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Old 22 March 2016, 06:14 AM   #61
uscmatt99
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I love the shoe threads on TRF, especially the master shoe appreciation thread. Led by Dan (I assume unbeknownst to him) it got me turned onto finely crafted footwear. My absolute favorites are my Crockett and Jones double monks and chelsea boots, followed by my Church's brogues. I have a few pairs of Allen Edmonds that see less wear. My most worn shoes are a couple pairs of drivers from Ferragamo, they were like slippers and I can get away with them most days at work. John Lobb is on my radar for the next pair, just need to decide which style I want.
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Old 22 March 2016, 06:17 AM   #62
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Can't forget Crockett and Jones. Their cordovan and their boot, but mainly their boots are my favorite. Of course its the Lindrick and the Islay which are my favorite.
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Old 22 March 2016, 06:19 AM   #63
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I love the shoe threads on TRF, especially the master shoe appreciation thread. Led by Dan (I assume unbeknownst to him) it got me turned onto finely crafted footwear. My absolute favorites are my Crockett and Jones double monks and chelsea boots, followed by my Church's brogues. I have a few pairs of Allen Edmonds that see less wear. My most worn shoes are a couple pairs of drivers from Ferragamo, they were like slippers and I can get away with them most days at work. John Lobb is on my radar for the next pair, just need to decide which style I want.
Just stick with the traditional models when going John Lobb. Their new master designer sure has messed everything else up. You really can't go wrong when it comes to their prestige line.
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Old 22 March 2016, 06:27 AM   #64
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I love the shoe threads on TRF, especially the master shoe appreciation thread. Led by Dan (I assume unbeknownst to him) it got me turned onto finely crafted footwear. My absolute favorites are my Crockett and Jones double monks and chelsea boots, followed by my Church's brogues. I have a few pairs of Allen Edmonds that see less wear. My most worn shoes are a couple pairs of drivers from Ferragamo, they were like slippers and I can get away with them most days at work. John Lobb is on my radar for the next pair, just need to decide which style I want.
Also whether this will work or not for you but this is what I did In the beginning when I was trying a number of different brands. I tried to look at them all and I still do to find which models which shoemaker makes the model I like the most. Then I would select with fit in mind the best model I liked from their lineup. In my opinion John Lobb makes the best looking Black Captoe Oxford and the best looking monks.
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Old 22 March 2016, 06:31 AM   #65
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Ah there's always Carmina (Spain). They make some of the best looking Jump boots and they also do a real great job with their Cordovan.
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Old 22 March 2016, 06:34 AM   #66
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I love the shoe threads on TRF, especially the master shoe appreciation thread. Led by Dan (I assume unbeknownst to him) it got me turned onto finely crafted footwear. My absolute favorites are my Crockett and Jones double monks and chelsea boots, followed by my Church's brogues. I have a few pairs of Allen Edmonds that see less wear. My most worn shoes are a couple pairs of drivers from Ferragamo, they were like slippers and I can get away with them most days at work. John Lobb is on my radar for the next pair, just need to decide which style I want.
Almost forgot. John Lobb is also well known for their museum calf, that is if you get into that kind of thing.

Good Luck, and I can't wait to see which one or ones you choose.
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Old 22 March 2016, 08:51 AM   #67
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Attachment 723680
Alden Shell LWB

Right back at ya with some color 8's



I love them but they are so heavy to wear regularly


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Old 22 March 2016, 09:09 AM   #68
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C&J Marlows.
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Old 22 March 2016, 10:21 AM   #69
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They are heavy man are they sharp!
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Old 22 March 2016, 10:57 AM   #70
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Of course there are other brands and I don't think anyone has even mentioned Vass yet.
Agreed, Laslo Vass should have been mentioned long ago in this thread. But on that note, we can't forget Stafano Bemer or Paul Parkman.

Now I'll wait for you to dig a pair of each of those from your closet and really blow me away.
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Old 22 March 2016, 11:05 AM   #71
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Agreed, Laslo Vass should have been mentioned long ago in this thread. But on that note, we can't forget Stafano Bemer or Paul Parkman.

