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powerfunk · 30 May 2018, 03:37 PM

I've been fascinated with Rolexes with shantung a.k.a. mosaic dials lately, and they seem to be one of the lesser-known secrets of the Rolex world. If I'm wrong about any of this, feel free to chime in.

Shantung is a woven silk fabric with an interesting texture. Rolex's shantung dials have silk threads painstakingly woven horizontally. They were apparently only made for Asian markets, and span roughly 1968-1978 (2.3-5.5 mil serial range). I've also read that Rolex Japan made them. (If anyone has seen original papers for a shantung/mosaic dial Rolex indicating an original sale outside of Asia I'd love to know about it!)

Here's a 1500, seemingly the most common model to feature a shantung dial:

"Isn't that a linen dial?" some of you might say. But no, linen dials have visible crosshatches, i.e. lines going up and down. There are no vertical threads on shantung/mosaic dials! But many, many sellers incorrectly list shantung dials as linen dials. Poring through images of supposed linen dials is how I found many shantung dials. Here are all the other variations of shantung dials I was able to find:

1500 with blue shantung dial:

1603 with blue shantung dial:

1514 with brown shantung dial:

1503 with brown shantung dial:

1503 with silver shantung dial:

1005 with gold shantung dial:

1005 with silver shantung dial:

I would love to see more pics/info about shantung/mosaic dials if anyone has any!

Toronto Soup King · 30 May 2018, 10:13 PM

Very interesting, power, thanks for posting. I have a linen dial on an old 6694 and the texturing adds a lot of interest to the dial IMO, but these you show us are even subtler, I like it!

Richard Carver · 30 May 2018, 10:44 PM

I've seen these over the years and assumed they were aftermarket. Are there any catalog shots or just legend?

subtona · 30 May 2018, 10:55 PM

Interesting.

Chronocrass · 1 June 2018, 09:46 PM

Wow! Thanks for the info. So great to learn something new even after studying the brand for awhile.

The so called shantung dials have been discussed some some time ago here

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=309884

A couple TRF members stated the actual part number for the dial as 13/16008-8 . Google was unable to turn up anything with the part number alone.

Someone with the Rolex parts catalogue from that era might have more details.

How do I tag Alpino on this thread and ask for his help?

powerfunk · 1 June 2018, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chronocrass

Wow! Thanks for the info. So great to learn something new even after studying the brand for awhile.

The so called shantung dials have been discussed some some time ago here

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=309884

A couple TRF members stated the actual part number for the dial as 13/16008-8 . Google was unable to turn up anything with the part number alone.

Someone with the Rolex parts catalogue from that era might have more details.

How do I tag Alpino on this thread and ask for his help?

I saw that. That part number may be a red herring. The guy who has that dial says it looks normal, and it has Romans (I haven't seen any shantung or even linen dials with Romans). Maybe a different/incorrect use of the word? It's a province in China so maybe different meaning depending on context

Sent from my SM-J727P using Tapatalk

powerfunk · 2 June 2018, 12:49 AM

Nevermind that's actually a different thread than I was thinking of. Sounds like his dial is textured, interesting. Still haven't seen any good pics of the 13/16008-8 dial though!

The moose · 2 June 2018, 04:20 AM

Have to check my linen dial that I have stored away...might not even be a Linen dial. Thx for the info!

Bxtek · 2 June 2018, 04:33 AM

Wow, these are beautiful! I had no idea about these Shantung dials. Interesting thread. Thanks for posting!

MILGAUSS88 · 2 June 2018, 05:46 AM

I think I might have a couple.
Had never heard of the term mosiac or shantung before.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

powerfunk · 2 June 2018, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILGAUSS88

I think I might have a couple.
Had never heard of the term mosiac or shantung before.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Awesome 1501! Thanks for sharing. Does it look silk-like up close? :)

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MILGAUSS88 · 2 June 2018, 02:02 PM

I never thought of it as silk, just a textured dial.
It reminds me more of the hammered copper or metal look.

gallahadesquire · 15 July 2019, 09:28 AM

Regarding its oriental heritage:

I bought mine in 1974, blue linen a.k.a. brick a.k.a. mosaic a.k.a. shantung, with the traditional "engine turned bezel" (see photo two posts above), for half price, as an insurance settlement with a jeweler in Philadelphia. The watch was fine, but the box had smoke damage, thus half price ... $175.

