The Rolex Forums   The Rolex Watch

ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX


Go Back   Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum > Rolex & Tudor Watch Topics > Rolex WatchTech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 13 October 2021, 03:09 AM   #1
HiBoost
2021 Pledge Member
 
HiBoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Watchmakers - what is your favorite non-Rolex brand and why?

I always hear that JLC is the "watchmaker's watchmaker" but I'm curious for those of you who actually make your living as a watchmaker, what brand is your top pick and why? I'm hoping to get into some technical points here (which is why I posted in this subforum) as to what you've seen in the brand that intrigues you.

Thanks!
HiBoost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 October 2021, 04:15 AM   #2
poweredbyjae
2021 Pledge Member
 
poweredbyjae's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Real Name: Jay
Location: Bay Area, CA
Watch: 126660
Posts: 1,043
I had the fortune of meeting a couple watchmakers from the Horological Society of NY this past month. For what its worth, they were wearing a IWC Portugieser and vintage JLC respectively. (or at least I thought it was a JLC)
poweredbyjae is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 October 2021, 04:46 AM   #3
SearChart
TechXpert
 
SearChart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Real Name: Bas
Location: Europe
Watch: Rolesium
Posts: 22,306
Omega, especially the vintage stuff they made is incredibly good.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by GB-man View Post
Rolex uses rare elves to polish the platinum. They have a union deal and make like $90 per hour and get time and half on weekends.
SearChart is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 13 October 2021, 11:07 PM   #4
HiBoost
2021 Pledge Member
 
HiBoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Quote:
Originally Posted by SearChart View Post
Omega, especially the vintage stuff they made is incredibly good.
Do you still feel their modern work is high quality or is this one of those "they don't make them like they used to" situations?
HiBoost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 October 2021, 03:34 AM   #5
SearChart
TechXpert
 
SearChart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Real Name: Bas
Location: Europe
Watch: Rolesium
Posts: 22,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiBoost View Post
Do you still feel their modern work is high quality or is this one of those "they don't make them like they used to" situations?
Oh their modern work is good stuff, but the vintage steel used for pivots is something else. Nothing like pulling a 565 apart and having a 50+ year old rotor axle without wear, gears that are pristine, etc.

Same goes for vintage Rolex, Patek, Jaeger, they all made incredible movements back in the day, with burnished steel. Now the steel pivots are all electropolished steel, which is quick and cheap in manufacturing but not even in the same league when it comes to durability.

If modern movement technology was combined with some old school methods the movements would be truly incredible.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by GB-man View Post
Rolex uses rare elves to polish the platinum. They have a union deal and make like $90 per hour and get time and half on weekends.
SearChart is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 14 October 2021, 05:50 AM   #6
dannyp
"TRF" Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: usa
Posts: 3,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiBoost View Post
I always hear that JLC is the "watchmaker's watchmaker" but I'm curious for those of you who actually make your living as a watchmaker, what brand is your top pick and why? I'm hoping to get into some technical points here (which is why I posted in this subforum) as to what you've seen in the brand that intrigues you.

Thanks!
I always thought that JLC as "the watchmaker's watchmaker" was in reference to how many high-end houses sourced JLC movements for their pieces.

FWIW, the watchmaker at one of the ADs I was in recently had an amazingly beautiful vintage red Sub that he'd completely overhauled himself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poweredbyjae View Post
I had the fortune of meeting a couple watchmakers from the Horological Society of NY this past month. For what its worth, they were wearing a IWC Portugieser and vintage JLC respectively. (or at least I thought it was a JLC)
Please tell me that the Portugieser was the 7-day, not the Chrono...
dannyp is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 14 October 2021, 05:59 AM   #7
poweredbyjae
2021 Pledge Member
 
poweredbyjae's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Real Name: Jay
Location: Bay Area, CA
Watch: 126660
Posts: 1,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyp View Post
I always thought that JLC as "the watchmaker's watchmaker" was in reference to how many high-end houses sourced JLC movements for their pieces.

FWIW, the watchmaker at one of the ADs I was in recently had an amazingly beautiful vintage red Sub that he'd completely overhauled himself.



Please tell me that the Portugieser was the 7-day, not the Chrono...
Confirmed manual/hand wound 8-Day (or similar).
poweredbyjae is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 October 2021, 06:03 AM   #8
brandrea
2021 Rolex TTSub RoyalBlue Pledge Member
 
brandrea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Real Name: Brian (TBone)
Location: canada
Watch: es make me smile
Posts: 53,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by SearChart View Post
Oh their modern work is good stuff, but the vintage steel used for pivots is something else. Nothing like pulling a 565 apart and having a 50+ year old rotor axle without wear, gears that are pristine, etc.

Same goes for vintage Rolex, Patek, Jaeger, they all made incredible movements back in the day, with burnished steel. Now the steel pivots are all electropolished steel, which is quick and cheap in manufacturing but not even in the same league when it comes to durability.

If modern movement technology was combined with some old school methods the movements would be truly incredible.
Always interesting to hear your thoughts BAS
brandrea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 October 2021, 12:32 PM   #9
HiBoost
2021 Pledge Member
 
HiBoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandrea View Post
Always interesting to hear your thoughts BAS
+1, I found those comments very interesting. I had never seen mention of burnished steel vs plated before.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
HiBoost is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

WatchShopping.com

DavidSW Watches


*Banners Of The Month*
This space is provided to horological resources.





Copyright 2004-2021, The Rolex Forums. All Rights Reserved.

ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX

Rolex is a registered trademark of ROLEX USA. The Rolex Forums is not affiliated with ROLEX USA in any way.