20mm -- or maybe 19mm?

[analogjack]

My Explorer 1016, purchased in 1968, currently lacks a proper bracelet. The 7206/58 was my original (and the appropriate band combination) and I'd prefer going with that bracelet. However, I'm not a serious collector or watch-purist like many of you folks: I'm just a guy who wants to know what time it is -- and maybe with some style -- hence the decision to resurrect and overhaul the Explorer after its long retirement in a drawer.
My jeweler told me that using a 19mm band was an option for this watch, and 19mm 7205s are available at significantly lower asking prices than for the 7206. I'm assuming that some solution on endlinks could be found, and there'd be half a millimeter lateral slop on the pins.
This forum's recommendation will probably be to go with the 7206 regardless of the cost difference, but how bad would it be mechanically -- or even philosophically -- to have a 19mm bracelet on a 1016?
No burning at the stake for suggestions of heresy, please. I'm new.
Thanks.

[Dan S]

Your jeweler is not correct about using a 7205 with 19mm endlinks on a 1016. There would be a significant gap and it would look terrible. If you're concerned about budget, you can use an oyster bracelet instead of a rivet bracelet, vintage or modern, but the endlinks need to be 20mm.

[TuRo]

Dan's right. There is a little trick I use i if I want a slightly lower budget bracelet fix for a period or something a little less substantal....cant remember what works, but along the lines of fitting say a 19mm USA oval or 7835 or 78350 along with
accompanying 20mm end links. The 1mm variance between e/l and bracelet is quite subtle.

The 19mm end link in 20mm lug is to be avoided for aesthetics and chance it could wiggle and wear serial/model engravings.

[MrBlobby]

I agree with the above. If budget really is an issues then don’t forget that explorers look great on lots of different straps.

https://bulangandsons.eu/blogs/strap...-1016-explorer

That’s got to be better than buying the wrong bracelet.

[analogjack]

Thanks for the sage advice, Mr Blobby, TuRo and DanS. Confirms what I'd thought -- but hoped I was wrong. It's going to have to be a judgement call on where to go on this bracelet -- and I like the presentation especially on the Bulang option -- great idea giving a visual presentation of alternative solutions on a specific watch.
I'm into this Explorer for the initial price of $175 or so in 1968 -- and another $2750 to have it overhauled (including the markup of a high-end AD who sent it to his Rolex-qualified repair shop.) It's not a question of what I can afford -- but a question of how much I'm willing to pump into an ideal solution -- a 7620/58 at several thousand USD -- or a similar look from a 7836/ or 78360/580 at one to several thousand USD.
As I've said, I'm not a collector, but I happen to be the temporary custodian of a beautiful watch which -- just on its own -- deserves to be re-connected with a period-appropriate and an aesthetically appropriate bracelet as part of my legacy to my kids.
Thanks for helping me on this trip.

[Dan S]

Yes, even if you have no problems affording it, the price of a good 7206 can give you sticker-shock. It's a judgement call, and I'd suggest waiting a few months and see how you feel about it later.

I tend to like watches on period-correct bracelets, and rivet bracelets are great, but there's really no reason to be dogmatic about it. A 7836 or 78360 would be fine. TBH, the real-world difference between a 7206 and a 7836 is pretty subtle for most people.

Not to open a new can of worms, but there is also the option of a C&I rivet bracelet, which will be substantially less expensive than a 7206 and looks virtually identical. It may even have been the original bracelet, if you purchased the watch in the US. However, the end-links may be a little harder to fit.

[MrBlobby]

And don’t forget that whilst the watch might have cost $175 all those years ago it would probably cost you $15,000 plus to replace it now now (for a 60s gilt 1016). The bracelet might seem expensive but it is a relatively small part of the value.

I think Dan’s advice to take a little time to think is good.

[TimeLord2]

Is your original 7206/58 still in your possession and just too worn to wear with the watch? If it is, then you can have the original bracelet overhauled. www.rolliworks.com

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Is your original 7206/58 still in your possession and just too worn to wear with the watch? If it is, then you can have the original bracelet overhauled. www.rolliworks.com

This is the third thread the OP has started to address this question, so some of these issues have been discussed previously. Obviously it's a bit confusing to have the discussion so fragmented, but that's where we are.

I believe he mentioned that he does not have access to the bracelet and that it cannot be recovered. I also believe that does not really know for sure that it was a 7206/58, but after looking at photos, recalls that it was a rivet bracelet. Which is why I mentioned the C&I. Most people probably would not distinguish between a 7206 and a C&I.

Here are links to the other threads:
https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=932394
https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=931733

[analogjack]

Okay, sorry about the fragmentation. Had seemed like separate issues to me, but I'm new. DanS's capsulation is right. Original bracelet was given away and is long gone. Purchased the watch in Singapore, so I guess it's unlikely that the bracelet was C&I -- although that looks like a very interesting alternative for a replacement. Thanks for that idea.
Advice to take it slow is taken. Will keep an eye out for a 7206, 7836 or 78360, but nothing rushed. Explorer seems happy enough on an inexpensive black rubber band for the time being.
No more threads. Thanks for all the stick'n'rudder. Newbie out.

[Dan S]

There are some differences between the C&I and 7206 bracelets, but they are superficially similar because of the rivets. Here are some photos of a C&I (left) and two styles of 7206. Note that 7206 bracelets before 1963 or so are unmarked (no "7206" on last link). Some of these have been restored, so some of the rivets have been replaced, but they are more or less correct.

#58 endlinks are quite similar to the #80 endlinks shown, e.g. they are made for cases with lug holes so they have no cut-outs.