SIHH 2019 potential new release by AP

[edo]

This PC looks like aventurine dial on Speedmaster Moonphase...

Agree with some comments that case looks great, and considering AP master finishing on the cases no doubt it will look spectacular... There will be enough depth between week (on PC) tachy (on chrono) minutes (on three hander) scale and the dial for nice 3D feel...

But two things bother me... lug design looks like metal bracelets will not have best fit, and hands looks too dressy...

[AK797]

Originally Posted by singe89

This looks really interesting. I like the subtle RO octagon integrated into the case but I was really wanting to see what the were going to do with the dials. Would they use the tappiserrie dial or a more traditional dial. This looks like they are using the color scheme for the moon phase. Could be very very interesting.

Agree, looks interesting. Dial reminds me of a bargain PP Sky Moon.

[Starwalker]

Originally Posted by karasus

If I had to make a theory on AP's product plan it would be: VC/Lange/Patek/Journe none of them have a high end ultra-thin automatic splits seconds chrono. The only ultra high end ultra-thin automatic splits second chronograph movement is made by F.Piguet, Caliber 1186. The main reason for this is probably because most VC/Lange/Patek/Journe which is some derivative of leminia manual chronos, the design was very good but its on the thicker side. Putting an automatic winding mechanism would make their current chrono lineup 15+mm thick, which is sea dweller thickness so probably not acceptable. The base F.Piguet 1185 automatic chronograph movement is only 3.9mm thick, for comparison the similar Patek CH 28-520 automatic chronograph in the 5980s is 6.6mm almost twice the thickness of the 1185.

AP probably started using the 1185 (currently in RO chronos) from F.Piguet and hoped to get the 1186 later but F.Piguet(Blancpain) was bought by Swatch. Swatch most likely blocked the sale of newer movement types to competitors. Biver talks about how he could not get the 1185 for Hublot, how in his opinion it is the best automatic chronograph movement (its objectively the thinnest to date) and how it can run continuously without accuracy and amplitude loss. So basically after Swatch bought F.Piguet AP was stuck with the base 1185 instead of the more advanced 1186 4mm thick chrono with rattrapante module to build upon.

If AP wanted to build cool new watches and designs they would need an inhouse movement, and now we have their new movement + line to test it out. Additionally this movement could be an ultrathin automatic chrono that rivals the 1185. It will most likely also be a platform for AP to build their own version of the 1186 splits seconds ultra thin. Actually AP is the only one of the holy trinity that doesn't make a splits seconds chrono, so this could be the start fof that development. But hey its just speculation so take everything with a grain of salt.

this is great info! something i never knew before, do you have more info or sources! would be great to delve into it!

[HKDaytona]

Looks good

[benlee]

Originally Posted by Johntee050

Attachment 1006258
What do you guys think?

Purely from this pic, not a fan. It seems like AP design this watch trying to be both sporty and dressy at the same time and end up being neither.

My perception may change upon seeing actual so I reserved final judgement.

[singe89]

Originally Posted by karasus

. Actually AP is the only one of the holy trinity that doesn't make a splits seconds chrono, so this could be the start fof that development. But hey its just speculation so take everything with a grain of salt.

All great info but aren't their grande comps split second chronos? And I dont know if the Lap Timer is a true split second chrono since it functions slightly different but I would think the extra complexity would qualify.

To see a lower end/more affordable split second chrono would be nice.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by karasus

If I had to make a theory on AP's product plan it would be: VC/Lange/Patek/Journe none of them have a high end ultra-thin automatic splits seconds chrono. The only ultra high end ultra-thin automatic splits second chronograph movement is made by F.Piguet, Caliber 1186. The main reason for this is probably because most VC/Lange/Patek/Journe which is some derivative of leminia manual chronos, the design was very good but its on the thicker side. Putting an automatic winding mechanism would make their current chrono lineup 15+mm thick, which is sea dweller thickness so probably not acceptable. The base F.Piguet 1185 automatic chronograph movement is only 3.9mm thick, for comparison the similar Patek CH 28-520 automatic chronograph in the 5980s is 6.6mm almost twice the thickness of the 1185.

does the thinness matter if its not taken advantage of? the end result is a ROC case 1.2mm thinner than a 5980 so they lose almost all of that advantage in movement thinness with the case not being thin also. AP could have made the ROC substantially thinner if they wanted i would guess.

Unless its a dress piece i really don't think people want a thin watch anyway they want some heft and sportiness. Its specifically why i prefer the 5990 to the 5711 or 5712

AP does embrace the chunky look more than Patek and there are more AP models i like than from Patek as a result.

[holdtime]

Why?
When AP can not supply enough watches like it is.why create a new design ?
Does not make sense to me.

[Superburrito]

Hmm, so far this new line has zero interest from me. Hope I'm wrong.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by holdtime

Why?
When AP can not supply enough watches like it is.why create a new design ?
Does not make sense to me.

i would suspect its extremely dangerous to rely too heavily on one case shape and a modified case shape of the original for probably 95% of sales in the RO and ROO. If it was a typical round shape like a Rolex ok, but its very unique and it could fall out of favor. Just a thought.