Now I'll wait for you to dig a pair of each of those from your closet and really blow me away.
My closets plural are only so big. I must admit though when thinking about it I think I've had at least one if not three pairs of shoes or boots on order at almost all times with the exception of a few months here and there for the last 3 or fours years. Of course some of these shoes took up to 10 months to get and some only three months. But it has been something I've spent a good amount of time on.
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Old 22 March 2016, 11:52 AM   #72
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Nice shoes Noah.....
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Old 22 March 2016, 12:55 PM   #73
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Nice shoes. Now I don't feel bad about my 4 "nice" shoes that I have


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Old 22 March 2016, 12:57 PM   #74
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I was very excited until I saw the "Dress Shoe" part. Love my sneakers though.
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Old 22 March 2016, 07:14 PM   #75
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Chaps

You should take a look at the 1880 range from Loakes.

These are underpriced when compared to other makes of the same quality.

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Old 22 March 2016, 07:36 PM   #76
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Chaps

You should take a look at the 1880 range from Loakes.

These are underpriced when compared to other makes of the same quality.

Regards

Mick
That is if your looking at something in that price range and what that will get you then yes I heard they are reasonable priced. However the same thing can be said for AE seconds and Meermin and they compare fairly well also.
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Old 22 March 2016, 08:49 PM   #77
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I can't find any of my pictures I have about 20 pairs of dress shoes almost all of them are Church's including boots, brown and white, black and white brogues etc..... the other nice pairs I have include Floris Van Bommell a dutch shoe maker.
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Old 22 March 2016, 09:03 PM   #78
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When I have to dress up, I wear Alden shell cordovan shoes. Their Color 8 is THE cordovan color to have, but they also make some beautiful other colors, too. My whiskey longwings and cigar chukkas get a disproportionate amount of wear in the rotation.
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Old 22 March 2016, 09:44 PM   #79
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I have about 20+ pairs of Allen Edmonds and a sprinkle of other brands in between. I tell myself I'll stop and don't need anymore, this year I've added two pairs of boots thus far.

Watches and shoes, what an addictive hobby!



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Old 23 March 2016, 12:15 AM   #80
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Almost forgot. John Lobb is also well known for their museum calf, that is if you get into that kind of thing.

Good Luck, and I can't wait to see which one or ones you choose.
Thanks so much for the advice! I don't own a black cap-toe oxford yet, and I'm a sucker for the classics. Time to dive into some research before I make the call, that's the fun part anyway. I'll be sure to post some pics when it happens. I wasn't aware of the "museum calf" terminology, but I've seen some examples and the look is unique and beautiful. Will let you know and again for all of your help.
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Old 23 March 2016, 01:18 AM   #81
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Thanks so much for the advice! I don't own a black cap-toe oxford yet, and I'm a sucker for the classics. Time to dive into some research before I make the call, that's the fun part anyway. I'll be sure to post some pics when it happens. I wasn't aware of the "museum calf" terminology, but I've seen some examples and the look is unique and beautiful. Will let you know and again for all of your help.
Do yourself a favor and checkout style forum and the classic men sub forum tons of info and threads for almost or a good portion of the better rtw shoe brands
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Old 23 March 2016, 01:33 AM   #82
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So real question. I really like shoes, but not the same way as some of you fellas and definitely not the same way I like (love) watches.

So when someone asks what separates an Audemars Piguet from a Rolex and a Rolex from a Hamilton and Hamilton from a Seiko, I often have decent replies.

Does it work the same way with shoes? There's a Cole Haan outlet near my house, and I've bought some incredible shoes in the past for under $200. What makes those so different compared to some of these multi thousand dollar shoes you folks have?

I also really like Frye Boots, recently bought a pair of American Made Keen snow boots, which are awesome! PIcked up a real nice pair of shoes off a random shop in Florence Italy.

OK Go!
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Old 23 March 2016, 01:45 AM   #83
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These days I have been wearing C&J benchgrade cap toe oxfords on weekdays... wish I could expand my collection but closet space in Hong Kong is a scarce commodity.

Long term, I'm considering branching out to Spanish, Italian and French brands.
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Old 23 March 2016, 01:57 AM   #84
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So real question. I really like shoes, but not the same way as some of you fellas and definitely not the same way I like (love) watches.

