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21 October 2023, 10:23 PM | #1 |
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1680 Red replacement bracelet - what can RSC do?
Hi all - the original bracelet on my Mk 4 1680 red sub has been damaged, so I am looking to get a replacement.
What will happen if I bring the watch head to an RSC and request a replacement bracelet? Will they be able to sell me a 93150 bracelet? Very much appreciate feedback from those who know better/have been in the same position. Thanks! |
21 October 2023, 10:52 PM | #2 |
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Yes they will. Alternatively you could try to find a period or year correct 9135/0
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21 October 2023, 10:56 PM | #3 |
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I decided to take mine to an authorized dealer and had them replace my damaged bracelet with a genuine Rolex item, return my old one and kept the receipt. Later I sold my old one and recouped about 75% of the new bracelet purchase price. There is another approach to consider, send your damaged bracelet to be restored and see if that option might meet your needs.
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22 October 2023, 02:56 AM | #4 | |
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22 October 2023, 09:01 PM | #5 |
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I've had a couple of bracelets refurbished my Michael Young in Hong Kong and was very pleased with the results, so that might be an option. In passing I wear my 1680 on a 93150 and its feels much more secure than the 9315
https://www.classicwatchrepair.com/
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23 October 2023, 10:18 PM | #6 |
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Thank you all for your input!
Went to the Singapore RSC today - they said that for them to let me buy a new bracelet, they have to service the watch first. (Has anyone heard of this rule before?) Bracelet costs c. USD1300, service costs USD1160. I definitely did not want to do a service as this was serviced by RSC London back in 2015. I made it very clear that I am very apprehensive about servicing my red sub as I have heard horror stories of vintage parts being replaced by service parts, and I communicated my concern to the staff there. In the end, the only way they can guarantee that a part will not be replaced during service is by doing an 'assessment', so for now I have submitted it for that. Would love to hear what you guys think about this - on whether or not i should send it in for service for the sake of a new bracelet. Thanks! |
23 October 2023, 10:31 PM | #7 |
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Weird rule and totally illogical, sounds like a money grab. I would just buy a bracelet secondhand or have the original repaired. I would prefer to use the original anyway. Is it a 9315?
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23 October 2023, 11:32 PM | #8 |
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If yours was serviced in 2015, it could be getting close to another service after 8 years, or you could also wait another 2-5+ years, however long until you see erratic timekeeping or whatever.
I don't believe it's worth spending $2460 total for the service and the bracelet, just to get the bracelet. If you look around on TRF and other watch forums, the 93150 comes up fairly often for sale. Sometimes even a NOS/new one will appear. I remember about 10 years ago I was fortunate to find one stickered in the box from a trusted forum member and it was priced fairly. You could also check with some of the trusted vintage watchmakers as well. |
23 October 2023, 11:44 PM | #9 | |
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Yes, the original is a 9315 bracelet - but it's simply not fit for purpose right now, with a lot of stretch (it got into an accident - snagged on something). When i tried my friend's 1680 on a 93150, it was definitely much more comfortable and functional |
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23 October 2023, 11:47 PM | #10 | |
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And yes I thought about sourcing my own, but I've seen a fair share of aftermarket bracelets and I'm simply not confident enough to authenticate one myself, especially when I cant physically inspect it. Plus the last one that came on sale in TRF was back in Feb, and it was for USD 2000! |
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23 October 2023, 11:54 PM | #11 | |
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I have a red 1680 on a 9315, and a white 1680 on a 93150, and they are both good, but I prefer the folded link bracelets overall. Still, if you prefer a more modern bracelet on your vintage watch, there's nothing wrong with that.
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24 October 2023, 12:13 AM | #12 | |
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When I got my current 1680 nearly 10 years ago, I wore it several years and noticed that it was running really fast. I had no knowledge of the service history, so I decided to have LAWW do a full service and now I can feel comfortable knowing this and decide whenever I want to do this again (probably will be at least 10 years). As for buying 93150 bracelets on the forum marketplace, you're right that they may be expensive, though deals come along. If you decide to go the service route for yours at an RSC, just be really careful that they don't replace the important things like dial, hands, date wheel, bezel. |
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24 October 2023, 12:18 AM | #13 |
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I recently sent in an 89 Explorer to RSC, did the same as you and requested an assessment only and instructions not to do anything until they give me quotes. Mine is due for a service, but I told them no touching of the dial, hands, etc. Still debating getting it polished or not, but that’s a different matter… Anyway, while my bracelet has a bit of stretch it’s not so bad at all. Still, I was told I could buy a replacement if I wanted and keep the original, which I may do just to have as a backup as the price is reasonable for a genuine part that may be tougher to source down the road. Interestingly, RSC also told me they will outfit a watch with a Rolex NATO if they don’t have the original bracelet available anymore - has anyone ever received a Rolex NATO from service?
