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Old 27 October 2022, 06:03 AM   #1
FloridaBill
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Patek Philippe October 2022 Releases - Boca Raton, FL

When I first heard the rumors of an upcoming October 2022 surprise release by Patek Philippe, I set a reminder on my calendar, as I wanted to see what new watch, or watches, was being released as the online buzz seemed to indicate a new Nautilus was going to be introduced.

Just to clarify my personal passion towards this hobby, I love horology, and Patek Philippe in particular, but I did not wake up at 3am EST like some people did, as at this stage of my career, I really value my sleep time and tend to get cranky if I pull an all-nighter like I easily used to do during those wonderful college years.

So, like everyone else, I was pleasantly surprised to hear the news that Patek Philippe released 8 new watches and became downright giddy when I saw that there were 4 new Nautilus releases, along with a stainless-steel world time flyback chronograph, two spectacular grand complications, and a mega delicious ladies Aquanaut chronograph.

To be perfectly honest and transparent here, when I read the initial reports, I initially thought that we are being collectively punked, or this was some late April Fool’s joke, as I was perplexed as to how Patek could launch 8 new releases with such secrecy, but I guess that is why the Swiss are much better than the Americans with keeping trade secrets.

Adding further clarification, I did not spend the day calling every Patek Philippe authorized dealer in the country to put my name on “the list” like a few people did, as I prefer to see watches in person before buying, as I am simply old school and often get out gunned by the new age lighting fast mouse clickers that tend to arbitrage watches like they are some video game or cryptocurrency.

When I heard that my local authorized dealer (Altier Jewelers in Boca Raton, Florida) had a few of the new releases in stock, I decided to drop by their store to see if I could preview any of them in person and was very excited when they informed me that they had 4 of the 8 new releases in house.

Now before everyone gets their collective panties in a twist, these bad boys are already allocated to other (not me) fortunate collectors, but you all probably could have predicted that as buying “any” Patek Philippe is, first and foremost, done based on relationships with clients as demand is far greater than supply, and that is by design, and obviously a good business practice for everyone. I am just a normal dude (baller on a budget) like most of members here, have some discretionary income, and I also enjoy fine food, fine wine, fine watches, and classic sports cars.

Without further ado, I am going to post a bunch of photos taken with my iPhone 13 and I will add some of my, highly biased, comments on the watches I previewed. I am not a professional photographer or writer, the lighting in the store is not idea for pics (lots of reflections) and capturing photos that look like the Patek website is impossible, but these are real-world photos, and I will try to describe some of the features and impact each reference had when I was able to view them.

New references previewed:
5935A - Stainless Steel, Complications
5990/1A - Stainless Steel, Nautilus
5811/1G - White Gold, Nautilus
5712/1R - Rose Gold, Nautilus
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Old 27 October 2022, 06:18 AM   #2
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Looking forward!
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Old 27 October 2022, 06:36 AM   #3
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I am going to start the party with my first review of the 5935A - Stainless Steel, Complications and the other three reviews are going to cover the Nautilus releases, that I will begin to write and upload as soon as I can (please remember that I have a real job and this is a hobby).

Stop the presses, and tell you right here...I know there are many, many online members that are Nautilus fanboys that are probably pissed I am starting with the 5935A, but this watch is simply beautiful, stunning, classy, and had extremely strong wrist presence. There is no modesty or hiding this bad boy as it is highly visible from across the room. In fact, most everyone in the boutique that day was commenting on how stunning this watch was and how the light danced off the carbon motif opaline rose gilt dial. Then suspending disbelief for a second (no pun intended), this is a stainless steel watch, has a world time feature, is a chronograph, and includes two calfskin straps (my favorite) and fold-over clasp.

The 5935A looks great, feel great, and has a nice balance of size, proportions and weight that make it a dress watch or a daily wear. I think it is perfect for a frequent business or leisure traveler and would look nice in first class or a private jet. I am not sure it goes well with shorts and sandals, but if you want to rock that look, make sure your are not wearing those stupid looking Yeezy Foam Runner or Slides.

