Preview of Audemars Piguet 2019 Novelties - ** Not Code ***

[benlee]

I wrote a preview of the new 2019 CODE and I think everyone already got a say about the new line, good and bad.

So this time, in my trip to Hong Kong, I manage to preview the non-Code Novelties, including the new 15500 series Royal Oak, the camo-44mm chronos and some other interesting stuff, thanks to the wonderful staff at the AP House Hong Kong.

So here we go :

These are just my personal opinions and impression, not a serious review of the watches as I only spent an hour with them. You might have an entirely different opinion if you see them in the flesh so just takes what I said as it is. Having the chance to preview the pieces at AP house is a big plus because over there, one got natural lighting to more accurately judge how the watch really look, something that is always near impossible in a boutique.




New 44mm Offshore Chronos


There are all together 3 new release, which is 500pcs for RG44 and 400pcs each for green and blue SS 44. What differentiate them from earlier releases are the use of brown, green and blue ceramic bezel. Also include with them is the so called camouflage straps that have a military feel to it.

First the Rose Gold 44mm. This looks exactly like the classic RG44 with the panda dial except the bezel is now in brown ceramic, the dial in brown megatapisserie and the sub dials in light tone of golden brown. The result is very pleasing, perhaps an improvement over the classic. The brown ceramic bezel is also very subtle, in most lighting it's almost black.







Here's a comparison pic with the newer 2017 RG44 release with the black dial. I think preferring one or another is just a matter of taste.




Next the blue. This was actually one of the piece I thought I will like it. First impression is good. The blue ceramic and the blue dial really pops in real life and being a sucker for blue dial, I am instantly drawn to this.







However, after spending some time with this piece. My conviction start to waiver. I think the blue is just ... well, too much blue. It sure pops, but the color is just too strong, almost cartoony. However, I do think that if it is matched with a white or black strap, that may work as it will tone down the strong blue hue by a notch or two. See if you agree with me?






Lastly, the green one. This was a favourite for many but it doesn't sing to me. Probably because green isn't really my favourite color. I will say it's for those that like them for it looks.






The new 15500 series

The 15300 and 15400 series of "workhouse" royal oaks has always served AP well, and they are largely considered the entry level timepiece. Now updated with the new improved movement ( same one found in the code ), it is re-launched as the new and improved 15500 series.


Here are the 15500 series in all three colors










Dial side, whether the modifications constitute an improvement is very debatable. The word "Automatic" is gone, and the date window is now pushed further to the right side of the bezel at 3o'clock. There appears to be a vast space between the hour markers and the dial, which is then constraint by an internal bezel around the dial. This has the effect of making the watch look and wear smaller.

Next the movement, which has been upgraded with the new inhouse movement. The rotor is now skeletonized and the movement fills up the space of the 41mm caseback nicely. For me, visually it looks like an improvement.





Some folks might still prefer the older movement due to the more elaborate engraving found on the older movement which is absent in the skeletonized rotor. For me, the new inhouse movement has a slight edge in visual appeal. Under a loupe, the finishing is also better.

For me the blue dial 15500 will be my choice. I do not like the black and grey version which for me isn't very sharp looking. Matter of personal taste really.





I like it so much that I actually going to order one for myself. I think it will complement my blue Jumbo and my silver 15400



The 38mm Chrono

Only one model is available which is the grey and silver panda.







Honestly, to be blunt, this is the least appealing of the bunch. Even under the best of light, it's a mess as the greyness of the dial just make everything become out looks washed-out. Perhaps the white/blue panda might be better. But I didn't get a chance to see it as it is not available.

A plus point is that the 38mm does wear better and looks more proportional and I guess guys will smaller wrist will prefer it. However, AP did not shrink the case thickness to match the smaller diameter ( probably because of the movement thickness ). As a result, it sit tall but wears small.

I think I will pass this whole 38mm series and wait for the inhouse chrono to come to the Royal Oak, which very likely will be next year.


Other Novelties


Also got a chance to see the new 15500 in RG with a strap.





also upgraded with the same inhouse movement.




And also the new 42mm Titanium ROO with a titanium case, close caseback and larger 44mm style pushers. This reference was much talk about during SIHH.



