Right Price for a 118238

[Chiboy]

Originally Posted by cglondon

Purchasing Day Dates is way out of my league. Massive congrats to you guys that can. Reading this thread, I had to comment just to say. If you are saving for a house (mortgage), the less finance you have on your name the better. It doesn’t matter if it’s interest free or not. Don’t jeopardise the banks getting cold feet, if they realise a few months before your mortgage application you decided to take out finance on an item sold via a watch company. Especially considering the state of the economy at the moment.

When you first walk into your new house, I guarantee you won’t be thinking about that DD.

Just my advice. Good luck.


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+1

I was going to say the same thing. You don’t want credit card debt when you’re applying for a mortgage (or really anytime, lol). Well, I get the allure of 0% interest, but still…

[Gym5050]

The good thing is that they retain their value. 22 for a naked one with an old clasp is actually the price they’re going for.

[MichelleP]

I am always looking at 118238's for sale. $22k is about what they are going for without B&P. I would want the solid clasp though. There is one for sale here but it is stick markers (my preference). Comes with box but no papers. Also short a link but you can always order one if needed. It doesn't specify the year or have pics of the clasp. Maybe check that one out and get more info.
Good luck in your search

[Daytonaman799]

A) NO credit. B) buy what you want….I’d just wait.

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by MichelleP

I am always looking at 118238's for sale. $22k is about what they are going for without B&P. I would want the solid clasp though. There is one for sale here but it is stick markers (my preference). Comes with box but no papers. Also short a link but you can always order one if needed. It doesn't specify the year or have pics of the clasp. Maybe check that one out and get more info.
Good luck in your search

Where do you see that?

Thanks

[logan5tx]

Originally Posted by Chiboy

I know everyone is commenting on the financing plan. I am just really surprised that a 36mm, twenty years old, without B&P, would be $22k! That's a lot!

It sounds like the OP is only choosing the 36 because it's less costly. The difference in MSRP between 36 and 40 sizes is 10%. Unless the 36 is really, really compelling price wise (which this one isn't), I'd wait for the 40 if that is the one OP really wants.

Yeah but the secondary market cost difference is way more, like starting at 25%


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[logan5tx]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

You guys make some excellent points and 22k is a lot for a watch that doesn't have box and papers and is 23 years old.

And 10% difference for MSRP yes, but for used one's the price difference is pretty substantial. We're talking 21-25k VS 38-40k

I CAN afford the 118238, however I do agree that for the older bracelet the price is a bit steep. The other thing is I'm saving for a house and although I can afford the watch, I'd obviously wouldn't want to clear too much of my savings which is why I I'd utilize the 0 percent interest credit line.

I think if you’re going to pay $22k for a 118238 then you may as well shell out the extra ~$3k to get a mid 2000’s with the new bracelet. The jump from that to the next generation is at least $10k so imo $25k for a mid 2000’s 118238 with the new bracelet and clasp is the sweet spot.


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[Uned]

Originally Posted by hutch300

Advice, don't buy it. These are wants not needs and credit for a watch is not advisable. Wait and eventually buy exactly what you want.

I totally agree with you, it’s not worth it.

[joli160]

Originally Posted by logan5tx

Just a note, it seems the early 118238’s don’t have the updated clasp, which is one of the main pro’s of that model imo. That price seems fair but average for a 2000 or 2001 model. The later models with the updated clasp seem to go for around $24-25k.


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This is the main concern

[Kenny G]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

Beautiful watch. I want 40, but realistically the 36 looks fine on me

Not sure why I can’t quote including your picture but based on that, the 36 is definitely your size with room to spare….a 40mm will look very oversized on you. To wear the DD40 you need a 6.75’’ wrist at the absolute minimum imo…and looks best at over 7”.

[jimcarver]

I think you posted previously, I will say the same thing, I wouldn't get the 36mm if you really want the 40mm.

But I agree with others, I wouldn't buy watch unless I had the cash to buy outright (to be honest I would want much more, It's a watch, it should make any significant dent on your savings in my opinion.

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by joli160

This is the main concern

Yeah, I see what you're saying. The updated clasps would be around 24-25k, which is a lot more than I had initially planned on spending.

To recap, I bought a GMT Master 2 back in 2014 for $6700. I sold it this past August for $11K. I then bought an all gold Breitling for 14k, and then ended up selling it for 14k a few months later.

My plan was to use 13-14k of that money to buy a 2 tone 41m DJ, but as I mentioned in other threads, it's really hard for me to look back at two tones watches after trying on my grail all gold Day-Date.

IF I did go ahead and went for the 118238, my plan would be to put that 14k down for the watch. Assuming it was 24k, I'd have a balance of 10k. If I were to use the interest free credit card for 21 months my monthly payment would be $476.

My justification for this (if I were to go ahead with it) is that that watch really isn't going to loose value. So, if I NEEDED to sell it (which hopefully won't be the case) I could always get all or most of my money back for it.

[jimcarver]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

Yeah, I see what you're saying. The updated clasps would be around 24-25k, which is a lot more than I had initially planned on spending.

To recap, I bought a GMT Master 2 back in 2014 for $6700. I sold it this past August for $11K. I then bought an all gold Breitling for 14k, and then ended up selling it for 14k a few months later.

My plan was to use 13-14k of that money to buy a 2 tone 41m DJ, but as I mentioned in other threads, it's really hard for me to look back at two tones watches after trying on my grail all gold Day-Date.

IF I did go ahead and went for the 118238, my plan would be to put that 14k down for the watch. Assuming it was 24k, I'd have a balance of 10k. If I were to use the interest free credit card for 21 months my monthly payment would be $476.