So when someone asks what separates an Audemars Piguet from a Rolex and a Rolex from a Hamilton and Hamilton from a Seiko, I often have decent replies.

Does it work the same way with shoes? There's a Cole Haan outlet near my house, and I've bought some incredible shoes in the past for under $200. What makes those so different compared to some of these multi thousand dollar shoes you folks have?

I also really like Frye Boots, recently bought a pair of American Made Keen snow boots, which are awesome! PIcked up a real nice pair of shoes off a random shop in Florence Italy.

OK Go!
Well for English shoes, I've probably forgotten more than I remember now but roughly -

It's the time, materials and processes that go into making them, i.e. a lot, the very best and very very many that are all extremely skilled intricate manual labour.

For quality shoes those three things have barely changed in the last 100 years.

Now imagine how mass produced shoes are made in China, I don't just mean cheap one's but say $100-200 shoes that are sold in decent department stores or shoe shops. You'll still get OK good looking shoes but in the same way that a Chinese fashion watch is Ok and good looking.

I was in the Trickers factory a little while ago with a mate picking up some from the factory shop and the whole place still looks like it did in Victorian times. If you've seen the film Kinky Boots the factory they used in that is Trickers (although the real Kinky Boots factory was WJ Brooks in a village a few miles away). Ditto all the other old shoe factories in Northamptonshire that are still in business (apart from Barkers who have a huge new modern premises although all the work inside is still the same as always, just better organised and Edward Green who have a more modern but smaller premises now), barely anything has changed how they make shoes. You're buying a 100+ year old tradition hand made to perfection with skills honed over generations. Sons and daughters still follow their parents into the industry.

Some of the makers do now however produce cheaper or diffusion lines that don't follow all the old processes, are machine made or use cheaper materials and often these are off-site or made abroad but they are usually clearly differentiated as such.
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Old 23 March 2016, 02:12 AM   #85
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Well for English shoes, I've probably forgotten more than I remember now but roughly -

It's the time, materials and processes that go into making them, i.e. a lot, the very best and very very many that are all extremely skilled intricate manual labour.

For quality shoes those three things have barely changed in the last 100 years.

Now imagine how mass produced shoes are made in China, I don't just mean cheap one's but say $100-200 shoes that are sold in decent department stores or shoe shops. You'll still get OK good looking shoes but in the same way that a Chinese fashion watch is Ok and good looking.

I was in the Trickers factory a little while ago with a mate picking up some from the factory shop and the whole place still looks like it did in Victorian times. If you've seen the film Kinky Boots the factory they used in that is Trickers (although the real Kinky Boots factory was WJ Brooks in a village a few miles away). Ditto all the other old shoe factories in Northamptonshire that are still in business (apart from Barkers who have a huge new modern premises although all the work inside is still the same as always, just better organised and Edward Green who have a more modern but smaller premises now), barely anything has changed how they make shoes. You're buying a 100+ year old tradition hand made to perfection with skills honed over generations. Sons and daughters still follow their parents into the industry.

Some of the makers do now however produce cheaper or diffusion lines that don't follow all the old processes, are machine made or use cheaper materials and often these are off-site or made abroad but they are usually clearly differentiated as such.
Pretty fascinating! Thanks for taking the time.

I'm in jeans and a sweatshirt almost every day of the week, otherwise I'd probably be ALL OVER this hobby!!!

So next question, are you SISs (Shoe Idiot Savants) the same way about shoes as watches?

For example: if this were a shoe forum and i signed up and started asking, "it rained yesterday, the ground is still damp, is it ok to wear my fancy shoes"? Would you guys all jump down my throat with "they're meant to be worn, just relax and enjoy your shoes!", etc.

I mean I know there is shoe restoration and all that, he same way there is watch servicing and refinishing, but do you guys baby your really valuable shoes? Obviously there's a difference between something that's worn 3 feet off the ground on your wrist, vs something that literally touches the ground almost the entire time it's being used.
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Old 23 March 2016, 02:32 AM   #86
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Pretty fascinating! Thanks for taking the time.

I'm in jeans and a sweatshirt almost every day of the week, otherwise I'd probably be ALL OVER this hobby!!!

So next question, are you SISs (Shoe Idiot Savants) the same way about shoes as watches?