I had it until 2010, when it was stolen from my house while I was in hospital. 36 years. Still going strong when I last saw it.

Wish I had the Rolex description of it ... I think they just called it "blue".

But ... a watch for an oriental market in Philadelphia?

When its went in for its overhauls over the years, several dealers said they had never seen one like it.

I just gave one to a very good friend, as a birthday present.

STEELINOX · 15 July 2019, 09:44 AM

I have seen these in Bangkok back in the late 70's.

I forgot all about them, and to see them again, well, thanks for these images and a memory jogging !

Will keep an eye out for this very special dial...

Thanks,
Randy

SeeDweller · 15 July 2019, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STEELINOX

I have seen these in Bangkok back in the late 70's.

I forgot all about them, and to see them again, well, thanks for these images and a memory jogging !

Will keep an eye out for this very special dial...

Thanks,
Randy

Randy! I just noticed that you changed your location to Earthquakeville! Hope you're OK, besides a rockin' and rollin'.

Johny · 15 July 2019, 11:12 PM

Very interesting.

STEELINOX · 16 July 2019, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeeDweller

Randy! I just noticed that you changed your location to Earthquakeville! Hope you're OK, besides a rockin' and rollin'.

Not anywheres near the last big hit. Still down in the east part of San Diego, known as La Mesa

Still, the wife felt [it] shake while at work in La Jolla...

Thanks,
Randy

crowncollection · 16 July 2019, 06:02 AM

Nice write up I have had a few over the years

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Mr.Rolex1 · 16 July 2019, 06:34 AM

Great write up, thanks for sharing

axelbrass · 31 May 2020, 01:08 PM

Cool, I never noticed this kind of dial before. Adding to my long buy list.

jay_kay · 16 July 2020, 09:27 PM

I am lucky enough to have a 1973 1007 with Shantung dial.

Thanks for the info.

42itus · 17 July 2020, 09:56 AM

This is sooooo weird. I was just looking at this thread (and talking about it with a dealer) a few days ago and it got bumped. I don't see these dials come up for sale too often and when they do they typically don't last.

42itus · 17 July 2020, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_kay

I am lucky enough to have a 1973 1007 with Shantung dial.

Thanks for the info.

Beautiful watch! Love the colors and the strap choice.

powerfunk · 11 October 2020, 11:05 PM

So I've come across something that I'll call a "vertical mosaic" dial. It seems just like the other silver mosaic/shantung dial except with the threads vertical instead of horizontal:

Craft & Tailored simply listed it as a linen dial but the threads are clearly only going one way. Looks pretty silk-like to me.

330ci · 11 October 2020, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerfunk

So I've come across something that I'll call a "vertical mosaic" dial. It seems just like the other silver mosaic/shantung dial except with the threads vertical instead of horizontal:

Craft & Tailored simply listed it as a linen dial but the threads are clearly only going one way. Looks pretty silk-like to me.

They call these brush dials

powerfunk · 11 October 2020, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 330ci

They call these brush dials

Thanks, brushed dials crossed my mind but I thought they looked different. I probably just haven't seen a pic in high enough res before. Regardless of name I wonder if these are actually woven silk (shantung)?

330ci · 11 October 2020, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerfunk

Thanks, brushed dials crossed my mind but I thought they looked different. I probably just haven't seen a pic in high enough res before. Regardless of name I wonder if these are actually woven silk (shantung)?

I’m not sure, I think it’s just a texture finish though. You can see it quite well on old 1019s, but it is hard to picture unless you get the angling just right.

miamiclay · 12 October 2020, 08:04 AM

I would have guessed that vertical was just brushed metal, it doesn’t seem to have the same “brick” effect and hue variety as the shantungs.

