Best-finished/most interesting/versatile blue/black under $15k?

[eyeheartny]

• For a number of reasons I think I'm delaying (or at least putting on hold) my search for an AP 15400 in steel/blue, which was going to sit alongside a DJ41 in Rhodium as the 2nd piece in an upcoming big purchase I've been considering (up to $30k budgeted). Too ridiculous a market in the secondary scene and it'll be over a year before I can get one from a boutique, plus the questionable fit in terms of pulling my arm hair.
• I wear a SubC 114060 regularly along with two affordable watches that have sentimental value (from spouse and deceased parent). One is a dressier white dial on navy croc and the other is a thick diver with a blue bezel and dial, currently on a grey NATO.
• I lead a pretty casual lifestyle and do my best to dress well, which can range from jeans and a tee with boots to shorts and a sweatshirt with sneakers to chinos and Color 8 shell cordovan loafers with a white dress shirt. Just some context for clothing/style.
• Size/body wise, I have a 7" wrist and am 6'2", 215lbs, broad shoulders, athletically built. Bald. Beard. Glasses. Lift weights a lot.
• I'm really liking the rhodium DJ41 and think it'd get a lot of wear in my lifestyle, and I'm having a tough time coming up with other contenders to sit alongside it in my collection.
• What I liked about the 15400 was the high level of case finishing and the way the case and bracelet reflected a lot of light in very interesting ways.
• I LOVE the asymmetrical dial of the Grand Lange 1 but am leaning away from a fully precious metal case at this point due to durability/scratch-proneness.
• I'm considering one of the smaller Panerai Radiomirs (512) as a knockaround/versatile piece that can be dressed up on croc and dressed down on a NATO or Perlon, but I'm sorta in between sizes/style options (42s are a tiny bit small, 45s aren't available styling-wise for what I want)
• In my budget I could do a DJ41 + that PAM on the secondary market as well as a third piece at the same time. Or I could just do the DJ41 + something else, or if there was a truly perfect piece that would max out my budget, I'd be fine to buy just that as well.
• As the title says, I'm a sucker for great finishing (love Lange's case and movement work, thought the AP finishing was outstanding, etc).
• I also am realistic about not needing a true dress piece, despite loving some JLC models (MUT Moon in silver & MUT Small Seconds in blue).

So, knowing what I've already got, what I'm looking for, and what my budget is, what else should I consider? I'd be grateful for any help expanding my horizons within these constraints.

Many thanks!

[dmash]

The adventure continues huh?

Honestly, you kind of seem like a Rolex guy. You are keeping your Sub, the DJ was a hit with you upon first trying it on....what about a blue Sky D? For $30k you could do the DJ, SkyD & PAM.

Is by no means what I personally like, but like I said, it just kind of feels like it may be the ticket for you.

[DCheeta]

Maybe check out the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. The blue dial is amazing, as is the movement and case finishing, and you get the Geneva Seal to prove it. Also, they're very versatile as they come with a bracelet, leather and rubber straps.

I don't think you'll get too much of a discount, but you also won't have to sit on a waiting list for three years.

[GoingPlaces]

Originally Posted by dmash

The adventure continues huh?

Honestly, you kind of seem like a Rolex guy. You are keeping your Sub, the DJ was a hit with you upon first trying it on....what about a blue Sky D? For $30k you could do the DJ, SkyD & PAM.

Is by no means what I personally like, but like I said, it just kind of feels like it may be the ticket for you.

This.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by dmash

The adventure continues huh?

Honestly, you kind of seem like a Rolex guy. You are keeping your Sub, the DJ was a hit with you upon first trying it on....what about a blue Sky D? For $30k you could do the DJ, SkyD & PAM.

Is by no means what I personally like, but like I said, it just kind of feels like it may be the ticket for you.

Thanks. Interesting suggestion. I do love Rolex, that’s for sure. I’m trying to broaden my horizons, unsuccessfully so far!

The Skydweller is a neat piece but it’s apparently hard to find in stainless and they are trading well above MSRP. So it’d be a long wait for one. I may just get a PAM and the DJ and wait to see what else strikes my fancy.

[Watcheroo]

You can probably find a nice AP Diver or the older Royal Oak Offshore themes models in your budget. Great watches and sound like they will fit you fine.

