Dial vs. Case

[whofeelitknowsit]

Okay another novice question - everyone always talks about the importance of the dial, but then people are also placing a premium on an unpolished case. So which is preferable on a vintage watch: original dial with polished case or unpolished case with service/refinished dial?

[droptopman]

Both...lol
The model and age of the watch would influence my decision. On a gilt dial and an "older" models I am more concerned about the dial. Actually as I am typing this I guess I look dial first in vintage models.
Many watches posted here have both excellent dial and case, but when you are searching for a specific model it is difficult to find one with the complete package.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by whofeelitknowsit

Okay another novice question - everyone always talks about the importance of the dial, but then people are also placing a premium on an unpolished case. So which is preferable on a vintage watch: original dial with polished case or unpolished case with service/refinished dial?

I always start with the dial. It needs to be original, clean, damage-free, and never refinished. A service dial is OK on certain watches, as long as the price reflects that. An unpolished case is also great to have, but super rare on vintage pieces, and the term is so over-used. Also, there's nothing wrong with a polished case, as long as it's well done and not too much.

So, to answer your question, I go with option A!

[whofeelitknowsit]

So, I've been looking at Ref 1675. Say I have one available with refinished hands and dial but original never buffed case and another available with original (very clean) dial but case that has been polished. Both are 1978 serial numbers. Is one considered more desirable than the other?

[whofeelitknowsit]

Originally Posted by swish77

I always start with the dial. It needs to be original, clean, damage-free, and never refinished. A service dial is OK on certain watches, as long as the price reflects that. An unpolished case is also great to have, but super rare on vintage pieces, and the term is so over-used. Also, there's nothing wrong with a polished case, as long as it's well done and not too much.

So, to answer your question, I go with option A!

That pretty much answers my question - thanks!

[Gina Marie]

if you are tying to build a superwatch then either is preferred. if you are going to wear the watch then the dial is key (if you are going to buy only one). I have bought watches for the dial and watches for the case and bezel.....generally turns out to be a hassle and a time suck. If you find an unmolested case and a great dial....pay the premium and save the time and hassle. Unpolished is an overused term....that few folks really understand. I would estimate that it takes handling a hundred watches before you can really see the difference between unpolished, refinished, and well polished.....that being written, i try really hard to limit my purchases to unpolished....that makes it easy to pass on 95% of what you see. However, when you find the unpolished version with a nice dial....you have to be ready to pounce....fast.

[16610v]

Dial is everything.
Once you wearing it, the dial is the part that everyone watching it. But not many can see whether your case is good or bad from your hand.

[theflywrist]

Originally Posted by swish77

I always start with the dial. It needs to be original, clean, damage-free, and never refinished. A service dial is OK on certain watches, as long as the price reflects that. An unpolished case is also great to have, but super rare on vintage pieces, and the term is so over-used. Also, there's nothing wrong with a polished case, as long as it's well done and not too much.

So, to answer your question, I go with option A!

Pretty much this.
I dont settle on either, but in terms of the case, I want/need something decent.
Need not be NOS condition or unpolished, but a very decent one that is not over polished.
From my very little experience in the vintage watch world, average/below average cases on nice dials are a dime a dozen, but quality examples are not.
I find that I truly appreciate an old watch that is in a quality you wouldn't expect it to be in.

[roh123]

Depending on watch I think you need to make different decisions. In a perfect world I'd say you want both great case and a great dial. For a less rare watch you could always find a good dial later so that means that you can focus on the case instead if you can't find both a great case and a great dial. For more rare watches finding the best possible dial lose is really hard or impossible. Then the focus need to be om the dial. For example with gilt watches the gloss of the dial is key and should never be compromized.

Another important aspect is also the type of watch. I wouldn't really mind a slightly polished case on models which have straight edges like a late sports watches, datejusts or daytonas. If the case is still fat I could live with it being polished if the job is done well. For older sportmodels which should have big bevels or distinctibe details an untouched case is more important as they can't be restored perfectly as simpler cases.

All and all you should always save up and buy as good as possible but depending on what you look for it could be needed to make choices. I think it's hard to say that one is more important than the other in general.