Unfortunately, I think it's a miss opportunity because this watch should really comes with a ceramic bezel. Still the dial doesn't really sings to me as it doesn't really stand out.

Next and probably the most visually stunning piece of the whole bunch, the AP 41mm Skeleton in frosted white gold. And that's one stunning looking piece. However, in real life it's probably going to be too flashy for most of us, unless you are a big time celeb or rapper.





As I know, the 15500 pieces are now being delivered and the rest of the novelties will follow in the coming months. Hope you enjoy reading this as much as I have enjoyed writing it. That's all folks and have a nice weekend.

[GentleMonster]

Awesome introduction Ben.
Are we confident that the in house chrono coming in next year? The folks in AP Liat are telling me the same thing

[ColnagoC60]

Thanks for this Ben! What are you impressions size wise of the 38 chrono vs your jumbo and vs your 41 ROC?

[P2725TMB]

Truly amazing review, Ben, with even more amazing pics!

I'm pretty much in total agreement with your thoughts.

With the camo trio the brown is my favourite (I did think the bezel was black - is the brown just too dark?) and looks nice. Blue is my favourite colour, but I agree that this is just too blue! I also think blue goes better with RG or YG than silver coloured metal. The green I don't like at all.

15500, I really lilke the new 'vacant' dial. I wasn't sure in pics but as soon as I saw it in real life I liked it. I think the blue is the best of the dials (I have a blue one). In contrast to what I said earlier, I do think this darker blue dial goes ok with the steel casing. I really like the skeletonised rotor, much more attractive than the older design.

The 42 Ti ROO - I've been waiting for a 42 ROO without the boring stick pushers, but this one isn't for me. I agree with you it needs a ceramic bezel, which I think would've lifted the piece. If/when they do an RG version I might look differently.

[masterserg]

Had the chance to see them all the other day. 44 brown camo is awesome!

I like the 15500 dial but much prefer the 3120 movement and rotor. The big display back is cool but I thought the new movement was not that interesting to see ... lots of plates with not much going on. I also prefer the old engraved rotor. Always a favorite of mine. Don’t necessarily agree with it being better finished either. Just my opinion of course, nothing else. The overall 15500 package is very nice. Having both, as Ben just did, would be amazing.

The 42 ti did not do anything for me.

My favorite of the bunch was the code super sonnerie. I loved that one. I also got to see the Ghost for the first time and thought it was stunning.

[Vaxe]

Great write up, thanks!

New RG 44 looks sublime, the subtle brown bezel and subdials gets my vote over last year’s. Have my 15500 on the way and can’t wait to wear it. Same opinion on the new 42 ROO, the dial doesn’t look like AP and I still prefer the 26470

[Fat_ninja]

Wow thats an awesome showing... Ben do you know it the frosted open works is uber VIP only

[AK797]

Great work Ben, many thanks! I like the RG's gold subdials and the camo strap looks a good match, but not the brown bezel or brown dial, black is better for me which means white subdials are more punchy too. I have an aftermarket grey camo which I will put on soon and that matches nicely as the bezel is grey a lot of the time, but the brown camo might now be an option - do you have any more pics of that strap on the watch?

If the 15500 does wear smaller, as I thought it might with the reduced dial, then that could be a big plus, the 400 just wears a bit wide and large, like the Exp2, for me.

[ragsk]

Ben - Nice write up and pics. Agree with your thoughts apart from I think I still prefer the black RG 44 rather than the new brown camo. Will reserve judgement until I see it in person.

Thank you for taking the time to update all of us.

[Uros]

Thanks for the write up! Was today in AP house Madrid but much less to see (at least what they wanted to show)...


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[SDDS]

Thanks Ben for sharing :):):)


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[Burlington]

Great write up and pics - really like the new movement in the 15500 & may actually prefer the skeletonised rotor to the 3120 from the photos I’ve seen.

15500 also looks fabulous in gold.

[teflonchest]

Nice review and pics! Super clean and nice contrast on the gold/black 15500.

[Soly20]

Great review. Thanks for sharing.

