ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
30 March 2020, 01:27 PM | #1 |
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Band change out for Daytona Oysterflex. How to keep from scratching
A few months ago I bought a new Daytona Oysterflex white gold, and the AD scratched the lug when he tried fitting a different band. Then when he tried to polish it out, he made matters worse by rounding the lug off etc. I refused the watch and I got a new replacement a bit over a month later form the same AD. They took care of matters and were great about the whole deal.
So there has to be a secret! I was just wondering if anyone knows how this procedure is done right, without scratching the lugs. I mean Rolex does it everyday! Come on man! Either design a strap with access points to get to the pins or let the ADs in on the secret. It happens far too often. Maybe the spring bar pliers is what they use to compress the pin at both ends and pull the strap free without making scratches. Rather than just a tool to release one end at a time. Or taping the lugs up. I mean it's so small, that seems like it would be tough. Or maybe Rolex heats the strap slightly to get it to compress easy etc. I was thinking the spring bar plier tool would be the best tool for the job. But how to see with the tight rubber in the way to get the tool on the spring bars is the trick and without leaving big scratches. I think they have a tool or mini vise. They compress the rubber strap in it enough to be able to see the spring bars, then they use spring bar pliers possibly. I want to experiment, but not on my watch lol. Let's solve the mystery! |
30 March 2020, 01:40 PM | #2 |
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I'm not sure there is a good way for it. Here in AUS both the AD and RSC left marks on the lugs.
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30 March 2020, 01:52 PM | #3 |
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If one springbar can be compressed it's usually a case of compressing the other side whilst keeping the first side from popping back into the lughole. With zero Oysterflex experience I am confident I could do it without tearing up the lugs. Anyone doing so clearly has no experience with anything that doesn't have easy access slots.
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30 March 2020, 01:52 PM | #4 | |
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I may have to change out one strap on mine after thinking I had the good fit, and I am trying to figure it out if it comes to that! |
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30 March 2020, 01:56 PM | #5 | |
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30 March 2020, 02:04 PM | #6 |
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Judging by some of the threads in this forum rolex ADs give strap-swapping jobs to people that don't know how to do it.
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30 March 2020, 02:06 PM | #7 |
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Lots of straps have to be removed by sliding a blade between the lug and strap material. Safer than it sounds.
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30 March 2020, 02:08 PM | #8 |
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30 March 2020, 02:09 PM | #9 |
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30 March 2020, 02:22 PM | #10 |
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This is how it should be done...
1. the back/side/front of the lugs should be taped up 2. Turn over the watch and work from the back. If you squeeze one side of the oysterflex towards the other side, you can actually see the spring-bar. With a regular spring bar tool you just have to push in the spring bar towards the opposite side and then quickly twist it away from the lugs. Now the strap is off 3. To re-attach the new of band. Place the spring bar through the hole. And set it up so one side of the spring is resting in the lug hole. Now very carefully use the spring bar tool to push in the spring bar...but make sure you have the back lugs taped up. Also be sure to keep your finger on the front of the lugs to ensure the spring bar doesn’t miss the hole and move forward ...this is what causes the trouble! It just takes patience. I have done this myself a couple times now, because I don’t trust rsc The key is taping up your lugs and working from the back. Hope this helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
30 March 2020, 02:59 PM | #11 | |
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Well thanks Dave! Sounds like solid advice. The next time you do one you should make a video! Sounds like you have it down. Is there any specific tape you like to use? Or just any variety! Thanks. |
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30 March 2020, 04:16 PM | #12 | |
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I can’t see how this would work because even just removing a spring bar sometimes requires both pins to be compressed before the bar can be removed? And as previously posted by you: When you get the smaller oysterflex put on, please please ensure that you get a top skilled watchmaker to do it. Three have been many threads on here about sales associates, and even jr watchmakers at rsc RUINING white gold Daytona’s and 116655’s when doing a routine oysterflex strap change. And it’s not just light scratches on the back of the lugs...it’s literally big chunks taken out of the lugs, because the material is so soft!