Das · 18 November 2020, 02:28 AM

These dials look amazing. There's one on eBay (6694) but described as 'brushed' dial from 1972. Wondering if it's actually one of these?

Sorry can't post links yet!

powerfunk · 22 September 2021, 02:53 AM

Looks like some vertical-thread shantung diamond dials came 20 years after the first ones:

30 May 2018, 03:37 PM	#1
powerfunk "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Real Name: Rob Location: Boston, MA Watch: 1530 Posts: 3,780	The mysterious shantung dials a.k.a. mosaic dials I've been fascinated with Rolexes with shantung a.k.a. mosaic dials lately, and they seem to be one of the lesser-known secrets of the Rolex world. If I'm wrong about any of this, feel free to chime in. Shantung is a woven silk fabric with an interesting texture. Rolex's shantung dials have silk threads painstakingly woven horizontally. They were apparently only made for Asian markets, and span roughly 1968-1978 (2.3-5.5 mil serial range). I've also read that Rolex Japan made them. (If anyone has seen original papers for a shantung/mosaic dial Rolex indicating an original sale outside of Asia I'd love to know about it!) Here's a 1500, seemingly the most common model to feature a shantung dial: "Isn't that a linen dial?" some of you might say. But no, linen dials have visible crosshatches, i.e. lines going up and down. There are no vertical threads on shantung/mosaic dials! But many, many sellers incorrectly list shantung dials as linen dials. Poring through images of supposed linen dials is how I found many shantung dials. Here are all the other variations of shantung dials I was able to find: 1500 with blue shantung dial: 1603 with blue shantung dial: 1514 with brown shantung dial: 1503 with brown shantung dial: 1503 with silver shantung dial: 1005 with gold shantung dial: 1005 with silver shantung dial: I would love to see more pics/info about shantung/mosaic dials if anyone has any!

30 May 2018, 10:55 PM	#4
subtona "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Real Name: gus Location: East Coast Watch: APK & sometimes Y Posts: 25,987	Interesting. __________________

15 July 2019, 09:44 AM	#14
STEELINOX 2024 ROLEX DATE-JUST41 Pledge Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Real Name: Sink-O! Location: a praire in AZ Watch: ROLEX-less atm... Posts: 14,007	I have seen these in Bangkok back in the late 70's. I forgot all about them, and to see them again, well, thanks for these images and a memory jogging ! Will keep an eye out for this very special dial... Thanks, Randy __________________ *Positive Waves Baby* Lug Hole Loyalist / Chamfer Line Inspector INFORTHE WIN 289

15 July 2019, 11:12 PM	#16
Johny "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Real Name: john Location: Scotland Watch: sub 16610Lv Posts: 13,523	Very interesting. __________________ "AFTER DARK" BAR AND NIGHT CLUB GM.

16 July 2019, 06:02 AM	#18
crowncollection "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Real Name: David Location: australia Posts: 20,157	Nice write up I have had a few over the years Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ watches many

30 May 2018, 10:13 PM	#2
Toronto Soup King "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Real Name: Pete Location: Toronto, Canada Watch: 1016. Posts: 687	Very interesting, power, thanks for posting. I have a linen dial on an old 6694 and the texturing adds a lot of interest to the dial IMO, but these you show us are even subtler, I like it!

30 May 2018, 10:44 PM	#3
Richard Carver "TRF" Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: US Posts: 2,237	I've seen these over the years and assumed they were aftermarket. Are there any catalog shots or just legend?

1 June 2018, 09:46 PM	#5
Chronocrass "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 100	Wow! Thanks for the info. So great to learn something new even after studying the brand for awhile. The so called shantung dials have been discussed some some time ago here https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=309884 A couple TRF members stated the actual part number for the dial as 13/16008-8 . Google was unable to turn up anything with the part number alone. Someone with the Rolex parts catalogue from that era might have more details. How do I tag Alpino on this thread and ask for his help?

2 June 2018, 12:49 AM	#7
powerfunk "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Real Name: Rob Location: Boston, MA Watch: 1530 Posts: 3,780	Nevermind that's actually a different thread than I was thinking of. Sounds like his dial is textured, interesting. Still haven't seen any good pics of the 13/16008-8 dial though!

