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Old 1 October 2018, 07:40 AM   #1
imperio
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School me on quality leather straps

Last week I purchased a strap from WatchGecko for $20 shipped and it looks identical to a $100 one on the W&W shop or $150 on the Hodinkee online store (both natural leather, not shell cordovan). The strap I got has "Horween Leather" stamped on.

How does one distinguish good quality leather from lesser quality leather, in the absence of any stampings on the leather itself? What goes into a strap that makes, for example, a B&S strap so much more expensive than a strap from individual sellers here on TRF?

Outside of marketing and custom designs, what goes into a generic leather strap that would justify paying more for one over another?
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Old 6 October 2018, 06:12 AM   #2
tudorbaja27
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Craftsmanship. Being hand-made (i.e. actually by hand). I like the bulandandsons ones
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Old 6 October 2018, 06:26 AM   #3
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There is so much in the material for one. Leather comes in all sorts of grades which will affect the grain, how well it takes colour, suppleness and longevity.

The craftsmanship, how well the edges are finished, is the stitching even, has the leather been skimmed down at one edge to improve fit.

There are of course exotic leathers which also have a price impact. The best leather strap I've seen have come from Santoni who primarily make shoes. Each strap (alligator ones at least anyway) is hand 'painted' to give it a perfect effect.
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Old 6 October 2018, 06:29 AM   #4
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Old 6 October 2018, 07:12 AM   #5
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FWIW, I bought two of the Worn and Wound straps: a Model 1 in dark brown (Color 8, I think it's called?) and a Model 2 in a different dark brown. The Model 2 is soft right out of the box and has resisted the stretch marks that often come when a leather band is breaking in. The Model 1, while more expensive, is frustratingly stiff, difficult to get on the buckle (due to its non-tapered design), and the waxed edge started stripping off within a month, showing the nature color of the leather. Not impressed.

I'm pretty uninformed with leather, though, as I usually like NATO straps. I guess my thought has always been "you get what you pay for." But I think I proved myself wrong with that by the two W&W straps I bought.
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Old 6 October 2018, 01:30 PM   #6
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Best quality and longevity you can get is double alligator.
F.P. Journe and Montblanc are using them unlike most luxury houses like PP, Lange, Blancpain, etc. - they use calf skin for underside to lower cost. This also compromises the longevity.

Factually all leather straps are stiched with hand guided machine, just like every clothes - “hand made” is just a marketing term which the watch industry makes excessive use of.

It’s totally unimportant if the leather comes from Italy - Italian leather is nothing special nor better or worse than from anywhere else.

B&S is mostly good marketing, equal to other quality strap makers, just for a more premium price for customers who want premium prices.
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Old 6 October 2018, 04:15 PM   #7
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I have several brands of leather and I can tell a difference in some more then others. The quality of the leather and stitching are the easiest ways to tell quality. You can tell a hand stitch over a machine stitch. Sure, you pay more for someone to actually make your strap but that’s how it is, and I understand. While I don’t think some straps are worth the upgrade (worn & wound and Hodinkee are both overrated imo) some are. Bulang is good, Bas & Lokes is amazing and actually Colareb and Hirsch are good for the price
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Old 8 October 2018, 10:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by City74 View Post
I have several brands of leather and I can tell a difference in some more then others. The quality of the leather and stitching are the easiest ways to tell quality. You can tell a hand stitch over a machine stitch. Sure, you pay more for someone to actually make your strap but that’s how it is, and I understand. While I don’t think some straps are worth the upgrade (worn & wound and Hodinkee are both overrated imo) some are. Bulang is good, Bas & Lokes is amazing and actually Colareb and Hirsch are good for the price


Hmm, how do you tell a hand stitch from a machine stitch? And why is hand stitch seemingly preferred? I assume a machine would do the job better... (can get stitching lined up perfectly straight, can pierce through thicker leather more easily etc.)
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Old 9 October 2018, 01:08 AM   #9
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Go for cordovan straps. Unless you're spending > 300 USD, don't worry too much about the stitching, most reputable makers will be in the same space.

