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Old 15 March 2014, 02:11 AM   #1
Cru Jones
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Icon1 "Comparing In-House, Manually-Wound Dress Watches Under $20,000"

This Hodinkee article is worth a look:

http://www.hodinkee.com/features/thr...al-dress-watch

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Old 15 March 2014, 02:50 AM   #2
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Thanks for sharing..
for me the order would be
VC
Lange
Journe (3rd mostly because of the off center, large small second)
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Old 15 March 2014, 03:55 AM   #3
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That is a cool video, thanks for sharing
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Old 15 March 2014, 04:42 AM   #4
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The Journe for me is the perfect dress watch because it can double casually. Unfortunately it does scare me how they speak of it possibly being only serviced by Journe. Are Journes service fees insane like some of the other smaller independents? (Like Richard Mille)
That Journe movement is impeccable and IMHO beats the others out with its unique look and execution.
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Old 15 March 2014, 05:20 AM   #5
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The Journe for me is the perfect dress watch because it can double casually. Unfortunately it does scare me how they speak of it possibly being only serviced by Journe. Are Journes service fees insane like some of the other smaller independents? (Like Richard Mille)
That Journe movement is impeccable and IMHO beats the others out with its unique look and execution.
I would tend to agree with you, and purely from a horology standpoint they did a very good job of describing the Journe's place in the market and its unique design. That said as elegant and as completely unique as the Journe is, the VC was the stand out for me. I just prefer VC's aesthetic, the service issue is merely an added plus.

To take it a step further, as stunning as the Journe is and I do think it's stunning, a blue face and SS body is not really the dress combo I would be looking for personally. I don't really have the need to have multiple dress watches and if I were buying one right now I would prefer gold with a white face. More traditional, less European perhaps, though they are all European, the styling on the VC is more universal, at least to me.

The ALS was also a stunner and the most traditional dress watch of the three but ALS styling has never spoken to me, I just really think the VC is Marc's cup of tea...
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Old 15 March 2014, 05:51 AM   #6
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The movement in the Fp Journe is magnificent.
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Rolex uses rare elves to polish the platinum. They have a union deal and make like $90 per hour and get time and half on weekends.
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Old 15 March 2014, 06:31 AM   #7
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I would tend to agree with you, and purely from a horology standpoint they did a very good job of describing the Journe's place in the market and its unique design. That said as elegant and as completely unique as the Journe is, the VC was the stand out for me. I just prefer VC's aesthetic, the service issue is merely an added plus.

To take it a step further, as stunning as the Journe is and I do think it's stunning, a blue face and SS body is not really the dress combo I would be looking for personally. I don't really have the need to have multiple dress watches and if I were buying one right now I would prefer gold with a white face. More traditional, less European perhaps, though they are all European, the styling on the VC is more universal, at least to me.

The ALS was also a stunner and the most traditional dress watch of the three but ALS styling has never spoken to me, I just really think the VC is Marc's cup of tea...