[Ar_Mi]

Very nice review with great pics! thanks for posting Ben

[calh22a]

Thanks for sharing! Nice write up

[tcheeco]

Very nice and honest review, buddy, thx a lot. It’s really appreciated here.
The 15500 is very nice even if I had some doubts when it was released, but now I admit it’s a great looking watch. Hence why I ordered the blue dial (can’t wait to receive it).
Today I had the 15500OR side by side with my 15400OR, I really like the new movement, how it’s displayed, the new rotor, the big date, even the “AUTOMATIC” they removed from the dial didn’t bother too much today, lol.

[HK Islandboy]

Fantastic write up and photos. Many thanks.

The more is see of the RG44, the more tempted I am by it. I must admit that the other new releases don’t sing to me

[Jinson]

Very nice review and commentary. Great setting to preview watches. Thanks!

[CoveWatch]

Great pictures, nice to see how these look other than stock photos

[smallcollector]

Thanks for the great review and pics. Where was this location? Invite only i assume?

[Kimber007]

Incredible, very well done. That frosted gold openworked is absolutely stunning

[Colin W]

Thanks Ben - the blue 15500 sure looks nice


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[benlee]

Originally Posted by SDDS

Thanks Ben for sharing :):):)


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Originally Posted by teflonchest

Nice review and pics! Super clean and nice contrast on the gold/black 15500.

Originally Posted by Soly20

Great review. Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by Ar_Mi

Very nice review with great pics! thanks for posting Ben

Originally Posted by calh22a

Thanks for sharing! Nice write up

Originally Posted by Jinson

Very nice review and commentary. Great setting to preview watches. Thanks!

Originally Posted by CoveWatch

Great pictures, nice to see how these look other than stock photos

Originally Posted by Kimber007

Incredible, very well done. That frosted gold openworked is absolutely stunning

Originally Posted by Vaxe

Great write up, thanks!

New RG 44 looks sublime, the subtle brown bezel and subdials gets my vote over last year’s. Have my 15500 on the way and can’t wait to wear it. Same opinion on the new 42 ROO, the dial doesn’t look like AP and I still prefer the 26470

Originally Posted by Burlington

Great write up and pics - really like the new movement in the 15500 & may actually prefer the skeletonised rotor to the 3120 from the photos I’ve seen.

15500 also looks fabulous in gold.

Thanks All

Originally Posted by GentleMonster

Awesome introduction Ben.
Are we confident that the in house chrono coming in next year? The folks in AP Liat are telling me the same thing

I guess so. AP has to recoup the investment cost of developing the inhouse movements and the best way they can do this is to incorporate it into the Royal Oak line, including the ROC.

Originally Posted by ColnagoC60

Thanks for this Ben! What are you impressions size wise of the 38 chrono vs your jumbo and vs your 41 ROC?

The 38 chrono wears much thicker than the jumbo of course. Size wise, about the same as 38 vs 39 and esp on smaller wrist will look more proportional than the 41 ROC.

Originally Posted by P2725TMB

Truly amazing review, Ben, with even more amazing pics!

I'm pretty much in total agreement with your thoughts.

With the camo trio the brown is my favourite (I did think the bezel was black - is the brown just too dark?) and looks nice. Blue is my favourite colour, but I agree that this is just too blue! I also think blue goes better with RG or YG than silver coloured metal. The green I don't like at all.

15500, I really lilke the new 'vacant' dial. I wasn't sure in pics but as soon as I saw it in real life I liked it. I think the blue is the best of the dials (I have a blue one). In contrast to what I said earlier, I do think this darker blue dial goes ok with the steel casing. I really like the skeletonised rotor, much more attractive than the older design.

The 42 Ti ROO - I've been waiting for a 42 ROO without the boring stick pushers, but this one isn't for me. I agree with you it needs a ceramic bezel, which I think would've lifted the piece. If/when they do an RG version I might look differently.

Agree the 15500 is better looking in person than on photos. While some are concern the dial might look too empty, it actually showcase the dial better by opening up the space. The outer ring bezel around the dial also help to limit the size.

The 42 Ti ROO was a disappointment. I thought they should have gone with a ceramic bezel. Also this model has no open caseback, hence thinner. But it's definitely wears comfortably.

Originally Posted by masterserg

Had the chance to see them all the other day. 44 brown camo is awesome!