Checkout these guys:

https://www.camillefournet.com/
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Old 10 October 2018, 01:33 PM   #10
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Go for cordovan straps. Unless you're spending > 300 USD, don't worry too much about the stitching, most reputable makers will be in the same space.

Checkout these guys:

https://www.camillefournet.com/
2x pretty sure they make the straps for patek
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Old 10 October 2018, 01:36 PM   #11
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i'd check out Aaron Bespoke. His stuff looks amazing.
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Old 10 October 2018, 02:15 PM   #12
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Check out 922leather
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Old 11 October 2018, 02:17 PM   #13
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I'm a big fan of Hirsch. They make great quality stuff at reasonable prices.

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Old 17 October 2018, 06:23 AM   #14
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Cordovan for sure. It may not help you as Santoni makes straps for IWC, but Santoni is in a completely different league than any other leather strap I have ever seen. I have IWC Portugieser with black Santoni, I also have a Santoni shoes and they speak for themself.
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Old 24 October 2018, 08:50 AM   #15
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I've heard many great things about Dangerous9 straps made by John Glance, and have two hand-made Swiss ammo straps on order. I have a Hirsch waterproof alligator strap that I often use, and can recommend that brand.

I have a few cheaper leather straps (< $100USD) that I'll rotate in/out, and the bottom line IMO is there is a distinct difference between the cheaper commercially-made straps and the more expensive ones in terms of craftsmanship/detail and longevity.
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Old 17 April 2022, 02:04 PM   #16
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i've bought a strap from bulang and sons and can confirm quality and service is great
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Old 17 April 2022, 10:54 PM   #17
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If just cow leather, it's in the prep and have $50 and $300 straps and, frankly, not that much of a difference to justify the added costs if well-chosen. Thailand and other places make some impressive straps.

If you're talking very exotic leather types is where cost/quality can vary quite a bit, yet more $$$ is not ALWAYS better. Yes higher-end $300+ French or Swiss made strap means a minimum very good quality, or more attention to detail of matching the exotic leather strap's natural pattern... yet for $100-$150 you may find the same handcrafted quality and detail to matching things up (and dare we admit far more exotic leather types) from Thailand, Vietnam, etc.

jmho

Again, if it's 'just' cow leather i'd go with whatever seems really nice and $50 is usually fine. NOTE that i give ALL leathers (watch bands, car interiors, leather jackets, etc) a treatment of Leatherique. Vintage Rolls Royce restoration guys love the stuff too! It keeps the leather 'lubed' and soft-supple. Adds to the logitivy / life of the material. Again, jmho
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Old 17 April 2022, 11:00 PM   #18
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Old 18 April 2022, 07:33 AM   #19
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I used Delugs. Slow delivery though
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Old 20 April 2022, 11:41 PM   #20
Mendota
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I have bought from Martu Leather in the past and Andrea does a really nice job. She's in Central America and she hand makes everything and then includes a nice hand written card explaining what you received. Her prices are great.

Martuleather.com

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Old 21 April 2022, 12:26 AM   #21
AltiTudor
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i'd check out Aaron Bespoke. His stuff looks amazing.
His stuff IS amazing. I've purchased three straps, a belt, and a wallet from him — all top-notch. When you compare his prices/quality with what you'd get from other "bespoke" makers, I don't know how the others justify their pricing.

Aaron Bespoke/Combat Straps (same company) is fantastic.
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Old 21 April 2022, 01:21 AM   #22
enjoythemusic
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Quote:
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i'd check out Aaron Bespoke. His stuff looks amazing.
https://www.aaronbespoke.com/artists

Quote:
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I have bought from Martu Leather ....
https://www.martuleather.com

Gave a quick look at both, great straps! Bookmarked, love TRF and thx guys!
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