5712 vs. 5990 - at retail from AD - which one would you pick?

[pav333hp]

If you had the option to purchase a Patek Nautilus 5712 / 1A or 5990 /1A from Patek AD at current retail price, which one would you choose as why?

Note, getting both is not an option, only one or the other. 5712 / 1A is available now, but 5990 /1A in the near future. Personally, I love both watches, and they are incredible; curious to hear TRF members opinions and experiences with these pieces.

Feel free to share what you like and/or dislike about each.

[mnl]

5990 no question, personally not a big fan of the 5712 [i like the 5711 much better] but the 5990 might be my favorite nautilus. chrono AND a fantastic time travel complication? yes please.

[taylorhall]

Depends on what I have already...5712 for me—5990 was too thick on my wrist.


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[Demonoid]

Two very different watches. I prefer the heft of the 5990.


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[pav333hp]

Originally Posted by mnl

5990 no question, personally not a big fan of the 5712 [i like the 5711 much better] but the 5990 might be my favorite nautilus. chrono AND a fantastic time travel complication? yes please.

I absolutely LOVE the 5990. It's my holy grail watch - aesthetically beautiful and useful complications. Travel time is super useful; especially when I used to do lots of travel for work.

Originally Posted by taylorhall

Depends on what I have already...5712 for me—5990 was too thick on my wrist.

Nothing (from Patek) atm. This would be first Patek.

Originally Posted by Demonoid

Two very different watches. I prefer the heft of the 5990.

WOW!!! As I noted above, I LOVE the 5990 and feel it's THE most beautiful from the current line of Nautical watches. Thank you for the picture - simply beautiful.

[unknown]

5990 is too bulky so the 5712

But than I would asap try to switch it for the 5711 ....
5711 is imo THE icon and the one too have

[jamestucker]

5712, they may discontinue it next year!

[mrmoto88]

The 5990 can really do as one watch. It’s got useful GMT/chrono complications and perfect symmetry. The weight is no different to Rolex SS GMT.

Sure the 5712 does have its fans and been longer in production, so tough choice. Good luck!




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[pav333hp]

Originally Posted by unknown

5990 is too bulky so the 5712

But than I would asap try to switch it for the 5711 ....
5711 is imo THE icon and the one too have

Unfortunately AD said they don't have one and are can't say whether they may or may not get one. This is a watch I plan to keep/wear so I want my name on the paperwork.

[pav333hp]

Originally Posted by jamestucker

5712, they may discontinue it next year!

I keep hearing/reading this also. Wouldn't be surprising given what we just saw with the 5711.

Originally Posted by mrmoto88

The 5990 can really do as one watch. It’s got useful GMT/chrono complications and perfect symmetry. The weight is no different to Rolex SS GMT.

Sure the 5712 does have its fans and been longer in production, so tough choice. Good luck!

Love this picture! Thank you for sharing!

[mnl]

Originally Posted by mrmoto88

The 5990 can really do as one watch. It’s got useful GMT/chrono complications and perfect symmetry. The weight is no different to Rolex SS GMT.

Sure the 5712 does have its fans and been longer in production, so tough choice. Good luck!




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how does the size compare to a speedmaster? i often hear complaints about it being too thick, curious if the size is comparable to the omega. maybe the “too thick” is only because the obvious comparison is a 5711 which is a pretty thin watch? unfortunately i’ve never had the chance of seeing a 5990 in person

[ts3]

5712 by a country mile which lost in a close race against the 5711 when I was getting a Nautilus.

In my eyes the chunky case and the various pushers of the 5990 make quite a mess of the sleek original Nautilus design. I also find travel time complications way overrated. They may be useful at first glance but you still need to know the time difference. Nobody can tell me they are challenged by the addition or subtraction the complication does for you.

People coming from Rolex sports watches often prefer the 5990 as they are surprised by the sleekness of a 5711 or 5712 and tend to consider them too flimsy.

[Token74]

I was offered the exact same choice (also the 5726 but i wasn’t interested in that one).

My AD had both in the safe at the time for other customers so i was lucky enough to be able to see them both but it still took me an hour to choose!

As much as i like the 5712, i went for the 5990. I prefer the complications of the 5990, and the style is more ‘me’. The 5712 is a smarter sports watch as its sleek and the dial really pops. The 5990 is more casual and has more wrist presence.

Arguably the 5990 is quite a move away from the classic Nautilus so if you’re a purist then the 5712 is probably a better bet, but i like watches that are a bit different (I went Sea Dweller not Submariner, 15300 not 15202, Speedy Reduced not Speedy Pro etc.) and the 5990 ticks that box.

Ultimately, in my view, the 5990 is the top of the range steel Nautilus, it suits my style, and the complications are both impressive and useful. I have no regrets and it gets probably 50% wrist time these days despite it sharing the load with 11 other watches.




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[MCMartiny]

Although both are Nautiluses (Nautili?) these are two very different watches. The choice comes down to personal preferences and what else one has in the collection. They are of course both great - and very sought after - PP references.