Enjoy the hunt

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

• I lead a pretty casual lifestyle and do my best to dress well, which can range from jeans and a tee with boots to shorts and a sweatshirt with sneakers to chinos and Color 8 shell cordovan loafers with a white dress shirt. Just some context for clothing/style.
• Size/body wise, I have a 7" wrist and am 6'2", 215lbs, broad shoulders, athletically built. Bald. Beard. Glasses. Lift weights a lot.

Eye colour?
Favourite genre of music and films?
Any pets?
Do you like long walks on the beach?
GSOH?

If you’re going to use this site as a pseudo-dating joint, you have to provide potentially interested parties with all the pertinent information.

Oh, almost forgot… inside leg measurement?

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

…

Also, I recently posted this thread in the Rolex-specific subforum. It has some useful information about my build, style, etc that may be relevant for this discussion. For those that don’t click over, here are the highlights. Late 30s, athletic (6’2”, 215lb), shaved head, beard, 7.75-8” wrists. I’m debating between a few ways to go and am curious what you guys would recommend.

…

What happened to your wrist in the space of a fortnight?
Come on, tell the truth… you’re really only 5’ 3”, and 305 lbs, and the only thing remotely athletic is a crusty old jockstrap you still keep as a reminder of a bygone era?

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by PJ S

What happened to your wrist in the space of a fortnight?

I remeasured my wrist (had been about a year) after stuff was fitting differently than expected. I’ve changed my diet and workout routine in the last 6-8 months and apparently some of it has come out of my wrists.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by PJ S

Eye colour?
Favourite genre of music and films?
Any pets?
Do you like long walks on the beach?
GSOH?

If you’re going to use this site as a pseudo-dating joint, you have to provide potentially interested parties with all the pertinent information.

Oh, almost forgot… inside leg measurement?






What happened to your wrist in the space of a fortnight?
Come on, tell the truth… you’re really only 5’ 3”, and 305 lbs, and the only thing remotely athletic is a crusty old jockstrap you still keep as a reminder of a bygone era?

[lucevan le stelle]

Royal Oak seems like a solid suggestion. Don't over-Rolex, if you want pick another one up later. Concentrate on one piece instead of multiples.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by lucevan le stelle

Royal Oak seems like a solid suggestion. Don't over-Rolex, if you want pick another one up later. Concentrate on one piece instead of multiples.

That's the tough part. Other than the Grand Lange 1 in WG/black, nothing but the DJ41 has really spoken to me. I loved the look of the RO but the bracelet pulled my arm hair badly. There's also the issue that the blue color I'd be interested in isn't available for 18+ months unless I want to pay a huge premium. In terms of the Lange, I worry that the GL is too formal/delicate for casual wear and that a PM case will show a lot of scratches/scuffing due to the softer precious metal. What are your thoughts?

[Sjmoore11]

How about a Blancpain? Either the original Fifty Fathoms or a Bathyscaphe. I recently picked up a blue ceramic Bathyscaphe and am really loving it. In my opinion it’s super versatile: came on an awesome NATO, looks sharp on custom alligator, and just tonight I put it on an isofrane clone for summer water fun!

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by Sjmoore11

How about a Blancpain? Either the original Fifty Fathoms or a Bathyscaphe. I recently picked up a blue ceramic Bathyscaphe and am really loving it. In my opinion it’s super versatile: came on an awesome NATO, looks sharp on custom alligator, and just tonight I put it on an isofrane clone for summer water fun!

That looks fantastic. If it came in silver or white I’d be all over it. I saw the black one in Vegas last week. Only issue is that I’ve got a blue diver already so I don’t want to duplicate that piece. Appreciate the suggestion!

[asiparks]

^ the Bathyscaphe above does come in steel with a rather nice sunburst dark grey dial. It's also available on a bracelet, which would give you a couple more options strap wise.
Still on the Blancpain tip, if you like the way the 15400 blue looks, try the regular Fifty Fathoms with the blue flinque dial. The case is satin brushed which really makes the dial and the sapphire bezel pop. It's 45mm, but wears about the same size as an AP diver.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVJln-2cIdk&t=18s

here's my regular black version, my wrist is about 7/14...



a review of the black vs blue:

https://www.watchcollectinglifestyle...hed-references

$15K on the secondary market would easily bag you the 3 hand version, the chromo version or, if you want to be super fancy, the Quantiemme complet version.



