low amplitude

[johnbicht]

Have finished (mostly) servicing a 3035. Odd problem to me exists. I corrected the beat error to 0 +/-.1ms, timing to +1/3 s/d. The amplitude is in the 240 range, wound at least 40.

I found that the end shake of the balance really was hard to perfect. A tiny movement of the cock screw made a big difference in timing and amplitude.

The movement has a new balance insetting on the dial side - although a perhaps weak KIF spring, a NOS mainspring in barrel - not opened and re-oiled. All oils properly done.

Any ideas? The next thing I might do is remove the mainspring, open the barrel, and put some of the proper oil (which I have) across the spring.

[77T]

Is it the same dial up and dial down?


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[johnbicht]

slower dial up - 217.

[SearChart]

Have you tried a new balance staff?

[watchmaker]

You could have missed an oiling point, there could be wear somewhere in the train (as Bas has mentioned a good starting place to look is the balance staff), endshake could be wrong in one or more places. It could be a combination of factors.

If you have not cleaned and properly oiled the barrel throwing some oil across the mainspring isn’t going to help you. The barrel should really be cleaned and have the interior wall correctly greased.

[johnbicht]

Regarding the barrel and spring, it is brand new unused out of sealed Rolex package. But I have no idea when it was made.

[Ashton_Horologist]

Just becuase a barrel is new doesn’t mean it’s right. Even from Rolex packaging they can have incorrect end and sideshake. I would also check your escapement. Dial up/down differences can be form incorrect horn shake.

[Ashton_Horologist]

Did you oil the center seconds long pivot?

[SearChart]

Originally Posted by Ashton_Horologist

Just becuase a barrel is new doesn’t mean it’s right. Even from Rolex packaging they can have incorrect end and sideshake. I would also check your escapement. Dial up/down differences can be form incorrect horn shake.

100% correct, many factory barrels have either too much arbor end shake or too little.

[johnbicht]

Are there specific places that reduce amplitude? Or is it just any energy losing spot?

I wanted to try to see if it was a problem with the mainspring/barrel that I bought, so I replaced it with the original that had an aftermarket spring installed by me 6 years ago. Opened it up and put a bit of 8201 across it. While I was putting it back to together made sure that the seconds wheel had proper lube. The result was a drop in amplitude of 10-15 degrees. So that was not it.

On first reassembly days ago, I managed to lose the insetting for one of the balance jewel assemblies. Replaced it with new. I had often seen that the hole jewel looked a bit worn, so was pleased to replace it.

The reason I bring this up is this. The endshake adjustment of the balance is crazy sensitive. If I change the adjustment screw by a few minutes of a turn it will radically alter the amplitude and timing. What does this indicate. I am certain that I have adjusted this last service and found it a lot more friendly.

I am at a loss.

[Ashton_Horologist]

To be completely honest, without knowing how much you know about watchmaking and exactly what you have done, we have no way of diagnosing the problem.

[microstella]

How much amplitude do you have after 24 hours after full winding?

[johnbicht]

I have given up and sent the movement to Timecare. I just don't have time for this at the moment. Thanks for the interest.

[microstella]

understand you, can be very anoying with bad timing in a repair. The most important amplitude is in the 1st criteria, after 24 hours. Can not be under 200, if its over 200 and fully winded maybe be 240 as yours then it is in Rolex tolerance of timekeeping