5712 (my own choice)
Elegant, original Nautilus (thin) proportions. Beautiful chameleon blue/gray dial colour. Romantic (but not that useful) moon phase complication. Power reserve which is sometimes useful but less so on an automatic. Historic 240 "micro rotor" caliber with lots of "golden age" PP DNA. Asymmetric dial that should not work, but does. Can feel a bit "flimsy" when at first if one is used to Rolex subs etc. Limited to 60m water resistance rating. This is the elegant choice for purists that are into Nautilus because of history and wants something closer to Gerald Genta's original design. This is a great alternative to the 5711.

5990 (might add one day, if offered at retail)
More sporty and hefty proportions which are closer to a Sub than to the original Nautilus. All the buttons does make the flanks of the watch (especially the left) look a bit too bulky (IMO). Grey gradient symmetric dial which deliver a more somber monotone impression. Useful travel time complication. Chronograph function might not be that useful in everyday life, but is cool and sporty nonetheless. Patek's modern CH 28‑520 automatic chronograph base caliber which seems better proportioned to the size of the Nautilus case. 120m water resistance, which makes the watch more suited for actual swimming, if you are so inclined. This is the sporty choice for the collector that prefers wrist presence and masculinity over understated elegance. This is a great (more refined) alternative to a Royal Oak Offshore or a Rolex Sub.

[mrmoto88]

Wrist shots to help! Think MCMartiny’s summary says it all


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[SpaceDweller77]

5712 for me. I don’t typically like asymmetrical dials, but I think the 5712’s is one of the best.

[goog53]

5712 is a no brainer. 5990 too thick and bulky. The beauty of the naut is the slimness and I love the micro rotor

[Demonoid]

Full frontal.




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[pav333hp]

Wow, thank you all for the pictures! Really lovely to see folks wear and enjoys these beautiful and coveted pieces. And yeah, I agree they are different watches... 5712 is obviously closer to the original and that asymmetric dial is so unique that you can't stop looking at it... The 5990 is just a beast - in both proportions (when compared to 5712) and in overall design. And it does have 2 very useful complications (date and dual time); chrono, while cool, not that useful.

[7sins]

Depends on your wrist size, 5712 wears small. The busy dial optically makes the dial look even smaller.

[JR16]

5990 is a beast as you say, def to large for me - 5712 is near perfection in how it wears on the wrist , and I never get tired of looking at the dial.


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[Acquisition40]

5712 for me!

I also find the 5990 too bulky, and I think the 5164 is a better travel time option (though a very different, watch). I find it amazing that they were able to retain the thinness but add extra complications than the 5711 (albeit, sacrificing the WR).

The Patek logo perpetually covered by the chrono seconds hands bother me as well.

Good luck!

[RussW]

I have and prefer the 5990. However the fact that the 5712 is available now, makes it very tempting. That promised 5990 may never come through.

[Demonoid]

Here is a side comparison of a 5711 and a 5990. Hope it helps.





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[ap1]

12, easy

[Acquisition40]

some pics

[pav333hp]

Originally Posted by Acquisition40

5712 for me!

I also find the 5990 too bulky, and I think the 5164 is a better travel time option (though a very different, watch). I find it amazing that they were able to retain the thinness but add extra complications than the 5711 (albeit, sacrificing the WR).

The Patek logo perpetually covered by the chrono seconds hands bother me as well.

Good luck!

Oh the 5164 is fantastic!!! That's my favorite Aquanaut - and arguably one of the most beautiful sports watches.

Originally Posted by Demonoid

Here is a side comparison of a 5711 and a 5990. Hope it helps.


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Thank you for the pictures - really good to see side by side. BTW, last pic is is pure perfection! That is EXACTLY what I was hoping to have before 5711 was announced to be discontinued :(.

Originally Posted by Acquisition40

some pics

Thank you for the pics of the 5712. Absolutely gorgeous.

[ap1]

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[Andybethel]

Jeeez what a tough choice. I have a 5980R, but I don’t wear it as it’s too bulky for my wrist. I presume it’s similar dimensions to the 5990. I also have a 5712/1a which is an absolute pleasure to wear; goes with everything, sits under a shirt cuff comfortably and even lets me know when it’s time to howl at the moon :-) One of my fav features on the 5712 is the power bar which is something the 5990 is lacking. It true it is a tough call, but I would say perhaps weight your decision on some practical features? If you’re traveler an occult two time zones then the 5990 could be a good fix.

[pav333hp]

Originally Posted by Andybethel

Jeeez what a tough choice. I have a 5980R, but I don’t wear it as it’s too bulky for my wrist. I presume it’s similar dimensions to the 5990. I also have a 5712/1a which is an absolute pleasure to wear; goes with everything, sits under a shirt cuff comfortably and even lets me know when it’s time to howl at the moon :-) One of my fav features on the 5712 is the power bar which is something the 5990 is lacking. It true it is a tough call, but I would say perhaps weight your decision on some practical features? If you’re traveler an occult two time zones then the 5990 could be a good fix.

Yeah, definitely a touch call as I have lusted after the 5990 for a long time, but there is just something really special about the 5712. Plus "a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush".

As I think about rest of my collection, I have three GMT watches (Rolex, Tudor, and Casio) which can be used for travel. And I have three Chrono's. But I don't have a moon phase... Maybe that's my answer... LOL... But I just find the 5990 so aesthetically pleasing - it's just a beautiful watch! Maybe I get the 5712 now and then discuss how to get the 5990 in the future.