Clasp Code Question

[Harper65]

Hello everyone,

I just purchased a 16710 from one of the more reputable online vintage watch dealers (which is prefer to keep nameless at this point) and I was hoping some of you might be able to help me sort something out:

While the 78360 bracelet and 501 B end links that came with this piece look to be authentic, I cannot tell if the clasp itself is legit; It is stamped “V1X1.” And while “V” clasps would indicate a 1996 production date, I have never seen a “Letter/Number Letter/Number” code, and I have some doubts about its authenticity. After contacting the Seller, which again, is mostly highly regarded on this platform, they have insisted that the nothing about the clasp suggests it’s either a fake or aftermarket and to be confident that what I have is 100% authentic. However, after some extensive research online, I am not fully convinced. Not only has this particular Seller missed things in the past in my own past experiences with them, but I think that it’s fair to assume that sometimes Sellers just flat out make honest mistakes, especially when it comes to something less important like a clasp code. That said, if anyone with extensive knowledge could comment on what they see, it would be greatly appreciated:

[springer]

The bracelet clasp looks genuine but I've never seen one marked with a 4-digit date code before.

Below is a genuine "U" coded clasp for comparison.

[Harper65]

Springer, thank you for both the pic for comparison and your thoughts. I want to trust that it is legit, and like you mentioned, all seems ok, but that date code is what’s causing any doubt whatsoever on my end. At any rate, your perspective and pic definitely helps allay my concern of it not being genuine. Thanks for weighing in! I really appreciate it.

[baumare]

I did some research and find some other example of double marking in two different type of clasp.
Unfortunately there is not a clear answer, the majority is for a non genuine, even though the actual marking seams ok

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[Harper65]

Thanks for looking into it further, but it seems that I just may never know for sure unless maybe RSC took a look at it at a future service. I, like you, see plenty of evidence to suggest it’s genuine, but to your point, the double-letter/number code is what throws me off. Anyway, while not foolproof, considering it came from a highly-trusted Seller that has an overall great reputation (coupled with the fact that their “sold” archives show they have sold at least two other Rolexes with that clasp code), and based upon the input here in the forums, I’m inclined to conclude that it’s most likely a genuine clasp, but with a very uncommon/obscure clasp code. Oh well...I’ll keep telling myself that at least :). Thanks

[Harper65]

Also, in totality with everything else, I just thought of something else that nudges me into the camp of it being a genuine clasp. If it isn’t genuine, being that all signs outside of the clasp code itself suggest authenticity, why on earth wouldn’t the producer of this clasp mark it with a regular “letter/number” code so that not to trigger a red flag? Not that anything is a given, of course, but to go to the trouble of ensuring every other last detail was perfect, why neglect such an obvious thing that would be the first thing someone would look at, right?

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Harper65

Also, in totality with everything else, I just thought of something else that nudges me into the camp of it being a genuine clasp. If it isn’t genuine, being that all signs outside of the clasp code itself suggest authenticity, why on earth wouldn’t the producer of this clasp mark it with a regular “letter/number” code so that not to trigger a red flag? Not that anything is a given, of course, but to go to the trouble of ensuring every other last detail was perfect, why neglect such an obvious thing that would be the first thing someone would look at, right?

They don't put the codes on for you, they put them on for quality and inventory controls in-house.

If they had stamped it in '96, then put it back in the bins, only to re-inventory or check it in a later year, or to re-check a run where an issue was found, they would stamp it again.

There is no "red-flag", nor would Rolex expect a buyer to even know, look at, or care about their in-house codes.