I own a 6119r and I really love that reference in rose gold, but the 5935A is just another level of complexity and innovation and just kaboom rockstar moves that will please anyone lucky enough to buy one. As I have stated many times before, the professional photos on the websites and watch magazine forums are taken by pros under perfect lighting and oftentimes a watch will look very different in person than in pics, some are better in person and some are better in photos (especially the 6119r vs 6119g).

Verdict - the 5935A is a Winner!

Reference 5935A-001
Stainless Steel, Complications
Self-winding World Time flyback chronograph
Carbon motif in the center of the opaline rose gilt dial
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones.
Two calfskin straps – grained taupe and beige with a nubuck finish
Fold-over clasp
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
$63,870
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5935a2.jpg (198.7 KB, 1923 views)
File Type: jpg 5935a11.jpg (108.6 KB, 1884 views)
File Type: jpg 5935a3.jpg (216.3 KB, 1896 views)
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Old 27 October 2022, 06:46 AM   #4
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Here is a professional photo of the 5935 that is done under perfect lighting, placement, angle, photoshopped, etc.

However, this reference really looks just as specular in person as it does in the pro level photos.
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Old 27 October 2022, 08:00 AM   #5
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Hey FloridaBill, thanks a lot for taking the time to share with us you experience. It's very enjoyable and useful. The live experience is mandatory to judge a watch fairly.

The 5935A looks to be a splendid model (I already loved the smaller blue one as well as the green P that I tried as well). I think the casual/classical line-up PP released over the last years, since the Pilot, are competing very nicely with the Nautilus/Aquanaut in the casual segment.

I recognize myself in your first post and think that the salesperson I deal with recognises this appreciation of the brand, without being the top list spender. I have time.

Thanks :)
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Old 27 October 2022, 06:55 PM   #6
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Nice little summary of your impressions. Thanks alot!
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Old 28 October 2022, 12:28 AM   #7
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Thanks for the detailed write up and time spent. It is wonderful to read. Look forward to your next review. Let me whip out the popcorn first.

For this 5935, I love the black hands. Always do.
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Old 28 October 2022, 09:47 AM   #8
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Here is my first review for one of the three brand new Nautilus releases, and drum roll please, the one lots of people are drooling over, the 5990/1A - Stainless Steel, Nautilus.

What can I say about a watch that has soooooo much press written about it and soooooo much hype other than to simple state the obvious.....this is one bad ass watch that is so close to perfection, I simply can't point out any negatives. In fact, the only bummer about this release is that every authorized dealer will have at least 10 high value VIP clients requesting this reference, there will be another 100 established clients wanting this one, and of course, there will be another 1,000 random calls from people all across the world looking to be added to "the list" hoping that some miracle will occur within their lifetime.

Truth be told, I have always loved the Aquanaut over the Nautilus, and I was never a dude that drooled over the Nautilus, but....I may need to get a napkin to wipe the drool off my chin as this watch is about as kick ass as I have ever seen. Patek has designed an almost perfect watch with perfect complications and included the must have, or most desired, features that customers are wanting such as a beautiful blue dial (check), chronograph (check), a travel time (check), stainless steel (double check), analog date (check), local and home time indicators (check), steel bracelet with new adjustable clasp (check), and 40.5mm size (check).

The features of the watch as so well balanced, and look so cool, that I have no ideas or suggestions to improve this watch for future releases. The wrist presence is strong, but not overpowering, the watch is very light on the wrist and I consider that a very good thing. the back of the watch reveals the beautiful gears and jewels that is art all by itself.

All in all, this is Patek Philippe perfection in a steel Nautilus that will forever be in demand. This will be a watch that everyone will want, but only a few will ever own. This watch is also something the the general public will probably never notice, or fully appreciate, and they will have no idea how rare this watch is, and how rare it will be to see one on a wrist in the wild.

