"Tudor Anthology" scans: A reference guide for the 76000 & 75090 mid-size Tudor Subs

[SVC]

In a recent Reddit thread I ran across on the whether the 36mm Tudor Submariner might ever be revived, I came across some information that felt conflicting at worst incorrect and at best nuanced and unclear — for example, details around the the type of crystals that are “correct” for various references. I've found the same sort of ambiguity in other places online as well.

I was finally able to dig up some scans from Alberto Isnardi’s “Tudor Anthology,” which as far as I can tell is the most comprehensive resource there is on vintage Tudor, though I think it still pales in comparison to the literature out there on vintage Rolex or watches like the Speedmaster (correct me if I'm wrong here, though!

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tl;dr based on commentary and imagery from Isnardi’s “Tudor Anthology,” it appears that the sapphire crystal is indeed correct for the mid-size Submariner references 76000, 75090, and 75190, with the 76000 being the first Tudor sports model period to feature sapphire. However, it also appears that there were also some variants of the 76000 and 75090 that (based on catalog photos) that did also feature plexiglass crystals, so they are also likely correct, at least for certain production dates.

What seems to be clear to me at minimum, though, is that based on this reference book, the simplistic “75090 = plexiglass and 75190 = sapphire” assertion is incorrect.

More detail (and the scans from the book) are below.

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You can find the scans of pages 112 and 113 here, which cover reference 76000 (the first mid-size Submariner, introduced in 1987) as well as reference 75090, first introduced in 1990.




Of particular note would be Isnardi’s commentary on dials (e.g., early 76000 references featuring lollipop hands, as did the 76100) as well as crystals (e.g., that the “real new detail [of the 76000] is the sapphire crystal, which is fitted to a Tudor sports watch for the first time), and which carries over the 75090.

Much of what I’ve seen on the internet asserts that the 75090 only came with a plexiglass crystal and that sapphire was only introduced with the subsequent 75190, but I’ve believed that this was inadvertently extrapolated from the fact that the equivalent “big brother” 79090 did indeed have a plexi crystal. Based on “Tudor Anthology,” at least, it seems like the sapphire crystal preceded even the 75090, though, first appearing in the 76000.

That said, I wanted to provide one more scan that potentially shows that even though the sapphire crystal was clearly produced on reference 76000 and 75090 Submariners per Isnardi’s commentary, plexiglass may also be correct based on these catalog photos:



Do you see how the photo of the 76000 on the far left from the 1987-1988 catalog and the 75090 from the 1991-1992 catalog seem to feature crystals that result in what appears to be a thicker white circle around the dial, which (to my eye) may actually indicate a photo of a watch with plexiglass, given the crystal curvature?

Then, starting with the 75090 from the 1993 - 1994 catalog, that thicker white circle disappears, consistent with the look of the flat sapphire crystal. All of the subsequent 75090 and 75190 examples from the 1993-1996 and 1997-1998 catalogs then seem to feature only sapphire crystals.

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So… that’s about it from me. What does everyone think? To be completely honest, it’s sometimes so difficult to parse out what’s true or note based on hearsay, and actually having a firm reference book or article to point to is always something I find helpful (though as we all know, even those references may not always be perfectly correct.)

I’d welcome your thoughts!

[Kingsking]

I have this book and its a beautiful coffee table piece with lots of nice pictures and information but I've noticed a few things in the book that aren't correct myself.

[SVC]

Originally Posted by Kingsking

I have this book and its a beautiful coffee table piece with lots of nice pictures and information but I've noticed a few things in the book that aren't correct myself.

I'd be curious to hear if there are any particular things you'd want to point out? Also, I'd very much welcome any specific feedback you might have regarding "correct" details for these mid-size Subs!

[harry in montreal]

Strangely the jubilee in the photos is the 6248. The two 75190s I’ve owned had a different jubilee band with thinner center links. They are nice watches. More impressive than a 1601 datejust

[aba123]

thank you for sharing this, I have been wondering why almost all the 75090 for sale are with sapphire.

[cardiel]

my 75090's serial number dates it to 1988 and it has a sapphire crystal. it’s just had
it’s second service and is running like a champ.

[SVC]

Originally Posted by aba123

thank you for sharing this, I have been wondering why almost all the 75090 for sale are with sapphire.

I've found the same thing, which is precisely why I've found it confounding that certain folks online say so confidently that 75090 = plexi and 75190 = sapphire.

[TuRo]

Well if that is the case I've learnt something today .... Chapeau!

[Eph]

Interesting, I always thought the 75909 (and 79090) was plexi and the 75190 (and 79190) were sapphire. Fairly certain it's the case with the 79***, but this is news to me on the 75***.

So is the only difference then the uni-directional bezel?

[SVC]

Originally Posted by Eph

Interesting, I always thought the 75909 (and 79090) was plexi and the 75190 (and 79190) were sapphire. Fairly certain it's the case with the 79***, but this is news to me on the 75***.

So is the only difference then the uni-directional bezel?

Differences between the 75090 and 75190? There are a few, if I'm not mistaken, though someone please correct me if I'm off-base here:
- Bi-directional bezel (75090) vs. uni-directional bezel (75190)
- "Prince Oysterdate" dial text shifting to "Prince Date" text in later years (75090) vs. "Prince Date" text only (75190)
- Rolex-signed crown and case back (75090) vs. Rolex- or Tudor-signed crown and case back (75190), in line with the broader shift to distinguish the two brands more, similar to the move to stop referencing "Oyster" in Tudor models

If I'm not mistaken, the bracelets for both the 75090 and 75190 are Tudor-signed rather than Rolex-signed.

Anything I've missed?

[SVC]

Originally Posted by SVC

Differences between the 75090 and 75190? There are a few, if I'm not mistaken, though someone please correct me if I'm off-base here:
- Bi-directional bezel (75090) vs. uni-directional bezel (75190)
- "Prince Oysterdate" dial text shifting to "Prince Date" text in later years (75090) vs. "Prince Date" text only (75190)
- Rolex-signed crown and case back (75090) vs. Rolex- or Tudor-signed crown and case back (75190), in line with the broader shift to distinguish the two brands more, similar to the move to stop referencing "Oyster" in Tudor models

If I'm not mistaken, the bracelets for both the 75090 and 75190 are Tudor-signed rather than Rolex-signed.

Anything I've missed?

Oh, and one more thing I forgot to add -- the 75190 (like the 79190) offered a steel bezel option as well as additional dial color variants, like this one previously sold by Bulang & Sons: https://bulangandsons.com/products/t...nce-75190-w866