What lesser-known brands have you seen that have surprisingly high build quality?

[MrNemo]

I have been looking for a diver watch that is not one of the big brands just to make life interesting. There are so many micro-brands now and they all look like they were made in the same exact Chinese factory and had an ETA tossed in. Same open back with the brand name poorly engraved, or lame Timex-quality engravings on the casebacks with some clipart stamp of a diver. Most of them look more or less like Submariner or PAM replicas with some German or Italian sounding name tacked on and, most notably, low production numbers. But I'm wondering if I'm being too cynical. Are there any watches you've seen in person that have made you think, "Wow... this is really amazing," especially for the price? I know Seiko isn't a lesser known brand, but Grand Seiko definitely is in the US. I recently had the pleasure of seeing a Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver in person and I was astounded by it. Maybe not the best example because those aren't exactly cheap, but it made me wonder, are there some other great watches out there that don't get the respect they deserve? That left a lasting impression on you? Perhaps without a stratospheric price tag?

[Naples09]

Stowa makes great watches.

[MrNemo]

Originally Posted by Naples09

Stowa makes great watches.

Thanks. Getting a very IWC / Nomos vibe from their current offerings.

[Andig]

MrNemo - I have a couple that I really like. One is an Ocean7 GMT that I have had for about 8 years. It's a titanium 45mm with an eta automatic movement and it has been flawless and keeps great time and was about $700 if I remember correctly. The second one is a bronze Stevral (previously called Benarus) 47mm Megalodon automatic Diver rated at 2500m. It is a beast of a dive watch and cost less than $1k. The quality is first class and the rotating bezel is almost as smooth as the one on my DSSD.

I think you have to do your research on some of these small internet only brands as some are pretty poor quality but I would not hesitate to buy from these two particular brands again.

Andy

[Naples09]

Originally Posted by MrNemo

Thanks. Getting a very IWC / Nomos vibe from their current offerings.

Solid German watchmaker running the company. The dive watches are not my taste but the others are nice. I have a Marine Original and it's definitely a quality watch for the money.

I also like the look of some of their Chronos.

Good luck.

[MrNemo]

Originally Posted by Andig

I think you have to do your research on some of these small internet only brands as some are pretty poor quality but I would not hesitate to buy from these two particular brands again.

Thanks. There are so many brands -___-

Helson Shark Diver looks like an interesting piece. Also seeing these Boschett watches that look decent that come with ETA or Miyotas. I will definitely check out the watches you mentioned.

Some somewhat lesser known brands I have owned are Marathon, NOMOS, Anonimo, and somewhat more known, Doxa and Sinn. I've never owned a Ball and they look very well-made (some of them are pretty quirky though).

[cervantes]

Nomos for the money. Muele Glasshute makes a nice dive watch. Sinn's tool watches struck me as very nicely crafted. Seems there is a german theme here. Well I'd also say that FP Journe's case, dial, and movement finishing is really wonderful, especially on it's time only pieces which match up against Patek, VC, and Lange.

[arcadelt]

+1 for Mühle Glashütte, but I like best their simple three handed + date hand 29er Zeigerdatum - the powder blue date ring is just gorgeous (sorry, not a diver)

[maxbaris]

JeanRichard! Amazing quality and built like a tank. Not a diver though.


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[yoast]

I recently picked this up for only 500 usd, build quality has passed my expectations.
It has a swiss ETA2824-2 and a nice domed sapphire crystal.
Most are sold out but they pop up on the forums now and then.

[TG3N]

Originally Posted by MrNemo

Thanks. Getting a very IWC / Nomos vibe from their current offerings.

Another vote for Stowa – quality watches, terrific value, and best-in-class customer service.

Stowa have been around since 1927, making original watches in that Bauhaus Nomos style since 1938, half a century before Nomos produced their (superb) Tangente, which admittedly does have the extra cachet of that in-house movement manufacture (but at twice the price than the similar Stowa Antea).