For example: if this were a shoe forum and i signed up and started asking, "it rained yesterday, the ground is still damp, is it ok to wear my fancy shoes"? Would you guys all jump down my throat with "they're meant to be worn, just relax and enjoy your shoes!", etc.

I mean I know there is shoe restoration and all that, he same way there is watch servicing and refinishing, but do you guys baby your really valuable shoes? Obviously there's a difference between something that's worn 3 feet off the ground on your wrist, vs something that literally touches the ground almost the entire time it's being used.
Well there are rules to follow such as never wear the same shoes two days in a row. Most guys with multiple nice shoes will only wear them one day a week max. They need to rest and breathe in between wears, especially if they have gotten wet or damp. You always need to use shoe trees as well when not being worn to keep the shape true.

As for wearing in the wet it depends if your shoes have a rubber bottom layered outsole or not If it's raining or wet out I'll only wear shoes that do have a rubber layer outsole bottom. I don't mean rubber soled, just a thin layer on the bottom of the outsole stack. Good shoes with leather outsoles won't be instantly ruined by walking in the wet but they'll take longer to dry out after and if you do it often they will wear out and breakdown faster.

You can get them restored, or rebuilt back at the factory, usually about 2-3 times before the upper is worn too thin to be lasted properly onto the new sole again. I usually get through two new heals before having to have a full resole.

You do need to baby them somewhat, especially really soft leathers like calf or suede. When I was in my 20's I used to be able to get a lot of the very high end one's for silly cheap money and to think how many I ruined by wearing out clubbing and partying makes me cringe now! Harder wearing one's like Shell Cordovan, Rough or Scotch you can let have a harder life. Decent care with polishes, creams, brushes etc is needed too, it's an art in itself to learn how to polish correctly.

As I said in a previous post I don't bother with the real high end one's now as I just would not wear them and if I did and they got damaged it would annoy me too much.
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Old 23 March 2016, 03:19 AM   #87
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Well there are rules to follow such as never wear the same shoes two days in a row. Most guys with multiple nice shoes will only wear them one day a week max. They need to rest and breathe in between wears, especially if they have gotten wet or damp. You always need to use shoe trees as well when not being worn to keep the shape true.

As for wearing in the wet it depends if your shoes have a rubber bottom layered outsole or not If it's raining or wet out I'll only wear shoes that do have a rubber layer outsole bottom. I don't mean rubber soled, just a thin layer on the bottom of the outsole stack. Good shoes with leather outsoles won't be instantly ruined by walking in the wet but they'll take longer to dry out after and if you do it often they will wear out and breakdown faster.

You can get them restored, or rebuilt back at the factory, usually about 2-3 times before the upper is worn too thin to be lasted properly onto the new sole again. I usually get through two new heals before having to have a full resole.

You do need to baby them somewhat, especially really soft leathers like calf or suede. When I was in my 20's I used to be able to get a lot of the very high end one's for silly cheap money and to think how many I ruined by wearing out clubbing and partying makes me cringe now! Harder wearing one's like Shell Cordovan, Rough or Scotch you can let have a harder life. Decent care with polishes, creams, brushes etc is needed too, it's an art in itself to learn how to polish correctly.

As I said in a previous post I don't bother with the real high end one's now as I just would not wear them and if I did and they got damaged it would annoy me too much.
wow! thanks.

Ok maybe this wouldn't be the hobby for me. You won't like what you saw if i showed you my shoe closet.

This is all pretty fascinating though. Thanks again!
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Old 23 March 2016, 04:26 AM   #88
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Really loving Alden shell cordovan lately. Really want some cigar, whiskey or ravello cordovan. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1458671162.661576.jpg
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Old 23 March 2016, 05:21 AM   #89
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Really loving Alden shell cordovan lately. Really want some cigar, whiskey or ravello cordovan. Attachment 724075
Get cigar first, it's much more versatile. Whiskey is fun but harder to find things to wear it with. Also, black shell is unfairly ignored. Alden's black shell cap toe balmoral is possibly the ultimate suit shoe.

Cigar:


Whiskey:


Black:
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Old 23 March 2016, 05:39 AM   #90
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How can I get some exotic Alden's?
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