My ONLY hope for this watch is that whoever is fortunate (not lucky) enough to acquire this amazing piece of mechanical beauty, is that they actually wear the watch and not hide it in some locked safe in their house or bank vault. In fact, Patek should create some agreement or signed contract that the buyer of this watch needs to send a "proof of wear" photo to the authorized dealer once a month for the first year and then once a quarter for the second year with bonus points if they also post on social media.

Verdict: the 5990/1A is a major, game changing Winner

Reference 5990/1A
Stainless Steel, Nautilus
Travel Time + Flyback chronograph
Blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation
Three complications: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date at 12 o'clock which is synchronized with local time.
Steel bracelet with fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.53 mm
$68,600
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_6163.jpg (187.5 KB, 1511 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6154.jpg (180.1 KB, 1511 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6161.jpg (189.9 KB, 1518 views)
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Old 28 October 2022, 11:53 AM   #9
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What a piece, 5990a blue.

5990a is a class!!!
Here mine, proud owner of one..
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File Type: jpg IMG_9458.jpg (100.8 KB, 1488 views)
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Old 29 October 2022, 03:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniqueMR View Post
What a piece, 5990a blue.

5990a is a class!!!
Here mine, proud owner of one..
Huge congrats to you....this is wonderful reference and I am GLAD to see you wearing it.
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Old 29 October 2022, 06:39 AM   #11
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Here is a professional photo of the 5990/1A that none of us are fully able to capture on our cell phones, no matter...this really is an amazing reference that looks spectacular and is well balanced on the wrist when viewed in person.
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Old 30 October 2022, 02:07 AM   #12
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My next review of Patek Philippe's October 2022 greatest hits is the 5811/1G - White Gold, Nautilus.

This, for me, so far, is the most beautiful "blue" watch dial I have ever seen on any reference. The blue sunburst dial is so MUCH more vibrant than the 5990/1A, I was wondering why they did not use this color for both watches. I live in South Florida and spend a lot of time near the ocean and often travel to the Caribbean, and this watch best captures the essence of what sailors mean when they use the phrase ocean blue.

It would not surprise me if there is an employee at Patek Philippe who's sole job is to travel to the Bahamas with a bunch of Pantone color cards to match the exact ocean blue specifically chosen for this 5811 reference. In fact, some of you may argue with me on this one, ignoring any hype or perceived rarity or market values, I would choose the blue-sunburst 5811 reference over the Tiffany-Blue 5711.

The next thing that I loved about the 5811 was the case evolution from 40mm to 41mm and although that may seem like an insignificant difference, it really improves the look and feel of this watch. Everyone knows the 5711 reference has a cult following with many celebrities and athletes, but it looks a tad small on some of them, and I will guarantee you, most of them will probably choose the larger case in the 5811 over the 5711.

Because the 5881/1G is offered in white gold, it is significantly heavier than a steel watch. Because there are no 5811 in steel to compare, I had the 5990/1A in stainless side-by-side and the weigh difference was noticeable. I am not quite sure which weight I prefer, and I am not even certain that would be a major factor for me, as obtaining either reference would be a huge win and make any Patek Philippe connoisseur extremely happy.

I did not try out the new lockable adjustment bracelet system, but the dealer showed me how it works and I am guessing that every Patek owner will eventually want this feature on their own watches as it is a quick and elegant feature that offers gradual size adjustments for clients that need them.