My justification for this (if I were to go ahead with it) is that that watch really isn't going to loose value. So, if I NEEDED to sell it (which hopefully won't be the case) I could always get all or most of my money back for it.

I like your excitement, but $476 monthly payments on a watch that you are putting $14k down on is insane if you are saving for a property.

I think you will be much prouder of yourself by sticking to what you can afford and progressing with a property purchase than you will be for deciding you can only settle for a gold watch, especially as you don't have the cash to buy it and it isn't even the watch you really want.

A grail is a grail for a reason, I would suggest buying it when you've earned it.

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by jimcarver

I like your excitement, but $476 monthly payments on a watch that you are putting $14k down on is insane if you are saving for a property.

I think you will be much prouder of yourself by sticking to what you can afford and progressing with a property purchase than you will be for deciding you can only settle for a gold watch, especially as you don't have the cash to buy it and it isn't even the watch you really want.

A grail is a grail for a reason, I would suggest buying it when you've earned it.

It is the watch I want, but I understand what you're saying.

[miamiclay]

Coupla things

- I do think the 36 is the right size - I have a 7.25” wrist, and the 40s look too big to me. (I.e., the lug-to-lug length is almost the same as my wrist width, so none of the bracelet shows from above. Some of this has more to do with the flat v. round shape of your wrist than the simple circumference.)

- I believe the heavier bracelets on DD36 began with the 6-digits in 2001, but the new clasp was some years later (E.g., my 2006 118239 has the heavier bracelet with the older hidden clasp.)

- I never wanna discourage any DD fan, and I get the logic (especially with the GMT profit), but if you’re saving for a house, I’d say sock the $ straight into the house fund. More down payment saves serious $ over the span of any mortgage, the whole US tax structure hugely subsidizes your home buying, and there will always be *plenty* of DDs available.

[envuks]

How you buy it is your call. But my rule of thumb is if I’m not sitting on the cash to buy a piece 4 or 5 times over, than I’m not buying it. It’s just not the right move. It’s just a watch


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[Hardtimes]

A couple of points. The picture of your wrist with the 36 to me looks like the perfect size. The 40 would be too big for you in my opinion. If you can finance anything at ZERO percent you would be a fool NOT to do it. As for the price, I would go for a later 118238 with the updated clasp for sure.

[Mathematoxic]

OP I think you should go to a shop that have both the 36mm and 40mm and try it. If i remember correctly, the 118238 has a different look and feel compared to the more modern day-dates(36mm : 128238 and 40mm : 228238)
Try it on your wrist and make sure it’s the watch you really want before buying. Don’t compromise because of the cheaper price tag as it will somehow leave you with some regrets in time to come.
Lastly it is better not to buy on credit, but nothing wrong with that as long as your are comfortable.
All the best

[MichelleP]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

Where do you see that?

Thanks

For sale section of the forum. lawrenceb is the seller. Just put in 118238 under search/post

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by Mathematoxic

OP I think you should go to a shop that have both the 36mm and 40mm and try it. If i remember correctly, the 118238 has a different look and feel compared to the more modern day-dates(36mm : 128238 and 40mm : 228238)
Try it on your wrist and make sure it’s the watch you really want before buying. Don’t compromise because of the cheaper price tag as it will somehow leave you with some regrets in time to come.
Lastly it is better not to buy on credit, but nothing wrong with that as long as your are comfortable.
All the best

Already did this this . 40 vs 36

[MichelleP]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

Already did this this . 40 vs 36

Both look great. I don't think the 36 is too small at all.

[Hardtimes]

This may ruffle feathers but to me the DD IS the 36mm. Just my opinion and I said again, it looks near perfect for your wrist

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by Hardtimes

This may ruffle feathers but to me the DD IS the 36mm. Just my opinion and I said again, it looks near perfect for your wrist

Thanks and

Ugh I know it’s so tough. Attached are more pics. I also look at it like this, I already put 14k all together for the watch I sold (4k is house/profit money). I’m 10k away from the 118238 (24k for a newest clap model) 10k over 21 months is less than 500 per month (I hope I’m not justifying too much here lol)

[faz]

if you are saving for a house, don't finance *anything*. Your monthly payment obligations will limit your mortgage amount.

[Hems]

Originally Posted by hutch300

Advice, don't buy it. These are wants not needs and credit for a watch is not advisable. Wait and eventually buy exactly what you want.

+1
Exactly.

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by Hardtimes

This may ruffle feathers but to me the DD IS the 36mm. Just my opinion and I said again, it looks near perfect for your wrist

Thank you

[JSCP]

36 is a nice size, used to have one from 2019 or so.
new bracelet would be nice. Regarding credit line is your decision really. But date dates are the best any size. YG, roman and white the best.

Wish you luck on decision.

[hutch300]

"If you can't buy it twice, you can't afford it." ~ Jay Z

[Gym5050]

Originally Posted by JSCP

36 is a nice size, used to have one from 2019 or so.
new bracelet would be nice. Regarding credit line is your decision really. But date dates are the best any size. YG, roman and white the best.

Wish you luck on decision.

I agree. 36 isn't bad on me.

[PB_nts!]

Originally Posted by Gym5050

I agree. 36 isn't bad on me.

for dj or dd, I think you are good with 36.
dj41 or dd40 never grow on me. I think those style watches should be worn as 36 for any wrist less than 7.5"

But for professional models like sub or gmt, it's a different story. 40 looks good on almost anyone, even my wife's 6" wrist can handle sub41.

I would say go with 36.
But it's just me.