GMT Wars Part Deux — Rolex Vs. Grand Seiko

[Maxy]

In a dramatic rematch, the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 takes on the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR


Final take

Just by taking fellow editor Mike’s experience, you begin to understand the power of the SBGJ237. As Mike found out, the watch wears significantly smaller than the 44.2mm might have you believe. It even made the cut on his best of 2020 list, despite Mike’s preference for smaller watches. And it wasn’t just the size that was surprising: Mike also took note that the SBGJ237 is a major step up in finishing quality in comparison to the GMT-Master II “Batman”. Add the Hi-Beat movement and the €7,000 list price, and this is a much better value proposition than the “Batman” — by a mile to be honest. I’m going to save you the argument of availability, which I know will be a prominent discussion amongst the readers below.


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[Sugarloaf]

Is it a rotating bezel for the Grand Seiko?

[Maxy]

Originally Posted by Sugarloaf

Is it a rotating bezel for the Grand Seiko?

Yes 24-hour rotating and fully luminous bezel!

[kieselguhr]

Wish the GS was a spring drive. Sadly, even if it were so I couldn’t wear it at 14.5mm thick. That’s even thicker than my Orange Monster

[Binky1]

Make that GS 12mm thick and I’m in. 14.5 no way. What a shame.

[Old Expat Beast]

Seiko has been making cool GMT watches since the 1960s (e.g., as worn by Jack Nicholson in The Passenger), so there's some heritage here, too, plus the second set of 24hr numbers gives an timezone extra reading, which is nice.

[1William]

Both are very cool watches and are desirable to me. I own the Rolex GMT BLNR and the BLRO. I have tried on the green dial version on the strap of the Grand Seiko GMT but my AD has only received one of the blue versions on the bracelet and it was sold before I had a chance to try it. I am waiting on another to arrive. For me it is not an either/or, as I see the watches as being very different and both being able to live in a collection without overlap. I will see when the GS arrives and if it works, I will buy it.

[Maxy]

Originally Posted by Binky1

Make that GS 12mm thick and I’m in. 14.5 no way. What a shame.

Originally Posted by kieselguhr

Wish the GS was a spring drive. Sadly, even if it were so I couldn’t wear it at 14.5mm thick. That’s even thicker than my Orange Monster

Coz it's GS, something needs to be pointed out. I don't see similar comments on Rolex.

Sky-dweller is 14.2mm, Tudor GMT is 15mm and SD43 is 15.2mm thick whereas GS is 14.4mm but it has sloped lugs and fits smaller wrists comfortably. If GS is thick and reason not to but, then other 3 watches should have same reasons and no sales. Either ways, Seiko/GS anesthetics are never about slim watches, all of their watches are thicker but yet comfortable on wrists.

[kieselguhr]

Originally Posted by Maxy

Coz it's GS, something needs to be pointed out. I don't see similar comments on Rolex.

Sky-dweller is 14.2mm, Tudor GMT is 15mm and SD43 is 15.2mm thick whereas GS is 14.4mm but it has sloped lugs and fits smaller wrists comfortably. If GS is thick and reason not to but, then other 3 watches should have same reasons and no sales. Either ways, Seiko/GS anesthetics are never about slim watches, all of their watches are thicker but yet comfortable on wrists.

Actually, many who purchase the SD43 sight unseen have complained about the unwieldy size, and relative discomfort of the watch in general, even so far as to move it on from their collections.

Potential buyers of the Tudor GMT are also dismayed at the size and heft of the watch and wishes for a BB58 sized GMT is a very common sentiment.

All these larger watches are fine watches but they simply overshoot my dimensional criteria for comfort. Wish I had larger wrists to accommodate them but I do not. Plain and simple.

[tom2517]

Rolex is a classic but that GS is definitely a looker.

[Sugarloaf]

Originally Posted by Maxy

Yes 24-hour rotating and fully luminous bezel!

Very nice watch! And a rotating bezel is an interesting feature

[Zoomerang]

How is the GS clasp and bracelet? None of the reviews I’ve seen mention if the bracelet has any sort of quick adjustments like easy link or glide lock.

[Golden Ellipse]

Originally Posted by Binky1

Make that GS 12mm thick and I’m in. 14.5 no way. What a shame.

12mm thick and 40mm in diameter

[Rollieo]

Originally Posted by Golden Ellipse

12mm thick and 40mm in diameter

Sbge257 is 40.5mm and is a beaut!

Agreed about it being thick. I have the SBGE257 and while it wears thin and the curved case side with zaratsu polishing visually makes the case really slim, it still doesn’t compare in thickness to the Rolex GMT. With that said, it has a lot the Rolex GMT doesn’t have. Spring Drive, amazing finishing (better than Rolex), and a different kind of heritage which I appreciate.

I did a review of my SBGE257 here and talk about the thickness with some new visuals. https://youtu.be/z5ylDeNOkfU

[Rollieo]

Originally Posted by kieselguhr

Actually, many who purchase the SD43 sight unseen have complained about the unwieldy size, and relative discomfort of the watch in general, even so far as to move it on from their collections.

Potential buyers of the Tudor GMT are also dismayed at the size and heft of the watch and wishes for a BB58 sized GMT is a very common sentiment.

All these larger watches are fine watches but they simply overshoot my dimensional criteria for comfort. Wish I had larger wrists to accommodate them but I do not. Plain and simple.

Agreed with this.

I really do think that if GS reduced their thickness by 2mm and had a bit more taper to their bracelet with a better clasp... my goodness would they kill it.

Still love my GS SBGE257

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by kieselguhr

Actually, many who purchase the SD43 sight unseen have complained about the unwieldy size, and relative discomfort of the watch in general, even so far as to move it on from their collections.

Potential buyers of the Tudor GMT are also dismayed at the size and heft of the watch and wishes for a BB58 sized GMT is a very common sentiment.

All these larger watches are fine watches but they simply overshoot my dimensional criteria for comfort. Wish I had larger wrists to accommodate them but I do not. Plain and simple.

Apples & oranges. One can't simply compare measurements. It's more subtle, IMHO.

The Tudor is slab-sided and simple (a tool watch, not a criticism), so it looks and wears bigger/thicker. The SD also is tall & straight, plus the bezel insert gives a big presence to the watch.

The sculpting of the GS case as well as the lugs, which are shorter and curved, give a much different feel visually and physically.

[Jack T]

Originally Posted by Maxy

Coz it's GS, something needs to be pointed out. I don't see similar comments on Rolex.

Sky-dweller is 14.2mm, Tudor GMT is 15mm and SD43 is 15.2mm thick whereas GS is 14.4mm but it has sloped lugs and fits smaller wrists comfortably. If GS is thick and reason not to but, then other 3 watches should have same reasons and no sales. Either ways, Seiko/GS anesthetics are never about slim watches, all of their watches are thicker but yet comfortable on wrists.

In the world of luxury goods, objective, practical and logical enhancements don’t always carry the day. Marketing, image, prestige and higher prices are often the determining factors for the less discerning buyers.

Grand Seiko unquestionably has many attributes that better the competition, Rolex in particular. So too does Omega. Unfortunately they have to plead their case to most potential buyers, while those in the know...know.