Verdict: the 5811/1G is not only a Winner, it will become the #1 watch everyone wants to obtain

5811/1G
White Gold, Nautilus
2022 evolution of the legendary 5711 watch
blue sunburst dial with a black gradation
water-resistant to 120 meters
secured fold-over clasp
new lockable adjustment system
new pull-out piece lever system that replaces the split stem
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 8.2 mm
$69,790
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_6158.jpg (126.3 KB, 1241 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6160.jpg (248.3 KB, 1231 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6171.jpg (196.5 KB, 1234 views)
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Old 30 October 2022, 02:32 AM   #13
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Thanks for sharing your impressions of the new watches. I think for me personally I would go with the 5990 if I had the option.
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Old 30 October 2022, 07:39 AM   #14
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Here is a professional photo of the 5811/1G
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Old 30 October 2022, 07:41 AM   #15
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Thank you for the reviews and photos!
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Old 30 October 2022, 07:56 AM   #16
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Excellent reviews, pics..
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Old 30 October 2022, 09:06 AM   #17
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Thanks again for the feedback FloridaBill, Patek really has something for dial craftmanship, certainly due to their origins as dial makers.
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Old 31 October 2022, 06:08 AM   #18
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For my final Nautilus review, the pièce de résistance, the 5712/1R - Rose Gold, Nautilus

This watch looks like something that belongs in a museum, or something that belongs in Fort Knox, as it is so easy on the eyes. This watch is classy today, will be hot next decade, and will be admired and coveted for at least another 100 years. There is something special about the Patek Philippe rose gold appearance that other watch manufactures don’t offer. The color is so deep and rich, that is almost looks liquid or wet to the touch.

The brown sunburst dial has a slight black gradation, and just like the other Nautilus watches, it takes on different appearances depending on how you angle the dial in the light. This reference has three complications: analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator. I have never owned a mechanical watch with a power-reserve indicator and if it works well, then I think it is a cool and useful addition and would like to see this on more references. I also like the fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.

Personally, this specific watch is harder for me to post an honest review as I don’t own any gold metal bracelet watches and feel this watch is best suited for formal dress occasions, like attending a red carpet event or wedding. Perhaps it is just me and my casual lifestyle, but this would not be my first pick as a daily wear as compared to the 5990, 5811, or any Aquanaut. On the other hand, I am sure celebrities will LOVE this reference.

One thing that bothers me a little bit, and perhaps is it only me or my inner OCD, but the three inner asymmetrical dials for the complications looks unbalanced to me, especially when you compare it to something like a Daytona or Nautilus 5740 that have perfect symmetry. I do realize that this is my opinion alone, so perhaps it is me as I am sure hundreds of others signed off on this design. Additionally, the gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating looks fantastic in the daytime, but in the dark, the markers are missing at position 4, 5, 7 and that would begin to bother me as my brain prefers more symmetry.

Verdict: the 5712/1R is a Winner

5712/1R - Rose Gold, Nautilus
Rose-gold case and bracelet
Brown sunburst dial and black gradation
Three complications: analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator
Rose gold bracelet with fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.52 mm
$82,800
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_6178.jpg (160.2 KB, 1073 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6149.jpg (156.2 KB, 1085 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6162.jpg (212.5 KB, 1075 views)
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Old 31 October 2022, 10:40 AM   #19
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Here is a profession photo of the 5712/1R in all its glory
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File Type: jpg 5712_1R_001_8.jpg (54.1 KB, 1037 views)
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Old 1 November 2022, 08:32 AM   #20
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There is no such thing as a single best Patek Philippe watch as there are so many different subjective factors that my choices would be very different than someone else and neither of us would be correct or incorrect as we all have personal preferences. In reviewing these four of the eight new October 2022 releases, if I had to only pick one, it would be a toss up between the 5811/1G and the 5990/1A.

To me, the most beautiful is the 5811/1G - White Gold, Nautilus, $69,790. This watch is simply spectacular when seen in person. This reference is classy, simple, clean, well balanced, and is close to perfection.

On the other hand, the one that would be the most useful to me would be the 5990/1A - Stainless Steel, Nautilus, $68,600 as I do not own a chronograph or a travel time watch and those two functions are pretty cool to have in a stainless Nautilus.

Even though I own a 6119R, I have to admit the most innovative of them all would be the 5935A - Stainless Steel, Complications, $63,870. The color and texture of this watch is 100% originality that is unlike anything else out there.