https://monochrome-watches.com/the-c...tors-series-7/

there's also the new titanium version- brushed ti case and a sunburst blue dial:

( photo's by Shorty's Home )




I just played with one of these in HK and it's sublime

[Starwalker]

I think you should go for variety. If you are going to get a DJ and already have a sub, I don't think you need another rolex. I would agree with the above comments - a) blancpain is a great option. b) I would also recommend chopard, the finishing is excellent, some great deals on the secondary market and good discounts on new pieces. I like the both their LUC and Mille Miglia/Superfast collection. c) I would also recommend a Glashutte Panomatic Lunar in the grey dial option. d) the new JLC polaris line is very good too - its dressy and sport. I also think they have a blue dialed memovox too.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by asiparks;

$15K on the secondary market would easily bag you the 3 hand version, the chromo version or, if you want to be super fancy, the Quantiemme complet version.

I can go as high as $30k. The $15k was if I’m going to get the DJ41 and something else along with it. I’m considering putting the whole $30k in to a Grand Lange 1 in WG/Black but I’m not sold on precious metals for a case. I love the styling and feel on the wrist. Just went to see it again today. Stunning.

I’ll have to go take a look at some of the Blancpains. Not sure they’re right for me (already have two dive style watches and looking for variety) but I’ll give them a look.

[iceman1118]

Originally Posted by Sjmoore11

How about a Blancpain? Either the original Fifty Fathoms or a Bathyscaphe. I recently picked up a blue ceramic Bathyscaphe and am really loving it. In my opinion it’s super versatile: came on an awesome NATO, looks sharp on custom alligator, and just tonight I put it on an isofrane clone for summer water fun!

I recently handled this andwas very impressed. The legibility, ceramic case, really slick shade of blue, lots to consider. I am seriously considering picking one up. How do you like it so far?

[AEC]

I like the VC Overseas for something on a really cool bracelet, and I think an IWC reference 5007 Portugieser would be a cool piece to work well with the casually elegant taste you have.

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by PJ S

Eye colour?
Favourite genre of music and films?
Any pets?
Do you like long walks on the beach?
GSOH?

If you’re going to use this site as a pseudo-dating joint, you have to provide potentially interested parties with all the pertinent information.

Oh, almost forgot… inside leg measurement?






What happened to your wrist in the space of a fortnight?
Come on, tell the truth… you’re really only 5’ 3”, and 305 lbs, and the only thing remotely athletic is a crusty old jockstrap you still keep as a reminder of a bygone era?

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by Starwalker

I think you should go for variety. If you are going to get a DJ and already have a sub, I don't think you need another rolex. I would agree with the above comments - a) blancpain is a great option. b) I would also recommend chopard, the finishing is excellent, some great deals on the secondary market and good discounts on new pieces. I like the both their LUC and Mille Miglia/Superfast collection. c) I would also recommend a Glashutte Panomatic Lunar in the grey dial option. d) the new JLC polaris line is very good too - its dressy and sport. I also think they have a blue dialed memovox too.

Thanks. Agree variety is key here. The Glashutte and JLC were a little too thick for my taste right now-- I'd like something a little lower to the wrist.

I tried on a few Panerais again yesterday. Radiomir 1940 line. The 42mm looked a little "lost" on my wrist, but it was a white dial with a strap color I'd never wear, so it's hard to say if it would look better in black with a better strap color for me. The 45mm was more proportional but I didn't like the Automatic text on the dial (threw off the symmetry, non-matching font is no-go) and the larger size than I prefer + the thickness at the upper limit of my preference made it less appealing (12.5mm thickness, same as my SubC).

The more I think about it, something with a quick change strap system would be great. It's what makes the PAM appealing-- go from a black croc to something bolder or a NATO/Perlon in no time. I wish the case size/proportions were better for me.

Seems the search goes on. Frustrating!

