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Old 17 January 2020, 03:39 PM   #1
Skavary
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Question about Loctite

Greetings Fellow TRFers:

Quick question regarding Loctite. I’ve been reading how it’s important to heat up a link you are about to replace so the Loctite melts and you are able to unscrew the screw with ease.

My question is this: if you’re heating up a particular link, won’t the adjacent links also get heated as well and hence melt the Loctite in the adjacent links? Will the Loctite thats heated in these links eventually harden again when it cools down? The worry of course is if it doesn’t harden again and your left with some links without the safety of Loctite?

Just wanted some insight. Thanks!
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Old 17 January 2020, 03:43 PM   #2
kieselguhr
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Question about Loctite

If it melts, it will harden again when it cools, which is quite fast. But it shouldn’t be too difficult to hit just 1 link with a lighter flame. Hope you’re not using a flamethrower
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Old 17 January 2020, 04:03 PM   #3
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I just put my watch in the oven at 200c for about 30mins (or until it gets a little golden on the top) then I know the links will unscrew real easy. It's nice with a little potato salad also.
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Old 17 January 2020, 05:47 PM   #4
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I just put my watch in the oven at 200c for about 30mins (or until it gets a little golden on the top) then I know the links will unscrew real easy. It's nice with a little potato salad also.
Had a long day at work and this made me chuckle a bit hahaha
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Old 17 January 2020, 05:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by kieselguhr View Post
If it melts, it will harden again when it cools, which is quite fast. But it shouldn’t be too difficult to hit just 1 link with a lighter flame. Hope you’re not using a flamethrower
I don’t think it hardens again Nick.
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Last edited by Tools; 18 January 2020 at 01:39 PM.. Reason: fix quote
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Old 17 January 2020, 06:48 PM   #6
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Had a long day at work and this made me chuckle a bit hahaha
Australian humour, mate!
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Old 17 January 2020, 10:38 PM   #7
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Eh hem... mmm-kay gentlemen.

Yes, you want to warm it up a bit and then you'll be fine. It is 'minor' Loc-Tite Rolex uses. See this link for more data / details http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/



NEVER use Loc-Tite RED unless you never want the bolt to ever come loose (though 550F will if fact aid in removing something where RED was used).

Hope this helps.
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Old 18 January 2020, 03:20 AM   #8
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Loctite 222 is the preferred type. It is the "small screw" type designed to be the easiest / least "locking" type to use. Anything stronger and you are 'screwed' so to speak.

And apply just a touch to the female threads only, NOT to the pin threads. Otherwise the Loctite gets transferred onto/into the bracelet links when you insert the pins into the links.
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Old 18 January 2020, 04:15 AM   #9
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Loctite 222 is the preferred type. It is the "small screw" type designed to be the easiest / least "locking" type to use. Anything stronger and you are 'screwed' so to speak.

And apply just a touch to the female threads only, NOT to the pin threads. Otherwise the Loctite gets transferred onto/into the bracelet links when you insert the pins into the links.

^^^This needs to be said again. Just a small amount of the purple thread locker in the hole is all that is required. Do it the other way around and your link will get stiff and rough feeling.
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Old 18 January 2020, 01:06 PM   #10
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Thanks for the input and the humor, fellas.

What do you recommend I use to apply the Loctite to the female threads? Would a toothpick work? Is it fairly easy to see/get to the female threads?
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Old 18 January 2020, 01:43 PM   #11
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. . . Would a toothpick work? Is it fairly easy to see/get to the female threads?
toothpick would work fine, but can hold too much Loctite if you aren't careful.

You can drop the Loctite in the threads at any time as they are only on one side of the link and extend through the link - you can see them.

Loctite is an anaerobic and only hardens after a lack of oxygen when the threads are mated up.
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Old 18 January 2020, 08:39 PM   #12
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Loctite is an anaerobic and only hardens after a lack of oxygen
This is a watch forum... this seems a little risque!
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Old 18 January 2020, 10:40 PM   #13
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This is a watch forum... this seems a little risque!
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Old 19 January 2020, 03:33 AM   #14
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This is a watch forum... this seems a little risque!
If you are unfamiliar with Loctite, you should probably only use it with a friend.
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Old 19 January 2020, 07:00 AM   #15
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If you are unfamiliar with Loctite, you should probably only use it with a friend.


