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19 June 2018, 04:29 AM | #1 |
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Real Name: Julian
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Went surfing for the first time in probably 10 years at least yesterday...
My son has wanted to try surfing for a while now so Saturday we pulled a couple boards out of my quiver in the garage and cleaned them up, did a bit of ding repair on the one he was going to use and waxed them up. Then yesterday morning (Father's Day) we packed them into the back of his 4Runner and headed to the beach. We live in north county San Diego near the coast so this is only a 15 minute drive. I used to surf Carlsbad breaks mainly so that is where we went. Man, the waves were reportedly 2-4' but the bigger set waves were more like 4-5' I was struggling just to get outside where the waves were breaking but we managed to do it. Tried paddling for a couple waves, then got caught inside and just stayed there for a while riding white water and fighting the breaking waves.
I was exhausted after an hour in the water. Plus, I'm too fat to fit into any of my old wet suits so I was wearing board shorts and a rash guard which made me kind of cold. Weather was overcast and cool and the water was 69 degrees. I was cold for about an hour or two after we got back home. Today, I'm sore from head to toe. My lower back, my shoulders, my upper back, my legs, even my feet muscles are sore. I'm going back out with my son next weekend so long as the waves aren't too big. My mission is to get a better fitting spring suit this week and recover. We had fun though. Looking forward to next weekend. I didn't bring my watch because I was worried it would ding my board if I hit it wrong. |
19 June 2018, 04:59 AM | #2 |
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That's really cool Julian
Sounds like you enjoyed Father's Day! Any pics of the action??? |
19 June 2018, 05:06 AM | #3 |
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19 June 2018, 06:02 AM | #4 |
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Julian, you and I last surfed about the same time. If I went out now they mine as well have a ceremony on the beach and bury me at sea.
P.S. I surfed Shores all through college |
19 June 2018, 11:11 AM | #5 |
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19 June 2018, 11:13 AM | #6 |
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19 June 2018, 11:16 AM | #7 |
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I’m jealous ... I always fancied myself to be a surfer. Sadly, I live in Mennonite country and I don’t swim
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19 June 2018, 12:20 PM | #8 |
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Ah I miss surfing, sorry to hear you got caught inside the white wash man! Good times out in the ocean, it stinks the ocean out there is always so chilly...miss being able to surf in the summer without a suit on.
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19 June 2018, 12:23 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Sounds great Julian! I don’t have the balls or the agility to surf. I think it’s cool as hell but watch from the shore with a beer
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19 June 2018, 02:35 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
I did buy a couple new leashes, some wax and a spring suit for my son. |
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19 June 2018, 02:42 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
I learned to surf in Hermosa Beach when I lived in that area in the mid 1990s. |
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19 June 2018, 10:33 PM | #12 |
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Very cool
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
19 June 2018, 10:54 PM | #13 |
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Well I'll tell you, surfing's not a sport, it's a way of life, no hobby. It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!" -- Spicoli
Congrats, and keep surfing as the muscles will build :)
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20 June 2018, 12:25 AM | #14 |
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Great way to spend Father's Day! Also a great way to get/stay in shape. Sounds like you are getting the surfing bug again.
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20 June 2018, 02:30 AM | #15 |
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I surf all the time, the trick is never to stop. I'm in Huntington Beach as we speak, pictures later
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20 June 2018, 03:48 AM | #16 |
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I used to surf 2-3 times a week minimum but having a young child kind of put a stop to that years ago. I kept my boards though so dusting them off and using them again is pretty cool. The board my son is using is older than he is... by about 10 years.
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20 June 2018, 03:24 PM | #17 |
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Sounds fun to pick up a past hobby even if it does tire the body a bit the first couple times back.
The beach was always a few hours away for me so even though I had a board, I only rode it a half dozen times. Enough to say I'd tried it, not enough to get good and love it. |
20 June 2018, 09:31 PM | #18 |
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I can't wait to try it for the first time! No doubt a great way for fathers day to be spent. Living in beautiful California has it's perks!
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21 June 2018, 04:13 AM | #19 |
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Heh, heh, heh, heh, heh....wipe-out!!!! The closest I get is paddle boarding!!!
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21 June 2018, 04:22 AM | #20 |
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I miss surfing, too cold and annoying up here.
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21 June 2018, 04:36 AM | #21 |
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Very cool bro!
I surfed all thru high school. I've been wanting to get back on a board for awhile now. Maybe this year in Hawaii.
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21 June 2018, 06:18 AM | #22 |
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