Vintage Datejust Questions

[the dark knight]

My father gave me his old Datejust, which was given to him by his father. It's in pretty rough shape (although I can get it to run), so I'm definitely gonna get it serviced and overhauled.

I did have some initial questions out of curiosity. I removed the bracelet to see if I could see the engravings on the case. A lot of it seems rubbed/scratched off, seemingly by year of the endlinks scratching against the case.

One one side, I can make out "Registered Design" and then "1601" but I cannot tell if there is another number after the 1.

I can see remnants of a serial number on the other side but no way I can make out any of the digits.

The endlinks are stamped 455, and the dial is "T Swiss T".

Interestingly, the date mechanism functions like a modern Rolex. I can quickset the date with the crown out in the 2nd position, and around midnight the date switches instantaneously. Would that mean it's a 16014 and not a 1601?

Any idea roughly how old this watch may be?

[kieselguhr]

With my limited knowledge base, the 1601 only comes with the Rolex caliber 1575. This movement does not have the quickset function. Date flips instantly at 0000 but setting it requires 2 full rotations of the hour hand or 24 hours.

The quickset was introduced with the 3035 and these newer movements were introduced with the 1601/3/4.

[Andad]

Con you unscrew the case back and give us the movement number?

[Richard.]

Your 1601 has Rapid Date Change but not Quickset, which is a different thing.

[Dan S]

If it has a quick-set crown position, it will be a 5-digit reference. It could be a 16014, but we can't say for sure without photos or a more detailed description of the watch beyond just "Datejust". Without a serial, it's not possible to put a production date on the watch, but the 1601x DJs were made from the late 70s through the 80s at least. I don't recall exactly when they stopped, but I'm sure you can find that info on the internet.

[Tools]

Endlink stamp is for a TT Jubilee.

[the dark knight]

Thanks guys, here are some pics:

[the dark knight]

BTW, I had some questions about servicing this watch:

(1) I recently purchased my OP36 from Kern's in Burlingame, CA. I was leaning toward taking my dad's DJ there for service. Thought it might be a good idea just to have an excuse to check in on person and just continue to build the relationship as there are other pieces I'm hoping to acquire. My understanding is they are a Rolex authorized service center. Should I just ask them to do the work, or can I request they send it to RSC for me? Would me requesting the latter be offensive or rude in any way?

(2) I feel like the case itself is not in horrible condition, my impression is just doing whatever is recommended will get the job done and make it look like new again. I have several concerns about the bracelet though. You can see the gold has somehow been removed from one of the endlinks. Not sure how this is even possible but it happened. The bracelet has massive stretch, and my dad (or grandpa) lost the extra links. The clasp is already in the longest microadjust setting, so if the bracelet is tightened I am sure it won't fit my wrist anymore.

Would I/should I be able to order extra links? Is there an option to just order a brand new TT jubilee, and how much would that cost? Should I do that, or should I just have them repair the bracelet and try to source some links?

(3) Judging from the scratches, I'm guessing this is a plastic crystal. Would I be able to ask them to replace with a Sapphire?

Thanks!

[Dan S]

Looks to be a ref 16013 IMO.

I don't know if RSC will service it, but if that is your intention, it is far better to send it yourself. Many of the horror stories we hear about involving RSC and vintage watches come from using an AD as the middle-man.

It's up to you if you want to restore the bracelet (buying extra links) or purchase a new bracelet. Rolex will sell you a new (modern) bracelet that fits your watch, but I don't know that they will restore bracelets. That can be done by rolliworks or classicwatchrepair.

You would want to replace the crystal with a new acrylic crystal. That is correct for the watch, and will fit correctly, which is important for water resistance. You can get aftermarket sapphire crystal kits for vintage oyster case watches, but they are crap IMO.

[TimeLord2]

I like that tapestry dial, very nice! Just going to address question 2. The gold is actually laminated on top of the steel substrate, so it probably just popped off at some point. I have had my bracelet refurbished at Rolliworks and while they did a good job the cost I think was about $550 and for each gold center link replaced it was about $25. I did not replace a bunch of links that definitely could have been replaced but they were shifted around to wear in different areas. That was 2 years ago, most likely a bit more now, also with the price of gold on the rise. Mine too had some curves and little notches on the gold center links and steel outer links. I am glad I had it repaired, as it is the original bracelet. In hind sight, I might have just purchased another lightly used one on EBAY and stored the original. I did have my watch authenticated by Rolex after the bracelet was refurbished, which included a list of necessary repairs and optional. Their optional repairs recommended a new bracelet even though it was just refurbished (but not to Rolex standards apparently!), the 62523H for $3800, the oyster version about the same (78363). EBAY or even the classifieds on this forum, you're about in the middle of the cost of repair or new bracelet but nice ones come up only occasionally. One more thing, my bracelet did shrink about an inch. I was somewhat lucky because I still had a few links in the clasp but still needed an extra link which I sourced on EBAY. It was $59, same vendor now selling them for $79. Mine is an American made jubilee with oval links. I used Phillip Ridley for servicing the watch and he helped with sourcing a new bezel ring, quite happy with the result. So there you have it. Add up the numbers and determine your course of action. Hope that helps.

[WatchLuxe]

love that linen dial!!

[winst]

That is going to look great once you’ve had it serviced and restored. Nice classic watch!

[dbhak22]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

I like that tapestry dial, very nice! Just going to address question 2. The gold is actually laminated on top of the steel substrate, so it probably just popped off at some point. I have had my bracelet refurbished at Rolliworks and while they did a good job the cost I think was about $550 and for each gold center link replaced it was about $25. I did not replace a bunch of links that definitely could have been replaced but they were shifted around to wear in different areas. That was 2 years ago, most likely a bit more now, also with the price of gold on the rise. Mine too had some curves and little notches on the gold center links and steel outer links. I am glad I had it repaired, as it is the original bracelet. In hind sight, I might have just purchased another lightly used one on EBAY and stored the original. I did have my watch authenticated by Rolex after the bracelet was refurbished, which included a list of necessary repairs and optional. Their optional repairs recommended a new bracelet even though it was just refurbished (but not to Rolex standards apparently!), the 62523H for $3800, the oyster version about the same (78363). EBAY or even the classifieds on this forum, you're about in the middle of the cost of repair or new bracelet but nice ones come up only occasionally. One more thing, my bracelet did shrink about an inch. I was somewhat lucky because I still had a few links in the clasp but still needed an extra link which I sourced on EBAY. It was $59, same vendor now selling them for $79. Mine is an American made jubilee with oval links. I used Phillip Ridley for servicing the watch and he helped with sourcing a new bezel ring, quite happy with the result. So there you have it. Add up the numbers and determine your course of action. Hope that helps.

I think you meant "linen dial"? Tapestry dials are have vertical line design and are "deeper" in texture.

OP, case/head is in quite good condition! Beautiful family heirloom. You could also keep the original bracelet aside and throw it on a strap which I think would look great.