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30 March 2020, 05:25 PM | #13 | |
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I wonder if a person could take a shoe lace, and cinch it around the rubber strap with a slip knot. Tighten it so both sides of the rubber come in just enough to get to the spring bars. Then tape off the lugs, and use the spring bar pliers to compress both sides equally and clear the lugs. Or use a non marring spring clamp like this to be the third hand to compress the rubber together. I pressed the rubber together tonight and could see the spring bars, but it takes some thumb pressure. So a 3rd hand is needed. The clamp in the photo is a mini one, but I like the shoelace idea best right now! Soft and more controllable. |
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26 October 2020, 09:12 PM | #14 | |
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Sorry, I totally missed your response months ago... To answer your first question re: the spring bar needing to be squeezed from both sides...from my experience using the little fork tool, if you push the spring bar down towards the direction of one lug, the spring bar on the other end should be able clear the lug cleanly. But you have to twist the oysterflex strap away very fast to avoid scratching. Putting the OF strap back on is where most of the damage happens i feel. If you don’t get the spring bar into the holes properly it jumps around and scratches the lugs up all around - sometimes taking chunks out. How do I know all this? When I was shopping around for a 116519 I can’t tell you how many of them had severe lug damage. And most of this damage was done by RSC...as many people have posted about as well. Which is why I started doing my own strap changes. But it’s definitely not for the faint of heart....and I don’t do excessive strap swaps if I don’t have to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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26 October 2020, 09:16 PM | #15 |
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Tape the lugs up before changing it. Put some masking tape or a few layers of painters tape on and it will be fine.
Most ADs or RSCs wont do that hence why there are scratches on the lugs. I've changed straps on pretty much all my watches and take the bracelet off for cleaning 100s of times. Not a single scratch if you tape them up. |
27 October 2020, 02:04 PM | #16 |
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I think we should clarify AD v Watchmaker at the AD. I buy from Finks in Charlotte, NC and while I wouldn’t let my SA change my strap, just this past week I had their watchmaker change my Oysterflex. He did it with no issues, and no scratches to the lugs. They are an authorized service center, I’m confident that is why the work was done well.
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27 October 2020, 02:13 PM | #17 |
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I've had the same issues with AD scratching up Oysterflex lugs. Tape can help but if spring bar is under tension coming out of the lug, tape isn't going to protect it since the force from the spring will just push the tape aside still scratching the soft gold.
I read there is a special tool that the factory uses, someone posted the official sizing guide a while back and it listed a part number for dealers to use when making strap changes. I've asked a couple of ADs but none of them use it. Like others have mentioned, the key is using a spring bar fork tool and compress the rubber at the same time giving you enough clearance to push the bar aside and remove one side of the spring bar without marring the lug. I've done it a couple of times and once you do it a few times, it's not too hard. |
27 October 2020, 04:01 PM | #18 |
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I use gaffers tape on the lugs. It's thick and sticks well. No residue either.
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27 October 2020, 04:39 PM | #19 |
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I heard bergeon tools is the best. Rolex used a hard stubborn spring bars that only the right tools can remove it without leaving any marks. Better keep it as it is bcoz even the AD people who barely knows the history and components of the watch will definitely scratch it. Even when resizing the watch bracelet after you paid the watch and then the next question is do you want me to resize the bracelet? It always gives me a chill that they might scratch my brand new watch.
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6 February 2021, 05:29 AM | #20 |
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Has anyone tried using the Bergeon 7825 tweezers while having the oysterflex strap clamped down to a certain extent with a particular tool (or shoelace knot as someone mentioned?) to access the spring bars cleanly and effectively?
I have recently acquired a 116519LN and it appears to be a rite of passge to have your watch dealer scratch a lug as a parting gift when they have to resize the oysterflex strap to your fitting. I unfortunately became a victim to this and would like to consider doing it myself going forward (the cushion fins on the oysterflex straps annoy me and are quite uncomfortable on the wrist so now consdering switching to Rubber B swimskin ballistic). After some hours of research online, I have come to the conclusion that it must be possible somehow to achieve this quite seemingly simple objective of swapping straps on an oysterflex rolex without making a single mark on your precious metal piece. I just need to figure out a way to access the spring bars with a tool/clamp of some sort that keeps the rubber compressed while carrying out the "art" of installing and uninstalling the case (while having the spring bars compressed with a Bergeon 7825). Any thoughts? If it wasn't for Rubber B, then I'd probably consider slicing those cushion fins with a scalpel or something - one of the corners always seems to land on my wrist or wrist bone in a very awkward way where I feel the weight of the gold digging into my skin. And yes, I do have the right sizing for my wrist (D at 6 and F at 12, 165mm wrist) and have tried all three iterations of the micro adjustment on the clasp as well and it still just does not feel right (either too tight or too loose, both uncomfotable). The fins also make the watch appear more bulbous then it needs to be which is another reason why I'm currently leaning towards Rubber B. I guess I have just been too spoiled with the smooth comfort of a jubilee bracelet on my DJ41. Is this generally how all oysterflex rolex models feel like? Do the fins get softer over time? (public consensus on TRF seems to be 50/50 on the oysterflex straps in terms of overall comfort/appearence) I realize this is the epitome of first world problems and I really do like my new silver panda but would like to hold the optionality of switching straps whenever I want without having to stress about scratching the watch or risk taking it to someone else. |
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