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24 October 2023, 08:39 PM | #14 |
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update: assesment came back, with the following parts marked for replacement, would love to hear your opinions on whether I should go ahead for the service:
1. Ring (steel) 2. Crown with gasket 704, (steel) 3. Crown tube 703 (steel) 4. Bridge (upper automatic bridge) Last service turns out was 2013, so more than 10 years ago. Should be noted that I think the current crown is no longer the 702, but is instead the 703. |
24 October 2023, 08:43 PM | #15 |
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Is the "Ring" The crystal retaining ring? If so, I am not sure anyone would be able to tell whether that was original to the watch or not. I'd take 1&4 (if they let you only do those, which I guess they may not) but I don't think I'd want a 704 crown and the tube swapped out, unless I could find earlier replacements. There are good ones out there, some new and blistered.
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24 October 2023, 09:16 PM | #16 |
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I'm also wondering what "ring" means. That's a pretty vague description. Could even be the rotating bezel ring.
Regarding the crown/tube, do you happen to know what crown is currently on the watch? It's hard to give an opinion without knowing. Many collectors like to have a period correct crown. And of course some people mock those collectors for that preference.
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24 October 2023, 11:34 PM | #17 |
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I bought a new 93150 bracelet from Tourneau (AD) a few months ago (before Rolex purchased the company...). All I did was show them my 1680 on a crappy fake bracelet, and they immediately ordered the part for me. Took abut 6 weeks to come in. It cost $1250 USD and came with a full 12 links, 580 endlinks, and new springbars.
Mine has a CP12 date code, no S for service. For reference, P/N on the packaging is B20-93150-20-3-E1 |
25 October 2023, 05:42 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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25 October 2023, 07:31 AM | #19 |
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Wanted to purchase a bezel insert for my 1675/3 at the RSC in BH (2019). The RSC would not sell me that without a service. I will mention the watch had not been serviced for 25 years. However, I had it serviced independently and went back to purchase a bezel insert and they were fine with that. I can only assume they tested the watch to see how it was running prior to approving the purchase.
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25 October 2023, 08:02 PM | #20 |
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Hi all - a further update:
The ring is confirmed to be the Bezel ring. I quote the below: "The ring is below the bezel which is rusty therefore the replacement is necessary. " The current crown on the watch is, I am pretty sure, the 703 - but they do insist on replacing it, and replacing it with a 704 as they don't have a 703 part. |
25 October 2023, 11:10 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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26 October 2023, 12:58 AM | #22 |
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Times may have changed, but in the past I would go to AD and show them my watch, and they would order me the part I needed. I've done this for endlinks and inserts, so not sure why they couldn't do it for a bracelet (if indeed the AD is still even able to order various parts).
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30 October 2023, 07:04 AM | #23 |
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I am also told Michael Young is the guy. I believe on another note he is one of the only guys that can restore SS / 18k rivet bracelets
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23 January 2024, 06:03 AM | #24 |
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Hi which end links are best for the 1680 and more modern 93150 bracelet, 580? I recently asked my local AD about ordering one of them and I feel like they recommended something different, but perhaps the sales person misspoke. Appreciate the advice in advance!
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23 January 2024, 07:08 AM | #25 |
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See #4 above - they sometimes suggest a later solid end link but a 93150/580 (edit excuse earlier typo) is still the best imho. At circa £1000-1200. 580 service end links are slightly different shape and stamping but a good fit - and I think a couple of hundred pounds or so.
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23 January 2024, 07:14 AM | #26 |
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Thanks for the response. I just spoke with my AD and placed an order for a new 93150. They said that the 592 and 580 were options, I opted with the 580 although he was saying they are basically the same exact thing just an older / newer version based on the year it was made.
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