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Old 19 April 2019, 09:09 PM   #31
alpharulez
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In my opinion the Calatrava with the hobnail bezel is the definitive dress watch!

The JLC MUT or even the Vacheron Patrimony should do very well with a suit / tuxedo / tails ...

Or you could wear the Calatrava just because you can with your t- shirt and jeans as I do!


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Old 19 April 2019, 10:42 PM   #32
Widows Son
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This topic rears it's ugly head often, especially when a new member asks if it's OK to wear a Sub with a suit or Tux. I feel a dress watch is a must for every collection. Now of course we have to define "dress watch." My definition would be a moderatly sized 2-3 handed watch on a leather strap, no complications. Precious metal preferred. I attended the Maundy Thursday service last night at Church where I was a reader. I wore a black suit, dark tie, black shoes and belt. (A very moving and somber service). I wore a late 40's IWC Cal 88 SS watch on a black leather strap. A perfect watch which fit under my shirt cuff. Beautiful gold vintage Hamiltons, Omegas, Bulovas and scores of other dress watches can be purchased for less than $500.00. At that price point why wouldn't everybody own at least one dress watch even if you only wear a suit a few times a year. Eventually doesn't everyone get invited to a wedding or attend a funeral?????? What do you wear, flip flops and shorts???Part of the problem is people who feel that since they spent $10,000 on a gold Sub, they have to try to justify it by thinking that it's appropriate for everything, it's not. Another problem is the thought that a dress watch has to be from one of the trinity and cost $20,000, also untrue. A vintage Omega or Hamilton will always be more appropriate as a dress watch than a tool or sports watch, regardless of the cost. For those who feel there are "No rules, I'll do as I want, anything goes," go ahead, it's a free country. I'll continue to wear a suit and tie to Church, and drive a clean sedan to a wedding.
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Old 19 April 2019, 11:32 PM   #33
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I agree with the above. To each their own, buy, wear and enjoy what you like. However, FOR ME, a “dress” watch is “required” in my collection and is worn and when “appropriate”. If suiting up for a funeral I’d rather be the guy wearing the $200 classic Seiko on leather under the cuff with my suit than the guy wearing the $10K SD sticking out. That’s me of course, as I said, to each their own. The world has certainly gotten more casual and I don’t judge, I do what makes me comfortable.
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Old 20 April 2019, 12:28 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Widows Son View Post
This topic rears it's ugly head often, especially when a new member asks if it's OK to wear a Sub with a suit or Tux. I feel a dress watch is a must for every collection. Now of course we have to define "dress watch." My definition would be a moderatly sized 2-3 handed watch on a leather strap, no complications. Precious metal preferred. I attended the Maundy Thursday service last night at Church where I was a reader. I wore a black suit, dark tie, black shoes and belt. (A very moving and somber service). I wore a late 40's IWC Cal 88 SS watch on a black leather strap. A perfect watch which fit under my shirt cuff. Beautiful gold vintage Hamiltons, Omegas, Bulovas and scores of other dress watches can be purchased for less than $500.00. At that price point why wouldn't everybody own at least one dress watch even if you only wear a suit a few times a year. Eventually doesn't everyone get invited to a wedding or attend a funeral?????? What do you wear, flip flops and shorts???Part of the problem is people who feel that since they spent $10,000 on a gold Sub, they have to try to justify it by thinking that it's appropriate for everything, it's not. Another problem is the thought that a dress watch has to be from one of the trinity and cost $20,000, also untrue. A vintage Omega or Hamilton will always be more appropriate as a dress watch than a tool or sports watch, regardless of the cost. For those who feel there are "No rules, I'll do as I want, anything goes," go ahead, it's a free country. I'll continue to wear a suit and tie to Church, and drive a clean sedan to a wedding.
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Old 20 April 2019, 12:35 AM   #35
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I'd guess by all accounts these two would be classified as dress watches. that said, i wear both in all sorts of dress attire - casual, business, formal.

i love the fact that variations in straps for both allow such versatility.
i didn't seek them out with the intent is acquiring a 'dress watch'. rather, just wanted models that i considered perennial classics.
it just so happens that they easily handle that particular category need.