[sensui]

From my humble noob opinion (just started buying vintage and have 5 pieces started)....I think the dial is definitely the biggest factor. It's definitely all any normal person (and yourself when you look at your watch reading the time) will see. I don't mind as long as the case isn't extremely overpolished/lopsided lugs etc in some way or god forbid had corrosion/pitting take over like the plague.....the whole unpolished lore is very sketchy per obvious reasons with the technology available today to restore watch cases with laser welding. Of course, when you have both ducks lined up....you have to make the decision if you want to pony up because the big asking price would be justified.

[1675-David]

Great question and one that is not easily answered. I love a great case and can't suffer an overpoloshed watch. A few years ago I buy a really sweet 3 mill red sub with a lovely case but a later white dial. It took about 3 months to source a period correct red dial. So now I have a great white sub dial over and think "all I need is a case..." 4 years later I still haven't found even a soft, banged up 1680 case...
So the value is in the dial? Try sourcing a case!!!

[dpa94114]

Originally Posted by whofeelitknowsit

Okay another novice question - everyone always talks about the importance of the dial, but then people are also placing a premium on an unpolished case. So which is preferable on a vintage watch: original dial with polished case or unpolished case with service/refinished dial?

I would pose the question back to you - which do you notice first?

I am a dial guy. I'm not a fan of heavily polished, but I struggle to see the differences in some of the fat case vs skinny case examples.

[omitohud]

In rolexdom, the dial is no. 1. A case in point, the milsub. The dial, case, case back, hands n insert r all unique to that reference. If u can only choose one, Which of the above parts u put the most value?


I blame it on the autoconnect.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by whofeelitknowsit

Okay another novice question - everyone always talks about the importance of the dial, but then people are also placing a premium on an unpolished case. So which is preferable on a vintage watch: original dial with polished case or unpolished case with service/refinished dial?

It is not cut and dried.

Condition, overall, of the watch is the most important.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a refinished (polished) case if it was done properly. There is everything wrong with a refinished dial.

[springer]

I would find a watch with a decent case and dial. They are out there. As far as having refinished hands, that wouldn't stop me from a purchase - the tritium in these old hands are way past their usefulness and many have already been replaced in the past.

If you find a nice GMT 1675 that you can't live without, and the dial has issues, expect to pay upwards to $1,000 or more for a correct dial without issues. (Radial dials are over double to triple the price of the other GMT 1675 dials.)

Contrary to popular belief, there is no "I Have The Most Original Rolex" contest, so buy what you like and enjoy the watch.

[themaninblack]

I like a dial to be original, but older radium lume dials for example often show significant deterioration, i have no issue with that. So be it, it's just the honest effects of time and whatever chemical reactions are taking place.

A good honest case may be nice and sharp or somewhat beaten up depending on the life the watch has lead, again i have no problem with either, they just provide different aesthetics. Sometimes i might feel like wearing a watch that shows the signs of a tough life, other times I might want to wear something more dressy and pristine. Worn old jeans, neatly pressed trousers, both have a time and a place.

[exador]

Also depends if you're after a "Safe Queen" or a watch to actually wear (some folks forget the purpose of wristwatches). If the latter, surely dial is king.

[omitohud]

Originally Posted by exador

Also depends if you're after a "Safe Queen" or a watch to actually wear (some folks forget the purpose of wristwatches). If the latter, surely dial is king.

U meant the former, right?


I blame it on the autoconnect.

[whofeelitknowsit]

Follow-up question - is a service replacement dial a dealbreaker?

What would generally be more desirable - a clean original dial on a 1978 watch or an early service dial (also clean) on a 1968?

[Trurolexer]

1. Dial
2. Case

[swish77]

Originally Posted by whofeelitknowsit

Follow-up question - is a service replacement dial a dealbreaker?

What would generally be more desirable - a clean original dial on a 1978 watch or an early service dial (also clean) on a 1968?

Originality is always more important. Service dials are OK sometimes, depending on the watch and as long as the price is adjusted accordingly. But I'd much rather have the original dial.