So there you go, these are my opinions and I welcome anyone to post their thoughts or opinions too.
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Old 1 November 2022, 10:15 AM   #21
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Superb reviews and comments.
Appreciate it much.

I will go with 5811g. Waiting on my AD to deliver. Hopefully this year !!
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Old 1 November 2022, 10:01 PM   #22
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Yeah, asymmetrical dial of 5712 turns me down too, especially the power reserve indicator. Now I know that I'm not the only person has that feeling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaBill View Post
For my final Nautilus review, the pièce de résistance, the 5712/1R - Rose Gold, Nautilus

This watch looks like something that belongs in a museum, or something that belongs in Fort Knox, as it is so easy on the eyes. This watch is classy today, will be hot next decade, and will be admired and coveted for at least another 100 years. There is something special about the Patek Philippe rose gold appearance that other watch manufactures don’t offer. The color is so deep and rich, that is almost looks liquid or wet to the touch.

The brown sunburst dial has a slight black gradation, and just like the other Nautilus watches, it takes on different appearances depending on how you angle the dial in the light. This reference has three complications: analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator. I have never owned a mechanical watch with a power-reserve indicator and if it works well, then I think it is a cool and useful addition and would like to see this on more references. I also like the fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.

Personally, this specific watch is harder for me to post an honest review as I don’t own any gold metal bracelet watches and feel this watch is best suited for formal dress occasions, like attending a red carpet event or wedding. Perhaps it is just me and my casual lifestyle, but this would not be my first pick as a daily wear as compared to the 5990, 5811, or any Aquanaut. On the other hand, I am sure celebrities will LOVE this reference.

One thing that bothers me a little bit, and perhaps is it only me or my inner OCD, but the three inner asymmetrical dials for the complications looks unbalanced to me, especially when you compare it to something like a Daytona or Nautilus 5740 that have perfect symmetry. I do realize that this is my opinion alone, so perhaps it is me as I am sure hundreds of others signed off on this design. Additionally, the gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating looks fantastic in the daytime, but in the dark, the markers are missing at position 4, 5, 7 and that would begin to bother me as my brain prefers more symmetry.

Verdict: the 5712/1R is a Winner

5712/1R - Rose Gold, Nautilus
Rose-gold case and bracelet
Brown sunburst dial and black gradation
Three complications: analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator
Rose gold bracelet with fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.52 mm
$82,800
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Old 2 November 2022, 01:52 AM   #23
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Thanks for sharing. Beautiful releases.
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Old 2 November 2022, 01:59 AM   #24
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Many thanks for the pics! The wg nautilus looks great.
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Old 2 November 2022, 03:41 AM   #25
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Such fantastic reviews and pictures! Thank you so much! Yeah, I LOVE the 5811G and the 5990A - two absolute stunning watches!
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Old 13 November 2022, 12:39 AM   #26
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Has anyone else had any Patek Philippe October 2022 release sightings or were lucky enough to obtain one?
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Old 13 November 2022, 02:13 AM   #27
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Very nice reviews, and excellent pictures. I didn't like the dial of the new 5712/1r until I saw your in person pics. In the stock photos it looked to "gold-ish", but in your photos it is noticeably darker with a sunburst effect. Much nicer IMO
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Old 13 November 2022, 02:24 AM   #28
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barter gshock for new patek 5811
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Old 13 November 2022, 04:37 AM   #29
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Construction and clasp aside, I much prefer the 5711 to the 5811. The dial is far too blue. It feels of now while the grey-blue of the 5711 was timeless. The 1mm extra too is unnecessary and makes the dial too large and too empty. Ironic they they’re maxing it when many other companies - and tastes in general - seem to be headed the other way.

I get that they needed to kill the stainless steel Nautilus, but I’d much rather they just rereleased the 5711 in white gold.
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Old 13 November 2022, 10:38 AM   #30
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To each his own I suppose as I wish they went to 42mm personally for the 5811
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