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Old 19 January 2020, 10:10 AM   #16
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Just a follow up: it seems one of the screws in my bracelet is rotating in place as I move the adjacent link from one side to the other. It doesn’t seem to be unscrewing, however, but rather, saying in place.

Is this normal? Lol
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Old 19 January 2020, 10:30 AM   #17
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The screws should stay aligned with the link they mate with.

They only screw in until they lock on their shoulder.
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Old 19 January 2020, 11:13 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Skavary View Post
Just a follow up: it seems one of the screws in my bracelet is rotating in place as I move the adjacent link from one side to the other. It doesn’t seem to be unscrewing, however, but rather, saying in place.

Is this normal? Lol
No, it's not normal... This is what unscrews the screwbars, the friction of the link rotating it until it eventually comes out enough to notice and is the whole intent of using Loctite.

The screw-bars are simply studs that screw into threads. There is no shoulder or clamping edge to tighten these studs against, they simply bind into the thread base when fully tightened. If you force them, you can literally jamb them into the female threads of the link, cracking the root.

Since the stud is already loose, take it out and smear a bit of lithium or silicon grease on the shaft, then screw it down tight (but not too tight) until you have access to the proper Loctite.
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Old 19 January 2020, 11:25 AM   #19
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Wow thank you for the insight. I know this has been mentioned before but what screwdriver do you recommend for a modern ceramic sub?

Any particular kit with considering?
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Old 19 January 2020, 12:40 PM   #20
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Horotech makes a nice screwdriver, but there are many others too.

Most advocate for a hollow-ground tip, but if it isn't tight, most screwdrivers will do the job without damage if you are careful.

Rolex Oyster bracelets are 1.6mm heads.

Here is a hollow-ground screwdriver tip and how it is shaped.

hollow ground.jpg
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Old 19 January 2020, 12:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skavary View Post
Just a follow up: it seems one of the screws in my bracelet is rotating in place as I move the adjacent link from one side to the other. It doesn’t seem to be unscrewing, however, but rather, saying in place.

Is this normal? Lol


It would be normal if you used thread locker incorrectly.



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Old 19 January 2020, 02:07 PM   #22
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Thanks fellas, I really appreciate it
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Old 20 January 2020, 01:35 PM   #23
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Horotech makes a nice screwdriver, but there are many others too.

Most advocate for a hollow-ground tip, but if it isn't tight, most screwdrivers will do the job without damage if you are careful.

Rolex Oyster bracelets are 1.6mm heads.

Here is a hollow-ground screwdriver tip and how it is shaped.

Attachment 1102805
In a pinch, I found that the small screw driver from a Victorinox Swiss Army knife (the one that is for eye glass adjustment and normally screwed into the corkscrew) is 1.6mm and hollow ground.

As an added bonus, since the driver is small, it’s very difficult to over tighten a bracelet screw.
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Old 22 January 2020, 04:27 AM   #24
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A good way to remove a link if it won't easily unscrew is to use a butane cigar lighter which has a very narrow flame and can be held on the threaded end of the object link without overly heating adjacent links.
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Old 29 January 2020, 04:42 PM   #25
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No, it's not normal... This is what unscrews the screwbars, the friction of the link rotating it until it eventually comes out enough to notice and is the whole intent of using Loctite.

The screw-bars are simply studs that screw into threads. There is no shoulder or clamping edge to tighten these studs against, they simply bind into the thread base when fully tightened. If you force them, you can literally jamb them into the female threads of the link, cracking the root.

Since the stud is already loose, take it out and smear a bit of lithium or silicon grease on the shaft, then screw it down tight (but not too tight) until you have access to the proper Loctite.
I was referring to the shoulder where the thread meets the body of the screw.

This is where the screw locks on the link.
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