2 June 2018, 04:20 AM	#8
The moose Banned Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: USA Posts: 968	Have to check my linen dial that I have stored away...might not even be a Linen dial. Thx for the info!

2 June 2018, 04:33 AM	#9
Bxtek "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: CA Posts: 2,549	Wow, these are beautiful! I had no idea about these Shantung dials. Interesting thread. Thanks for posting!

2 June 2018, 05:46 AM	#10
MILGAUSS88 "TRF" Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: mississippi river Posts: 2,940	I think I might have a couple. Had never heard of the term mosiac or shantung before. Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

2 June 2018, 02:02 PM	#12
MILGAUSS88 "TRF" Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: mississippi river Posts: 2,940	I never thought of it as silk, just a textured dial. It reminds me more of the hammered copper or metal look.

15 July 2019, 09:28 AM	#13
gallahadesquire "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Shrewsbury MA Posts: 131	Regarding its oriental heritage: I bought mine in 1974, blue linen a.k.a. brick a.k.a. mosaic a.k.a. shantung, with the traditional "engine turned bezel" (see photo two posts above), for half price, as an insurance settlement with a jeweler in Philadelphia. The watch was fine, but the box had smoke damage, thus half price ... $175. I had it until 2010, when it was stolen from my house while I was in hospital. 36 years. Still going strong when I last saw it. Wish I had the Rolex description of it ... I think they just called it "blue". But ... a watch for an oriental market in Philadelphia? When its went in for its overhauls over the years, several dealers said they had never seen one like it. I just gave one to a very good friend, as a birthday present.

16 July 2019, 06:34 AM	#19
Mr.Rolex1 Banned Join Date: Apr 2019 Real Name: Mike Location: San Diego, CA Watch: Submariner Posts: 1,197	Great write up, thanks for sharing

31 May 2020, 01:08 PM	#20
axelbrass "TRF" Member Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Toronto Posts: 63	Cool, I never noticed this kind of dial before. Adding to my long buy list.

16 July 2020, 09:27 PM	#21
jay_kay "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Barrowford Watch: Tudor Black Bay 54 Posts: 1,699	I am lucky enough to have a 1973 1007 with Shantung dial. Thanks for the info. __________________ Rolex Explorer 214270, Omega Speedmaster '1957 Relaunch' 3594.50.00, Panerai Luminor 1950 PAM00127-E, Panerai Radiomir 1936 PAM00249-I, Panerai Mare Nostrum PAM00716-T, Panerai PAM00785-Q Set, Panerai Luminor Black Seal PAM00594-Q, Panerai Luminor Daylight PAM00604-Q, Tudor Black Bay 54 79000N, Heuer Carrera Re-Edition CS3113, Hamilton Military W10 & TAG Heuer F1

17 July 2020, 09:56 AM	#22
42itus "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2018 Real Name: Tom Location: Honolulu Watch: 116519LN Posts: 3,828	This is sooooo weird. I was just looking at this thread (and talking about it with a dealer) a few days ago and it got bumped. I don't see these dials come up for sale too often and when they do they typically don't last.

11 October 2020, 11:05 PM	#24
powerfunk "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Real Name: Rob Location: Boston, MA Watch: 1530 Posts: 3,780	So I've come across something that I'll call a "vertical mosaic" dial. It seems just like the other silver mosaic/shantung dial except with the threads vertical instead of horizontal: Craft & Tailored simply listed it as a linen dial but the threads are clearly only going one way. Looks pretty silk-like to me.

18 November 2020, 02:28 AM	#29
Das "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 198	These dials look amazing. There's one on eBay (6694) but described as 'brushed' dial from 1972. Wondering if it's actually one of these? Sorry can't post links yet!

22 September 2021, 02:53 AM	#30
powerfunk "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Real Name: Rob Location: Boston, MA Watch: 1530 Posts: 3,780	Looks like some vertical-thread shantung diamond dials came 20 years after the first ones:

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