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Old 13 September 2016, 01:55 AM   #1
rockmastermike
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Tudor North Flag 91210N

"I like to think of Tudor as Rolex's Tyler Durden – an outlet for all the impulses and urges the company has, but is just too darn responsible to carry out without fear of consequence"

John Mayer said this of Tudor in his write up on the Black Bay, but I think this is more applicable to the more daring North Flag. With the North Flag Tudor is stepping out on a substantively different Horological world stage than their previous releases.

While there are significant, and well documented, cultural shifts at Tudor that are represented in the North Flag, there are also a multitude of subtle design ques that have, thus far, been overlooked or ignored by the online community.



A quick search of North Flag internet comments are, for the most part, opinions based off of Tudor's print and/or online ad campaign. "I speak not to disprove what they have spoke, but here I am to speak what I do know..." I stated in my Grand Seiko review that it is a watch that absolutely needs/deserves to be seen, held and worn to truly appreciate and the same holds true for the North Flag.

Let's do this:

The crown sits on a 40mm case and features a well done Shield and deep ridges for a secure grip and screws into the case without the spacer present in its Heritage siblings. The crown is also cone shaped....make no mistake this is a tool watch but right off the bat Tudor designs a subtle feature so that not everything is so "over the top."





The bracelet is simply outstanding and uses a "H-style" link design with 3 adjustment holes in the clasp.
Another design feature that mostly goes unnoticed is that the top of the inside edges of the center links are polished.





You don't really notice until the light hits it the right way but when it does, it is a very nice effect. Sometimes you see the polish effect, sometimes you don't. There is "fine watch" trying to break out of a tool watch





Again, notice the "hidden" polished area on the case. It is as if Tudor is hiding a "fine watch" underneath a tool watch.





One last thing on the bracelet - it is a common internet rumor that you can't use aftermarket straps - that is a lie. It attaches using smaller springbars so a strap maker need only get the correct measurements and you're good to go. As this myth is corrected, I would bet we start seeing more aftermarket straps for the North Flag.



Tudor recognized the bezel is a scratch heavy area and addressed it by incorporating a scratch resistant black ceramic bezel. The bezel is not as menacing as many think due to it slightly sloped and not wide as one would imagine. When looking down at your wrist you barely notice its small halo type ring around the dial.





The matte dial is shows off muted eggshell finish with tall applied markers and numbers with large channels filled with lume. Very legible in all conditions with great depth due to the height of the markers and numbers





The new MT5621 In House movement - many have derided it's "simpleton" design and appearance. No, it's not decorated, that would go against it's tool watch nature. But, as we have seen above, Tudor does enough to keep us interested....if you know what to look for.

Silicon Hairspring - antimagnetic
full balance bridge with a free-sprung Microstella balance wheel - 28,800 vph
Chronometer Certified - COSC
70hr power reserve - weekend goodness

Deep Fluted edges to the scewdown back:



Silicon harispring, full balance bridge



Ceramic bearings for the rotor



Small detail that I love - the difference and contrast in finishes between the rotor and the bridges



Deep engraving on the movement and rotor







Date aperture is unadorned but is stepped, a window frame in a window frame - another subtle touch from Tudor
The power reserve indicator draws many opinions but I love it - it's neither distracting nor overpowering. It fits in balance within the dial set up.





Very wearable, comfortable, accurate and soon to be versatile watch that incorporates several subtle features that belie it's tool watch designation. The whole is more than the sum of its parts and absolutely worthy of your consideration.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/rockmastermike/Horology/Tudor/Tudor%20North%20Flag%2091210N/56C5B137-CBE9-4E8B-9B8E-78BAC378CA26_zps1bxd6gxp.jpg
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Old 13 September 2016, 02:25 AM   #2
pgrandster
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I really like this watch. This watch would almost be as sought after as the new Daytona if it had a rolex logo on it. This watch should have been the new explorer.
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Old 13 September 2016, 06:59 AM   #3
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Excellent review, and nicely illustrative photos - thanks.

You've touched on something that I've long felt to be the case - too many online reviews, both amateur & 'professional' just regurgitate the same obvious points or specifications. I much prefer reviews like yours, that are a conscious effort to highlight the subtle, tiny details that most overlook but which no doubt add to the appeal of a watch. Far better to add something personal & uncover less remarked-upon issues, than just hammer out the same old comments again & again that others have before you. Terrific stuff.

On the North Flag itself, I think it's destined to be a future classic - the first Tudor with an in-house movement & a display back, and so very different to so many other watch designs out there. The Black Bays & Pelagos get more praise, so I fear the North Flag is a little under appreciated, maybe, perhaps because its so uncompromising in it's toolish & individual look, but it's an example of how Tudor are smashing everything out of the park at the moment.
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Old 13 September 2016, 11:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgrandster View Post
I really like this watch. This watch would almost be as sought after as the new Daytona if it had a rolex logo on it. This watch should have been the new explorer.
Thank you
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Old 13 September 2016, 11:33 AM   #5
rockmastermike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG3N View Post
Excellent review, and nicely illustrative photos - thanks.