[masterserg]

I like it.

[karasus]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

does the thinness matter if its not taken advantage of? the end result is a ROC case 1.2mm thinner than a 5980 so they lose almost all of that advantage in movement thinness with the case not being thin also. AP could have made the ROC substantially thinner if they wanted i would guess.

Unless its a dress piece i really don't think people want a thin watch anyway they want some heft and sportiness. Its specifically why i prefer the 5990 to the 5711 or 5712

AP does embrace the chunky look more than Patek and there are more AP models i like than from Patek as a result.

I would think that it would allow them to keep the current thickness and add a display caseback.

ROC currently has a solid case back, once they move onto the new movement I think we will see a display case (thicker than solid) but with an overall thinner actual case, which will give similar dimensions to the current.

Heft doesn't always correlate with thickness, there are other factors such as total metal used, types of metal, and case space between movement and case. 44mm ceramic ROO is going to be light despite the size and thickness. But yes the 5712 is light, I had one for a while didn't like the light weight despite the watch being very beautiful. Went total 180 and got a 25721ST that weights over half a pound Now I can do mini curls/workout a bit while wearing my watch. (Believe its around the same weight as a white gold Rolex SkyDweller)

Side note: had the chance to try a 5740G its weight is perfect and excellent fit.

[GoingPlaces]

This is quite interesting. This case has some nice detail on it that sets itself apart. With the proper finishing it could really look nice. I like it so far, dress and sport.


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[stevec0]

I was in boutique yesterday trying on ROC. I came to realize that 41mm is too large for my wrist and that 39mm fits perfectly (tried on 15202 gold for size). I told the salesperson, too bad they don’t make the ROC in 39mm anymore...he said “be careful what you wish for...I think you will be happy come SIHH”...hope that hint is the real deal.

[VFA]

Can anyone repost the leaked image? Was only a PC leaked? Seems it has the old PC movement.

[karasus]

Originally Posted by Starwalker

this is great info! something i never knew before, do you have more info or sources! would be great to delve into it!

Here is the video about the F.Piguet 1185 featuring Mr.Biver when he talks about chronographs, what caused the move to in house and how Swatch would not sell him the movement for Hublot:
https://youtu.be/4wigSZSxOkE?t=3962

Patek CH28-520: https://watchbase.com/patek-philippe...er/ch-28-520-c
F.Piguet : https://www.cliniquehorlogere.ch/fr/...t-fp-1185.html

Article on history of F.Piguet:
http://raulhorology.com/2013/11/fred...-calibre-1180/

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by VFA

Can anyone repost the leaked image? Was only a PC leaked? Seems it has the old PC movement.

Funny, images were previously posted on this thread but seem to have been removed. Understandable. Yes, we only saw the image of the PC.

[vman]

Not a fan. Seems like AP _may_ be trying to go after thew lower end of the market by appealing to the new enthusiasts (e.g., Vacheron 56). If so, I'll pass.

[jnelson3097]

I posted the leaked image on TimeZone yesterday and it was removed due to copyright issues.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by vman

Not a fan. Seems like AP _may_ be trying to go after thew lower end of the market by appealing to the new enthusiasts (e.g., Vacheron 56). If so, I'll pass.

Unlikely in my opinion, but we’ll have to wait and see


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[Burlington]

Originally Posted by Watcheroo

Unlikely in my opinion, but we’ll have to wait and see


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Agree - they have no reason to do that for lower priced models, if anything it will be pushing the market up I think.

[CEWUSA]

Heard from a little birdie this will only be released in gold at first.

[uracowman]

Slightly off topic but while we are on the subject of the 4302 movement, does anyone know if a Royal Oak Chrono will ever be released with a display back?

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by uracowman

does anyone know if a Royal Oak Chrono will ever be released with a display back?

Yes for sure. I’d bet my life on it. When? Idk

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by CEWUSA

Heard from a little birdie this will only be released in gold at first.

I heard the same


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[thomaspp]

This looks awful! Sheesh


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[Burlington]

Originally Posted by CEWUSA

Heard from a little birdie this will only be released in gold at first.

Doesn’t surprise me - AP stated the intention of selling more PM watches a while back.

Better margin on the same number of pieces sold.

[Watcheroo]

AP is revealing more tomorrow. As per their website. Looking forward :))

[Watcheroo]

Updating with the latest reveal. AP released a few videos on their website and one of them had a few quick views of the new release. Here are a few screen grabs:

















So from the looks of it, the patent sketches were pretty accurate. Also, the dial seems to be highly polished, the sapphire looks slightly curved, and it looks like they are releasing a steel version.

I can’t wait to see it in the flesh!

[dwatcher]

This would be a big one for 2019, i think the design application matches with the teaser on the AP homepage