[springer]

Originally Posted by Harper65

Thanks for looking into it further, but it seems that I just may never know for sure unless maybe RSC took a look at it at a future service. I, like you, see plenty of evidence to suggest it’s genuine, but to your point, the double-letter/number code is what throws me off. Anyway, while not foolproof, considering it came from a highly-trusted Seller that has an overall great reputation (coupled with the fact that their “sold” archives show they have sold at least two other Rolexes with that clasp code), and based upon the input here in the forums, I’m inclined to conclude that it’s most likely a genuine clasp, but with a very uncommon/obscure clasp code. Oh well...I’ll keep telling myself that at least :). Thanks

So, if your reputable seller has a great reputation, which I don't doubt, ask him what the code means. He sold it as genuine so I would suspect that he knows something about those markings.

[Harper65]

I actually did ask them explicitly about the date code, but instead of getting a specific answer, their watchmaker just maintained that there was nothing about the clasp that was indicative of it not being genuine. At that point, it became evident that I could either live with what I got, or send it back, so since I was still very pleased with the watch I received as a whole sans the clasp, I decided it was something I could live with, or remedy myself down the road. But to be clear, I wasn’t very pleased with how they addressed my questions/concerns, to the point where I felt like I was being a bother. Having taken the time to write down specific questions, take pics, etc, and by the way, spending a good chunk of change with this dealer, the fact that I received less than exceptional customer service is a bit confounding. That being said, again, I wasn’t about to ship the watch back, but I will certainly never do business with them again because of this.

[Filipão]

@Harper65 I wouldn't like to buy from him too, whoever he is - if you get my "eye winking"

[suligeo]

Never saw 4digit clasp code before


https://www.instagram.com/vintage_georgex/

[unamsanctam]

I re-open the discussion, I own a 1996 Explorer II 15670, bought from a reputable dealer in my city, sold as a sole owner. Never polished watch, with guarantee box and purchase receipt from the time. I would say a watch that should be 100% compliant. My example has 78360 strap, 501B end caps and V1 X1 branded clasp. I also searched the internet for a while, and there are several sites that sell vintage that have this same marking and that declare it as original. Is it possible that no one knows anything about it?

Thank you all

Originally Posted by Harper65

Hello everyone,

I just purchased a 16710 from one of the more reputable online vintage watch dealers (which is prefer to keep nameless at this point) and I was hoping some of you might be able to help me sort something out:

While the 78360 bracelet and 501 B end links that came with this piece look to be authentic, I cannot tell if the clasp itself is legit; It is stamped “V1X1.” And while “V” clasps would indicate a 1996 production date, I have never seen a “Letter/Number Letter/Number” code, and I have some doubts about its authenticity. After contacting the Seller, which again, is mostly highly regarded on this platform, they have insisted that the nothing about the clasp suggests it’s either a fake or aftermarket and to be confident that what I have is 100% authentic. However, after some extensive research online, I am not fully convinced. Not only has this particular Seller missed things in the past in my own past experiences with them, but I think that it’s fair to assume that sometimes Sellers just flat out make honest mistakes, especially when it comes to something less important like a clasp code. That said, if anyone with extensive knowledge could comment on what they see, it would be greatly appreciated:

[TimeToGo]

Originally Posted by unamsanctam

I re-open the discussion, I own a 1996 Explorer II 15670, bought from a reputable dealer in my city, sold as a sole owner. Never polished watch, with guarantee box and purchase receipt from the time. I would say a watch that should be 100% compliant. My example has 78360 strap, 501B end caps and V1 X1 branded clasp. I also searched the internet for a while, and there are several sites that sell vintage that have this same marking and that declare it as original. Is it possible that no one knows anything about it?

Thank you all

Can you post a picture?

[Richardlhy94]

I would like to contribute to this thread as well given I was also looking for an answer. I just bought a 14060 sub with V1X1 clasp. Based on the dealer, while V represents 1996 and X represents 1999, the numerals here would represent quarters instead of Jan. So V1 = 1996 Q1 (Spring) and X1 = 1999 Q1 (Spring). This means this clasp was made to be installed on watches in this period between 1996 spring to 1999 spring. Up for debates in this thread but thought I share what I had learnt so far.... Thoughts?