That Cartier is beautiful
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Old 20 April 2019, 01:30 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Widows Son View Post
This topic rears it's ugly head often, especially when a new member asks if it's OK to wear a Sub with a suit or Tux. I feel a dress watch is a must for every collection. Now of course we have to define "dress watch." My definition would be a moderatly sized 2-3 handed watch on a leather strap, no complications. Precious metal preferred. I attended the Maundy Thursday service last night at Church where I was a reader. I wore a black suit, dark tie, black shoes and belt. (A very moving and somber service). I wore a late 40's IWC Cal 88 SS watch on a black leather strap. A perfect watch which fit under my shirt cuff. Beautiful gold vintage Hamiltons, Omegas, Bulovas and scores of other dress watches can be purchased for less than $500.00. At that price point why wouldn't everybody own at least one dress watch even if you only wear a suit a few times a year. Eventually doesn't everyone get invited to a wedding or attend a funeral?????? What do you wear, flip flops and shorts???Part of the problem is people who feel that since they spent $10,000 on a gold Sub, they have to try to justify it by thinking that it's appropriate for everything, it's not. Another problem is the thought that a dress watch has to be from one of the trinity and cost $20,000, also untrue. A vintage Omega or Hamilton will always be more appropriate as a dress watch than a tool or sports watch, regardless of the cost. For those who feel there are "No rules, I'll do as I want, anything goes," go ahead, it's a free country. I'll continue to wear a suit and tie to Church, and drive a clean sedan to a wedding.
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Old 20 April 2019, 03:00 AM   #37
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Part of the problem is people who feel that since they spent $...on a Sub, they have to try to justify it by thinking that it's appropriate for everything, it's not.
Indeed. Just because James Bond did it in a movie doesn’t mean it’s not tacky when you wear your dive watch (or G-Shock, or FitBit, or...) with a suit.

Saying, “it dresses up or down” doesn’t make it so. A 44mm Panerai or AP ROO with French cuffs looks hideous.
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Old 20 April 2019, 03:14 AM   #38
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Yes. Interview and anytime you wear a tux. Just feels better.
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Old 20 April 2019, 10:40 PM   #39
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I wouldnt go as far as saying you need a PM 2 hander today but definitely you need something <40mm on leather if you are wearing a suit (formal). Actualy i would say you will need 2. One with a black and one with a brown strap (or swap straps ofcource). I use rose gold with brown strap, white gold with black strap or white gold with navy strap. All depending on color suit and shoes.

I'll make an exeption if no tie and suit is more sporty. Then something on a bracelet like a RO or DD will do. But still i would not use pure sports (SUB etc). I only use sports with short sleeves. The whole james bond thing boggles my mind. James Bond is a fictional character and is cutting things with a laser coming out of his watch. So unless you are a spie or something better to stick to leather when wearing a suit.

Even if you do not wear a suit often you can always get something like a ss reverso which can be had relatively cheap and wil serve well in any setting.
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Old 21 April 2019, 12:36 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Widows Son View Post
This topic rears it's ugly head often, especially when a new member asks if it's OK to wear a Sub with a suit or Tux. I feel a dress watch is a must for every collection. Now of course we have to define "dress watch." My definition would be a moderatly sized 2-3 handed watch on a leather strap, no complications. Precious metal preferred. I attended the Maundy Thursday service last night at Church where I was a reader. I wore a black suit, dark tie, black shoes and belt. (A very moving and somber service). I wore a late 40's IWC Cal 88 SS watch on a black leather strap. A perfect watch which fit under my shirt cuff. Beautiful gold vintage Hamiltons, Omegas, Bulovas and scores of other dress watches can be purchased for less than $500.00. At that price point why wouldn't everybody own at least one dress watch even if you only wear a suit a few times a year. Eventually doesn't everyone get invited to a wedding or attend a funeral?????? What do you wear, flip flops and shorts???Part of the problem is people who feel that since they spent $10,000 on a gold Sub, they have to try to justify it by thinking that it's appropriate for everything, it's not. Another problem is the thought that a dress watch has to be from one of the trinity and cost $20,000, also untrue. A vintage Omega or Hamilton will always be more appropriate as a dress watch than a tool or sports watch, regardless of the cost. For those who feel there are "No rules, I'll do as I want, anything goes," go ahead, it's a free country. I'll continue to wear a suit and tie to Church, and drive a clean sedan to a wedding.
I agree.
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Old 21 April 2019, 05:49 AM   #41
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Certainly there is a place for it. I just saw Doctor Strange and the SS JLC PC features quite heavily and looks rather good, plus Benedict wore a Breguet in Sherlock, so in keeping with his classy, aristocratic choices. A Rolex just wouldn't work the same.
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Old 21 April 2019, 05:58 AM   #42
alpharulez
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Certainly there is a place for it. I just saw Doctor Strange and the SS JLC PC features quite heavily and looks rather good, plus Benedict wore a Breguet in Sherlock, so in keeping with his classy, aristocratic choices. A Rolex just wouldn't work the same.

+1

One small detail - I would say that the JLC MUTP is actually the now discontinued white gold version rather than the SS one.
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