Since 1939, they've been making their Marine watches, and were one of the five original makers of Fleiger B-Uhr pilot’s watches (alongside IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, Laco & Wempe).

Yes, they just use bought-in ETA, Soprod etc. movements in the main, but at least they’re honest about it. Their cases are top-notch & hand-finished, and they properly blue-colour their hands via labour-intensive heat treatment (not just cheap colouring). To further individualise their pieces, they also offer engraving, hand-made rotors and solid silver or rhodium dials that bounce with character. Plus, their watches are made for you, to order, not just lifted off a shelf.

I agree with the poster above – Germany makes some of the best quality, value for money, technically forward-looking, and most interesting watches around. They put the Swiss to shame in many respects.

[benlee]

Moser. IMHO, they rival the best out of there in terms of finishing.

[RUK]

Not lesser known but Tudor is great value when it comes to divers. The pelagos is very impressive as is the blackbay

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[stockae92]

Ball watches. I think they are at least as good as Omega fit and finish.

[slcbbrown]

Originally Posted by maxbaris

JeanRichard! Amazing quality and built like a tank. Not a diver though.


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I second the JR suggestion, but I don't understand why the Aquascope wouldn't be classed as a Diver.

Another great brand to consider is GP. I'm a fan of the Sea Hawk II line, which pre-dated the angular styling of the newer GP sport models. Not cheap, new, but pretty good bargains on the used market. Excellent quality.

[HOHO]

Steinhart.

[56scooter]

Check out Helberg watches, I have a couple and they are very nice!

[bdex75]

Nomos Ahoi. Does not look like your typical diver but is rated for the water.

If going more for the diver look I have always found Archimedes to be a solid choice and they have a diver, in bronze if you wish. Ball is a solid choice but buy used or at a substantial discount if new from an AD. Eterna is a good route to go as well.


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[Jeffwb65]

Originally Posted by HOHO

Steinhart.

Seconded. I got a Steinhart Ocean 1 almost 10 years ago, and yes it's a Submariner "Homage". But it's 42mm, super solid fit and finish, and the "standard grade" ETA 2824-2 movement kept COSC grade accuracy as a daily wear watch from June of 2007 until I stopped wearing it this past December 2016. The only reason I stopped was my Son gave me a new Seiko SRP775 as a Christmas gift, and it's my NEW Go Anywhere Do Anything watch. The Steinhart has been retired to it's box, but if I wind it and set it, it will be ready to go.

[mps354]

Originally Posted by benlee

Moser. IMHO, they rival the best out of there in terms of finishing.

I checked out a few this weekend, great watches!

[cervantes]

Originally Posted by benlee

Moser. IMHO, they rival the best out of there in terms of finishing.

Really like their new steel watch related at Basel. Just a bit concerned about their longevity, especially as they haven't introduced any significant movement architecture in some time and seem to be concentrating a lot on marketing. But yes, lovely watch, especially the fume dials.

[csfischer20]

I got a Jeanrichard Aeroscope before Sowind shuttered them. They were made in the same factory as Girard-Perregaux. It's a really nice fit and finish, on a rubber strap, and I feel I got a lot for my $1500. The 6k retail seemed a little steep, but people were paying it for a while. It's not my favorite watch, but it was a father's day present, so I will never part with it. Besides, their value went in the tank when the news broke that they went under. It even has an in house movement. They can still be had on the grey market. I think they are nice.

[yessir69]

Another vote for Sinn.

[michaelodonnell123]

Belmoto puts out a nice watch: http://www.belmoto.gt/watches

[iim7v7im7]

Damasko

[ap1]

Carl bucherer

[hornchurch]

U Boat

[christianj]

Originally Posted by benlee

Moser. IMHO, they rival the best out of there in terms of finishing.

I was pretty much ready to pull the trigger on a Blue dialed Laurent Ferrier Galet Square but after looking at the blue dialed Moser's I have been hesitant to finalize a deal. If I could find a good deal on a preowned Moser I might go that route. Watches are gorgeous!