Originally Posted by GeoPa58

Should that be a separate post? Well, here's a quick photo, sidelit, with a reflection of my phone in the crystal. Will try to improve later.

Very nice 1680/8 with the I of SWISS integrated and the open six on the 660ft.

[baumare]

Sorry I just saw that the pin are in one side only...

That's strange, looks like they have been covered...

Screen Shot 2022-01-26 at 12.14.47 PM.jpg

[KY..]

Lucky you, very cool 1680/8 and I love that it has a period correct bezel insert.

[interestedwatcher]

Gorgeous watch.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by GeoPa58

...but that puts a hinge of the dive extension under a clasp hinge, rendering it unusable -- and still too large.) No, some links have to go.

Oh, I'd thought it was too small rather than too big.

So you need the bracelet to be shorter. Eesh, that's going to be a challenge. Why on earth would somebody weld the pins in??

Looking at baumare's close-up photo above, you can see the remnants of the holes where they've been covered. They might just need a very shallow drilling to reveal the pins and push them out.

I bet the guys at the LA outfits can do it, if anybody can.

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by zapokee

Looking at baumare's close-up, you can see the remnants of the holes where they've been covered. They might just need a very shallow drilling to reveal the pins and push them out.

I bet the guys at the LA outfits can do it, if anybody can.

Thanks all, for the information about the 9290/8. I appreciate it.

I'm getting a sense that the bracelet was likely modified very early, between 1979 and 1983. If the ends of the pins were soldered in (say), it seems like I am looking at some kind of perhaps tricky (?) "restoration" on the way to resizing.

If anyone has a suggestion regarding the best way to go about that, I'd be pleased to have some advice. (I don't know who the "LA outfits" are...)

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by GeoPa58

I don't know who the "LA outfits" are...

Los Angeles Watch Works
Rolliworks

They're the recognized go-to guys for vintage restoration.

[Dries]

The pins can be push out by watchmaker. Here is mine links




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[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by zapokee

Los Angeles Watch Works
Rolliworks

They're the recognized go-to guys for vintage restoration.

Tho they’re not all LA guys anymore, Rolliworks is moving to Miami as of March (yayyy!)

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by Dries

The pins can be push out by watchmaker. Here is mine links.

Thanks for the great photos, very helpful. (I assume from 9290/8 bracelet.)

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by zapokee

Los Angeles Watch Works
Rolliworks

They're the recognized go-to guys for vintage restoration.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm still trying to sort this out, also getting some advice from a couple of ADs. One thought is to have an in-house goldsmith / jeweler address it. Not yet sure if that would be a "restoration" (with pins) or "repair" (with fashioned rivets) ...

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by Dries

The pins can be push out by watchmaker. Here is mine links

Any chance that you know, or have calipers to measure, the diameter of those pins? Thanks!

[GeoPa58]

Originally Posted by zapokee

... you can see the remnants of the holes where they've been covered. They might just need a very shallow drilling to reveal the pins and push them out.

That's a very interesting idea. If the pin ends really were soldered, I wonder how far the solder might penetrate in a press-fit joint.