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14 February 2015, 01:06 PM | #1 |
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Bnib vs Lnib
All in all, if you had the choice to go bnib or lnib is it worth the price differential? Currently considering this proposition and wanted the group to weigh in. In my my case the difference is $500. The lnib still has 21 months of warranty left.
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14 February 2015, 01:08 PM | #2 |
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I don't know if only a 500 buck difference would sway me, it's still a used watch and it's value is as a used watch.
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14 February 2015, 01:16 PM | #3 |
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True, but the moment the stickers come off, bam, it used!
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14 February 2015, 01:47 PM | #4 |
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14 February 2015, 01:48 PM | #5 |
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Depends on if you're going to wear it or not. Buying it for an investment to keep unworn for years down the road? BNIB. If you're going to wear it, then well, to me the $$ savings in a LNIB or equivalent is just fine...
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14 February 2015, 02:05 PM | #6 |
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I prefer my Rolex watches BNIB and from an AD.
I'm not so well off that $500 isn't a significant sum, but when it comes to buying a Rolex, it's not enough to make me compromise. If a watch is brand new, it's brand new. If a watch is like new, that doesn't mean an awful lot, unless you have intimate knowledge of that particular watch and its history. It's your money, though.
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14 February 2015, 02:11 PM | #7 |
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14 February 2015, 02:38 PM | #8 |
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Whether they are BNIB or LNIB, I would always look at the condition of the watch. Even if the stickers are on, it does not mean that it has not been worn and it does not mean that it's 100% scratch free or ding free. The problem is, stickers on sets are always being advertise as BNIB and it gives impression that they are 100% unworn. You never know especially if the set is from a grey dealer or a private seller.
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14 February 2015, 03:08 PM | #9 |
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I have a 18 Kt Gmt master, Polar explorer, Gmt Pepsi and TT Sub....all bought used with box and papers....couldn't be happier. I actually wear them......
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15 February 2015, 02:14 AM | #10 |
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Personally, on an expensive purchase, I would buy BNIB.
I would only buy LNIB if I know 100% for sure that it was from the original owner. Then I would definitely buy LNIB. I just do not like when a watch like a Rolex goes through too many hands. JMHO |
15 February 2015, 02:36 AM | #11 |
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Either way, BNIB or LNIB, I'm going to wear it and thus, sadly, incur depreciation...so I try to stick as close to the number it's going to resell for when buying.
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15 February 2015, 03:27 AM | #12 |
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I'd go BNIB without second thought.
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15 February 2015, 04:34 AM | #13 |
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Difference would have to be greater for me.
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15 February 2015, 08:20 AM | #14 |
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I'm a Bnib from a AD kinda guy
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15 February 2015, 09:26 AM | #15 |
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I prefer BNIB.
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15 February 2015, 09:30 AM | #16 |
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If your a flipper LNIB, if you are keeper BNIB.
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15 February 2015, 09:31 AM | #17 |
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BNIB. LNIB means used.
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15 February 2015, 09:32 AM | #18 |
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new ,,, not enough of a price difference
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15 February 2015, 09:48 AM | #19 |
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Thanks all for the reply's. Leaning toward bnib. Milgauss Z Blue.
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15 February 2015, 12:40 PM | #20 |
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BNIB for me, not worth the hassle if it's been refinished, case back opened up etc. Nothing like knowing its brand new!
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15 February 2015, 12:48 PM | #21 |
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BNIB. I wanna peel the stickers off it. I want my wrist to be the first and only the watch has been on. I want to be the one to put the first scratch on it, not someone else.
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15 February 2015, 12:59 PM | #22 |
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I think that if you are going to wear it and scratch it and use it I would save the $500 and go LNIB. Guess what, as soon as you peel the stickers and wear it, for resale purposes it is LNIB. I know that there are some that are funny about BNIB being the only way but when I bought my DSSD and my DJ they were in the case at the AD so the stickers were off already. I got 10% plus off so I can't complain.
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15 February 2015, 01:54 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
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15 February 2015, 05:01 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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15 February 2015, 05:11 PM | #25 |
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May have been said already, but if not here goes. To me it all comes down to a percentage, and I would guess it usually falls around 10%+. In other words if your $500 is coming off a $5000 (all in) watch, I would probably go for it. If $500 is coming off a $10,000 watch then I would say hell no. Buy new.
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15 February 2015, 05:17 PM | #26 |
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Lnib could always mean a watch that had dropped 5 feet onto a carpet without dings dents and scratches.
Would you want one? |
15 February 2015, 06:02 PM | #27 |
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LNIB is fine if there is a warranty of some kind if posted or if you can check it out thoroughly in person pre purchase. If you're going to wear them , they WILL get scratched. I'd rather pay less for LNIB and use the items.
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16 February 2015, 03:25 AM | #28 |
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LNIB for me if there's ever a chance of flipping it later. For me that is almost always a possibility so I let somebody else take the initial depreciation hit.
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16 February 2015, 04:59 AM | #29 |
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Every "LNIB" or mint, perfect, etc. watch I've purchased on the forums, whether from a well-known trusted seller or not, has had undisclosed flaws, either physical or functional. Every single one. Almost without exception, I've ended up returning or reselling them. I would have a really hard time bringing myself to buy anything short of BNIB-with-full-stickers from this point forward.
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16 February 2015, 06:29 AM | #30 |
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You should be able to talk a guy down in price for more than 500 off of retail. If not BNIB every time. The seller will be sitting on his watch for a while.
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