You've touched on something that I've long felt to be the case - too many online reviews, both amateur & 'professional' just regurgitate the same obvious points or specifications. I much prefer reviews like yours, that are a conscious effort to highlight the subtle, tiny details that most overlook but which no doubt add to the appeal of a watch. Far better to add something personal & uncover less remarked-upon issues, than just hammer out the same old comments again & again that others have before you. Terrific stuff.

On the North Flag itself, I think it's destined to be a future classic - the first Tudor with an in-house movement & a display back, and so very different to so many other watch designs out there. The Black Bays & Pelagos get more praise, so I fear the North Flag is a little under appreciated, maybe, perhaps because its so uncompromising in it's toolish & individual look, but it's an example of how Tudor are smashing everything out of the park at the moment.
Thank you very much.
As you say: It is an under-appreciated piece that really shines....if given the chance.
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Old 5 October 2016, 10:13 AM   #6
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Great review. I've been following you for years on IG. Didn't realize you were on here!
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Old 5 October 2016, 10:52 AM   #7
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Thanks a lot for this excellent review... of a stunning watch
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Old 5 October 2016, 12:05 PM   #8
pgrandster
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Excellent review and watch.
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Old 13 October 2016, 04:50 AM   #9
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Really nice review.
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Old 15 October 2016, 05:56 AM   #10
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Great review -- thanks for taking the time to prepare it. Phenomenal photos, interesting details, and most of all -- a super cool watch! Well done.
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Old 15 October 2016, 11:33 AM   #11
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That was a very interesting review well done!
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Old 17 October 2016, 11:36 PM   #12
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Thanks for an excellent review! I've been the proud owner of a North Flag for some time now and I still think it's quietly exceptional. It's not keen slipping under my shirt cuff, but that's not a sufficient reason to dismiss it. If it had one of those effortless but immensely useful 5mm bracelet adjustments (like my Explorer) it'd be perfect! It'll be back on my wrist tomorrow - time for my Ranger to have some time in the box
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Old 28 October 2016, 11:59 PM   #13
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Nice review, thanks
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Old 29 October 2016, 05:28 PM   #14
htbilgic
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Great review with excellent pictures! Thanks.
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Old 15 November 2017, 05:51 AM   #15
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Nice write-up of a great watch; if I were buying it would be conspicuous on my radar.
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Old 15 November 2017, 01:13 PM   #16
cassin907
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sharp photos for sure
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Old 1 February 2018, 12:22 AM   #17
Romeomikehotel
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Nice watch!
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Old 2 February 2018, 03:13 AM   #18
Zoogleboogle
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the NF has been my tool watch/EDC for a few months now, and I absolutely love it.
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Old 14 February 2018, 09:15 AM   #19
jaime4022
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Great review

A great review of an excellent watch. Almost makes me want to go out and buy another one... until I remember what a dent magnet the outer side of that bezel is, and suddenly I no longer want it. That being said, a truly nice and solid watch!
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Old 4 March 2018, 08:17 AM   #20
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Interesting and informative review & photos. Thanks for taking the time. :)
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Old 2 May 2018, 02:25 AM   #21
jstan9
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Absolutely amazing review. I agree with the posters who comment on the fact that you don’t state all the obvious stuff — you focus on the insanely small details that fascinate WIS people about the watch. Thank you so much for doing this, and for the wonderful pictures!
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Old 2 May 2018, 06:57 PM   #22
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Excellent review of a very fine watch, well done

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Old 15 May 2018, 09:53 AM   #23
tudorbaja27
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Splendid review and pictures! Thank you
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Old 20 May 2018, 09:30 PM   #24
mikkolopez
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Interesting and very well detailed review. I now appreciate the North Flag and coupled with a look back on the Greenland Expedition legacy, it truly will be an Explorer’s watch.

Thanks


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Old 8 June 2018, 08:08 AM   #25
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What do you think is up next for the North Flag? Titanium? Full ceramic bezel? Different colors?

And would that be as/more or less desirable than the original?


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Old 16 August 2018, 12:33 AM   #26
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Awesome write up mate. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share!

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Old 16 August 2018, 01:32 AM   #27
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This review is gorgeous, and those pictures... <3
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Old 16 August 2018, 04:56 AM   #28
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Thanks for your review, I tried one on last weekend for the first time and rather liked it. As a Sub wearer, I was aware of the weight of the bracelet option and will go back and try the strap alternative.
Cheers
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