[PJ S]

^
Some more options for you to consider, given your preference for a low profile design.

https://www.chrono24.com/chopard/luc...-id7319092.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/chopard/luc...-id5733705.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/chopard/luc...-id5599426.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/rogerdubuis...-id7653433.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/rogerdubuis...-id7739739.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/rogerdubuis...-id7036782.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/ger...-id7292455.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/oct...-id7158794.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/octo--id7847457.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/oct...-id7717692.htm

[Lordofrolex]

14500 would be my go too. A pam could always be added later.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by PJ S

^
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/ger...-id7292455.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/oct...-id7158794.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/octo--id7847457.htm
https://www.chrono24.com/bulgari/oct...-id7717692.htm

Thanks PJ. These Bulgari options are interesting. I'll have to figure out where I can go try them on. The Octo Finissimo is especially intriguing. Very distinctive looking. I will admit to knowing nothing about Bulgari's horological efforts but the design is certainly eye-catching and the thinness is intriguing.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by Lordofrolex

14500 would be my go too. A pam could always be added later.

The issue for me was the bracelet on the 15400 was a hair puller. It may have sorted out over time but I wasn't ready to part with $18k for something that wasn't comfortable. Absolutely gorgeous piece but also not available in blue anytime soon, which is a bummer as I much prefer that to the silver or black.

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

Thanks PJ. These Bulgari options are interesting. I'll have to figure out where I can go try them on. The Octo Finissimo is especially intriguing. Very distinctive looking. I will admit to knowing nothing about Bulgari's horological efforts but the design is certainly eye-catching and the thinness is intriguing.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=581635, and there’s a link to another forum within that, which may prove useful and interesting reading.

I/we know you’ve money burning a hole in your pocket, but there’s no race – take your time to explore the field, as it’s all too easy to latch onto something initially, only then to realise it was more the thrill of the chase that generated the excitement.
As the old adage goes… buy in haste, repent at leisure – so keep your powder dry.
The one that speaks to you the most will eventually make itself known; no point in trying to force the issue.

As has been linked and suggested previously, in other threads, you should also take a look at the H Moser & Cie Pioneer – https://www.chrono24.com/hmosercie/p...-id7714139.htm
Whilst not thin, the dome crystal is where a lot of the excess height is, which may not be an issue due to the fact it’s transparent, so for the most part, will be somewhat invisible – you’d still need to exercise wrist awareness.
I can only presume the reasoning is for an undistorted view at acute angles, as the hand stack doesn’t look overly tall.

http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.ph...Seconds-(Steel)

[LeChefre]

Curious why OP hasn’t responded to the VC Overseas suggestions? You and I have the same daily wearer/tastes and though it’s pricey the Overseas is a gorgeous piece. I have a 114060 and 36mm DJ and want something in the same vein for my next piece as you. I love the RO but the bracelet is a non starter due to the hair pulling.

The DJ41 w Rhodium dial is lovely. Cannot go wrong there. Good luck in your hunt.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by LeChefre

Curious why OP hasn’t responded to the VC Overseas suggestions? You and I have the same daily wearer/tastes and though it’s pricey the Overseas is a gorgeous piece. I have a 114060 and 36mm DJ and want something in the same vein for my next piece as you. I love the RO but the bracelet is a non starter due to the hair pulling.

The DJ41 w Rhodium dial is lovely. Cannot go wrong there. Good luck in your hunt.

Interesting that you had the same hair pulling experience with the RO! Haven’t found a lot of others who’ve reported it.

The Overseas wasn’t for me. Tried one on last week. It's beautifully made and nicely finished, and the micro-adjustment, quick change straps, etc are really great touches that respond well to real-world user needs for wearability. However, to my taste the design left a lot to be desired. I thought the piece overuses their cross logo in unattractive ways: the multiplied cross shape bezel design really didn’t work for me, and the cross elements in the bracelet were a bit much considering the cross is also in the bezel.

My current fascination is with H Moser & Cie. Their Pioneer Center Seconds comes in steel with a rich blue dial. I am trying to figure out a way to see one. The Endeavour Small Seconds on the kudu strap could also be a solid option, but it’s precious metal so I’m less excited about that.

[lucevan le stelle]

At this point pick up a DJ and hold off anything else for say, six months in order to decide with perhaps more perspective.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by lucevan le stelle

At this point pick up a DJ and hold off anything else for say, six months in order to decide with perhaps more perspective.

Yeah that’s what I’m leaning toward. Question is rhodium or blue. Tough call.

[jb335]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

Yeah that’s what I’m leaning toward. Question is rhodium or blue. Tough call.

I’d probably nudge you in the rhodium direction. The blue is gorgeous but it sounds like you may end up with another blue dial in the future and then the DJ blue may be redundant. Plus, I know you really like that rhodium a lot too, so I don’t think it would be settling.


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