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Old 5 August 2020, 11:14 PM   #1
timepiecegentleman
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Recommendations on the perfect dress watch?

I'm trying to put together a list of recommendations of the perfect dress watch and instead of guessing or giving my sole opinion I want to ask true watch connoisseurs.

What would be your pick for the perfect dress watch, any brand, for each of the following price ranges:

1. 0 - $5000
2. 5000 - 10,000
3. 10,000 - 20,000
4. 20,000 - 30,000
5. 30,000 - 50,000
6. 50,000 - 75,000
7. 75,000 +
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Old 5 August 2020, 11:38 PM   #2
enjoythemusic
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Please define dress watch? For tux events, or just a formal business meeting. Will the meeting include billionare VCs, or just a 'spy mission' so they can copy / steal your efforts? Need more data to define choices.

What would your choices be as you have 1600+ posts and have been a member here for years?
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Old 6 August 2020, 01:30 AM   #3
Nav01L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timepiecegentleman View Post
I'm trying to put together a list of recommendations of the perfect dress watch and instead of guessing or giving my sole opinion I want to ask true watch connoisseurs.

What would be your pick for the perfect dress watch, any brand, for each of the following price ranges:

1. 0 - $5000
2. 5000 - 10,000
3. 10,000 - 20,000
4. 20,000 - 30,000
5. 30,000 - 50,000
6. 50,000 - 75,000
7. 75,000 +
I think the charm of a dress watch is not so much it’s function or design, seeing as they all pretty much look the same. A dress watch is a fairly standardized vehicle for proper fine watchmaking. I’m afraid on that basis, the minimum entry price is 16-17k. From there on you have big brand simple (5196, traditionelle small seconds, jules audemars or even a 7147 on the lower end of the quality spectrum), big brand complex (Lange 1, Patek ACs, traditionelle calendar), independent simple, where it gets truly awesome (Kari, Rexhep, Ferrier) and high complications & tourbs (from big brands and indies, and Journe inbetween).

Personally my sweet spot is the Lange 1, but that’s because I can’t afford a Kari 28 or a Chronometre contemporain yet. The ultraclassic simple dress watches from the big brands tend to be a bit too bland for my taste.
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Old 8 August 2020, 02:02 PM   #4
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1) Grand Seiko SBGW 231
2) Patek 3919J/R/G - Biased towards J - may even be able to get a T stamp, SBY003 (Grand Seiko), SBGW253 or SBGW 259
3) Lots of options - My fav is probably Patek 5196 or Lange Saxonia
4) Chronometre Bleu (at MSRP) or chronometre souverain (Rose gold is around $30k), Patek 5227R/G
5) Patek 3940J in the high 30s, Lange Datograph, Patek 5205, Lange 1, Lange 1815 Chrono
6) Credor Eichi II, Patek 5170G/R, Patek 5070 G/R, Patek 3940P, Patek 3970J (mid 70s), Gronsfeld Remoutour
7) Patek 5131 worldtime, Patek 5170P, Journe Resonance, Journe Tourbillon, Patek 3970, Patek 5970, Patek 5070P
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Old 11 August 2020, 04:42 AM   #5
Amochosto
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1. 0 - $5000 Orient Bambino (looks great and you can save more for your next Patek)
2. 5000 - 10,000. JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon
3. 10,000 - 20,000. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
4. 20,000 - 30,000. Patek Philippe Calatrava
5. 30,000 - 50,000. More expensive Calatrava?
6. 50,000 - 75,000. ?
7. 75,000 + ?

As far as I’m concerned dress watches are simple, usually time only, but I’m prepared to make an exception for moon phase. I’m not aware of any time only watches that are more than $50k, I’m sure they exist though. For over $50k I guess some sort of Patek, ALS or Vacheron perpetual calendar, I’d prefer VC or ALS for a “dressy” perpetual
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Old 11 August 2020, 06:34 AM   #6
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I’m not a dress watch guy so don’t have enough input to put one in each bucket.

For the lower price points, I’d honestly suggest a Datejust or Cartier Tank. Great bang for your buck while staying at a lower price point. If going in deeper, might as well go balls deep lol. I know these aren’t the traditional 3 handers but at the deep pockets hers some I love



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Old 11 August 2020, 06:57 AM   #7
kearez
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1. 0 - $5000 - Grand Seiko
2. 5000 - 10,000 - JLC Reverso/Ultra thin moon phase or small seconds/ Cartier Santos
3. 10,000 - 20,000 - Patek 5196/Vacheron Constantin Patrimony/ Moser
4. 20,000 - 30,000 - FP Journe Chronometre Blue
5. 30,000 - 50,000 - Patek 5230/Patek 3940/ Patek 5146
6. 50,000 - 75,000 - Unsure here.
7. 75,000 + - Patek 5170P
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Old 12 August 2020, 06:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kearez View Post
1. 0 - $5000 - Grand Seiko
2. 5000 - 10,000 - JLC Reverso/Ultra thin moon phase or small seconds/ Cartier Santos
3. 10,000 - 20,000 - Patek 5196/Vacheron Constantin Patrimony/ Moser
4. 20,000 - 30,000 - FP Journe Chronometre Blue
5. 30,000 - 50,000 - Patek 5230/Patek 3940/ Patek 5146
6. 50,000 - 75,000 - Unsure here.
7. 75,000 + - Patek 5170P

That’s a nice list.


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