I like the 15500 dial but much prefer the 3120 movement and rotor. The big display back is cool but I thought the new movement was not that interesting to see ... lots of plates with not much going on. I also prefer the old engraved rotor. Always a favorite of mine. Don’t necessarily agree with it being better finished either. Just my opinion of course, nothing else. The overall 15500 package is very nice. Having both, as Ben just did, would be amazing.

The 42 ti did not do anything for me.

My favorite of the bunch was the code super sonnerie. I loved that one. I also got to see the Ghost for the first time and thought it was stunning.

The new movement fits the 15500 case better as it fills up the caseback but I agree the engraved rotor on the 15400 is more interesting to look at. Strange I recall in the code, the time only models comes with an engraved rotor and the skeletonized rotor is only for the Code Chrono. I need to check them again if they are the same movement.

Originally Posted by Fat_ninja

Wow thats an awesome showing... Ben do you know it the frosted open works is uber VIP only

I am not sure about the availability of the frosted gold Open Works as I didn't asked. I will assume it's limited production. The price is closed to a 6-digit figure I believe so that will limit the demand.

Originally Posted by AK797

Great work Ben, many thanks! I like the RG's gold subdials and the camo strap looks a good match, but not the brown bezel or brown dial, black is better for me which means white subdials are more punchy too. I have an aftermarket grey camo which I will put on soon and that matches nicely as the bezel is grey a lot of the time, but the brown camo might now be an option - do you have any more pics of that strap on the watch?

If the 15500 does wear smaller, as I thought it might with the reduced dial, then that could be a big plus, the 400 just wears a bit wide and large, like the Exp2, for me.

The only pic I got that show more of the camo strap is the one I posted which compares it to the black dial RG44. I will say the camo strap will fit your classic RG44 since it will match the RG case. The brown ceramic bezel is actually appearing black most of the time. The brown tone is a lot more subtle. Not so in your face like the blue ceramic 44.

Originally Posted by ragsk

Ben - Nice write up and pics. Agree with your thoughts apart from I think I still prefer the black RG 44 rather than the new brown camo. Will reserve judgement until I see it in person.

Thank you for taking the time to update all of us.

Thanks and you are welcome!

Originally Posted by tcheeco

Very nice and honest review, buddy, thx a lot. It’s really appreciated here.
The 15500 is very nice even if I had some doubts when it was released, but now I admit it’s a great looking watch. Hence why I ordered the blue dial (can’t wait to receive it).
Today I had the 15500OR side by side with my 15400OR, I really like the new movement, how it’s displayed, the new rotor, the big date, even the “AUTOMATIC” they removed from the dial didn’t bother too much today, lol.

The 15500 in gold is also very nice. I feel that it wears a bit bigger than the older versions but barely perceptible.

Originally Posted by HK Islandboy

Fantastic write up and photos. Many thanks.

The more is see of the RG44, the more tempted I am by it. I must admit that the other new releases don’t sing to me

Indeed the RG44 Camo surprised me and is easily the nicest of the 3 new 44mm ROOs. There isn't much sunlight during my visit and my guess is that it will pops under sunlight.

Originally Posted by smallcollector

Thanks for the great review and pics. Where was this location? Invite only i assume?

It's in AP house in Hong Kong as mentioned in the post. I called them to setup an appointment for me to preview the pieces. As I am an existing boutique client, I guess it makes it easier.

Originally Posted by Uros

Thanks for the write up! Was today in AP house Madrid but much less to see (at least what they wanted to show)...

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Yeah... sometime they do that when they don't know you. Kind of annoying I know. However, these are actual working pieces and not dummies so I guess they are just being careful.

Originally Posted by Colin W

Thanks Ben - the blue 15500 sure looks nice

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My favourite of the bunch as well.

[abnerc15]

Thanks for sharing... Beautiful pics and nice write up :-)

[Odie-r]

Very interesting. Thanks for taking time to write that up!

[porschejeff]

Thanks for the pictorial. Beautiful pieces.

[Cru Jones]

Thanks for all the photos and thoughts!

[GB-man]

Great write up Ben and some of the best photos I’ve seen of the references. Blue 15500 takes the cake for me too.

I think the blue 44 on supplied blue strap is a nice release as well for those who like a bit of pop. Probably too strong for me though.

[Helmi]

Thank you Ben for a great review. I thought that the grey 500 is very appealing but after seeing your photos, the blue looks absolutely fantastic.