Valid points on the VC being the classic dress watch. Conservative but stunning nonetheless. This particular Lange does nothing for me as well, just not my style and screams old guy watch. To each his own but I love the idea of that Journe in a blue business suit during the week and with jeans and a collared shirt come weekend.
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Old 15 March 2014, 07:21 AM   #8
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Thanks for sharing..
for me the order would be
VC
Lange
Journe (3rd mostly because of the off center, large small second)
Agree. Fun with the gold movement of the FPJ though.
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Old 15 March 2014, 07:39 AM   #9
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Thanks for the heads up. Love Hodinkee
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Old 15 March 2014, 07:40 AM   #10
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I'm really liking the journe as well, but also would be interested in hearing about service costs...
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Old 15 March 2014, 08:12 AM   #11
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For me, it's not Journe's service cost, it's whether there will be anyone to service the movement in 20/30 years....
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Old 15 March 2014, 09:05 AM   #12
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FPJ does not publish service costs so you've got to ask other owners. I know someone with a "basic" FPJ who reported a cost of $3500 for a regular service. However I've heard reports that it varies per person.
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Old 16 March 2014, 12:44 AM   #13
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FPJ does not publish service costs so you've got to ask other owners. I know someone with a "basic" FPJ who reported a cost of $3500 for a regular service. However I've heard reports that it varies per person.
That would make me think twice about the brand. If $3500 is the regular service cost, I don't want to know what it would cost if something acutually needed to be fixed and not just lubed and regulated..
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Old 16 March 2014, 03:30 AM   #14
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I'm trying to gather more price data points...I really love the chronometre bleu. Just sent a note to my AD, will let you know what they say
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Old 16 March 2014, 04:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
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FPJ does not publish service costs so you've got to ask other owners. I know someone with a "basic" FPJ who reported a cost of $3500 for a regular service. However I've heard reports that it varies per person.
If that is the cost of a routine service for the Tantalum Bleu. I might rather get myself a new FPJ TB!
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Old 16 March 2014, 07:05 AM   #16
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I voted Vacheron:

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Old 16 March 2014, 08:15 AM   #17
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I voted Vacheron:




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Old 16 March 2014, 12:31 PM   #18
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Any other suggestions of comparable pieces that could go up against the three presented. I'm actually considering the ALS and VC as potential next purchase. The Calatrava line is an obvious suggestion, but just doesn't excite me.
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Old 16 March 2014, 04:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Any other suggestions of comparable pieces that could go up against the three presented. I'm actually considering the ALS and VC as potential next purchase. The Calatrava line is an obvious suggestion, but just doesn't excite me.
The ALS 1815 is an obvious choice. Wears slightly more casual than the saxonia but I think that is a good thing. JLC MUT moon for half the money in SS is noteworthy.

edit: JLC is automatic so disregard according to terms
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Old 16 March 2014, 09:26 PM   #20
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The jlc master ultra thin jubilee in platinum - I believe this is around $20k as well
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Old 16 March 2014, 09:57 PM   #21
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The Lange for me, the FPJ font is over large for a dress watch.
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Old 16 March 2014, 11:10 PM   #22
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The jlc master ultra thin jubilee in platinum - I believe this is around $20k as well
I meant that this was another option to consider. I really like the jubilee, but Since I have 2 reversos, I'd pick the journe
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Old 17 March 2014, 01:20 AM   #23
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I'd put the ALS Saxonia thin in there and also a Calatrava. If you're spending $20k you can probably swing the difference without issue.
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Old 18 March 2014, 04:35 AM   #24
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First choice "Lange", just because I have an oversea VC.. Like to mix up the mix...
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Old 18 March 2014, 05:17 AM   #25
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I love this youtube video and watch it a few times. For me, my choice will be the VC. Such a classy watch with beautiful movement The FPJ has the nicest looking movement of the three and an interesting design but it looks more casual/sporty than dressy and the service issues mentioned in the article is a practical concern. The Lange is also nice but I think the dial design is kind of dull and I am not a fan of the Lange's 3/4 plate design that covers the movement.
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Old 18 March 2014, 07:16 AM   #26
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I voted Vacheron:

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Old 18 March 2014, 07:39 AM   #27
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Did u guys read what Voutilainen wrote about VC's 4400 movement?
http://www.thehourlounge.com/thread/...240_28240.html
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Old 18 March 2014, 08:17 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Did u guys read what Voutilainen wrote about VC's 4400 movement?
http://www.thehourlounge.com/thread/...240_28240.html


Thanks for the link.
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Old 19 March 2014, 08:50 PM   #29
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Platinum Moser Monard

Of those three I would favor the VC. But there are many other watches I would consider before those three.

For example, and I voted with my wallet on this one. (Just a few more $$s)





Re Service cost. This one I had serviced by Moser in Switzerland last year (back to me within 2 months) under $1200
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